Jump to content

snapperhead51

Full Members
  • Posts

    438
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    28

Everything posted by snapperhead51

  1. I do many field trips to as many places as I can ,here is a few shots from tubers in Adelaide hills area in South Australia A mix or D.whittakeri and D.preafoila just a small group typical area where tubers are found D.praefoilia great colour of D.whittakeri D.auriculata D.macrantha ssp.planchonii some locals keeping a eye on me a group in flower, with heavy Jasmin scent in the air can be many different colours with D.whittakeri all close together
  2. One of my larger lowii 's has been producing very large uppers for quite some time now, , it decided to throw out this weird shape pitcher , while its flowering , lucky it is a female plant as well . these are older photos ,as the flowers are now all pollinated and ripening . the pitchers produce good amounts of exudate as well .
  3. Here is a tub of CMB ceph seedlings , about 300 + seed were sown, all were sown in early spring last year , the seed I sent my friend Dimi the previous year were a lot I received from the season before , had good germination as well , this lot is from my plants,a lot of the seedling are hidden under the faster growing sphag .
  4. After seeing the Coal mine beach site several year back , want to make a large ceph wall , but never got round to it , so instead made a few smaller ones . Here is another I did with a load of ex-vitro cephs , not so exciting but worked well , need re-doing now .
  5. Richard please do try the rosette tubers, there more colorful and verity is more varied than the tall's , do not think you will be disappointed at all , you can grow tuber outside as well in full sun if the temps are below 15 c , being a winter plants here , some climate with snow in winter will need inside growing , or G/H ,but may have summer temps that dont go over 15c and they will love that john
  6. For me its what you like , climbing , semi erect or rosette tuber plants, all are great , but some may appeal to your growing likes more than others, I like the rosette type more my self. so may be see what u like or preferences are and that can narrow it down more possibly. but for absolute ease or growing , D.auricualta or D.peltata, D.macrantha , D.whattakei , would be perhaps the best for beginners, some others can be a bit fickle at times john
  7. thanks people, the tubers here are are easy as they in there natural climate ,so its very basic and they grow in just about any media , some do like it in specif mix though . Veek. I do grow many in smaller pots, ( if you use smaller pot just make sure there deep ones ) , not seen in these photo's but can tell you they like large pots here, the large tubers push them self's down a long way , its not uncommon to find a 5 year old tuber at the base of a 240 mm deep pot , after a few growing seasons , , because at that size the pot is very heavy with loads of sand in the mix,so dont want a much bigger pot , just to heavy for me . , I just put them 1/4 to 1/2 way down in the pot again after re-potting . the climbing tubers go deep the rosette tuber do not go as deep but like more room . john
  8. f_s In the wild the cephs die back in winter, some more then other depending on there location, , as all ways there well be variation , some were completely died back where others were some what reduced in size in the same location. In colder climates and exposed to the weather , it would be expected that the plant /plants will die back naturally , I grow mine in my G/H and the natural die back is reduced to slow growing and loss of a few pitchers and more leaf growth . but our winter is very mild like there natural winter is Your plants in the second photo look ok as long as the plant as some green growth it will grow again , best to clean up any dead matter around and make sure its not continuing to die back , then you have a problem. Tray water is best in summer and winter top water only allowing to drain, I personally only top water , never tray water even in 40c plus days in our summer , never have a problem , to wet is usually when you get problems or to dry , mix should be light and free draining . Woody stems from where die back has occurred , if your unsure you can snip it back a very small bit at a time to see where the new wood starts again, just make sure that there is no dark bits in the new live inside wood or the die back will continue to go down into the hard wood stem , just like black stem rot in nepenthe's john
