johns

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Everything posted by johns

  1. Autumn last year this Drosera capensis was down to a few sad looking leaves after being attacked by aphids. I then sprayed it and took it with me to the office, and placed it under a 7W Philips LED bulb (same as in this thread) on a 14-15 hour photoperiod. It's on a very shady windowsill above a panel heater, and humidity is likely very low most of the time. (About the amount of curved leaves, my coworker is slightly overzealous in feeding the plant.) Judging by the colouration of leaves and length of the flowerstalk it's doing pretty well. Another indication that white LED bulbs are suitabl
  2. I joined the BPS in January. I emailed to ask if I could submit the membership form by email, and also if I could pay with PayPal. I then scanned and sent the membership form by email, and received a PayPal invoice. No trouble at all. Perhaps because I mentioned that I was interested in the spore exchange, I received the 2012 spore list by email shortly afterwards. If I've understood correctly they only send out spores in March/April, so this is the right time to join. I have some spare Pellaea viridis spores that you can have for free, send me a message if you're interested.
  3. I'm a beginning fern grower. On the windowsill I have garden centre cultivars of Nephrolepis cordifolia and Asplenium australasicum, spore grown Asplenium/Phyllitis scolopendrium, unknown Adiantum species, and Pellaea viridis. Of these my favourites so far are A. scolopendrium and P. viridis. The others aren't doing that well for me, either because of the low indoor humidity, or because as a CP grower I'm bad at at repotting and fertilizing plants in a timely fashion. A. scolopendrium isn't really a houseplant, my spore grown plants are just being kept indoors until they reach a certain size
  4. Thanks for the video. The one on dividing Sarracenia was especially helpful for me, as I'm going to have to do my first division in a month or so.
  5. I just assumed that there must be some good evidence for the statement, but you're right, part of it does sound a little implausible. I can understand that S. purpurea might compete for space with sundews, but it sounds less plausible that it has significant impact on insect numbers. Would be curious to know if anybody is aware of published research about these issues.
  6. I don't know. Some species are worse than others (in terms of damage to natural ecosystems), and some have been with us so long they're regarded as natives. But in this case, to me it seems like it's a easy decision to remove the introduced Sarracenia purpurea. As the article states, they were replacing native plants, including sundews. In addition, if I've understood correctly, there isn't much natural peatland left in England.
  7. Surely one alien species is one too many already. If one wants to see Sarracenia, one can visit North-America or grow them in the garden/greenhouse/window sill. I have to admit I would enjoy enjoy seeing S. purpurea on a bog anywhere, even if introduced, but I don't think there's any good reason to deliberately introduce alien species in natural habitats.
  8. This has annoyed me a bit as well, reading Volume Two of Carnivorous Plants and their Habitats. The book is good, but there are grammatical mistakes, spelling errors and oddly phrased sentences that should have been corrected before print.
  9. When it comes to pesticides, I've used Provado Plus spray (imidacloprid) and Calypso spray (thiacloprid) without apparent harm to Dionaea, Sarracenia, Drosera capensis.
  10. It has tiny white cleistogamous flowers. See http://www.sarracenia.com/faq/faq5658.html
  11. By very rare I assume you mean very common and weedy. Thank you. Are there any other species that it can be confused with? (Just want to be sure.)
  12. Hello, I found a few odd plants in one of my sundew pots, and gave one of them to a biologist for him to identify. Have now been told that it's a bladderwort. I wonder if anybody here recognises it: http://www.biologforeningen.org/enbiolog/pop_slideshow.asp?mem=4929&cat=0&this=45002&autotime=6000 http://www.biologforeningen.org/enbiolog/pop_slideshow.asp?mem=4929&cat=0&this=45048&autotime=6000 http://www.biologforeningen.org/enbiolog/pop_slideshow.asp?mem=4929&cat=0&this=45100&autotime=6000 John.
  13. The tap water here has high pH (7.5-7.8) but fairly low TDS (50-60ppm if I recall correctly). My butterworts, sundews and pitcher plants don't seem to mind. As long as the conductivity/TDS is low I wouldn't worry about it.
  14. I've had Sarracenia purpurea and Drosera capensis growing in whitish partly transparent orchid pots for about 18 months. The plants are doing fine as far as I can tell. There's some green on the inner surface of the pots, but if you don't have anything else, they work OK.
  15. I'm curious to know if there are any good exceptions? (Particularly around London, planning on going there sometime during the next six months or so.) More on topic, it's much the same here. Lots of greenhouse space, little of it used for house plants (or in some garden centres, only a very small selection of house plants).
  16. Thank you, it's a beautiful fern. Great pitcher plants too.
  17. What is the plant with the trilobed leaves?
  18. In a almost closed terrarium (which is a converted aquarium), I get about 4-4.5 degrees Celsius above room temperature with plants about 20cm below 2x24W T5 HO tubes. I use a fan but there's a lid keeping the hot air in, and some of the hot air goes directly into the space where the plants are. I don't think you'll get as much heat at the same distance if you do something like what I suggested. I think my terrarium/aquarium traps a lot of heat. You didn't mention how many pots you want to have under the lamps, i.e. how large the growing area will be, so I don't know if two tubes are enough.
  19. Having the plants 1m away from the light source is in my opinion unrealistic using fluorescent lights, unless you use a lot of them. Double distance = 1/4 light. When it comes to fluorescent lighting I think the best idea is to use T8* tubes (in my opinion the light distribution is more even than with CFLs), and place them as close as possible to the plants. To reduce heat, place a clear glass or plastic plate between the lamps and the plants. Use one or more computer fans on top of the glass to cool the lamps. Choose the best distance for the plants according to the heat/light gradient. Sho
  20. If you want to use dried long-fibered sphagnum, I suggest that you chop it or tear it into very small pieces. Not knowing better I sowed seeds of P. vulgaris in a mix of sand and long-fibered sphagnum two years ago, it wasn't a success. I think at least part of the reason is that sphagnum is too coarse. In addition the sphagnum sometimes expands or moves to partially cover seedlings during heavy rain.
  21. I'll let somebody else answer the other questions. In my opinion perlite isn't very good for growing Pinguicula from seed, because rain or watering can cause the lightweight grains to move, covering small seedlings. A heavier gravel would probably be better. I know some growers use a mix of peat and coarse sand.
  22. If you have the patience to grow from spores, the British Pteridological Society's spore list contains some maidenhairs, e.g. Adiantum polyphyllum. I've only grown hart's-tongue fern from spores, but I didn't find it very difficult. A year after sowing the spores the largest plant has fronds with 13cm blades, which is faster than growing most CPs from seed.