Daniel G

Believe me, i know that they can do nothing to me, apart from flutter in my face. I reckon i have an irational phobia of them, which, i may try to get over sometime, butprobably not yet, but, who know, i may start breeding em' ;)

Welcome to the CPUK forum!

Lovely! That veitchii looks really nice! I'm considering selling one of my Ventratas, which just seems to make leaves, and not pitchers... Tho's i have one which is fine on a windowsill??? Thanks for sharing!

Well, one of them came with the house were renting (Cos' the landlord is to lazy to do anything, even just to take his cat) and is on the last of it's 9 lives (Or be it 8 and a half) as it's to weak to even jump properly, plus, it won't even come into the house, so we need to leave foood for it outside. I doubt it'll last through this winter if it's at all like last year. So, are you happy now?

xD all this time on holiday and i didn't see any of this! Those are some nice moths (But i'm petrified of Moths too!)

Ok, i have 4 and a half cats (Don't ask) 1 Dog, a guinea pig and... my brother. Used to have way more.. life get's boring sometimes

Thanks for Adding that Mobile!

Sweet! Where do you grow that? Back Garden?

Oooh, very nice! Thanks for sharing Jim!

Thanks Noah, Jim, and Adrian!

INTRODUCTION Aldrovanda vesiculosa is a fully aquatic carnivorous plant (i guess you knew that) The plant is one of two Insectivorous plants that grow fully in water,the other being some aquatic Utricularia. All these plants have found a way to get their minerals from prey through their traps due to the need to do so,as the water is very low in minerals or has the wrong minerals the plants needs to grow.but they still use Photosynthesis by having chlorophyll in their cells,just like all other plants. Aldrovanda vesiculosa is found in Africa, Australia, Europe, Japan and India,but sadly it's now become extinct in the wilds of Japan,In Europe the plant is dying out due to high pollution. The plant grows in water floating just below the water surface, like normal water weeds it grows amongst other water plants e.g. reeds. This plant has no roots unlike most other water plants. In places were Winters are cold the plant goes dormant, by forming a tightly rolled bud. Which some Utricularia ( bladderworts) do the same. The plant grows to about six inches ( 15 cm ) long as one end grows the other dies,the plant has traps that look like Venus fly trap ( Dionaea muscipula ) .These trap move the same way too,there are about six to nine traps in a whorl around the stem, which grow at the end of a type of leaf which also has bristles, which allows them to survive out of water! When they are forced out of water, they abort forming traps, and their whorls collapse on top of each other forming a sheath around the center stem, and those bristles become loaded with tiny drops of dew every morning, which gets pulled into these hollow tubes (by capillary action) formed by the collapsed whorls, and stores enough moisture to sustain them an entire day out of free standing water The plant flowers in the summer time which is white in colour,this grows above the water level,as i said before the trap has a look of the Venus fly trap but the trap is only about 10th of inch across and is a translucent green in colour and looks bit like a clamshell,each side of the trap is lined with with a big number of teeth,inside the trap there are digestive glands,unlike all other Carnivorous plants it has not been found what lures the prey to the trap. The trap closes like the Venus Fly Trap with the teeth interlocking to stop the prey from getting out before the trap is fully closed,as the plant is under water the plant has a secretion which makes the trap water proof,this is done after it as forced the water out of the trap by squeezing the two lopes together,the plant is not that easy to grow in cultivation on a long term,though,when growing these plants you should keep the water free of Algae and have no tadpoles as both are enemies of the plant,authough it is helpful to keep water fleas in the water with the plant,to feed it. CARE Temperature Keep temperature relatively warm at 60F (16C) to 75F (24C) Under no circumstances let it freeze AT ALL! Enviroment As i have already stated,this is a fully aquatic plant and grows well in part rain water part pond water,with the bottom of you container lined with peat and gravel on top,you may also want to add other plants into the container,you may even go completely carnivorous with some aquatic utricularia! As for containers,try a ten gallon container,or something around the same size Light Give them as much light as you possibly can,they love light! The joys of growing them Aldrovanda are an amazing species of carnivorous plant,when grown properly they thrive And grow at amazing speeds and mutiply in large numbers,colonising whatever they grow in,soon from having a few turions you can have up to fifty growing,so,if you decide to grow them,give 'em the care they deserve Daniel, FTC Forum Super User

