.Pico.

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Everything posted by .Pico.

  1. It's probably Nepenthes x "Rob" (robcantleyi x ventricosa).
  2. Yes, of course. I have been using one of those (300L) for around 10 years and it still looks new, they are very durable.
  3. Nice effect! is that an Epiweb panel? How wet does it actually stay? Do you think it would be usable in a non-terrarium environment (less humid and with a lot more air movement)?
  4. I'll have pollen of my N.bokorensis x (veitchii x lowii) clone A available shortly. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8chx57cre1hmnm2/bokorensisx(veitchii x lowii) cl1.JPG?raw=1
  5. This is a hybrid I created back in 2011, of the two different plants I have this one is the most attractive with a stunning striped peristome and a very nice red coloration in both lower and intermediate pitchers. Nepenthes bokorensis x (veitchii x lowii): This is an upper pitcher:
  6. If you can access a WiFi network from your greenhouse you can easily build a system like those with an inexpensive ESP8266 (for example a NodeMCU module) and a temperature/relative humidity sensor like AM2303. Then you can upload the data on ThingSpeak (with a free account) and access them from everywhere, there should be also smartphone applications which can be connected to your ThingSpeak channel to have the data on your home screen in real time.
  7. I just wanted to show a couple of pictures of this new pitcher of my Nepenthes villosa.
  8. To be honest, I don't understand what's the point of what you are saying (and what's the logic behind what you wrote), what are you talking about? cultivars? plants with location? or something else? They are different things. If you want to obtain plants from a specific location you have, of course, to cross plants from the same location; if you cross plants from different location you will have plants that are completely different things and have no location. If you want plants that mantain the cultivar name you have to cross plants from the same cultivar, but of course that isn't true for
  9. That is not true (or, better, that should not be true). The problem is that we (carnivorous plants growers) have a completely distorted view of what should be registered as "cultivar". Cultivar is meant to be "cultivated variety" (variety created by artificial selection), not "individual selected plant". A "cultivar" should be a whole selection of plants that are selected for a particular homozygous character, and, as a consequence, every (note that "every", here, means truly a probability of 100%, they are homozygous) plant obtained from seed is going to show the same characteristic, and,
  10. A lot of plants don't grow under a HPS, specially Drosera species. Use a (400w) MH lamp, they are very good for every plant.
  11. Drosera graomogolensis Drosera fulva Drosera fulva x paradoxa (white to pink flowers, Mount Fife, Kimberley, WA) Drosera felix
  12. Sorry for this empty post.
  13. It's very easy to grow for me, I grow it since 2007 and I never had problems. It flower every year in spring. I grow it in full sun during the summer with always some water in the tray, and under a 400w metal halide during the winter with the pot wet, but without water in the tray. In my greenhouse in summer is very hot during the day, but the plant tolerate very well temperatures up to 40-45°C, the umidity is very high during the night but not during the day; in winter I grow it in highland condition (15°C-25°C) with very low umidity. You can use simply a mix of peat/perlite 50/50%.
  14. I know that some people are looking for the useful advice on tissue culture of the old website "world-of-carnivores"; you can use this: http://wayback.archive.org/web/. Now you can read nearly all the pages. http://web.archive.org/web/20080513140556/http://www.world-of-carnivores.com/tissue_culture.html I hope this can help someone.
  15. A piece of my greenhouse Sarracenia flava var.maxima FL40RvL North Carolina, W Nepenthes clipeata clone III Nepenthes ampullaria, green form, Brunei Nepenthes ampullaria, speckled form, Brunei Sarracenia oreophila, heavy veined Nepenthes distillatoria Nepenthes bokorensis Drosera fulva x paradoxa, seedgrown Sarracenia flava var.atropurpurea lidless #1, seedgrown Drosera regia Sarracenia leucophylla L57MK x L18MK Brocchinia reducta Nepenthes pervillei, Mahè, seedgrown; Nepenthes dubia
  16. It isn't sterile but it's difficult to obtain seeds from it.
  17. All these plants are in my grow room under a 400w metal halide lamp (Sonlight MH-HSX). Drosera cuneifolia, seedgrown (2007) Drosera peltata Drosera cistiflora Drosera neocaledonica Heliamphora heterodoxa x ionasii Heliamphora heterodoxa x minor Cephalotus follicularis Drosera capensis, all red form Drosera spatulata var.tamlin Nepenthes clipeata clone III A couple of Nepenthes pervillei seedlings Nepenthes villosa and its Sphagnum covered net-pot
  18. Thank you. I don't use only Sphagnum, in the pot there is even peat and perlite. Sphagnum is only on the top and along the walls.
  19. When the plant is small it's quite easy to grow. I use a net-pot covered with live Sphagnum, it maintains the substrate cool and provide humidity to the plant. In summer I grow it in my greenhouse where, during the day, the temperatures are about 32-40°C; it grow fast and well. The problems arise when the plant grow up...
  20. Nepenthes dubia, first upper: Utricularia humboldtii
  21. My camera is a Fujifilm Finepix S9600. My growroom: Nepenthes thai, Narathiwat, from seed Nepenthes dubia Drosera dielsiana
  22. It's only because, when I taken the pics, the ampullarias was just moved from outdoor to indoor. Now it's growing well.
  23. Yeah, I grow all my tropical plants in this growroom. The temperatures are about 20-24°C during the day and 16-17°C during the night, all lowland and highland Nepenthes grow very well. I think that the most important thing is the light, I use a MH-HSX Sonlight 400w that is strong and good for all CP. From april to october they are all outdoor in my greenhouse. Thank you to all!