maxxima

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Everything posted by maxxima

  1. This is truly amazing... Martin I am wondering, how old is this setup ?
  2. Sublime! I don't remember seeing a more beautiful setup in cultivation... Thanks for sharing.
  3. maxxima

    A.konjak

    By the way, this is part of the care sheet that was sent to me by the original owner: In the fall with the risk of frost (eg if you are growing in zone 5) the pots are knocked over so they will not get any rain and the pot will dry. Alternatively, it could be placed in a greenhouse or a patio and allowed to dry. The leaf will die back. Do not cut it off until it completely yellows and collapses as it may be translocating sugars into the corm until it is withered. Once it is dry, it can be stored in the dry growing medium until spring and then dug up so that small corms can be seperated from the mother corm. Winter storage can also be in dry peat or in the open air. Storage temperatures should be somewhere between 42 and 50f. If stored too warm, the corm may grow at a time when you are not prepared to grow it. Corms can be started in pots indoors in cold climates and then transferred outside when night temperatures do not drop below 55f. Remember, the warmer the temperature the faster the growth and the longer the season for the leaf. This species is cold hardy and can survive in ground as far north as Raleigh, North Carolina if soil is well drained. Propagation is generally by offset. When the corm is dug unpotted in its dormant state, you may find small corms attached by stolon-like structures to the main corm. These can be seperated and potted individually.
  4. maxxima

    A.konjak

    You can dig them out like tulips and store ziplocked in a dark/cool area or leave them in the pot throughout winter (dry) depending on your temperatures...My climate is close to mediterrenean climate so I tend to leave them in the large pot outside. It's easier and they always come back when the summer heat hits. I dig a few of them up to monitor things. If you do that, make sure iyou do after the stem has died down on the surface and wait a bit for the roots to transfer back to the corm. When you take the corm, it shouldn't have a network of roots, it should be mostly by itself. By the way, do watch out for fungus gnat larvae, they really love the corms...I always do a DDVP wash before digging them out and when I first plant them in spring. If you dig them out, make sure they are clean of larvae or they will eat the corm to oblivion in the bag.
  5. Greetings from Istanbul, I've been also using pine needles but in little amount. Unfortunately I am not an aged VFT grower so I couldn't tell you if it makes a difference or how much of a difference it makes...It hasn't been that long but the plants you will see below were potted into a pine mix at the beginning of summer and this is going to be their first dormancy. They all had 2-3 leaves back then, I wish I had taken a picture but I didn't. In case you are curious; my mix is %50 perlite, %25 peat, %25 pine needles and topped with live sphagnum. The sphagnum is partly very black; I suspect that's due to an insecticide (sp?) I have sprayed lightly. However, I have also sprayed a few home recipes (against mites) so I don't really know which one is the culprit. ps: I don't ever feed any of my plants. They are all on the balcony taking care of it themselves. In case you wondered about that oversized fly trapped... :)
  6. Gorgeous photos! Love the gigantea,erythrorhiza, cepha especially but all are great. Looks like a variety of habitats in terms of ground medium. Thanks for sharing.
  7. Hello! Good idea and congratulations on actually doing it! Most of my plans remain as...just plans Honestly, I am thinking the current spiral design is too distracting and the white color adds to that as well. While cephalotus is a very attractive plant and there are 15 of them there, they didn't grab my attention at all. Maybe hide the design partly by LFS or just pick a different color? I dunno, just some ideas of mine. Thanks for sharing!
  8. I've just cut three flower stalks from Paradoxa down to 1 inch segments and planted them in half wet LFS and peat, hoping for some good results :)
  9. Agreed, Noah! I'd like to use this opportunity to say, as you can see, sometimes flies are wrong
  10. I've just placed my first order, will let you guys know how it goes!
  11. I never knew you could grow the corm outside the soil like that, very cool! I'll try that with mine next spring. Huge corm btw! Congrats
  12. Newsflash! Hirsuta takes the award! Obviously she was offended and decided to prove she's much better at stinking, Flies seem to agree!
  13. My seeds have arrived in short time, all in good condition - Thanks!