  9. I liver where many Tuber Drosera's are in mass numbers only 20min drive from my house. makes winter here very cool indeed . when most other plants looking drab and boring dormant or just stop growing these beauties come up and show colour and fascinating variety of forms, from the rosette , semi erect and climbing fully erect forms . there easy to grow and need very little care, well here any how., only problem I may have is with a few tropical variety's , rest are reasonably simple to grow. I go on many filed trips here and will put up some photos of wild plants in another post. some photos of plant I have here . some pots with a variety of different plants,some come up early Autumn other late winter early spring . some already strating to die off or go to sleep , you will see. D.whittakeri ssp aberrans , large white flower, with d auriculata in the pot too . D.macrantha ssp planchonii in the sun get very tall and red foliage D.erythrorhiza ssp.collina , but after looking at the new book Australian Carnivorous Plants now see its actually ssp.squamosa page 74 figuer 86. its in full sun here . belive its D. erythrorhiza ssp.magna , just not coloring up ! D.erythrorhiza ssp. collina D.stricticaulis south AU form ,this form is found only in South Australia near Pt.Lincoln D.zonaria , last one rest have gone to sleep all ready . D.platypodas/ just germation at last D.whittakeri seed pods opening up very distinct D.whittakeri seed with the pin hole at one end ,when it falls from the pod it sits on the trap leafs till they die off , then get baked in the summer sun to germinate next winter tub of baby d.whittakeri and D.menziesii with brilliant full sun colour Tub of mature D.whittakeri with pollinate maturing pods of seed , all hand polinated. tub of mature d.preafolia , good colour in full sun, but it make sthem dir off early . another tub of mature D.whittakeri with maturing seed pods . tub of D.preafoila , these only grow in South Australia , like cephs no where elses in the world, there grow area is very restricted to Adelaide hills from just north of Onkaparinga to Deep Creek National park on the south coast oppisite Kangaroo Island another tub of large D.preafoilia D.whittakeri ssp.aberrans noth or Adelade near Murray Bridge that wil do . or there to be many photod to go through . john
  10. thanks , but must say , just cause it works for me here , its a good chance that it will for many others , but evey where is different and will have differnt results , just cause it works for one person dose not mean it a given !! and works evey where esle , but its worth a try I feel , I have used others perp work here and its worked well in other cp's . I really enjoy growing cephs , growing from seed can be quite rewarding, have sown many many many hunders of my own ceph seed , germination raters have been from fantastic to quite average , and put that to climate conditions at the time , cooler the spring better the germintion rate hotter lower germination rate . and possibaly other factors as well . Seed germination, cuttings , T/C from seed or ex-plants , all great fun to do and watch grow , growing Cephs in the lab is very rewardding and can be very quick indeed . all though cuttings /pullings is a quicker way to expand your collection and T/C even lots faster, , seed will and can give you that natural variation some seek in plants , most are very suttel to not noticable , but if you do enough some times you get some thing that stands out , like rapid growth , , larger pitcher, colour or pitcher tecture . like a box of chocolats you never know what your going to get !! Even the ceph leaf cuttings floating in water , that I am trying with some T/C techniques ,using PGS for rooting , in the water , may help with quicker rooting with this way , see what happens , it works with neps and other cuttings .
  11. As far as the plants there left being taken for /rescued/ re located , would be up to the Walpole Ranger Dept . of national parks and wild life in Weatern Australia.,to make a desition . May be this may be a oppotunity for peopel who are concerned to email the Wolpole Ranger station and ask what can be done ?? from past experience they dont like to interfe with nature , ,may be with enough emails from around the world it may have some bering on the sites future !! may this may help with emails who knows http://www.walpole.com.au/pages/natural-activities/
  12. The thing is Dimitar ,the acual area where these cephs grow at coal mine is very very small area , and now reduced again by land slids, that can not be rcovered ,or replaced back on the clif face , once it slid off its gone , and the remaining growing area , is may be one house size left ,and sitting very ginerly on the coal face , , have looked further along bother side of the main grow area and no other sits found , seeds falling into sea water are doomed . Just to add past the boat ramp to the right hand side of the ceph site, and further round from the boat ramp , there is a beach and in places has a similar soil type to the coal mine ceph site , may be its possiable to move a few groups of plants there ?? the sun is in a differnt direction there , but still good sun light , it could be a rescue place ??
  13. I think yes its time for a repot, if the roots are coimg out the bottom of the pot , but don't re-pot in summer , best in autunm or very early spring. A good trick to stop root damage is to cut out the bottom of the pot carefully take your time not to cut to many roots, and roots stuck in the holes of the pot cut the plastic away from them , hope you have plastic pots ?? , , then size up the next pot by putting the whole pot you cut the bottom out into the larer pot for sutiable size of a new pot , once you have chosen the larger deeper pot , and backfilled the mix you use to suite the old pot size, cut up from the bottom to the top ,place in new pot , then open up the old pot and just lift off ,and back fill the new pot and your done this mite help with my discription
