Richard Hole

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Everything posted by Richard Hole

  1. Hello I am wondering what you think of my method to restore old potting mix for carnivorous plants that was mixed maybe 2 or 3 years ago or if you know of a better and more simpler way? I have been using half sphagnum based TEEM peat and half perlite for Sarracenia. I am thinking of removing moss and old roots in the pots and pouring the mix from them into a polystyrene box with holes in the bottom. I could put the box on top of another box of old mix. Above them, I could put another empty box with holes in the bottom so water entering it would be spread evenly over the boxes below.
  2. Hi Below are the Nepenthes I have. I prefer to use the same mix for all of them. Do you think a mixture of peat moss and coarse perlite with a size of 10mm would be better? ventrata or ventricosa x alata maxima venticosa x truncata miranda According to Wikipedia, it is a ((N. maxima × N. northiana) × N. maxima) hybrid. gentle edwardsiana x burbidgea ventricosa veitchii x huerilliana venticosa x maxima sibuyanensis lantern Lantern (N Rebecca Soper). ventricosa x caruneulata var robusta ventricosa x truncata konak (albomarginata x veitchii) venticosa x
  3. Hi Do Nepenthes worry much about what potting mix is used if I use coir, peat and perlite? The coir I had before had some large chunks about 20mm wide but the one I have now does not have them. It is https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-90l-coir-power-garden-soil-mulch-block_p2960146 . Currently I have sphagnum based peat and medium grade perlite mixed up in equal proportions which I use for Sarracenia and plan to add other things to that mix for Nepenthes. The size of the perlite is about 4mm. I am wondering what proportion of my current coir I could mix with my current peat an
  4. Hi Has anyone tried pine needles in Nepenthes mix and have any more to suggest since this topic was posted a few years ago? I am wondering if they would also help aerate the potting mix long term. Regards Richard.
  5. Hi Thanks for the link. It is a lot colder in winter where the VFTs grow naturally than my temperatures are in winter. Normally I do not put them in the fridge. However, the ones I bought at the nursery are not given a dormancy and this winter it is forecast to be warmer than normal so I thought they would do better if given good dormancy. What I may do is not bother about putting them in the fridge when the weather is cooler in winter. However, they will probably experience a longer photo period than they did at the nursery in Melbourne. However, the intensity of the light sho
  6. Hello I received some Venus Fly Traps in the mail a couple of days ago that I purchased bare rooted and wrapped in sphagnum moss. The grower from Melbourne does not let them go into dormancy and keeps them heated all year round. At the moment, days in Melbourne are shorter than at my place. So I thought I would purchase them now in mid winter and put them in the fridge for about a month before potting them just before spring. This is because my winter temperature average range is between about 13 and 21 degrees but may be higher this year due to the forecast. We only rarely get down to
  7. Hello I asked about pruning Sarracenia before on the forum. However, since them I thought of other ideas that could help growers. In the past I have got my workers to selectively only cut the dead leaves and leave the green ones. However, this takes much longer than cutting everything off and would cost me hundreds of dollars in wages more than if they cut everything off in one go at the base just above the crown. I am just wondering if it there is much significant difference to the health of the plant next Spring or Summer between the plants that have everything above the crown r
  8. Hi The terrarium where I will propagate the plants will be heated. However, the greenhouse where I have the plants that I will be taking the cuttings from will not be fully heated. Therefore, if I leave taking the cuttings go until after the cold snap then some of the plants in the greenhouse may get stressed due to the cold and the cutting material may possibly not strike as well. I am wondering if this will be the case for the temperatures I described. Regards Richard.
  9. Hello Do you think the season or weather conditions when Nepenthes cuttings are taken will make much difference to the success rate if the cuttings will be planted in a heated terrarium? A cold snap is predicted as Winter has just started, so I thought it may be better to take the cuttings just before it in case the plants became stressed due to the cold. The temperature range is predicted to be from 9 to 20°C from Friday for a few days. Temperatures have mostly been above 15°C up till now. Would it be much advantage to take the cuttings before the cold snap? If I leave it go until s
  10. Hi Do you know anyone that has tried honey in the tissue culture medium or are you able to try it? It kills bacteria and is good for plants and striking cuttings. I have used it to strike cuttings. Honey may increase the chances of the plants in culture living without infection and it may save a lot of time and expense of the extra sterilization. I thought it would be a low cost safe solution. I read sugar is used in the mix. Honey could possibly replace that. Do you know anyone else that knows a lot about tissue culture and may be interested in trying honey or finding out about it? I
  11. Hello Do you know any webpages which outline how big the traps of the different Venus Flytrap varieties get? If we can find this information, it could help growers to sell more plants as it will make it easier for people to decide what varieties to get For example, It would be good to find out how big the traps of the "Fast" variety gets in comparison to "Big Mouth" variety and how large "Big Mouth" gets in comparison to "big vigorous" and how "big vigorous" compares to "G4xG37" and how "G4xG37" compares to "DC XL". Let me know of any information or if you have a rough idea of compar
  12. Hi I live at Tolga near Cairns in tropical Australia at an altitude of 757 meters and the dew is extremely heavy at the moment and wets things outside even by 9 PM. A few people have suggested morning at about 9 AM just after the dew dries on the plants. Do you know the best way to find out if thrips are on the plants before they do damage? Would a microscope be needed? I have struggled to see them through a magnifying glass. If I could identify how many are there it may save having to make a follow up spray as I did spray about 3 weeks ago. Your help is appreciated Regards Ric
  13. Hello When is the best time of the day to spray Sarracenia for thrips on sunny days when the maximum temperature is about 28°C and when there is a heavy dew? I am spraying Yates Success that is described at http://www.yates.com.au/products/pest-control/insects-concentrates/yates-success-ultra-insect-control/#5cLPUyQJOW5eMA1J.97 . It says "Do not spray when shade temperatures are near 28°C or higher" "Contains spinetoram, the latest generation insect control derived from beneficial soil bacteria. Spinetoram has translaminar movement, which means it moves into the leaf, making the solution re
  14. Hi I wonder if the bubbler will aireate all the tray of water if it is a shallow tray. Perhaps it may need to bubble in a few places in the tray and also do you think that such a set up would save having to ever change the water until the cuttings strike? Regards Richard.
