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hmbluck last won the day on November 23 2012

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About hmbluck

  • Birthday 02/23/1978

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    BOTANY: mainly North American carnivorous plants.
    COLLECTING: high-end hi-fi; pottery and porcelain; fine pens; haute horologie; fossils; thematic philately.
    TRAVEL: Europe and USA.
    MISC.: rare whiskies; high-performance cars; resistance training.

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  1. Stephen - I am suspecting the higher temperatures we experienced in July may have stressed the plants. But would it take 6-8 weeks for this to manifest itself?
  2. Thanks for your reply. The soil mix is two parts perlite, one part peat. Full, sunny exposure in a bog garden with daily cooling with crushed rainwater ice-cubes. Haven't had any losses previously and none of my other plants are showing any signs of disease or stress. It seems to affect large clumps of parent plants only - the plants at the end of runners appear to be in good health.
  3. Hi, I'm just wondering whether others are experiencing loss of established plants as the summer draws to its end? I've noticed around a half-dozen older plants have recently, and for no apparent reason, started becoming flaccid before browning and dying. I've dug a couple of these plants out and the entire plant appears to be dead. There's no grubs in the soil (a few snail/slug eggs were found earlier in the year and removed) and the plants have been kept watered and their roots cool... I'm at a bit of a loss... Any thoughts/similar experiences would be welcomed. Howard
  4. I have taken leaf-cuttings between May to October with success for all attempted species and hybrids.
  5. Some are - some aren't! It depends on what you want to grow and just how exposed your garden is. Our garden gets strong winds from time-to-time which can sometimes damage the plants, I've found that Gardman plant supports can help the tallest plants (such as the Sarracenia flava variants, S. leucophylla and some of the taller Sarracenia hybrids) but generally once the leaves finish developing and 'harden-off' wind isn't a big issue. The heavy rain and hail we've experienced here has done far more damage to the plants. For low-growing plants consider: Venus' fly-traps, native sundews, native butterworts, Sarracenia purpurea, S. psitticina etc.
  6. Hi Phil, It may be your recent registration is preventing you from viewing the growlist, or the link may be faulty (doesn't appear to be for me, but I don't know about others). In the meantime, here is the growlist: Cheers, Howard PS And by the way 'Welcome!" Cephalotus follicularis Darlingtonia californica Dionaea muscipula (standard clone) muscipula (giant trap erect form) muscipula (large green form) muscipula (red line form) muscipula ('Royal Red' form) Drosera anglica binata binata var. multifida binata var. multifida f. extrema capensis (pale form) capensis (typical form) filiformis filiformis var. tracyi rotundifolia binata var. multifida nidiformis intermedia filiformis (all red form) x hybrida x beleziana Heliamphora nutans x heterodoxa Pinguicula grandiflora Sarracenia alata flava flava var. maxima leucophylla minor minor 'Okefenokee Giant' psittacina purpurea subsp. purpurea purpurea subsp. venosa var venosa purpurea subsp. purpurea f. heterophylla flava var. cuprea flava var. ornata (F198) flava var. ornata (Apalachicola National Forest) (F203) flava var. rubricorpora (Giant red tube, Apalachicola National Forest) (F112) flava var. rugelii (Milton, Florida) x chelsonii x catesbyi x catesbyi var. heterophylla x 'Juthatip Soper' x moorei x excellens x harperi x mitchelliana x swaniana
  7. With the exception of the Cephalotus and Heliamphora, all of the plants in my grow list are grown outdoors. Most stay outdoors year-round, only the Sarracenia minor, S. psitticina, Drosera capensis, D. binata var. multifida f. extrema and filiformis are removed and spend their winter in an unheated (but sheltered) garage. Haven't lost any plants to the winter in the past three years (touch wood!). Hope this helps. Howard
  8. Just a quick question: I'm looking to start growing Nepenthes but would want plants that remain compact over time as I am limited on the amount of space available for this purpose. I have a small terrarium that I'd be looking to use (30 x 30 x 80cm [w x d x h]). I seem to recall seeing a post about a fortnight ago of a small terrarium with N. ampullaria? that looked ideal... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, also the names of any UK-based suppliers (of course, if this latter request contravenes forum rules on discussing dealers etc then please pm me). Thanks in advance, Howard
  9. For anybody that may be interested... Please click on the following link to view a selection of photographs taken during a recent trip to northern California and southern Oregon to view, principally Darlingtonia californica in the wild. In addition, two other species Drosera rotundifolia and Pinguicula macroceras ssp. nortensis were also encountered.
  10. Darlingtonia californica, South Fork Road (southbound), near Douglas Park, Del Norte County, CA, USA.
  11. Nikon D7000 with 'all purpose' AF-S DX 18-200mm f3.5-5.6G VR II lens.
  12. Dear All, In recent weeks I've noticed that my H. nutans x heterodoxa have started to produce pitchers with very poor nectar roll/spoon development. I realise this can indicate insufficient light, although the plants are grown in a terrarium with two 45W blue spectrum 6400K growlights powered for 14 hours a day and located approximately six-eight inches above the top of the plants. The plants all have a good degree of colouration. I mist twice daily, humidity is maintained at around 65% and the temperature inside the terrarium is about 24C during the day, dropping to 18-20C at night. Without constantly moving the plants around the house, I'm going to struggle to achieve a greater temperature variation now that the central heating is on. So my question is this: Are my plants not developing properly because of poor or low levels of light or do the other variables have an impact? Most texts I've read only talk about light being the issue, but given the otherwise strong growth (leaves are getting to four-five inches) and healthy colouration I do wonder... Any help or observations would be gratefully received. Howard PS The Cephalotus really seem to appreciate the growing conditions in the terrarium... I am curious to learn whether, come the Spring, they can be grown successfully outdoors in southern England? Longer-term: how hardy are they?
  13. Thanks for the nematode advice... I'll definitely look into this further. In the meantime I'll add a strip of copper around the bog's perimeter. Best regards, Howard
  14. Hi All, As winter approaches my thoughts have turned to preparing my plants for their hibernation period. Cutting away dead/dying growth and checking the soils for pests, I have noticed a larger than usual quantity of slug eggs; particularly in the more open growing medium I use for the Darlingtonia. Does anybody know of a good way of preventing future occurrances? (During the winter period a number of plants will need to be divided and repotted so can remove the eggs by hand; but ideally I don't want to disturb the plants every winter unless absolutely necessary). I've read that copper strips can deter slugs; various insecticides and, of course; beer traps... which (if any) works the best or are there other methods that either kills the adult slugs or prevents their eggs from hatching? Best regards, Howard