.Pico.

Very nice plants! Is there something that triggers flowering in your conditions or do they flower consistently? I have been growing them for a few years but my plants never flowered yet. I have to say that I leave them decide themselves when it is time to go dormant though, without changing waterings or other growing conditions.

No idea about UK and USA, I'm in EU. I just looked and it's still commercialized, you can search for Corteva Closer. I'm not suggesting this one specifically, it's just the only one I know and used. Spraying a large amount of something in an open field regularly and using it in a small private greenhouse are two completely different things with very different impacts and consequences.

I strongly disagree, except if in "well grown" you include "regularly inspected". The problem is that if you don't eradicate them you keep having problems year after year, especially if you have a large collection. The only really effective molecule I found is sulfoxaflor, it was commercially available in 2019 as "Closer", I don't know now. Hopefully it's not a new victim of chemophobia.

Nepenthes seeds may take several months to germinate (regardless of their freshness), keep the pot clean from moss

Seeing someone that put someone else's address on a label and and then publishes a picture of if over the net (even if allowed by the second person) is EXTREMELY scary. And be aware also that it doesn't add any relevant information or value to your plant. From now on I have to avoid sending plants to people I don't know.

Yes, don't place it in a tray constantly filled with water. If you want to use peat I'd increase the perlite amount and also use a taller pot.

Root issues most probably, looks too wet.

That species is the only one that produces mainly non-carnivorous leaves. It depends on the growth stage of the plant and it's also seasonal. Anyway, from what I can see/assume from the pictures it needs more light and I would keep it less wet and in a taller pot.

Well, actually pretty much all of what you listed, if we don't include eventual suspended solids, is a salt, if it's dissolved in water. Every solubilized metal is in saline form. Of course there is no "good" or "bad" stuff. No organisms would be able to grow in pure water. But a lot of carnivorous species do not tolerate high salinity. Here no one ever suggested him that he must have readings close to 0 in his trays, but he stated that water collected from his roof has high salinity, and I guess he could have used it for his plants in the past. "235" ppm is more than 350 uS/cm which is pretty high and I wouldn't be confortable with such readings in my trays, except eventually immediately after some particular treatments. I'm pretty skeptical you can reach such values by just soil decomposition. Considering that flushing the soil once in a while is always a good thing in any case, I would do it right now before eventual damages on the plants starts appearing.

I was talking about clays not to you but to the other person who answered. The conductivity of water depends on ion concentration. These ions are produced by dissolution of salts or dissociation of dissolved neutral species, acids for example (the cation in the case of an acid is simply solvated H+). Every soil contains species that liberates ions when water is added. Be aware that "salt" does not mean only inorganic ones. The deionized water you are using (rainwater, produced by reverse osmosis, etc...) is not ion free at all, simply their concentration is much lower than that of your tap water. To obtain pure water (which is needed for example for chemical analysis or other critical applications) you need (very expensive) multistep procedures which involve a combination of different strategies. But this would be absolutely pointless for horticultural uses. Your tester is saying " 0 " simply because the conductivity of your solution is too low for the resolution of your instrument, which is therefore measuring 0. To be more specific what you are measuring with those testers is water conductivity. This conductivity value that you are measuring, and which is usually expressed in uS/cm (EC tester does exactly this), is then converted by these TDS testers to a different (pointless) artificial scale (in ppm) which compares the conductivity measured with that of a KCl solution of a defined concentration. This is done simply because things addressed to the consumer market needs to always "look simpler to understand", and apparently something expressed in parts per million "of potassium chloride that you would need to prepare another solution of comparable conductivity" seems more understandable than a value of tnhe actual measurement in micro Siemens / centimeter. The result is just confusion. Then, of course, they even managed to mess this up by creating different scales in different countries and expressing all of them in "ppm" without even differentiation... TDS is absolutely not "everything that is in the water", be very careful about this. You can also easily see this in practice by dissolving non ionizable compounds in water and testing the resulting solution. You can use sucrose (sugar) for example.

Water evaporation lead to a continuous increase in salts concentration in the tray/soil, just flush everything with deionized water when/if the salinity is too high for you. All the ions that went into the soil since you started using your trays are still there. Clays are efficient ion exchangers, placing then in clean water for a while won't solve the salt leakage issue.

I'd avoid that, especially on damaged leaves. Use only fungicides on the plant. You can use hypochlorite or ethanol to disinfect the pot and the tray before using them again.

The root system is gone, I'd guess a fungal infection by Pythium/Phytophthora or something similar. You have to remove all the rot tissue (probably the whole root system) until you find healty stem and take cuttings (or you can also keep the stem as is). If you have an appropriate fungicide use it. You may want to cut part of the leaves to reduce transpiration.

Looks like N.glabrata/jamban/dubia or something similar to me too, but difficult to say in that shape. There must be something wrong with the conditions, I'd guess temperature is the main factor. The substrate looks wet too, but it could just be the picture.

Here in Europe you have to buy them directly from hobbists, but I know that in Asia there are legit nurseries who breeds them (a few years ago there were a few in Thailand at least, I don't know if they still operate)

It's for sure one of the many ebay(/social network) scammers who flooded the market with poached and fake seeds over the years. Ebay seems to have recently changhed the rules for seeds trade and now they probably all moved to other sites. Don't bother asking the sellers, they are all scammers. The seeds ARE poached, they collect everything they can from populations of lowland widespread species and sell the seeds as random sought after species. Not only they are poached and seeds of different species, but they are also very likely to be so old that they won't germinate. Don't support them in any ways, please. And yes, if they truly were the species advertised they would be illegal to buy. Some of those grow only in national parks.

Why wasting time with random resellers online? You pay more to have less and with absolutely no warranty on anything. And it's just for a few euros "saved". Those people make money just because some brands seems to be "trendy" these days. Keep in mind that plants can't care less about brands (and this apply especially for products advertised with phrases like "with NATURAL whatever"), I'm sure you can find equivalent products to that one locally without having to pay the shipping.

You can use any fish food you have, it is irrelevant if it is from insects or whatever else. If you want decent results it is extremely important to feed your plants.

That treatment definitely does not kill seeds (unless you mix in a huge amount of ethanol). The color change is probably just caused by hydration and it does not indicate that the seeds are dead. Just wait more time. Be very careful with Nepenthes seeds, most of the seeds sold online are poached.

Why are you using GA3? I don't see any reason why it should improve germination of Nepenthes seeds. Also, why are you assuming they should sink after such treatment? If you bought those seeds from some random sellers/resellers online then it's probably old poached trash from some lowland species which will never germinate. If it's fresh material from someone who produced the seeds then just wait, germination can require way more than one month. It's impossibile to say if ethanol was an issue as you haven't provided information on the solution you prepared. I would avoid using it anyway.

Peat-based substrates are horrible, just wash well the roots and repot them. Watering from above is always a good idea and I'd advise you to do so at least occasionally.

It's probably Nepenthes x "Rob" (robcantleyi x ventricosa).

Yes, of course. I have been using one of those (300L) for around 10 years and it still looks new, they are very durable.

Nice effect! is that an Epiweb panel? How wet does it actually stay? Do you think it would be usable in a non-terrarium environment (less humid and with a lot more air movement)?

I'll have pollen of my N.bokorensis x (veitchii x lowii) clone A available shortly. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8chx57cre1hmnm2/bokorensisx(veitchii x lowii) cl1.JPG?raw=1