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dudo klasovity

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Posts posted by dudo klasovity

  1. Hi! It finally got much warmer so I put some of my plants outside for the season , and they really took off and coloured up in the sun. I took some pics today, I hope you like them:-)

    drosera spatulata Ahipara Gumfields, pygmy-like sundew, very tiny and delicate plant:


    drosera ascendens 'all red'


    drosera enodes "Giant" caught itself a fly even more giant:-)


    drosera platystigma, for me so far kind of hard to grow but hangs on :-)


    young drosera callistos


    drosera parvula


    drosera mannii


    drosera sewelliae


    drosera pulchella starting to grow after long wwinter


    drosera barbigera ssp. barbigera "small southern form', one of the most beautiful pygmies I know of


    drosera nitidula ssp. allantostigma


    drosera paleacea ssp. paleacea


    ,,,and now some non-pygmies,

    drosera peltata ssp.gracilis 'Tuggeranong'


    some plants awakening

    drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis


    drosera intermedia


    ...and some plants which successfully underwent acclimatization from TC and now can fully enjoy the rays of sun:-)

    drosera tomentosa var. glabrata (the first non-TC, normally looking leaves in the middle mean that the plants have rooted into peat and are fully adapted to environment)


    drosera anglica


    drosera intermedia 'Algonquin Park, Ont., CANADA'


    drosera peltata var. peltata "Brisbane Ranges,VIC,AU'


  2. Hi! I am not sure whether I got your question right,,,,,,but still try to answer it:-) The jars, once sealed off, are taken OUT of the 'flow chamber' and placed under 2xT5 lights, about 15-20cm underneath. I use 16/8hrs photoperiod, which is I think standard illumination and works great. I wish you good luck w/TC! :-)

  3. Wow! Your pingwall looks kissably cool :biggrin: , Aymeric.

    Great work with the solar panel and the pump , too. Always nice to see technology in service of the nature, very elaborate set-up, thanx for sharing! Maybe something similar will work for some of my sundews :D (with some adjustments, of course).

  4. Hey, Ross!

    Your post is such a treat for me, thank you! I love the pics and video, it is a beautiful countryside, I hope one day I can pay a visit.

    About the drosera spatulata from South Island, it really looks different than non-NZ spatulatas. I grow d. spatulata from North Land (Ahipara Gumfields), and it looks different than others, too. It is similar to the one in video, more delicate, smaller rosette, leaves with thinner long petioles, smaller and differently shaped lamina and hairlike, fragile roots (like pygmies). How big does the one in the video get when adult?

    Thanx for posting the links! :hi:

  5. I guess you can get many species already in TC from commercial trade but I would like to learn the whole process of introducing different neps species into TC from seed (tissue is much harder, of course-need for antibiotics and other chemicals, hypochlorite can be too harsh for them, maybe the use of colloid silver in combination with benzalkonium chloride and some ATB can be more selective and effective)... Neps from tissue I am only intending to try once I get sterile culture from seeds.

    I have my PPM (along with hormones) from Carol Stiff from USA (so I guess-I hope, they passed the quality control) :-)

    I do not think it is exactly toxic for drosera and pings , but my comparison experiments I did with non-PPM media showed that plants grow even more crazy without it. Of course, there is a compromise needed when contamination gets into play (which is not my case right now-knock on the wood;-))

  6. sativ: thanx for advice, I will think of something else then, as far as macros are involved.

    PPM used to help a lot back when I had not have elaborated process of in-box work and subsequent steps. When I get contaminations, I will consider to use it, meanwhile it will be sitting in the fridge. It is nice to know that nepenthes are less sensitive than drosera or pings.

    Sorry to hear about your past loss of plants, but we both know this is inevitable sometimes in the learning process:-)

    As for N. villosa and N.macrophylla in TC giveway---hahaha, you are a funny guy:-) (Not ruling out that when I have it, I will send some:-)

    I will really try to grow some ultrahighlanders in steady temps of 23-24C and if they thrive I will believe in 'the absence of common requirements' in TC


  7. For pH adjustment I use NaOH and HCl solutions. For pH measurement, I used to use pH-meter (glass electrode) I bought when I was in USA, but it had to be calibrated often and later became less precise. Now I use pH plastic strips called 'Acilit', made by Merck company (Germany). They measure pH from 0 to 6 and are very good, because measure consequently with the use of 3 different chemicals. They are in the top picture, to the right of the box. pH is very important factor making difference between success and failure (of course, not the only one:-)

  8. Thanx for reply:-) So it takes some time for them to develop and take off. Yes, I did re-plate them in cothyledon stage, because some of them started dying and I needed to change the medium. Old medium had 1ml PPM in it, now i dont use PPM.

    I have read that TC plants dont photosyntetize (much), which is understandable, since there is 99% no air exchange and they do not need carbon from aerial CO2 when they get it from sugar (and other organic compounds). Nevertheless, I thought the night cold temperatures that some plants require are not only good for dark-phase of photosynthesis, but also for slowing down metabolism, thus getting 'night rest/sleep' needed to recover. So what you say if i keep an ultrahighlander nepenthes, grown in TC at 23C at all times, it does not know the difference? Interesting...