  14. My seeds have arrived in short time, all in good condition - Thanks!

  15. It's great fun to read your posts Andreas My Conophytum has arrived along with a Stapelia Grandiflora, Hoodia Macrantha and Hoya Carnosa. Conophytum looks fine for now, I am making research on the genus little by little every day. I need to learn fast so I can get some of those awesome species in your lithops thread!
  16. Oh WOW! I love these! I think I may get addicted soon. I especially love the ones in the end, the ones resembling brain. Also Verruculosa is very very interesting!
  17. Selam Andreas! You scared me a little about Conophyta now. Looks like I picked a difficult one for my first time...Well, that's me as usual! I was browsing the lithops on the online catalogue (which you can see here) and that's the one I liked the most. No turning back now, I'll start making some research. Thank you very much for your advice. I don't have any loam or pumice, my options are limited here. All I have are vermiculate, perlite, peat and the other usual stuff. I'll probably do a mix of those and put some special cacti mix in as well. I am familiar with root rot, but I have a nice balcony facing East + South-east (I keep all my CPs, cacti, succulents and aroids there) and I am a water nazi so I am hoping we'll get along fine with conophyta. Pray for me! I have heard of Kiron before about its application on Nepenthes leaves to kill some very tiny mites. I don't know if we have it here but I'll definitely look into it. I have used DDVP before. It is effective but not for a long time, can't say I am happy with it. OK I am holding back the alcohol (for the plants that is!) I LOVE their smell! It's very interesting, very unique in my experience. I would describe it but that would be almost...kinky Very sensual and different, though. In my experience, Huernia have very faint smell. I need to press my nose right into the flower to get anything, and it's usually still subtle then. Stapelia is stronger but Hirsuta is the only one I've smelled. Maybe Nobilis or Gigantea would be stronger, don't know. Orbea is the strongest on my balcony. You can smell it from far away even, it fools me everytime, I keep thinking "wow what died here ??". I just saw this... Umm...You are in trouble.
  18. Andreas, then it looks like I will be needing your advice because I have just ordered my first lithops! (Conophytum meyeri puberulum) I am totally clueless about them. I will make some research of course, I still have a week before it arrives. Have you found an effective way/insecticide to battle spider mites ? They are the absolute nightmare for me. They have destroyed a few of my most precious plants including a huge elephant ear. The organic way of using soap+water to spray on plants does work but it's rather time consuming. Lately I've been using medicinal alcohol to wipe the leaves, the results are good so far when combined with regular spraying. Luckily I am not interested in orchids yet, that would be the final nail in the coffin! I am deliberately staying away from them as I know one may easily get infected Let's see if I like lithops. You know, Mrs. Hübner may be right about the weekly watering/fertilising of both huernia and orbea; they rather love water in summer. The expert I got my plants from has a big collection and he told me to water frequently in summer but fertilise once every two weeks so that's what I've been doing. I guess it all depends on your soil mix and growing conditions though... Caralluma Rogersii just bloomed a fabolous flower! It has a very interesting smell. It doesn't stink like Orbea but it's like...protein...if you know what I mean It has several ones about to open, I am waiting for the other buds to take a good photo.
  19. Noah, you're very welcome! Daniel, trust me I hug them every day
  20. maxxima

    Simple Pleasures

    Daniel your avatar is creepy Poor thing got attacked by aphids, not on the upper plants but the ones below which are surrounded by dead leaves. I guess aphids could make it there because of the dry areas. It stayed under water for a while and was saved. Then crows made short work of ALL her blooms (no seeds this summer, every stalk cut by damn birds) so she's living under a big plastic bottle now. And look at her! Only getting stronger, a true survivor (did that just rhyme?)
  21. Hello Andreas, Yes, Anıl is my name :) Don't worry about your plants, they are really easy. I use a soil mix of cacti mix (this is how it's sold, a yellow package, i can check the brand if you like) and I mix it with %50 perlite. The mix already contains perlite in the package but I haven't experienced any negative effects of using %50 more; in fact, I haven't had a root rot case since then except with Edithcolea that is. I kinda remember she's from Somali, she can not stand cool temperatures so it's another story. Just hold back the water is the only important thing I can tell you. In winter I hardly water succulents, maybe once a month. I never water my cacti in winter. I leave all my succulents and cacti outside even when it's down to 0C. In summer I water once every week or so depending on how quick the mix dries up. They receive about 8 hours of direct sunlight in summer so they do need more frequent watering. It is easy to save a plant from a "not enough water" case but it's so difficult to get rid of root rot...So, just don't water, be very harsh about it. That's my way, anyway! I didn't know there are different Ceropegia species. I have a Ceropegia Woodii; she's a crazy bloomer. Mom has one but hers hasn't bloomed in years. It might be about the direction they're facing. Mine are facing West, getting afternoon sun and they get very very little amount of water. I can't keep this windowsill clean!
  22. Thank you very much! That was very useful for me as well.
  23. Hey guys, I have a few more photos of new blooms coming. They should be ready soon, buds are swollen. Hey Inactivemoth, the species are: 1. Stapelia Hirsuta 2. Orbea Variegata 3. Huernia Angolensis 4. Caralluma Rogersii Merhaba Andreas :) What a warm message, thanks! Yes I have a small collection of them. Most of them are easy. I grow them like I grow my cephalotus or the other way around :) You just need to be careful with some of them. Edithcolea Grandis is one! I grew that beauty for a year before root rot took her away from me. I still managed to root all the cuttings I took but lost those because of the exactly opposite reason this time: too little water! Cephalotus is like kindergarten when compared to Edithcolea, in my experience anyway. Here's my list: Orbeopsis lutea var. vaga Orbeopsis lutea Huernia pendula Huernia Keniensis Stultitia tapscottii Huernia angolensis Huernia lepida Stapelia hirsuta Orbea Variegata Caralluma Rogersii Echidnopsis Cereiformis Edithcolea Grandis - cutting, struggling You can share your shots here if you wish! sevgiler, anıl
  24. maxxima

    Simple Pleasures

    Agreed Jim! Survivors are the bomb :)