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  1. Kath

    Help name my bog

    Dunno - probably use acrylics :) Some nice names coming up: "Bog Off" "The Savage Garden" "The Garden of Secret(ion)s" Not too sure about 'pete'
  2. The title says it all... I now have an above ground bog. Today it was painted (outside) with a nice brown-red paint. I am planning to paint a mural of carnivorous plants on the front with acrylic and water colours, and then I want to name it. But what should I name it? I don't have the exact measurements... but it is made of old balcony plank wood, and it is about 2 metres long, 1/2 a metre wide, and about 40cm deep. This is equal to: about 6 1/2 feet long, 1 1/2 feet wide, and about 1 1/4 feet deep. I will try to get some photo's of it tomorrow, but it also has a seperate compartment which will be entirely waterproofed for my D. Arcturi and Intermedia etc. It is going to have Sarracenia, some Pinguicula species, Drosera's and Darlingtonia in it. Oh - and VFT's So - any suggestions?
  3. Kath

    Pinguicula Wall

    Has anyone thought of using plaster of paris? According to Wikipedia it is just super-heated gypsum, and apparently, once the powder is wetted it hardens into gypsum again - which is what many ping's seem to grow on in the wild... It's also easy to find and sculpt with - and relatively quick to harden, and easy to paint/varnish, and it can also be filed away after it's set to leave a nice smooth surface in places. I'm not sure how watering would go... maybe you varnish all the spots where you didn't want it to absorb water? Just a suggestion!
  4. Kath

    aerial roots?

    My old capensis sprouted about 20 of those, before it died of old age :* Don't worry though - I think it was becasue ym plant was really old - your looks quite healthy!
  5. Kath

    Pinguicula Wall

    Well... the polystyrene didn't work... the idea was to use the polystyrene as a frame and pat clay over it to form a wall with several ' ledges' which could be filled with moss and vermiculite - but the clay wouldn't stick. I am rethinking the idea, and now currently have several leaf pullings which will hopefully sprout, sitting on a mossy rock. My hopes are that once they grow roots they will attach themselves firmly to the rock and I will be able to lift it up and place it vertically - so they are growing outwards, on a verticval surface. In this way, I will be able to observe first hand how this system will work, without spendind time making a wall which doesn't work...
  6. Hello. :) I've been reading about pinguicula lately, and I noticed that in the wild, a lot of them just seem to grow on wet walls of rock. So, I decided that I'd have a go at making a 'miniature rock wall' for my pinguicula plants... out of polystyrene, clay and toothpicks. :) (It was all I had at the time) And so begins my great pinguicula experiment - trying to get the wall growable, and trying to ge tmy pinguicula to grow in it. Will it be success, or will it be failure? I'll have to wait and see! (UPDATES COMING SHORTLY!!)
  7. Does anyone have experience with Best Carnivorous plants?
  8. Hello. There is some consideration going on between me and my friends on trying to legally import some plants into our country. We are in New Zealand, which as we know, is notorious for is customs and biosecurity. Anyhow, customs states that any live 'whole plant' entering the country must be sprayed for insects, and funugus, using two of several key ingredients THEY state. So far, I have found two chemicals on their list with reports of being Ok on carnivorous plants - dimethoate and imidacloprid. But they also have another list for mites - which also has dimethoate - but not imidacloprid. So, I need help - does anyone know whether these two chemicals are toxic to carnivorous plants, namely nepenthes? Abamectin, from the Avermectin chemical group Dicofol, from the organochlorine chemical group Any help or feedback much appreciated.
  9. Don't worry - problem sorted. :)
  10. Oh, and I got sent most of these seeds for free - I have a lowland germinator, but it's full up with plants already, no space at all. I have to find somewhere else to put them. And it's summer here right now - temps above 30 which is why they're all germinating, and quite well too I migth add:)
  11. Uh - this is IN the house we're talking about. And they've already germinated. They came up during the week. And the only 'friend' I have who can babysit them is three days post away, so unless they're going to be happy for three days in the post?
  12. Thanks. The issue is - whether they die or not, I actually cannot afford to buy them anything to keep them warmer. I only have (Viking x Rafflesiana) x (Viking x Bicalcarata) at moment, but I have seeds of Gracilis, Ampullaria, Reinwardtiana, Maxima and Albomarginata coming soon. The place I'm putting thme is actually the warmest spot I have available in winter. It gets down to 2 degrees at night in Winter in NZ) They are in an enclosure, and I can try to keep it enclosed so it stores whatever heats available - I can probably push it to 12 or 13 degrees, and its usually above 18 degrees during the day, and I'm aiming to get a warmer spot for them next year, but I need them to survvie through this winter first. Is there anything I can do to help them, or am I going to have to give them away? I won't keep them if they're goign to die because of it.
  13. Hi. Quick question - from experience what is the minimum temperature for seedlings lowlands (generally) in winter. Aka: over a period of a few months. I mainly want to know if down to 10 degrees celcius at night will kill them if they have it through winter. Day temps will be 15+ degrees. I understand that they will slow growth an dlook awful, my main concern is will they survive, as I'm not going to be able to save up for a heat mat for them THIS winter. Next winter maybe - not this one. Thanks.
  14. Hello. I do not actually have a heliamphora yet, but I am interested in obtaining one as a future goal. I am also well aware, that as I live in NZ, a cool temperate climate, I may have my work cut out for me getting one to thrive. First and foremost I apologise if my questions have already been answered elsewhere. I didn't think many of them would've been, not in the detail I'd like. :) Ok. So far, I know Heliamphora live on the Tepuis, and that they like high humidity (70-85%) and lower temperatures (below 30 celcius) I hear that they also like temperature drops at night, and that Nutans, Minor and Heterodoxa are easiest, or hybrids between. Could someone please verify the above information for me, it having been gained off the interenet - a dubiuos source at the best of times. :) Next question: I have a grow shelf/four tier mini-greenhouse with plastic wrap to start for my base. It is situated in an area that is cool year round, but not well lit by the sun - hence coolness. How should I go about setting this up for a Heliamphora (or several different species of them). Also - is it worth devoting this largish structure for these plants - are there any other CP's that would gladly share the same set-up, or am I going to be majorly wasting space? I'm mainly wanting to know how many fluorescent watts of light I'll need. So far I have a fitting for a 20W compact fluorescent, and an 8W tubular fluorescent. I'm certainly expecting to need more for a high-light loving plant like heliamphora. But how much more? And please no 'as much as you can afford' stuff either - because I'm going to be saving up to buy this light, so as 'much as I can afford' is going to be 'the least I have to pay' which will in turn equate to 'the minimum requirement, for the plant to be happy'. Understand that I do not wish to 'stinge' on the light, I just don't have much to spend, and unlike in the US, lighting over here is up around the 40$ for a 30W fluorescent fitting. So you see. Also information on watering would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou.