dudo klasovity
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Posts posted by dudo klasovity
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mobile: i absolutely share your opinion on this topic. As in chemistry, medicine or any other branch where a novel technique is tested, there is a vast and timely experimental part preceeding the actual conclusion (if it is to be relevant and of some importance). I have only been testing this chemicals for a very short time (7 months now) and cannot be led to any conclusion but merely guess which way the results might be heading. Especially with aminoacids i am using, being part of plant's RNA and DNA and also transcription/translation proccess it is hard to say whether there can be a harmful side-effect to the plant. All I can say now is that I havent observed any so far and that the supplemented plant thrives better than the others. Of course you are right a much longer observation time is needed. Any premature conclusions might be very dangerous (e.g. we all know how the use of DDT or thalidomide ended......not good). That is why I am rejecting any offers for distribution of tested mixes.
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mantrid: "repetition" is my middle name;-)
mobile: i see you havent read all my posts carefully. Because if you have, you would learn that in order to rule your hypothesis out I had another 2 helis without supplemental nutrition to compare with the tested one. All 3 plants came from cluster division of one plant and were about the same size (actually the tested one was a bit smaller in the beginning). Potted in the same media grown side by side in the same terrarium. Genetics the same.
In addition, my heliamphora puts out many pitchers and not only about this time of the year;-)
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Thanx Heather!
It is very exciting to see getting every next pitcher getting bigger and nicer:-) Currently I am also testing another mix on drosera genus. Will report on that soon!
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Thank you so much Heather for this useful information! :-) I will try to get my hands on some of that stuff.
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TimC: Yes I am very optimistic.....and a just optimism it is:-) Kenneallyi and falconeri is known for total die off of the over-surface part of the plant when in dormancy. Dont see any reason why I should assume it is dead just because it looks like it. My question was not whether i should dispose of it but whether I should repot it or leave it dormant.
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So after both kenneallyi went into dormancy I repotted one of them. The repotted one (on the left) broke the dormancy about 2 weeks later. The other one (on the right) is still sleeping. Do you think I should repot it as well?
BTW D. petiolaris broke dormancy after repotting her as well:
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UPDATE: On the left is Heliamphora minor with newly developed trap. It is 11.5cm tall.On the right another specimen I used to grow without supplemental nutrition for comparison. About a month ago i started to fertilize it as well and now it is growing 5(!) pitchers at the same time:
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YUMMY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love ur plants!
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Dieter: thank you. I know KMnO4 is a powerful oxidant we use it often in chemical preparatory reactions. (I have tried the glycerol/permanganate mix when I was 12-quite impressive flame:-))) In solution KMnO4's oxidation strength decreases but still it is a chemical and I was not very keen about trying it (especially when pygmies are very sensitive to chemicals). But my pungus problem was very annoying and killed some of the gemmae-plants so I was desperate enough to use it. I used very stron solution (dark violet colour). Now what happened surprised me a little. The fungus survived but so did the plants. I read somewhere thay KMnO4 is good for this purpose but cannot confirm that from my own experience. Dieter you are right about the problem going away in the spring....I will move my plants to south windowsill and the fungus will be gone.
Droseraman: thanx I did not know I could avoid this problem by just simply extracting the nutrients from the peat by rinsing with water! Useful info....I treated mine in microwave but obviously that is not a way to go.....
BTW I have never heard of Neem oil ...what is is used for?
THANX for your help! :-)
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Dieter: thank you. I know KMnO4 is a powerful oxidant we use it often in chemical preparatory reactions. (I have tried the glycerol/permanganate mix when I was 12-quite impressive flame:-))) In solution KMnO4's oxidation strength decreases but still it is a chemical and I was not very keen about trying it (especially when pygmies are very sensitive to chemicals). But my pungus problem was very annoying and killed some of the gemmae-plants so I was desperate enough to use it. I used very stron solution (dark violet colour). Now what happened surprised me a little. The fungus survived but so did the plants. I read somewhere thay KMnO4 is good for this purpose but cannot confirm that from my own experience. Dieter you are right about the problem going away in the spring....I will move my plants to south windowsill and the fungus will be gone.
Droseraman: thanx I did not know I could avoid this problem by just simply extracting the nutrients from the peat by rinsing with water! Useful info....I treated mine in microwave but obviously that is not a way to go.....
BTW I have never heard of Neem oil ...what is is used for?
THANX for your help! :-)
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Today after a long time we got some winter sun so pulchella and callistos flowers opened...
Could anyone help me solve the mould problem once and for all?
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Hi!
I encounter quite big problem ....some of my young pygmies got killed by fungus/mould attack. I read somewhere that this problem occurs when you microwave peat before using it in a potting mix (which I did). Some say the MW killes all competition for fungi and it then grows much faster...well now I need to get rid of it as soon as possible. I had a can of KMnO4 (hypermangan) which acts as a disinfectant so I used a very weak solution of this to get rid of mould on the substrate. I dont want to use regular fungicide because pygmies are very sensitive to such chemicals.
Can anyone help? How to get rid of it without killing the plants? Or how to prevent mould occurence>? (P.S. the air ventilation in my terrarium is strong).