  14. here is a few from Coal mine beach you wanted . hope that helps
  15. Sudden death syndrome of Heliamphora . SDS It happens usually when a change in a grow area temps happen , usually !! here in AU its usually a sudden spike in temps from cool to a very hot day , and it sets of that fungal bug at the bast of the pitchers root ball area. that sits dormant in normal growth temps, Have heard of other events setting of this happening or tragic event with helis . When it happened to me first time some 10 year ago I had no clue what it was or what to do ,got this massive nutans from EP and a week late it was dead, the sudden change in temps climate what ever just set the SDS off !!., now its rather simple to spot and fix for me , first knowing its coming, hot day suddenly upon us , so my huge cooler in the G/H goes on full , then a heavy treatment of Fongarid at full strength applied to the usual suspects that are nutans , nutans giant and minor x hetro , others do seem to be affected as much. and apply several times every 2 days , or if the first signs appear as pitchers drying out or looking very dehydrated /shriveling , apply on first signs. this suits our climate any how the use of Tricherdemas is not so affective as they only work at temps constant above 20c so its not working in winter or cooler climates as well as temperate and above climates . a micro climate temp stable at 20c will work spelling hopefully fixed !
  16. From my personal expericence , from growing ceph here in AU , a good winter strat is needed to help the germination process, even in the wild where seed germination is extremly low they only germinate in spring time. After ripening they fall the to ground in our end of summer late Febuary , then spend all winter being blown , washed , and floated around in the rian of winter , to settel some where they may germinate in spring . We found several ways to do Strat succesfully , dry fridge strat in a sealed container, or sow in your ceph mix and put in the G/H grow area through winter, or after strat for min 90 days sow on shpag or ceph mix under lights ., Different climate will have differnt germination rates and success, , just be aware not all your seed will be viable , even with hand pollination its not 100%. every country will have differnt grow climate to contend with, many climates are well siuted to growing cephs, they like mild sunny climate similar to it natural one.with cool / cold winters . To check if your seed cover / husk hids an actual seed , is to soak the seed in clean Rain or Ro water for several hours , till the outer case is soaked and completly wet, ,extract the case from the water and look through a strong light witha magnifine glass or your young good eyes !. unlike mine !! to see the acual seed in side , it will show as a darkish spot inside at the end where it was attached to the flower pod, . you can let it dry and strat the seed or take it out the case and strat or do the whole soaking the outer case/husk after stratification .
  17. Unfortunately, the ceph Site at Coal Mine beach ,has been extensively damaged ,to the extent that there is only approx less than 1/2 of the previous existing site left ,Much of the area had been taken by land slides further along the cliff side from many previous storms ,whether there were ceph colonies there one could only speculate . on a trip there in June last year , after a massive storm had passed through the lower part of WA several days prior to my arrival , the site had large land sides on the 2 last faces of the site, ,as you may not know , the soil sits on a coal face some look like rock as well , , its soil not very deep , the soils is held in place by some small tress and good amounts of native grasses, small shrubs , but no roots can get into the coal the face , it is on a steep angle about say 40 degrees some more some less. The worst part is the main area where the larger groups of ceph colonies where is gone! , collapsed into the sea water and by now washed away , when I arrived it had only just happened days before, as I got there to coal mine days after the storm had passed through ,it was cold wet and windy , even the Park rangers were on leave / holidays so no one knew !!. I feel the coal mine site is going to disappear some time soon , a few more large storms like the one in June 2012 and the remaining soil may not be able to withstand the pressure of a land slide , lets hope I am wrong , there is not much left, from previous visits its looks like a loosing battle for the site . some time in the future the coal mine ceph may be no more , that will be very very sad day !!. The area where Richard Nun had taken the ceph shots for the Book by Greg and Richard , Australain Carnivorous Plants , that area is gone ,only a small upper portion of that site is left, from waht I saw these photos are all I am prepared to share. dew to very bad reactions from some people for posting images of this area ! new land slide new land slide new land slide old land slides
  18. Hi the leaf shape and colour and texture looks very similar to N.boshiana or N ramispina hybrids I have here so possibly crossed with either one of them ,as the pitcher gets a bit larger the hybrid cross will be more prominent hopefully ! J
×
×
  • Create New...