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Posts posted by linuxman

  1. Here's an example of what a couple of years in my conditions does to Matt's plants.

    This photo shows the plants I bought on Saturday - an ornata (F345) at the back with the rubricorpora (F26) at the front. Notice how relatively evenly dark is the S. flava v. rubricorpora.


    This photo is of Matt's F42 (S. flava v. rubricorpora) which in his g/h is a solid dark maroon. Unfortunately after 2 years mine is now not so dark.



  2. 1 hour ago, Alexis said:

    Yep that will have an effect. But the bigger the greenhouse the more heat they retain, so they get a headstart because the heat from March/April sun sticks around.

    Yes, I agree they do get more and earlier sun than most of us. Matt did say that's why he uses the whitewash to reduce the temperatures to manageable levels. Not sure about the idea of whitewash diffusing light, though. I tried to find the albedo value for whitewash on the internet but couldn't. But surely it'll be quite high - snow for instance can be up to 90%. Admittedly it won't be solid so a proportion of the light will get through but maybe it's as high as 50%. Also albedo is a measure of the whole spectrum, so UV will be reflected as well.

  3. Went to the Open Weekend on the Saturday. Lots of people there and had to use the overflow car park - just a grassy field. What with the recent rain there was a great danger of getting your car stuck.

    I only bought 2 sarracenia this time as I have very little more room for more plants, so got a nice rubricorpora and an ornata. While there I asked Matthew why I can't get plants I've bought from him to be as well coloured as his seeing as we both use glass greenhouses (his being slightly larger of course :biggrin:) - and he has whitewashed roof panes in his! He reckoned it's down to heat and humidity - he has no venting in his greenhouses for instance. So, that's something I'll try in the future by reducing the venting to occur at much higher temperature, but will need to ensure there are no watering problems.

    Anyway, here are a few photos of the day for those who couldn't make it.















  4. 17 minutes ago, JuanP said:

    Looking at the bag you got, I'd say place it so that the green live parts are at the top, with the brown at the bottom. Also, as @linuxman said, first take a 2cm thick layer of Sphagnum peat and line the bottom with it, and lay the live moss on top of it. Keep it all quite damp and give it a bit of air circulation while still keeping high as possible humidity.



    What he said :yes: Mine grow outside no problem as well. Certainly had plenty of water recently.

  5. 46 minutes ago, dimitar said:


    I'm not  a chimp  and don't think someone of the other peeps discussing in this thread is a chimp , so you should ban yourself  because u insult the people and you brake the forum rules: 


    Forum rule '2]> Personal attacks, rudeness, 'Flame Wars', insults to others, or arguments will not be tolerated. Challenge others' points of view and opinions, but do so respectfully and thoughtfully. Any member who threatens anyone on the forum, via Private Message, email, or other means will be banned immediately and without notice. '

    My understanding of this is that it's the threatening behaviour that results in bans not the rudeness. And, anyway Alexis doesn't make any attack on particular persons just a general observation of potential damaging appearance of the forum. I'm all for healthy discussion but I don't want to see mindless trolling here.

    • Like 3
  6. 8 hours ago, danielfurman634 said:

    Thanks! Actually, I just realised my plants came in a growing medium of (I think) live Sphagnum moss and only just realised there aren't any drainage holes! Will this be alright or should I attempt to drill some holes in or perhaps repot them?

    Repotting may be difficult because of the live moss. If possible make some holes in the base otherwise you'll have to top water and guess when it's wet enough.

  7. Yes I know Staunton Harold, I was there a few weeks ago. As for the plants you've bought the larger one is a hybrid involving Sarracenia purpurea, but difficult to with what. The other involves Sarracenia psittacina either as a pure species or as a hybrid, again it's difficult to tell. You can only really name plants when you're absolutely sure of their origin. It's probably safer just to call these Sarracenia hybrids.

    I'm not sure of your knowledge of these plants so I'll give you some basic stuff to get you going. Apologies if you know all this already.

    Sarracenia (ie US pitcher plants) are bog plants and like to sit in water during the summer growing period. Therefore put the pot in a tray or similar and fill the tray with rain, distilled or RO water. Never use tap water in the East Midlands. The plants also need plenty of light, as much as you can give them. So, as I mentioned before put the pot on your South facing windowsill and don't let the tray go dry. Come late October the plants need to go into cold dormancy, so you should put them outside (no good in a centrally heated house) to experience the cold over winter. Keep the compost just damp over this period. Round about the middle of February you can bring the plant back indoors and start watering again.

    If you need to re-pot make sure you use the correct compost. For sarracenia I use a mixture of moss peat, perlite and sand in the ratio 4:2:1, but some people leave out the sand. Staunton Harold have a good supply of J Arthur Bower's peat at a reasonable price. Most brands of peat are OK - just don't use Westland peat! You can also buy pre-mixed compost but it is rather expensive if you have many plants - which I'm sure you will very soon!

    Feel free to start a separate thread with questions you may have. Happy growing.

  8. Hi and welcome to the forum. You don't say which type of plants you'd like to grow, but an easy one for your South facing window would be Drosera capensis. This is easy to grow and can become a weed in established collections. I wouldn't recommended N. American pitcher plants (sarracenia) for windowsills for in my experience they never get enough light. You should have more luck with Nepenthes though, but they don't tend to be cheap to buy. Someone from the forum may be able to help you out there when you've been on a while. Just remember to use the correct compost and only water with rain/distilled/RO water. Feel free to ask questions, we're a pretty harmless lot :yes:

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