Introduction Epythitic utricularia are a species of utricularia not grown by many,but some produce the most amazing flowers you will ever see,size has no place when simple beauty comes into account! Their flowers can put orchids to shame! Care Ephiphytic species can be very difficult to grow.They like quite different media from the other species,but hopefully with this guide you can gain some knowledge on them,and hopefully,grow them! Soil Epiphytic Utricularia are usually grown in a very light,well drained soil mix.A typical mix would be one part each long fibered sphagnum,perlite,and pumice. Another common mix is one part each long fibered sphagnum,fine orchid bark,peat,and perlite.If you use live sphagnum,make sure it doesn't out-grow your plant Light Keep them on a bright windowsill with at least 6 hours of sunlight a day,but if you have the equipment,give them around 12 hours in the summer,and 10 in the winter Heat Many of these grow in cool cloud forests or comparable conditions,so try not to cook them.I would use temperatures in the range 16-27°C (60-80°F) Temperatures higher than that will make your plant suffer Water Always water these plants from above,and don't leave them sitting in water,unless they are slack-potted,otherwise it can be harmful Why grow them? Despite they're small size,and picky-ness,these plants are amazing to look at and to grow,just wat 'till they flower,when you see the flowers of the epiphytic species,no qualifications are needed,they are simply,beatifully,gorgeous.If they don't make you want to grow them,nothing will Daniel, FTC Forum Super User

Hello everyone. I was looking through the various care sheets available and noticed one hasn’t been submitted yet regarding Utricularia, so I thought I’d have a go at submitting one myself. All information written below has been taken from personal experience or has been part of the research I’ve done into this interesting plant. Introduction The Utricularia (or “bladderwort”) is the largest group of carnivorous plants with over 200 known varieties currently documented. They get their name from the way they trap their prey: their roots are packed out with tiny, microscopic “bladders” which activate when micro organisms (tiny creepy crawlies) brush against even tinier, more microscopic trigger hairs. This activation leads to the “door” of the bladder opening, creating a vacuum which then sucks in the Utricularia’s prey and ejects any water that may have entered; the “door” then closes and the trap resets. Many varieties of Utricularia regularly produce delicate flowers of varying sizes and colours. Most are very easy to grow and terrestrial varieties are quite happy when placed in any pot, even a tea cup. There are three main varieties of Utricularia: terrestrial (above ground), aquatic (found solely in water) and semi-aquatic (somewhere in-between). This care sheet relates to the care of terrestrial Utricularia. Basic Care Soil Like most carnivorous plants, Terrestrial Utricularia are perfect partners with a potting media made of peat moss, sphagnum and perlite. Other aeration materials such as granite sand works as well. Mine grow in a mixture of peat moss and granite sand at a ratio of 4:1. Light Terrestrial Utricularia are not as fussy when it comes to light as other carnivorous plants. I’d recommend treating their lighting conditions as you would a Dionaea Muscipula, but don’t worry if you find yourself unable to provide as much light. A bright, sunny windowsill will do nicely. Humidity One of the great things about Terrestrial Utricularia is that they have a relatively relaxed opinion on humidity. As long as humidity doesn’t dip below 40% they are quite content. Containers Although not recommended for most carnivorous plants, an undrained container is your Terrestrial Utricularia’s best friend. Even something as simple as a tea cup can be an ideal home for this plant – as long as you repot once they fill their container! Utricularia can have long root systems, so make sure while repotting you check how long the roots are before accidently ripping off part of the root system. I would like to add I’ve lost half the root system on one of my Utricularia (due to other reasons) but the plant is doing very well and has recovered splendidly. Still, be cautious. Water Like all carnivorous plants, pure water is a must. Distilled, deionized, demineralised, reverse osmosis or rain water are perfect for a Terrestrial Utricularia. Keep their soil relatively moist. Some species of Utricularia enjoy an occasional flooding. Recommended beginner’s plants I thought this would be a good section to add for those who wish to try Terrestrial Utricularia for the first time. You can have a look for the plants below at my list of carnivorous plant suppliers. Utricularia Sandersonii From South Africa, the Utricularia Sandersonii grows very vigorously. I have one of these and despite losing half its root system it is still thriving. They produce beautiful pale lilac flowers that look like bunnies. The flowers are usually only a few millimetres across, but are large enough to be seen and to be beautiful. They flower freely throughout the year and look wonderful in any room of the house. Grey, FTC Forum Moderator

