Joseph Clemens

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Everything posted by Joseph Clemens

  1. Nepenthes are tropical, their seed has no usual inhibitors to germination. They easily germinate in appropriate conditions, if they are viable. I might expect that GA3 could cause more trouble than its worth to obtain, prepare, and apply to fresh, highly viable seed. My understanding is that it is used with difficult to germinate seed, seed that has inherent germination inhibiting systems in place. It might even cause abnormal germination and subsequently abnormal growth, if used. However, if the seed is old, and you anticipate that normal viability is strongly compromised due to age, it
  2. Here is one of the plants from the pic in my first post to this thread. It was moved up to its own 2.25" (5.7 cm) pot. It is nearly finished transitioning to winter-form leaves.
  3. I started many Mexican Pinguicula, in 100% moss peat (peat moss), first. They did well. Then I read Eric Partrat's site Pinguicula.org, and decided to try various media ingredients and combinations thereof. I discovered very little, if any difference in health or growth performance, no matter what media I used, as long as I gave them very strong flourescent lighting, weak and frequent feeding with dried insect powder and weak soluble fertilizer solutions, and kept them nearly semi-aquatically, year-'round. There are a few species that do not thrive in these conditions, but the majority do.
  4. I agree, a strong resemblance to Pinguicula 'Sethos'. It most likely is that cultivar. It has no resemblance to any form of Pinguicula ehlersiae. It may simply be a mislabel confusion. Some people, who aren't that familiar with the various species, hybrids, and cultivars of Mexican/equatorial Pinguicula can make such mistakes. When I first began my interest in these plants, one of the first plants I acquired was identified to me as Pinguicula 'Weser'. It wasn't until I had propagated it and given away several dozen divisions, that I realized its true identity was Pinguicula 'Sethos'. I had man
  5. I believe what will9 is saying is that unofficial, unregistered names abound, while official, registered cultivar names are scarce. That many or most growers ignore the official naming conventions (coordinated by the ICNCP), that are carefully followed with most other plant groups. By looking through the various Sarracenia plants linked through the CP Photo Finder, most have "bogus" names, few have validly registered cultivar names.
  6. Those original names, given to natural hybrids, originally believed to be species, such as Sarracenia x catesbaei, are considered by some, to be invalid - opting rather for the appropriate hybrid formula. I am also beginning to lean this way, myself. If you choose to opt for these formula, in lieu of the quasi-official botanical names given to some of the primary hybrids found in the wild - you may find it simpler, or perhaps not. Hybrid formula can be written in several ways: The symbols designating the sexes of the parents can be used and the parents can then be written in any order, even
  7. With nearly optimal growing conditions the foliage of these closely related species is somewhat distinctive, though just barely. In less than optimal conditions the vegetative parts become less well defined, hence, less distinctive. Some growers question if perhaps; Pinguicula esseriana, Pinguicula jaumavensis, Pinguicula ehlersiae, and Pinguicula debbertiana, may simply be slightly different forms of the very same species.
  8. The first book, Carnivorous Plants, 1979/2005 is a very different book from the second book, Insect Eating Plants and How to Grow Them, 1988, published between the two editions of the first book. Though I'm not sure that you're talking about the two different titles and not different printings of the same book. If you're talking about two different printings of Carnivorous Plants, and I believe you are, there are probably a few typo's corrected in the second printing, though I may be mistaken. There may also be a few other differences. I have a copy of the first printing and Genlisea is mi
  9. Yes, the 90 grit is a "sieve number", and basically translates to passing a screen with 90 wires to the inch / 2.54 cm. It is a very fine sand (90 grit = 0.150 mm diameter). Silt particles are smaller, between 0.002 mm and 0.063 mm, larger particles than this are sand and smaller are considered clay. I believe that when fine sand particles like this are thoroughly blended with the peat moss, they help the peat re-wet if it becomes dry, due to their capillary attraction for water, verses the peat being hydrophobic. However it works, this media mixture seems to provide a very good substrate for
  10. Sometime back in the late 1960's or early 1970's I visited Leo Song at the greenhouses of CSUF (California State University, Fullerton). As part of an experiment concerning germinating seeds of various Sarracenia primary hybrids he had a great many Sarracenia seedlings that were growing in what were/are called 2" rose pots. He gave me about a half-dozen or so of these seedlings. The media in these pots, was an obvious combination of fine, 90 grit silica sand, perlite, and peat moss. The seedlings growing in this media were doing very well. I mixed various combinations of these three ingredient
  11. For most Sarracenia I like using a media of 3 parts 90 grit silica sand, 3 parts perlite, and 2 parts peat moss.
  12. Howdy Amar, You are correct, Drosera spatulata Hong Kong, as published in "Savage Garden", is not a validly registered cultivar. It does not meet all of the requirements for cultivar registration, so its registration is incomplete, see --> D. 'Hong Kong'. I don't believe the original publication even included a photographic standard. Cultivar names, such as Drosera spatulata 'Ruby Slippers' can be correct when written several ways; Drosera 'Ruby Slippers', Drosera spatulata 'Ruby Slippers', or D. spatulata 'Ruby Slippers'. See, ICRA Name -> "HOW DO I FORM A NEW CULTIVAR NAME? The ful
  13. Some or all leaves may die back as you describe, if the rhizome has died or if they're subjected to exceptionally cold temperatures. Without direct physical examination it is difficult to absolutely determine fatal root-rot. It is best to wait until Spring, when conditions for growth return, before examining the rhizome to make a final determination.
  14. Joseph Clemens

    Bimbo

    mobile, I completely agree with you on the lack of any distinctive characteristics. That's partially why I said, "Calling this plant anything but Dionaea muscipula can be misleading." I just added most of the other stuff, links included, to help possible new growers discover plant nomenclature.
  15. Joseph Clemens

    Bimbo

    Having an unofficial, nickname for plants is really no different than a nickname for anything else. Though it can have an unfortunate impact, when growers, unfamiliar with the official naming systems (which are already in place), mistakenly believe this name, and others like it, have some kind of official status. Calling this plant anything but Dionaea muscipula can be misleading. Since it isn't a registered cultivar name, it really only has the official importance of being someones pet name. Until it becomes registered it should never be written, enclosed in single quotes, since they are rese
  16. Back in 1988 I was a student of horticulture at New Mexico State University (NMSU). I had a student job working with the Chile breeding program, supporting staff and graduate students. I was permitted to grow a few CP, using my own materials, in small idle areas between benches in the Chile breeding greenhouse. One plant I grew there was Byblis liniflora - it was good at collecting some of the few whitefly that escaped the other IPM. I originally obtained Byblis liniflora as seed from WIP (World Insectivorous Plants), many years before. The plants I grew in a tray at NMSU were started from see
  17. Never let them dry out. Mexican Pinguicula are much more tolerant of dryness than any of the Southeastern USA species. I've also seen that all the species of Pinguicula native to this region of the USA are quite susceptible to spider mites. I kept losing plants and couldn't fathom the cause, until I began keeping some sealed inside ziploc bags, and others not sealed in bags. Then I noticed those that weren't in bags began developing brown spots on the normally upturned edges of their leaves. I severed a leaf with these brown spots and examined it under a microscope - bingo, spider mites. On
  18. I get most of my gallon size pots, for free from a local nursery from their discard pile. I just need to sort and clean them, first. For very large pots, 5, 10, 15 and 25 gallon sizes, I pay a small amount each and pick them up in my own small trailer from a local landscaping contractors headquarters. I've obtained smaller pots from other online suppliers, like Peaceful Valley, Hummert, or Stuewe & Sons.
  19. It's usually called, leaf-pulling propagation and it works as well for Pinguicula emarginata as it does for most of the other Mexican Pinguicula species, which is quite well. About damaging the original or "mother" plant, actually depends more on your technique of detaching the leves, than most anything else. My recent topic about Pinguicula propagation gives some descriptions of the process and there are several others, too. *************** One of the main keys to the process, for me, is to cleanly sever the leaves from the "mother" plant. I use large forceps to temporarily unpot the le
  20. My success and appreciation of leaf-pulling as a propagation method for Mexican and other tropical Pinguicula species and their hybrids has gradually improved as I spend more time and gain more experience working with the technique and modifying my methods to discover nuances to its implementation. I have discovered that my favorite way to implement leaf-pulling propagation, also has the secondary benefit of creating a, sort-of, short-term bank of small propagules. Many of these small plantlets, in my impromptu test, had survived well beyond twelve months, some more than twenty-four months, ju
  21. Marcus, That group of plants in such tight winter rosettes, was an unusual event for me. It was the first time I'd let the pot become completely dry. It was also a taller pot, so the plants were only about 5cm from the fluorescent lights. Then I had an extended period where I wasn't able to attend to the plants. I took that photo when the plants had been dry for about eighteen months. Most recently, about 45 months after that pot first became completely dry - there are only about eight of those plants still alive (I'm sure more would have survived if I'd been able to care for them normally,
  22. Dani, What media do you use and can you elaborate a little more on your growing methods/conditions, thanks.
  23. Very attractive plants and photos. Thanks for sharing. The Southeastern USA Pinguicula species were some of the first CP I ever grew. They may be difficult to maintain long-term, but they sure are gorgeous, and if you get them to bloom you can often get seed. If you get seed, you can then grow another generation and start all over again. I envy those that manage to maintain the adult plants for more than five years. Here in my current location the persistence of large populations of invasive spider mites has been a limiting factor in being able to maintain them, long-term.
  24. Here are another few photos of more species showing good recovery: Pinguicula jaumavensis (or it might be Pinguicula debbertiana - I misplaced the label from this pot) --> A tray of Pinguicula jaumavensis, before they were unintentionally neglected --> Pinguicula laueana --> Pinguicula esseriana --> Pinguicula rotundiflora -->