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Everything posted by maxxima

  1. My seedlings have germinated/ are growing on top of the central heating where the humidity reads %10-20, perhaps it's a good idea to decrease humidity then as they don't seem to need it.
  2. I keep reading about this damp-off situation killing a great number of seedlings but I have never experienced it myself. I think that situation is a cultivation error. 2-3 months ago 17+ seedlings germinated for me and %100 are still alive today; a few working on the 9th leaf or so. Not a single seedling has died. It's true that a few went black on the tips and keeled over; but a new sprout always formed in the middle. I don't know what caused the situation as I have them in small groups and visibly there's nothing different about them. But the point is they survived. I'd like to note that seedlings are very resistant to cold. A few germinated outside at 5-10C. I have noticed that when it's below 10C, they won't grow but they won't die either. 3 of my seedlings are outside sitting in 0-5C now; they almost haven't moved in 2 months but they are still alive. Another observation: There's no such thing as moving shock. I constantly moved them around from day 1 and they didn't notice. I took a few outside to cold weather (0-10C); they didn't grow, stayed the same for a few weeks but as soon as brought them back in; i mean literally the next day, they started growing again. I am pretty sure they enjoy a little warmth for growing. Biggest factor for me is light; the more the better. But it's also important to note; lack of light doesn't kill them. I have a few growing without any bulbs and they are very healthy. Not as tall and robust as the others, also slower but their leaves remain alive for a longer time and they don't get burnt on the tips. Just a few observations from a first-timer, happy growing to all.
  3. Thank you very much for posting that link, Kamil! I have 17 seedlings divided in 5 pots; I was really worried about them growing together. But after seeing Jan raised 9 of them in a pot, I am greatly relieved.
  4. I can't say anything about established plants as this is my first attempt but so far I haven't witnessed any problems with seedlings germinating together. The biggest one here is the oldest one,
  5. I don't remember, I have a really short term memory. It's creepy to read this as today I noticed it grew a new shoot for the first time since flowering. Was that your magic ? If it makes it through the customs - why not.
  6. maxxima


    From the album: My house/balconies

    a southeastern room with a balcony door that's open 24/7.
  7. This is truly amazing... Martin I am wondering, how old is this setup ?
  8. Sublime! I don't remember seeing a more beautiful setup in cultivation... Thanks for sharing.
  9. maxxima


    By the way, this is part of the care sheet that was sent to me by the original owner: In the fall with the risk of frost (eg if you are growing in zone 5) the pots are knocked over so they will not get any rain and the pot will dry. Alternatively, it could be placed in a greenhouse or a patio and allowed to dry. The leaf will die back. Do not cut it off until it completely yellows and collapses as it may be translocating sugars into the corm until it is withered. Once it is dry, it can be stored in the dry growing medium until spring and then dug up so that small corms can be seperated from the mother corm. Winter storage can also be in dry peat or in the open air. Storage temperatures should be somewhere between 42 and 50f. If stored too warm, the corm may grow at a time when you are not prepared to grow it. Corms can be started in pots indoors in cold climates and then transferred outside when night temperatures do not drop below 55f. Remember, the warmer the temperature the faster the growth and the longer the season for the leaf. This species is cold hardy and can survive in ground as far north as Raleigh, North Carolina if soil is well drained. Propagation is generally by offset. When the corm is dug unpotted in its dormant state, you may find small corms attached by stolon-like structures to the main corm. These can be seperated and potted individually.
  10. maxxima