Introduction Possibly the least appreciated of all carnivorous plants,since their cultivation needs are drastically different from terrestrial plants,and the fact that capture is rarely seen, despite the full view of the bladders, nonetheless, for the collector who must have every carnivorous plant he can obtain,these plants make great additions to the collection Care Aquariums As you can imagine the best home for any aquatic Utricularia is an aquarium. For many species, a ten-gallon at least is necessary authough some, because they can get quite large, need a larger aquarium than this, unless you take the time to prune heavily once a week. Enviroment A decent filter is needed. It keeps the water clean, and hampers the overdevelopment of algae, power filters are considered the best for aquaria, but rather anoyyingly they do pose a few problems for the Utricularia grower. Floating Utricularia will either get pushed into one corner of the tank, or get sucked into the intake of the filter Which is not good! Submerged Utricularia will also get sucked into the intake,this can be bad for the motor of the filter, and the plant. Box filters are a good choice where the fish load is extremely minimal. It is probably best to use two at the same time, on opposite sides of your tank. Substrate Sand is one of the best substrates for submerged species of Utricularia, but its use in an aquarium is to be cautioned. If fish or other large aquatic animals are present, their activities will continually disturb the sand, leaving the water permanently cloudy. The floating particles of sand will land on the plants and any decorations, leaving the aquarium in a horrible mess and hindering the growth of the plants. Aquarium gravel may be used, but avoid larger gravels. Submerged Utricularia are naturally buoyant,and will eventually float away from the substrate if it is too large. Ultimately, the best sized gravel consists of rocks about 1/4" in size on average. Either sand, gravel,or a bare bottomed tank is sufficient for floating species, obviously. Do not use peat moss in an aquarium, unless you have it contained in the filter. Many folks put the moss in a tied up stocking. Peat moss in an aquarium as a substrate is definetly not the best choice. Light Lighting should be medium to strong, depending on species. Many prefer strong lighting for good growth.Try and avoid overly strong lighting for floating species as algae will form too easily in their mats, and may overtake them. Heat Aquatic Utricularia love warmth! However for a variety of reasons such as algal and bacterial blooms at high temps, and dormancy, the best range would be from between 20-25°C. Below 18°C and the plants begin developing turions. I have read experiments with U. macrorhiza, and have found that temperature and not photoperiod is the key factor to turion production. Windowsill jars Windowsill jars are a very acceptable way to keep floating species (not submerged ones). Once the plants are established, the jars require minimal maintenance, and in fact can be left unattended for weeks at a time. It is the pre-establishment time that is critical. I have found that most jars do best if filled with a generous quantity of floating Utricularia. At the start algae will still occur, but the bladderwort will easily outcompete it if there is enough plant material in the jar.If you don't have a lot of floating Utricularia to start off with,it will require that you be vigilant,until there is enough plant matter to fill a jar 1/4 full, a complete change of water (and I recommend changing the jar as well) once a week is probably the best way to avoid a surplus of algae.The plants should also be rinsed under lukewarm tap water to dislodge dirt. Whatever the case, watch that a thick surface scum does not develop. This stops the gas exchange between the water and the air that is so critical to a proper mini ecosystem. If this happens, do a complete water change, rinse the plants, and do this as frequently as necessary until the problem stops. If only a thin scum or discoloration appears at the surface of the water, you may be best leaving it there for a time, watching it carefully, of course. I have noticed that, if the problem isn't too severe at the beginning, it often regulates itself eventually. Substrate Rinsed sand,gravel,and peat moss may be used as substrates,or nothing at all.If using peat moss,wet it completely first,and use only that which sinks to the bottom. Any floating debris must be removed.Take care not to knock the jar once the plants are introduced,or else the peat will swirl all about the jar,much of it landing on the plants. Light Keep the jar at a bright windowsill all year long.It is best not to change it's location during the colder months.Recovery from this disturbance can be slow and could threaten the system. The joys of growing them When properly cared for,aquatic Utricularia make interesting and often beautiful decorations for the aquarium,or an interesting conversation piece in the jar! Many tend to grow rather quickly,and can turn your aquarium into a veritable jungle.In any case,they are carnivorous plants,which in itself makes them a wonder to be admired,even if they are less than obvious about it Thanks to http://www.islandnet.com Daniel, FTC Forum Super User

