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Everything posted by pmatil

  1. Oooo the Mikei is stunning! I wish I had one.
  2. Oh no I'm sorry Campanulata seems a bit difficult to keep alive for me.
  3. I considered getting a Hirsuta this year but I don't think I have room. Everything you have seem to grow very well.
  4. Love your Bellii uppers! And also the Veitchii Golden Peristome. Bellii died in my conditions (twice) and Veitchii is struggling with tiny pitchers.
  5. pmatil

    some cephalotus

    In closed environments spraying can encourage mold but other than that light spraying doesn't hurt.
  6. pmatil

    My Cephalotus

    Very nice. That coloration is my favourite, a little bit on the teeth and lid and some in the trap itself.
  7. pmatil


    Hi Swizzy, so you rinse it off after a while ir leave it on? What is your mixture ratio?
  8. Never heard of Cephalotus Big Donk before. What's the origin of that one?
  9. Just that is it intentionally there for you or just coincidence? For me I think the D. Madagascariensis was hiding in the soil I took from a Drosera pot. Took awhile to sprout though.
  10. Tom, you can see my heating system in this post: It uses 12V heating mats mounted on large heatsinks with fans.
  11. Very nice. You also have D. Madagascariensis with your cephs, why do you think that is? I have it too.
  12. Hi Tom, Nice howto! Just wanted to mention, the humidity sensor MAY show a significant offset when exposed to high humidity for long periods of time. It's a feature of almost all capacitive humidity sensors and especially these cheap ones. I have expensive Sensirion sensors (DHT22 is a clone I believe) and even they have at least +/- 5%RH accuracy in high humidity + the offset of 3%RH or so after some time in high humidity. Of course in a terrarium +/- 5%RH is enough. You could have another system to check the sensor in the terrarium for offset every now and then. I myself have not used Pi for my terrarium. I have a similar system, for temperature monitoring only at the moment. I am building RH meters which use the Sensirion sensors (high accuracy) and some day logging the humidity too. My main problem is the humidity controller I use. It develops a 10-15%RH offset which is a LOT. I also have a heater system which is controlled by an industrial PID controller.
  13. I'm seeing improvement in some of my neps after I reduced the amount of RED light. Not sure why, the plants were not burned but were not growing properly. I noticed the same effect in Cephalotus.
  14. I have a cheap 120 mm fan running 24/7 at 12 volts in my lowland terrarium so very high humidity and it has lasted now 5+ years. The only thing I've done is clean the blades once in awhile. I opened it once to check and there was no rust at all or any sign of corrosion. I may be lucky or then it warms up enough to keep condensation off. So those fancy waterproof fans may not be necessary depending on your usage and conditions.
  15. I like your other Amps too! I may get more Amps this year as my terrarium conditions seem to be ideal for them.
  16. I see an amp! May be the same as mine, Red-speckled, Brunei.
  17. I've always used 12h photoperiod but I think most people use 14h or more. You could run the fans constantly if your heater still keeps the temp and humidity up. For me I have a separate timer for the fan. It runs during the night every 2-3 hours, 1-2 hours at a time. This way the humidity stays high but will not drop too low. Heater is off during the night so temp drop doesn't matter - in fact it's even better as it causes the temp to drop faster.
  18. So dark... What's the Droserae growing in the pot with it?
  19. Finally, after so many years I have adult cephalotus' which produce adult pitchers. Way back when I kept them in my terrarium they did fine until the M-O-L-D destroyed them all. Since then I kept them in another terrarium but they just didn't grow that well. Last summer I got this new grow "pod". It's meant for seedlings and such but I figured cephalotus might fit in it. I replanted what was left of the cephalotus into tallish pots and some into regular, small pots. I also got 2 adult ones from different places. They seemed to do fine but during the summer I had a bad case of aphids. They all survived the treatments except one of the young ones. The humidity in the pod is not very high. I try to keep it at 50-60 % with good ventilation. I only use LED lights, with cool/warm white and royal blue + deep red ones. I have noticed, thought that you cannot use much red because the pitchers tend to burn very easily. And I like my pitchers almost entirely green with a little color in the teeth and lid. So I use mostly blue and white. They look nicer too. This is from when I got the 2 adult ones. The ones in the center part (except the one in the bottom left in the center is a Big Boy leaf pulling) and back are the oldest ones that were left from the mold incident. The tiny one in the bottom left is a Hummer's Giant leaf pulling from a fellow grower. All the others are "typical". The transparent "dome" covers the bottom tray with a hole for ventilation. And this is how they are today. Typical from with a recently opened pitcher: Typical from This one still hasn't adapted fully (making more leaves than pitchers and pitchers are not that large). Maybe because it came bare rooted. Note the weird curved midribs: The smaller ones still make a ton of small baby pitchers but one of the Hummer's Giants (I now have 2 leaf pullings) is making its first adult-like pitcher. This was a week ago and as of now it's still inflating: Larger of the Big Boys. This one was an adult plant but suffered from keeping it in a terrarium under a too strong light and it almost died completely. During the last 6 months it has growed quite well and I'm hoping to see at least juvenile pitchers this year: The rest are the old typicals (with a D. Madagascariensis, which always emerges from somewhere even tough I think it's dead):
  20. Then you should put the lights inside the terrarium. If they can handle the humidity of course. My CFLs are Arcadia Ultra Seal (IP67) so they do fine and my LED lights are too (I made them myself). The lights are hanging from the glass walls using ziptie mounting plates and superstrong double-sided tape. The lid consits of 2 glass panels with corners cut to allow cables and tubes through. This way everything is inside the terrarium and I'm free to insulate the lid without problems.
  21. Love your Bellii, the species I have never managed to grow properly (all have died).
  22. Oh, and I do have an insulating mat (car soundproofing mat) over the sides of the heated terrarium and an old blanket on top of the terrarium. They make a huge difference on keeping the heat inside. Ventilation is kept at a minimum (basically only during the night when the heating is off. This reduces condensation too). The reason I'm using 12 V heating mats is that I'm a bit paranoid about mains powered heating cables in the soil. My heating system has several safety circuits. First the controller (ebay) has over-temperature alarm which disconnects the heating via a safety circuit (relay) if the temperature goes over 38C or so. Second the heating units each have 2 over-temperature thermostats in series so if any of them trip the whole safety circuit trips and cuts off the power. And last each of the units have a thermal fuse which needs to be replaced if it blows. The safety circuit needs to be "armed" by hand if tripped.
  23. I think the bulbs are not suited for humid environments. Otherwise they might do the trick it the power is adequate. I have made my own terrarium heaters from car seat heating pads, heatsinks and fans. Currently I heat the terrarium to 28 C during the day and the heating capacity is about 90 watts max. + the lights that are inside the terrarium, 2 x 18 W T8 CFL tubes. It's a rather large terrarium, measuring at 1 m (H) x 0.8 m (W) x 0.5 m (D). I keep it in my living room which does not see temps below 19 C during the winter. The heating units are hanging from the roof of the terrarium blowing air toward the plants. Depending on your setup you could use similar heating pads on the terrarium walls maybe. Here's a picture of the heater unit: