Jerry Copeland

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About Jerry Copeland

  • Birthday 12/31/1942

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    http://www.jsionline.freeservers.com/index.html
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Maria, California
  • Interests
    Research into cultivation of Lycoposida & bryophytes.
  1. They are nice. http://www.google.com/search?um=1&hl=en&biw=1046&bih=514&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=dactyrhiza&btnG=Search&oq=dactyrhiza&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=3557l8112l0l10l10l0l5l1l0l156l607l2.3l5
  2. Of the plants shown I would recommend that you do NOT use them in your bog unless your bog covers several acres! The Typha (known as Cattails here in USA) is just way too large a plant and will spread and form a large colony with alot of dead looking stems and leaves. The watercress is an annual and will die out and can make a mucky mess of it. The Caltha is a great plant but is probably more at home on mucky soil than on peat. Have you ever visited a bog? There really are not that many different plant species in a bog. Mostly grasses, some sedges, various moss species and depending up
  3. I believe that you will need full sunlight to get the desired coloration. And that is probably for at least 4 to 6 hours. Maybe some full spectrum lights with the plants close to the tubes but with plenty of air movement to help keep them cool.
  4. You know it is really odd how something that just does not have the pizzazz of a cattleya or even a Zygopetalum is somehow coveted just because it was so hard to find or to grow. I much rather have an ordinary cymbidium instead!
  5. Did you just repot the plants? Maybe not enough root and nutrients for the plants to handle the number of new growths and flowering too!
  6. How large is this public display? If it were large enough you could grow the different species at different strata within the enclosure. The main thing is that Helis really need the light, the coldness day and night, and the ACTIVE air movement 24/7. Possibly put the helis at one end with a fan and bright light and drip irrigation and use other plants to set up screening to adjust air impact and humidity.
  7. Why don't you check with botanical gardens or arboretums in the area?
  8. UPDATE ON REPOTTING RECOVERY OF HELIAMPHORA MINOR Since July, 2010, the plants have been subjected to generally favorable weather that was coolish, foggy or with some rain, and light breezes. However, there were serious episodes of record breaking heat, notably in late September with high heat continuing into October, 2010. My culture has tapered off with less watering and spraying but flooding of the pots occurred two or three times a day. The results are surprisingly mixed with some progress in growth and some loss of pitchers. Overall, though, I believe that the plants are doing quite
  9. Good luck on getting them germinated. For bonsai? Well these babies are very SLOW growers so it may take awhile for you to get one that good enough to bonsai. I mean like 20-30 years.?? I bought a seedling five years ago and it is still fairly small, maybe 3 feet (90 cm) tall. The trunk is fairly small. To bonsai one of these you should check out any local nursery that might carry older specimens and see if any even look up to being bonsai. You might have better luck with Coastal Redwood, Sequoia sempervirens, as it grows much faster and can be propagated vegetatively rather easily by tak
  10. Hmm not too sure about the seed but in the US NATVE STANDS are protected. If you find any plants available at nurseries they probably had to be grown from collected seed of native plants at one time or another. The seeds in this thread were collected from plants being grown in England. Don't think USA laws apply.
  11. Know this is an old post but I have been thinking that the mix that I use for Heliamphora might be perfect for the Jewel Orchids. I have tried growing them in bark/woodsy type mixes and though they did do well for a while I found that some seemed to suffer from the decomposing mix. Luckily the plants were spared when some slugs invaded my small greenhouse and helped themselves to my precious plants!! Hopefully I have gotten control of the slugs. I also think that the mix I am experimenting with on growing Lycopodiums may also be better for Jewel Orchids. Hope to try this out next year on a G
  12. There are not that many retailers who offer any kind of bog orchids. Here is one in the US http://www.carnivorousplantnursery.com/cgi...amp;category=15 Arethusa bulbosa is probably inaccessible due to its rather spotty occurence and to most of its sites of occurence falling under federal protection. http://www.naturalheritage.state.pa.us/factsheets/15418.pdf Here is a link to Cyp Haven where Carson has posted links that may be of interest http://www.c-we.com/cyp.haven/index.htm
  13. Like Lycopodiums? I do. And I have tried year after year to grow these plants and to no avail. I have read all the myths associated with their culture from not having the right soil fungus to "they can't be grown in pots." Well I think I have finally hit upon the right potting mix for them. The following links will pop up images that you can click on to enlarge and that should introduce you to what I have done and what I am now attempting to learn. Enjoy. http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s184/jw...010/ASFASS1.jpg http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s184/jw...010/ASFASS2.jpg http://i152.p
  14. The old handbook on growing mosses is interesting but my own experiences in growing mosses http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s184/jwcimage/Mosses/ has led me to use a 50% blend of milled peat moss and freshwater sand or a combo of 2 parts sand to 1 part peat moss (by volume) for growing mosses and liverworts. And NOT GROW THEM WITH THEIR POTS SITTING IN WATER! This may be fine for Sphagnum and a few aquatic mosses but not for terrestrial or epiphytic mosses. In fact for epiphytic mosses that grow on trees I just sit the moss into a ZipLoc bowl with NO SOIL of any kind. Grows great. One