hmbluck

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About hmbluck

  • Birthday 02/23/1978

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    Cambridgeshire
  • Interests
    BOTANY: mainly North American carnivorous plants.
    COLLECTING: high-end hi-fi; pottery and porcelain; fine pens; haute horologie; fossils; thematic philately.
    TRAVEL: Europe and USA.
    MISC.: rare whiskies; high-performance cars; resistance training.

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  1. The Florida Panhandle is one of the world's most important areas for biodiversity. This nine-day trip to the Gulf Coast states of Alabama, Florida, Louisiana and Mississippi was arranged to explore the longleaf pine forests. Historically, these ecosystems once stretched right across the South, nearly unbroken, from Virginia to Florida to Texas. Today less than 5 percent remains of the 90-million acre original system, which included open pine savannas with a lush understory of native grasses and groundcover. These forests host a remarkably diverse plant and animal community that includes some 300 bird and 2,500 plant species. Many of them depend upon a structure that is maintained by a frequent fire cycle (either natural or through managed-burns). Of particular interest, were the bogs and other wetlands that provide a home to carnivorous plant communities. Due to man's unfortunate presence (drainage/land reclamation, development for housing, mining and logging activities) several of the sites may represent the last remnants of these communities. Many of the sites were on stewarded land (e.g. Nature Conservancy) whilst others were not. No detailed location information is provided in this album. Additionally, the trip also provided an opportunity to view wetland birds, insects, reptiles etc. Unfortunately, flash-flooding and heavy rainfall associated with Tropical Storm/Hurricane Barry meant that several hiking trails were closed or impassable in Louisiana and Mississippi. Similarly, by the time I returned to Florida, water levels in Apalachicola National Forest and the prairies towards Gainesville had risen significantly. This meant that further opportunities to view additional sites was unfulfilled.
  2. Last autumn I had a bog installed in the sunniest corner of our south-west facing rear garden. Having been a collector of carnivorous plants for many years this modest-sized bog garden now affords me to develop a more permanent display in the garden. At around 3.5m (long) x 4.2m (at its widest), the total volume of materials required to fill it comprised: 1,600 litres of peat; 400kg of horticultural sand (lime-free, of course), 400 litres of perlite. The compositional mix varies, depending on the intended location of the various plant types. Planting has started this weekend with 25x Darlingtonia californica, 15x Pinguicula grandiflora, 40x Dionaea muscipula with a further 25x butterworts, 35x Venus's flytraps, 65x sundews (including Drosera binata, capensis, rotundifolia, filiformis, tracyii, anglica), and 60x hardy pitcher plants (Sarracenia flava, flava var. maxima, flava var. cupra, flava var. rugelii, flava var. rubricorpora, purpurea purpurea, purpurea venosa and purpurea heterophylla and a few natural hybrids) to be planted later this month. Sympathetic bog plants that are non-invasive will provide shelter to some of the more delicate carnivorous plant species. On the raised railway sleeper platform at the rear, a specially commissioned 1.3m tall pitcher plant sculpture made by a master blacksmith will add year-round interest and a focal point for the winter months. If people are interested in seeing how the project develops, I will be updating this post periodically. Message me if you want details of landscaper, blacksmith and nurseries and stone/growing medium stockists and I'll be happy to share these. Really looking forward to getting this planted and for the summer to roll round!
  3. Stephen - I am suspecting the higher temperatures we experienced in July may have stressed the plants. But would it take 6-8 weeks for this to manifest itself?
  4. Thanks for your reply. The soil mix is two parts perlite, one part peat. Full, sunny exposure in a bog garden with daily cooling with crushed rainwater ice-cubes. Haven't had any losses previously and none of my other plants are showing any signs of disease or stress. It seems to affect large clumps of parent plants only - the plants at the end of runners appear to be in good health.
  5. Hi, I'm just wondering whether others are experiencing loss of established plants as the summer draws to its end? I've noticed around a half-dozen older plants have recently, and for no apparent reason, started becoming flaccid before browning and dying. I've dug a couple of these plants out and the entire plant appears to be dead. There's no grubs in the soil (a few snail/slug eggs were found earlier in the year and removed) and the plants have been kept watered and their roots cool... I'm at a bit of a loss... Any thoughts/similar experiences would be welcomed. Howard