Hello everyone, I’ve seen a variety of threads regarding Heliamphora flowers and pollen posted on the forums, but not a basic care sheet so I thought I’d submit one myself. Introduction Heliamphora are considered the most ancient of the carnivorous plant world, this is because they are believed to have not changed or evolved since the time of the dinosaurs; perhaps this is because they are so successful or perhaps it is because they are located in Guyana, atop sandstone, table topped mountains known to the local people as “tepuis”; here, six thousand to eight thousand feet above sea-level, caressed by clouds, they are in complete isolation and safety – for now. Guyana is one of the ever-decreasing number of untouched rainforests on the entire planet and is located in southern Venezuela, Brazil. It was only recently I watched in awe as a group of researches explored this vibrant, natural metropolis and I am still speechless from what was discovered there. If you wish to learn more about Guyana, have a look for a documentary series called “Lost Land of the Jaguar” and I hope once you’ve seen it you become as awe-inspired as I am. Heliamphora share a similar appearance to Sarracenia, however I find Heliamphora much more attractive. Some varieties are a pale, green shade whereas others stretch from a pastel yellow to a vibrant red. Each Heliamphora pitcher is topped with a beautiful, small bell-shaped nectar spoon. Basic Care Soil As with most carnivorous plants, Heliamphora are partial to a mixture of peat moss, perlite and perhaps some sphagnum to top it all off with. I look forward to learning what soil mixtures other Heliamphora growers use. Snapperhead51 likes using pure Sphagnum -- you can see the results of his stunning Heliamphora here! Light Living atop mountains and above the clouds, Heliamphora enjoy lots of bright, natural light. Give these beautiful plants as much as you can. Humidity Due to where they originate, Heliamphora prefer high humidity levels above 60%, with 90% being optimal. Climate Warm days and cool nights. Anywhere between 60-80degrees F during the day and 5-15 degrees F at night will keep them contented. No dormancy is required. Containers A regular plastic pot is fine for a Heliamphora. Make sure it has drainage holes. Keep the pot in a plastic tray to make watering easier if you wish. Water Rainwater, distilled, demineralized, deionzed or reverse osmosis water is a necessity for these plants. Due to the rainy conditions atop their original habitat, it’s best to always keep your Heliamphora supplied with fresh, pure water. Heliamphora are among my top favourite carnivorous plants – this is for many reasons. Not only do they look beyond stunning, but their home is an absolutely pristine environment where man has yet to reach. The sheer amount of knowledge left to be gained from Guyana astounds me and I feel that caring for a Heliamphora means I am a part of that mystery – and to me that is something truly magnificent and special. Grey, FTC Forum Moderator

The Cobra Lily : Darlingtonia californica Not actually a lily at all, but more closely related to Sarracenia. There is only one species in the genus. Originally discovered in 1841 by botanist J.D. Brackenridge, the plants are endemic to extreme Northern California and Southern Oregon USA. They are found growing primarily in mountains, commonly in sphagnum and peat bogs through which cool water is constantly seeping. Darlingtonia has a bad reputation amongst some growers (especially in warmer parts of Australia) as being temperamental and difficult to cultivate. Given the right conditions it will not only survive, but thrive. Above all else, the key to successful cultivation lies in keeping the roots cool. There are many ways to achieve this - from building a complex cooling box complete with fan to circulate moist cool air (Darlingtonia cooling box), using a pump and timer to regularly flush the pot with cool water, or the simplest method is to simply stand the pot in a saucer of water. I received my first Darlingtonia in 2008 – a stolon cutting from a grower in Tasmania - as well as a clump of seedlings, each seedling measuring barely 10mm across. I was a bit apprehensive at first, as I had heard that this could be a tricky plant to cultivate and I was not sure how the plants would react to the change in growing conditions between Hobart and Adelaide - Adelaide being much warmer. The literature that I had read led me to believe that if I even looked at this plant the wrong way during hot weather that it would promptly wither and die. Fortunately for me and other ACPS members who took home some of the many seedlings, this was not the case! My plant is potted in an 8” terracotta pot, which has been filled with a 50/50 mix of live long fibre sphagnum and perlite. The sphagnum acts as a wick to draw up water from the saucer, and the perlite assists with insulation against the heat, drainage and aeration, the latter two (drainage & aeration) are most important as they prevent the mix from going sour and also prevent the roots from rotting. I stand the pot permanently in a plastic saucer full of rainwater and water from the top twice daily to flush the compost through. The plant gets full sun in the greenhouse (30% shade in the Summer months) but the sides of the pot are protected from the direct sun. I chose to use a terracotta pot rather than a plastic pot as terracotta is porous and the movement of moisture through the side of the pot helps to create an evaporative cooling effect. It must be noted though that the terracotta pot does need an occasional scrub to remove the moss and algae which eventually builds up and impedes evaporation. This basic setup has been very successful, even through the extreme heat of last Summer and proves that Darlingtonia can be cultivated successfully even in our arid Australian climate. Propagation of Darlingtonia Darlingtonia can be propagated by division, stolon cuttings, tissue culture or seed. Division of mature clumps is best carried out in Winter when the plants are dormant, for best results, each should have its own root system. Likewise, stolon cuttings can be removed from the parent plant in late Winter / Early Spring but should have a developing plant visible at the end of the stolon. Division and stolon cuttings are the fastest way to obtain mature plants, but I have also had great success in raising Cobras from seed. I was fortunate enough to be sent some fresh seed from Oregon, USA in October of last year. Much of the seed was donated to the ACPS seedbank, but there was plenty left for me to experiment with. My method for germinating seed was as follows : Select an undrained container approx 4” deep with a lid - an ice cream container is ideal. Drill a ¼” drainage hole 2” up from the bottom of the container. Chop up finely, enough long fibre sphagnum to fill the container to within ½” on the top – I used a food processor to finely chop up the sphagnum much to my wife’s disgust. Level the sphagnum moss out and firm it down, scatter your fresh seed evenly across the surface and mist with a fungicide (not a copper based fungicide!), put the lid on, date and label the container, and leave in the fridge for 6 weeks cold stratification. Check periodically for signs of mould. After 6 weeks, remove the container from the fridge, remove the lid and mist the seeds daily – do not allow to dry out. At this stage enough water can be added to the container that it runs out of the drainage hole. Leave the container in a warm brightly lit place and germination should occur within 4 weeks. From experience, I have found that germination of seed which has not been cold stratified is sporadic and prolonged with some seeds taking several months to germinate and as always, best results are obtained when using fresh seed. Growing Cobras from seed is a slow but rewarding experience, it will take about 3 years for the plants to produce pitchers that are between 2 – 4 inches long with a 50% increase in size each year. Pitcher size increases each year to maximum height of approx 60cm in cultivation. In nature, pitchers can reach nearly twice this size. Fertiliser Darlingtonia seem to appreciate foliar feeding once or twice a month during the growing season. Orchid or epiphytic fertilier (30/30/10) or Seasol – both at 10% strength will boost growth and improve pitcher size. Happy Growing! Linton, FTC Forum Moderator References : The Savage Garden, P. D’Amato 1998 ISBN 0-89815-915-6 Insect Eaters, A. Slack 2006 ISBN 1-899296-30-1