Thanx...here are some pics of my pygmies breaking the sleep (some flowering already:-))
...autumn gemmae:
...and my favourite peltata:-)
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Hi JOhnny!
I dont know where exactly in S.CA you live but I lived in L.A. for a year and a half and I think that the winter weather there is perfect for tuberous sundews. It is more humid than in the summer and the temperatures are 15-20C (sometimes less sometimes more) but within the range of what they need. Maybe you can get an artificial lights because I remember the weather in winter could be clumsy too. And when it turns too hot for them they will just go dormant like they do in Australia. I never grew tuberous sundews while in LA but i would give it a go if I were you:-)
GOOD LUCK!
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jimfoxy: that could do. I mean it is just mix of aminoacids with NO ADDITIVES. Importatnt thing is there is no sugar added. Looks perfect(not sure about the milk though). Although I dont use this supplement (I mix my own mixture from L-AA we keep in the university lab) I think the one product you pointed out might work. I just feel like I should warn everyone not to overfeed the plants! They will die. Using this supplements overfeeding can occur so easily! Just for consideration: an adult man (80kg weight) should not eat more than 5,0g BCAA per day! Now imagine how little amount is needed for a tiny plant! Another thing is that I have only tried this with the heliamphora and nepenthes species. God knows how other CPs would react to such nutrition. anyways, good luck to anyone who is willing to experiment! :-)
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These three are in a group of 9 AA called essential (the ones that body cannot produce itself). That is why they are used for humans to boost and protect muscles and also speeds up bone and skin recovery.
Note: there are other BCAA than these 3 you mentioned. I dont know how about in UK but here the BCAA are way too much expensive to be wasted on plants. Remember, the plant doesnt need to grow muscle she only absorbs nitrogen from these compounds. In other words, there are much cheaper aminoacids to be supplemented to the plants to thrive.
P.S. If you can afford the BCAA go ahead! Make sure you dont overdose them! Sometimes less is more;-)
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Amori: My first intention was to use a classical protein shake but then i found that majority of this mix cannot be digested by the plants so it accumulates in the pitchers and also in substrate and contaminates it. Then the powder residue becomes a great substrate for mould fungi etc.
So I wanted to switch to the most effective form - BCAA (branche-chained amino acids). These I didnt use because they are way too expensive to be fed to plants (I love my CPs but not that much;-)))). So I am using a mix of pure amino acids.
Mobile: I think you used too much of that mix and that the mix was not the best thing to be used for this purpose. I used to have the same problem when I started experiments. If you give feed the plant too much it will either die or you will encounter fungi attack or something like that (especially when your mix contains sugars and the plant is grown at higher humidity levels)
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UPDATE: I have been feeding this heliamphora minor my mix of 18 L-aminoacids (1gram pre week). In 2 weeks it grew 5 more pitchers:
The biggest pitcher is over 10cm now and still growing
P.S. I switched to pure aminoacids mixture from regular protein mix because i had problems with undigested components of regular mix that caused fungi attack sometimes. Using pure aminoacids causes no such thing. The maximum dose is 5g per month (growth is boosted both qualitatively and quantitatively).
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HI Johnny:-)
Beautiful drosera you have there! I think the nepenthes with pitchers is mislabeled. I have the exactly same one and it is Nepenthes x Ventrata (hybrid ventricosa x ventrata). Ventricosa has bigger "belly" and "lips" and is usually bent a bit. Here is a picture of my N. x ventrata:
I am not a nepenthes specialist though so i might be wrong about this. Maybe someone with more experience can help out:-)
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No one about the kenny dormancy? Just wanted to update picture how intensely red colour d. paradoxa gained under those lights:
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Wow Iggy!
Love the pictures and the plants are no less adorable! BTW I totally share your hatred for this time of year. GOD, I hate the winter weather!
Cant wait for the spring to come!!!!!!!
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I forgot to ask: can someone please tell me whether there is an average dormancy period? How long does kenny usually sleep? Or is it random? Should I just wait for her to start growing again or do I need to induce the growth resume by watering/changing light condition?
Thanx:-)
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I know the size of sphagnum surprised me a bit. Dont think kenny likes to be choked by huge moss so I chopped it and let it grow with nepenthes and heliamphora. BTW my family has killed many of my plants because for me "travelling" is my middle name and they just dont have the CP empathy developed yet. Now when I dont travel too far I take some of my most sensitive plants with me in my portable terrarium so no more CP mass slaughter happens:-)
My kenny went dormant so I raised the pots over the water level to let the substrate go dry. The substrate is still soaked with water so I hope the drying will not occur too late so the roots wont rot. Paradoxa and petiolaris are doing great under the new turbo lights and in humidity of 80% and temps around 33C so far. This will be my first kenny-dormancy so I hope she will break it sometimes for me:-)
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Hi Fonta~!
Beautiful pieces you have there! Both of my drosera kenneallyi commenced their dormancy period exactly the same time as yours. Maybe this is characteristic time of year for kenneallyi to go dormant?
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Breathtaking! Really lovely and very cute plants!
petiolaris trouble
in Drosera
Posted
I decided to repot it and see what happens:-)
Thanx Tim:-)