  15. Hi When striking cuttings in water, how long have you been able to leave the water go without changing to fresh water while still getting a good strike? I read it should be changed about once a week but this is not really practical. I wonder if anyone has managed to get a good strike if they only change it every couple of months or not at all perhaps by using a method like i suggested in my last post. In a terrarium it would take a long time to evaporate and would rarely need topping up. Regards Richard.
  16. Hi I was informed sphagnum needs acid conditions to grow well after I told a friend how I unsuccessfully tried to grow it by hanging it in the greenhouse on some gutter guard. I thought this would be an idea to save space as I thought it would grow on both sides of the gutter guard. So I think it would need something like peat moss under it. Also, some sphagnum is dead when you buy it and does not grow. It will take time to grow enough so in the mean time so I thought I could try something else like striking cuttings in water. However, I read that the water needs to be changed often and
  17. Hello Thanks for the suggestion. Sphagnum is expensive. I do use it on many of my cuttings where I wrap some around the cutting and pot in peat and perlite in 3 inch tubes. I have dozens of Ventrata cuttings that will take up a lot of room if I do this and it may not be worth using Sphagnum for them. Also, I wonder if a cutting dies in Sphagnum, can the Sphagnum be used soon after for another cutting or could the dead cutting spread fungi or bacteria in it? I heard people use water and they say it works well and it may work out easier if it does not have to changed much, so I thoug
  18. Hello I am wondering what is the best and easiest way to grow Nepenthes cuttings in water and I am also trying to find a post I once saw on a forum about rooting Nepenthes cuttings in water where Polystyrene was also used to help prop them up. Have you seen it or do you know where it is? I think the only practical way to grow them in water would be to have a lot of them in the one tray of water and have the cuttings fairly close together with perhaps an inch between them. Do you think this would be all right? I just hope it will not spread disease between them. The tray could contain
  19. Hello The bleach I am referring to is described at http://www.whiteking.com.au/faqs/ which states: ”White King bleach is chlorine bleach which contains the chemical sodium hypochlorite. This chemical kills germs and disinfects clothes and household surfaces. It is the same chemical that makes swimming pools clean enough to swim in” If I ever do sterilize with bleach, do you think this bleach is all right to use? I rinsed it off the pots. However, I heard it should not do harm even if it is not rinsed off as it breaks down. However, if I do the below only a quick rinse and no bl
  20. Hello I am thinking that for the healthy Sarracenia I may be able to pot one of the divided plants back into the same pot it came out of again without having to wash or sterilize the pot. This is because the plants were growing all right in the pot that it came out of and there was no crown rot. Could this be all right? I was just thinking this because it takes many hours of work to wash pots and then sterilize them. What it costs me in wages is more than the pots are worth new. I can see the point of washing and sterilizing pots if the Sarracenia died or maybe better still not using tho
  21. Hello I should have also stated that I live at Tolga at 757 meters altitude, near Cairns in tropical Queensland and we have a number of pests and diseases here. I am also wondering if it would be worth dipping used but washed pots in Sulphur or Hydrogen Peroxide or possibly bleach? Regards Richard.
  22. Hello Is there much of an advantage in washing roots and soaking Sarracenias in a fungicide when dividing? What I have done before is take the plant out of the pot and wash the roots under a tap to get rid of almost all of the potting mix. Then the clumps were divided by pulling apart the crowns. These were placed in a solution of wettable Sulphur and soaked there for a few minutes. Then they were potted up. Do you suggest this method or could I get away without having to wash the roots or soaking in Sulphur? If I did not soak in Sulphur or alternatively Hydrogen Peroxide, would it mean
  23. Hello Have you used or heard of someone that used organic honey instead of root hormone for Nepenthes cuttings and if so, have you found that it either helps or does not do any harm? I heard it is anti fungal and bacterial so if I used it, it would save me having to sterilize the knife or cutter blade. It would be worthwhile experimenting with it because it supposed to help with cuttings and many people use it as you can see at https://www.google.com.au/search?q=honey+hormone+cuttings&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&gfe_rd=cr&a
  24. Hello Do you know of anyone that has done some experiments to measure how much difference various cutting striking methods make for Nepenthes? For example, some people claim that a particular slicing technique is better while someone else suggests something different. Some people suggest putting a split in the base of the stem while other people say to put slits in the outer layer of tissue. With a very sharp knife blade, I used to cut the petiole (at the base of the cutting) off where it joins the stem so the cut also removes the outer layer of tissue on the stem to expose the meristematic