Drosera (Sundew) Note: Many grower have different ways of care for Sundews Cultivation but this is the way I do it and I hope it give you an idea of care. -INTRODUCTION- Drosera also known as Sundew's are a species of carnivorous plants in which it's the largest with over 170 known species. An it's in the Droseraceae family which the Venus flytrap is in so there like cousin's.They capture , lure, and digest insect's on gland's that cover the leaf's surface (it's like little tentacles that wrap around the insect) and digest it to supplement it from the poor soil conditions. Sundew's use glandular tentacles that are tipped with sticky dew or "goo". it has two gland's one to attract an insect called that "stalked glands" and enzymes to digest them. when an insect land's on a leaf the Dew stick's them onto the leaf so they can't escape usually the insect dies of exhaustion or asphyxiation (suffocation) that the dew clog's then the plant Sucrets other enzymes that digest the insect and release the nutrients. sundew's are found anyway but Antarctica they do flower but all the flowers are perfect and have five petals on them.. usually the root's are weak they are just use mainly for absorbing water and keeping the plant anchored to he ground. like all plant's sundew's reproduce using there flowers although you can reproduce using leaf cuttings -BASIC DROSERA CARE- Over the year's of growing sundews i've notice the care is basically the same with all Carnivorous plants.. but some you have to take extra care of. Overall they require mostly the same needs.. an its the big 3 (1.Soil, 2. Sun, 3. Water) and down below is the big 3 Soil!!! The soil for sundew's have to have no source of nutrients in the soil.. use nutrient free soil.. the most widely use is "standard" which is 50% Peat an 50% Perlite mix. Some grower's make there own soil mix but i just use the standard.. remember not to use any kinda fertilizer NO MIRACLE GROW!!!! below i'll list some soil mixes that we here at Flytrapcare came up with. Soil Mixes Standard (1:peat, 1:Perlite) HB Mix (1:Peat, 1:Perlite and 1:Silica Sand) By: HackerBerry Steve's Standard Miix (50% sphagnum peat moss, 30% coarse silica sand, 20% perlite) By: Steve_D "easy mix" or "lazy man's mix" (100% peat moss) By: lozone31 SUN!!! Sundew require full sun that's (6 or more hour's of direct sunlight..) they need the sunlight of course to go through "photosynthesis" which the plant get's it's energy and they also need to take an extra step to make the sugar for the "Dew". But you can only use artificial light's during the winter when the suns light is lower or "dimmer" but use 40Watt fluorescent tubes this is too supplement the plant for light but when spring comes and day light hour's increses use natural sunlight but make sure to let the plant get use to sunlight.. Photosynthesis CO2 + 2 H2O + photons → (CH2O)n + H2O + O2) (carbon dioxide + water + light energy → carbohydrate + oxygen + water) NOTE: ONLY IF THE PLANT IS TROPICAL BUT IF IT'S NOT THEN IT SHOULD BE DORMANT AROUND WINTER Water!!! You all should know by now that tap water is bad! use only pure rain or if it don't rain in your area a lot like for me use Distilled or RO unit below 50ppm Sundew's are sensitive to hard water. Remember sundew's love water they could be in water an they'll love it so there root's are mainly worthless all they do is anchor the plant to the ground or "soil" and absorb water like crazy.. so keep the soil really moist don't ever let the soil dry out. if you let the soil dry out than your plant well be very very unhappy or heathy. -Type of Plants- -NORTH AMERICAN SUNDEW'S- As you can see above i listed the basic growing instruction's for mostly all Drosera's but what most people don't know is there are North American sundew's (D.filiformis) they require a Dormant period during the winter as like the venus flytrap.. there care is the same but what is different is there cold hardness they can tolerate temperature's that go below 10F in the winter they can tolerate freeze's but only for a short period if the temperature's stay below freezing for and extended period you have to protect the plant form frost burn.. usually by coving it with a black plastic but when temperature's reture to a little above freezing uncover them and let them resume there dormancy remember to watch out for fungi's or mold and use a Sulfer based fungicide and for the love of god grow them outside don't grow them in a terrarium if you live in North America or a climate like North America grow them outdoors! -TROPICAL SUNDEW'S- Tropical sundew's unlike North American sundew's don't go dormant they don't need a winter's rest they just keep growing all year long. The most common Tropical sundew is the Cape sundew which is really easy to grow and great for first time grower's.. the care is the same but the only thing you need to know is that don't let the plant get exposed to low temperature's for too long.. well some sundew's can stand low temperature's like around 55F but they shouldn't be in that kinda climate for too long. Some tropical sundew's don't live for very long the "pygmy sundew" can sometime's only life for 2 year's or 3.. they produce what is called "Gemmae" (i think that's how you spell it) they are tiny little reproductive bodys that form around winter if you want to continue to have the plant make sure you let them grow.. Gemmae aren't seed's there little plant's so just place them on moist soil and they should grow like wildfire! Most tropical sundew's don't need terrarium's but it's not required -SUB-TROPICAL SUNDEW'S- Sub-Tropical sundew's are sundew's that are from a tropic regein but go dormant but not my cold climate but by kinda like a dry season.Usually the plant experiences lower temperature's then normal also.. since some sundew's are subtropical you have to take extra care to make sure they get the right condition as they would when they go through this dormant cycle. usually by keeping the temperatures a little bit lower and keeping the soil a bit on the dryer side. Similar to Mexican Butterwarts. -Help With..- Drosera Adelae unlike most sundews D.Adelae requires Partial Sun instead of "full Sunlight". This plant also has some "difficult" time adapting to its new environment but once it does.. it will grow like crazy!!! -Common Problems- Coming soon! Allen, FTC Forum Super User hope this help's this will be updated regularly Soil mixes are own an Copyrighted by Hackerberry, Steve_D and lozone31 and cannot be reproduced without permission or consent of the creater Images provided by Google © 2009 FlyTrapCare.com © 2009 Allen C Last edited by allenc666 on Thu Sep 30, 2010 7:54 am, edited 43 times in total. Allen,

Andy, would it be ok for me to post all the Care sheets from the FTC forums onto here? There must be about 10, maybe more.

Well, i'm sure you would like to see my plants (What do you mean "No"?) Here goes! Sarracenia And... That's it Of course it isn't, here's some more! Nepenthes Cephalotus Misc Close Ups AKA Good stuff Enjoy!

I've never put Dews through dormancy (Dreading this winter. Ulp) But, i have had on D. capensis, which, four months wouldn't do a thing, i was considering throwing it away, as it wasn't too valuable, but, a few weeks agao, as if it read my thoughts, it grew new leaves, in hordes! Now, it's definetly a keeper!

Wow, that's great! And very, very black! Thanks for sharing!

Beautiful plants! Especially the Cephalotus, that typical looks ready to dive out the pot! Thanks for sharing!

Wow! Thanks for sharing!

Nope I'll let Ada tell ya'