  6. I have taken leaf-cuttings between May to October with success for all attempted species and hybrids.
  7. Some are - some aren't! It depends on what you want to grow and just how exposed your garden is. Our garden gets strong winds from time-to-time which can sometimes damage the plants, I've found that Gardman plant supports can help the tallest plants (such as the Sarracenia flava variants, S. leucophylla and some of the taller Sarracenia hybrids) but generally once the leaves finish developing and 'harden-off' wind isn't a big issue. The heavy rain and hail we've experienced here has done far more damage to the plants. For low-growing plants consider: Venus' fly-traps, native sundews, native butterworts, Sarracenia purpurea, S. psitticina etc.
  8. Hi Phil, It may be your recent registration is preventing you from viewing the growlist, or the link may be faulty (doesn't appear to be for me, but I don't know about others). In the meantime, here is the growlist: Cheers, Howard PS And by the way 'Welcome!" Cephalotus follicularis Darlingtonia californica Dionaea muscipula (standard clone) muscipula (giant trap erect form) muscipula (large green form) muscipula (red line form) muscipula ('Royal Red' form) Drosera anglica binata binata var. multifida binata var. multifida f. extrema capensis (pale form) capensis (typical form) filiformis filiformis var. tracyi rotundifolia binata var. multifida nidiformis intermedia filiformis (all red form) x hybrida x beleziana Heliamphora nutans x heterodoxa Pinguicula grandiflora Sarracenia alata flava flava var. maxima leucophylla minor minor 'Okefenokee Giant' psittacina purpurea subsp. purpurea purpurea subsp. venosa var venosa purpurea subsp. purpurea f. heterophylla flava var. cuprea flava var. ornata (F198) flava var. ornata (Apalachicola National Forest) (F203) flava var. rubricorpora (Giant red tube, Apalachicola National Forest) (F112) flava var. rugelii (Milton, Florida) x chelsonii x catesbyi x catesbyi var. heterophylla x 'Juthatip Soper' x moorei x excellens x harperi x mitchelliana x swaniana
  9. With the exception of the Cephalotus and Heliamphora, all of the plants in my grow list are grown outdoors. Most stay outdoors year-round, only the Sarracenia minor, S. psitticina, Drosera capensis, D. binata var. multifida f. extrema and filiformis are removed and spend their winter in an unheated (but sheltered) garage. Haven't lost any plants to the winter in the past three years (touch wood!). Hope this helps. Howard
  10. Just a quick question: I'm looking to start growing Nepenthes but would want plants that remain compact over time as I am limited on the amount of space available for this purpose. I have a small terrarium that I'd be looking to use (30 x 30 x 80cm [w x d x h]). I seem to recall seeing a post about a fortnight ago of a small terrarium with N. ampullaria? that looked ideal... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, also the names of any UK-based suppliers (of course, if this latter request contravenes forum rules on discussing dealers etc then please pm me). Thanks in advance, Howard
  11. For anybody that may be interested... Please click on the following link to view a selection of photographs taken during a recent trip to northern California and southern Oregon to view, principally Darlingtonia californica in the wild. In addition, two other species Drosera rotundifolia and Pinguicula macroceras ssp. nortensis were also encountered. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150888418946589.413427.532376588&type=3&l=542e939cfe
  12. Darlingtonia californica, South Fork Road (southbound), near Douglas Park, Del Norte County, CA, USA.
  13. Nikon D7000 with 'all purpose' AF-S DX 18-200mm f3.5-5.6G VR II lens.
  14. Dear All, In recent weeks I've noticed that my H. nutans x heterodoxa have started to produce pitchers with very poor nectar roll/spoon development. I realise this can indicate insufficient light, although the plants are grown in a terrarium with two 45W blue spectrum 6400K growlights powered for 14 hours a day and located approximately six-eight inches above the top of the plants. The plants all have a good degree of colouration. I mist twice daily, humidity is maintained at around 65% and the temperature inside the terrarium is about 24C during the day, dropping to 18-20C at night. Without constantly moving the plants around the house, I'm going to struggle to achieve a greater temperature variation now that the central heating is on. So my question is this: Are my plants not developing properly because of poor or low levels of light or do the other variables have an impact? Most texts I've read only talk about light being the issue, but given the otherwise strong growth (leaves are getting to four-five inches) and healthy colouration I do wonder... Any help or observations would be gratefully received. Howard PS The Cephalotus really seem to appreciate the growing conditions in the terrarium... I am curious to learn whether, come the Spring, they can be grown successfully outdoors in southern England? Longer-term: how hardy are they?