    For neps I try to use medium:

    Macroelements: 230.0mg Ca(NO3)2.4H2O, 300.0mg (NH4)2SO4, 150.0mg KH2PO4, 80.5mg MgSO4, 40.0mg CaCl2

    Microelements: 5.53μg CoCl2.2H2O, 15.0mg FeEDDHA, 5.53μg CuSO4.5H2O, 1.4mg H3BO3, 0.18mg KI, 3.86mg MnCl2.2H2O, 0.055mg Na2MoO4.2H2O, 0.9mg ZnCl2 , 3.73mg Na2SO4

    Vitamins: 1.0mg thiamine hydrochloride, 1.0mg riboflavin, 0.66mg pyridoxine hydrochloride, 0.66mg niacin, 1.6mg Ca-panthotenate, 66.6mg myo-inositol


    I might need to mix another, but first I wait for the behaviour of this species:-) I mix this one assuming they dont like high concentration of NH4NO3 that is in MS, even diluted (wrong ratio to other compounds), so I use different forms of NO3 and NH4+ in lower concentrations.Please, take this for one of many experiments.

  9. Wow that is so cool! Very nice developed plants! I mostly specialize in drosera genus, just starting to do some Nepenthes on different media. I started with TC about a year ago. Can you tell me how fast do the nepenthes grow in TC from seed? Drosera grows very quickly, but never had a chance to compare nepenthes growth. For example, these seedlings of nepenthes muluensis are about month old. I think it is an ultrahighlander, so I give it colder nights so if the growth is too slow I guess it is due to media (I am testing my own composition) and maybe the chemicals need to be altered..?.

    Here is the pic


    BTW, I will have the requested swap TC species ready for you by the end of this month:-)

  10. toimeme: That depicted box of mine does not have any filter of any kind whatsoever. It is just a box with front and top glass and front bottom with rubber shields protecting from fallout contamination. Needless to say that all the gaps on sides and top are sealed off with hardened silicon gel. I put everything I need inside and spray it with 98% ethanol which kills potential contaminants and then use rubber gloves and spray my hands and work. So far I get about 3% contamination (never fungal, only bacterial which shows months after, and can be handled quite easily since the plants are already big by then).

  11. Hi, Simon!

    For drosera, I use home-mixed MS, somewhere near 20-30% dilution, 4-5g/l agar (very pure, microbiology grade, Sigma-Aldrich, but most of the time regular food-grade works with satisfactory results), sugar:25g for nepenthes, 30g for drosera, 40-60g for tuberous drosera. Vitamins- similar to MS, full strength.

    I do not use PPM since it can hide contamination and slows the plants down in growth. I do not use giberellins, they are thermolabile and I do not have filter-sterilisation device. (For species requiring cold stratification, I stick them in fridge for month or two).

    Lights: regular T5 (fluorescent white) work great.

    Sterilisation for seeds: 0.5%NaOCl, drop of liquid soap (3-5mins), one rinse with sterile water.

    I wish you good luck! :-)

  12. Hi, no, it does not get too hot in the jars, since they are under white cool fluorescent lights.

    Here are some pics of my low-cost setup:

    My "laminar flow hood", which you can call it only with exaggeration:-) Basically an old cupboard with some walls replaced with glass and flexible rubber shields on the bottom (cut off- exercise book covers;-))


    Inside, some beakers with sterilant, sterile water and alcohol, tweezers and spray.

    The jars and medium are sterilised in pressure cooker and solidified when cooled


    Then I get all the things needed assembled (seeds, tissue,parafilm,.....)


    And after hours of tedious work inside, I get my plants ready to grow and seeds ready to germinate (if no contamination or sudden death occurs)

    Later they look like this:


    ...and few months later of doing nothing they are ready to be replated or deflasked. (here, picture of drosera montana var. glabrata and drosera peltata from jar during deflasking process)



    ...and some hardened plants:


    just wanted to show that it can be done at home with some degree of success if there is a will:-)

  13. I had to repot and unpot and deflask and reflask some of my plants and since I had them all misplaced, I took some pictures. Hope you like them:-)

    drosera affinis a'la bonsai


    drosera roraimae 'Gran Sabana,Venezuela'


    drosera roraimae 'Cerro Adua, Estado Bolivar, Venezuela'


    drosera filiformis var. filiformis 'All red' seedlings


    drosera venusta


    drosera graminifolia "Giant" 'Itacambira, Minas Gerais,Brasil'


    drosera slackii


    drosera graomogolensis


    drosera sp.'Cerro Duida,Venezuela'


    drosera villosa 'Serra de Ibitipoca, Minas Gerais,BRA'


    drosera ascendens 'Itarare, Sao Paulo, BA'


    drosera sp. 'Pretty Rosette'


    drosera spatulata 'Ahipara Gumfields,North Land, New Zealand'


    drosera paradoxa 'Drysdale'


    drosera petiolaris


    drosera derbyensis


    drosera collinsiae


    drosera paleacea ssp. paleacea


    drosera nitidula var. allantostigma


    drosera barbigera ssp. barbigera "Small southern form", drosera enodes "Giant" and drosera parvula


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