    You can dig them out like tulips and store ziplocked in a dark/cool area or leave them in the pot throughout winter (dry) depending on your temperatures...My climate is close to mediterrenean climate so I tend to leave them in the large pot outside. It's easier and they always come back when the summer heat hits. I dig a few of them up to monitor things. If you do that, make sure iyou do after the stem has died down on the surface and wait a bit for the roots to transfer back to the corm. When you take the corm, it shouldn't have a network of roots, it should be mostly by itself. By the way, do watch out for fungus gnat larvae, they really love the corms...I always do a DDVP wash before digging them out and when I first plant them in spring. If you dig them out, make sure they are clean of larvae or they will eat the corm to oblivion in the bag.
  11. Greetings from Istanbul, I've been also using pine needles but in little amount. Unfortunately I am not an aged VFT grower so I couldn't tell you if it makes a difference or how much of a difference it makes...It hasn't been that long but the plants you will see below were potted into a pine mix at the beginning of summer and this is going to be their first dormancy. They all had 2-3 leaves back then, I wish I had taken a picture but I didn't. In case you are curious; my mix is %50 perlite, %25 peat, %25 pine needles and topped with live sphagnum. The sphagnum is partly very black; I suspect that's due to an insecticide (sp?) I have sprayed lightly. However, I have also sprayed a few home recipes (against mites) so I don't really know which one is the culprit. ps: I don't ever feed any of my plants. They are all on the balcony taking care of it themselves. In case you wondered about that oversized fly trapped... :)
  12. Gorgeous photos! Love the gigantea,erythrorhiza, cepha especially but all are great. Looks like a variety of habitats in terms of ground medium. Thanks for sharing.
  13. Hello! Good idea and congratulations on actually doing it! Most of my plans remain as...just plans Honestly, I am thinking the current spiral design is too distracting and the white color adds to that as well. While cephalotus is a very attractive plant and there are 15 of them there, they didn't grab my attention at all. Maybe hide the design partly by LFS or just pick a different color? I dunno, just some ideas of mine. Thanks for sharing!
  14. I've just cut three flower stalks from Paradoxa down to 1 inch segments and planted them in half wet LFS and peat, hoping for some good results :)
  15. Agreed, Noah! I'd like to use this opportunity to say, as you can see, sometimes flies are wrong
  16. I've just placed my first order, will let you guys know how it goes!
  17. I never knew you could grow the corm outside the soil like that, very cool! I'll try that with mine next spring. Huge corm btw! Congrats
  18. Newsflash! Hirsuta takes the award! Obviously she was offended and decided to prove she's much better at stinking, Flies seem to agree!
  19. My seeds have arrived in short time, all in good condition - Thanks!

  20. My seeds have arrived in short time, all in good condition - Thanks!

  21. It's great fun to read your posts Andreas My Conophytum has arrived along with a Stapelia Grandiflora, Hoodia Macrantha and Hoya Carnosa. Conophytum looks fine for now, I am making research on the genus little by little every day. I need to learn fast so I can get some of those awesome species in your lithops thread!
  22. Oh WOW! I love these! I think I may get addicted soon. I especially love the ones in the end, the ones resembling brain. Also Verruculosa is very very interesting!
  23. Selam Andreas! You scared me a little about Conophyta now. Looks like I picked a difficult one for my first time...Well, that's me as usual! I was browsing the lithops on the online catalogue (which you can see here) and that's the one I liked the most. No turning back now, I'll start making some research. Thank you very much for your advice. I don't have any loam or pumice, my options are limited here. All I have are vermiculate, perlite, peat and the other usual stuff. I'll probably do a mix of those and put some special cacti mix in as well. I am familiar with root rot, but I have a nice balcony facing East + South-east (I keep all my CPs, cacti, succulents and aroids there) and I am a water nazi so I am hoping we'll get along fine with conophyta. Pray for me! I have heard of Kiron before about its application on Nepenthes leaves to kill some very tiny mites. I don't know if we have it here but I'll definitely look into it. I have used DDVP before. It is effective but not for a long time, can't say I am happy with it. OK I am holding back the alcohol (for the plants that is!) I LOVE their smell! It's very interesting, very unique in my experience. I would describe it but that would be almost...kinky Very sensual and different, though. In my experience, Huernia have very faint smell. I need to press my nose right into the flower to get anything, and it's usually still subtle then. Stapelia is stronger but Hirsuta is the only one I've smelled. Maybe Nobilis or Gigantea would be stronger, don't know. Orbea is the strongest on my balcony. You can smell it from far away even, it fools me everytime, I keep thinking "wow what died here ??". I just saw this... Umm...You are in trouble.