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Everything posted by johns

  1. Not a fern expert, but it reminds me of Microsorum musifolium.
  2. Here's another sundew bog, about 2-3 KM from the other one. I only found Drosera rotundifolia, but I didn't want to walk too far into the bog, so it's possible that D. anglica grows there as well (I usually find it near open water, in much wetter conditions than D. rotundifolia).
  3. Thank you I found Drosera rotundifolia on another bog as well, will probably post a few pictures tomorrow. Peat bogs are indeed beautiful.
  4. Posting some pictures of these bog standard plants in case somebody is interested. Trysil is in the east of Norway near the Swedish border and has a cold inland climate. If I recall correctly, july is often the only frost free month. The bog pictured is at 581 meters above sea level, and the sundews probably have a quite short growing season. Last years flower stalks on the Drosera anglica appeared to be quite short. Overview of the bog. Cloudberry. Drosera rotundifolia. Drosera anglica habitat. Drosera anglica. Orchid?
  5. Bumping this as I'd like to ask about more commonly available Sarracenia hybrids. Are there any found in garden centers that might survive outdoors here? I remember seeing pictures of Sarracenia x catesbaei introduced on a Danish bog, so perhaps that might be worth a try? (I don't think I've seen S. flava or any other pure species for sale.) The reason for the question is that I realized that I need a CITES certificate when buying Sarracenia from outside Norway, which makes it too expensive.
  6. Thank you. That's what I'm finding out too, with a Nepenthes x hookeriana. Are you sure the humidity doesn't go below 30%? On my north-east facing windowsill the humidity is 30-40% on rainy days, and 25-30% or below on sunny days. Yet the plant seems to be pitchering and growing just fine. Having read in several books and online references that carnivorous plants require high humidity, in particular Nepenthes, I find this surprising.
  7. What kind of humidity range do you have on the windowsill?
  8. Back in September I sowed spores of the beautiful hart's-tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium). Here is one of my pots of sporelings: Not too bad for a first attempt at growing ferns from spores, I think. Now the next critical phase - waiting for the small ferns to grow bigger, and slowly acclimatizing them. And finding somewhere to put them.
  9. johns

    Hart's-tongue ferns

    Spore-grown hart's-tongue ferns
  10. johns

    IMG 0114

    From the album: Hart's-tongue ferns

  11. johns

    IMG 0108

    From the album: Hart's-tongue ferns

  12. I have one already. It did just fine over the winter (it had an easy one though, insulated by snow), and it managed to keep a few pitchers.
  13. Thanks for the replies. I think I will start with a purpurea ssp. purpurea hybrid, then maybe one of the pure species next year if that goes well.
  14. I wonder if there are any Sarracenia species or hybrids other than purpurea ssp. purpurea that might do OK outdoors here in Oslo (climate link). Are there e.g. any hybrids involving purpurea ssp. purpurea that are also very cold hardy?
  15. Thank you, I enjoyed the first part, so will check it out.
  16. I agree, linear fluorescent tubes are likely better. The tubes cover a larger horizontal surface area allowing more overlap in the light distribution, and the physical dimensions of the tubes allow more light to be reflected downwards. In my opinion this is important, because fluorescent tubes spread light in a 360 degree angle. If the surface to be illuminated is directly below the light source, then half the light is wasted without a reflector (with a linear tube). I find it useful to use a online lumen/lux calculator to get an estimate of what kind of light intensity to expect, as well as
  17. Interesting, thanks for sharing. I'm another person here who likes ferns. How difficult are ant ferns to grow, are any suitable for windowsills?
  18. johns

    Nepenthes alata?

    It was bought at the garden center chain Plantasjen (Plantagen in other countries).
  19. johns

    Nepenthes alata?

    Thanks both for the ID. The plant has been in front of a reflector on a north-east facing windowsill for two months, the pitcher pictured opened perhaps a week ago. The plant seems to do well despite the low relative humidity, which is usually in the range 32-42%.
  20. Is this garden center bought plant Nepenthes alata? (It caught its first bug today, the shadow on the bottom of the pitcher is a wasp.)
  21. It's surprising to read of Drosera anglica and D. x obovata (rotundifolia x anglica) dying during the winter. I thought those were really hardy, they grow very far north after all. I wonder if it's the cold itself or something to do with the growing conditions? (And perhaps the hardiness depends on the location the plants originate from.)
  22. After reading about germinating Byblis liniflora seeds, I feared it would take months, especially since I didn't do anything special. I sowed 11 seeds on 6 April, and checking today, to my surprise 7 seeds have germinated. I sowed the seeds on a mix of sand and chopped sphagnum, and put the pot in a zip-loc bag which I placed inside a terrarium, where the temperature has been between 20 and 28 degrees Celsius. Perhaps I just got lucky this time, but fun nonetheless.
  23. Thanks. I don't think I managed to sow the seeds very evenly though, so there will likely be several seeds in a quite small area. Won't this crowding lead to slower growth?
  24. Hello, I recently sowed about 400 D. capensis seeds in a seed tray (10+ in each of the 36 cells). Before the seeds germinate, I'm trying to figure out what the best way of transplanting them are. I can think of three approaches: 1) Transplanting seedlings as soon as they appear (or as soon as they get the first true leaf). 2) When seedlings get too close; as soon as possible, either move them, or remove the smallest seedlings. 3) A "hybrid" approach: when seedlings get too close, transplant the excess into separate pots. What do you think? Would appreciate advice on this.
  25. Hello, welcome to the forum. Fun to see another Norwegian here. To avoid replying to the other topic as well, I guess your Pinguicula are 'weser' (fake or not) and 'tina' - at least those are the two names mentioned on the labels on the plants I've seen at the garden centre Plantasjen. You can actually get access to more CPs, even living in Norway, though it's expensive. You have two options: you can buy up to five (indoor) plants in a EU country when on holiday and take them with you, or you can buy plants from a internet store which offers a phytosanitary certificate. In the second case,