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  1. Well, the only problem with not bringing them in and not letting them thaw is that they're inside and slowly thawed completely over the past three days or so. On the first and second day there was still ice in the trays, third day it was all melted so i'm guessing the medium is pretty much thawed as well. I definately want to spray them down with a fungicide, that would probably be one of the best things for them. Just have to figure out if I should put them back out since it should stay above freezing for at least the week, or dig them up and check them out to see if it's even worth it. H
  2. Ok, since the horror of what seems like almost a full loss of just about every vft I own, I had brought them in from the freezing temps of down to -15c. For those who don't know, they were in my unheated garage doing well, then suddenly the temp dropped to around -6c for a week or so. Then we had about four days here of temps in the lower 10's. During that period of time, and i'm an idiot for not thinking about it, the vft's thawed and dried a bit...then the temps returned into the -6c range...and far lower for weeks. I brought them in to thaw since they really didn't look well at all, and
  3. What's the distance from the plant to the lamp?
  4. Vertigo

    Pygmy Humidity?

    Dews don't normally like being misted too often. That's probably the reason you have fungus right there. As was said a little earlier, with pygmies being so small, you just really have to worry about the humidity immediately surrounding the pygmies. And if you are on the tray system with them, it's always high humidity on the immediate surface.
  5. They do enjoy high humidity. But, I would think the humidity level goes hand in hand with the temp and light. (I know I didn't mention air petiolaris seem to thrive locked under glass in the sun sitting next to a container of water). What type of lighting and temps do you have it in? On the note of roots...I can't say anything about my paradoxa yet, but I have a falconeri growing in a one inch seedling cell with three inches easy of roots growing out of the bottom and sitting in a small puddle of water. Doesn't seem to mind at all.
  6. I triple it as anglica, unless it's a hybrid...but really looks like anglica.
  7. What would you guys consider the stickiest sundew? Or even, the Drosera with the most mucilage per surface area?
  8. Vertigo

    Schultz Take Root?

    Swords, Sounds really similar to the way I do it. I'll have to try skinning it, never thought of that. CP Addict, I would gladly try if I had the chance, or the cutting. I'm 99% positive i'd have some success as well. And honestly I was talking down about powder based rooting hormones, I thought that I had made that clear. Liquid based such as dip n' gro seems to help out a lot of people with many different plants, also allowing a more even coat, and no clumping on the stem/leaf. Seriously, i've had better luck using listerine than rooting hormone in anything that I choose to propaga
  9. Vertigo

    Schultz Take Root?

    I would honestly say that the species itself would determine this over all. With the powdered rooting hormones, it tends to be a bit on the alkaline side. I know with Dionaea using these powdered rooting hormones causes more harm then good. And to be completely honest with you, most Nepenthes cuttings that i've seen, or grown myself have done really well with out it.
  10. Wow, I feel like the odd one out yet again. I keep my D. paradoxa growing right next to a D. falconeri, in between a N. gracilis and N. mirabilis. The humidity is always above 70%. I have four 40w cool white tubes over it at the moment. I grew several of these plants from seed at the start of the season. They germinated and grew the entire summer under glass in full sun, at least 12hrs a day direct. The mix in my pots is equal parts peat:perlite. They do truly enjoy high light and heat, as long as the humidity is up there as well of course. I have never really kept them sitting in wa
  11. I gathered that much, I mean physiological.
  12. Hey all, Can anyone please tell me the difference between these forms of N. ampullaria? N. ampullaria (Brunei) N. ampullaria (Mersing Malaysia) N. ampullaria (Sarawak) N. ampullaria (Sibol Sumatra) N. ampullaria (Chein)
  13. Fernando, Thanks. :) Tamlin, Keeping my fingers crossed with this one. Matt, I received the packet labeled as such: D. kaiteurensis, from Andy Wilkinson.
  14. This plant is about two months old i'd say at this point. Maybe a little older. It was seed grown under 40w fluorescent tubes about a foot below.
  15. Hey all, I posted this in the pic post, and then figured I should have put it here. I grew this Drosera from seed, and am hoping to positively ID it in the future as D. kaiteurensis. Anyone have any opinions or ideas on whether or not this is showing any traits at this stage?