dudo klasovity
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Posts posted by dudo klasovity
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Tiny but very beautiful flowers! Love the intense colour! Great job! ;-)
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Hello Chris!
Firstly I need to say that I am no longer in possession of this terrarium. I had some buyers interested and I sold it I think in January. So I won't be able to post up-to-date photos. Nevertheless I can still answer your questions:
Case- no I did not build it myself. It used to be a digestor in an old chemistry lab that was to be put out of work. So I took it cleaned it and painted it (also waterproof bottom was necessary).
Watering- I did not have to water the plants inside the tank since the fogger was on timer spraying water 3 times a day. The fogger was placed in a plastic vessel inside the moss. Into this vessel lead a thin rubber tube feeding it water from the main tank outside the case. So all I had to do was to fill the (20litres) tank once in a while.
Lights vs. humidity- I use 2 florescent lights (60cm, 40W) and one small fluorescent light (35cm, 16W). I never had problems with these types of light using in humid environment (and have been using them for orchids for years).
GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR MASTERPIECE!:-)
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Beautiful species of the drosera genus! You must be very proud of them!:-)
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I wonder what the Drosera are getting from sugar after all it is basicly carbon oxygen and hydrogen?
Cheers
George
It is false to believe that CPs digest just and only nitrogen, phospohorus, magnesium and some other such as trace elements. Therefore these sugars (resp. polyols) can serve as a source of elements needed to build up molecules that some plant tissues consist of. Basic compounds are e.g. lignin (hydrophobic tissue part, mostly wooden parts), (hemi)cellulose and others. They also consist only of C,H,O atoms....there is not a single nitrogen atom in these vital structures (unlike for example in very important pectin, whis does contain N ). So in other words....if the plant is capable of digesting these C,H,O compounds by relevant enzymes (oxidoreductases, hydrolazes,...) then it can be utilized in building a plant's body.
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SATIV: Hi ! Actually you are reading my mind about the mixture composition. I mean, the addition of more caloric nutrient such as sugars. I never tried to use inositol nor kvebrachitol but I am testing some mixtures with D-mannitol/sorbitol currently on drosera genus. They can digest sugars unlike Helis and Nepenthes. I use mix of L-aminoacids. A powdered blend of 18 L-aminoacids (there are 20 essential in nature).
It works pretty well on Helis. Also I add some other ingredients but just to improve the digestion and cell transfer. Will have enzymatic results from a friend soon.
Cant wait to hear about your experiments! Sounds very interesting! GOOD LUCK! :-)
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I have similar experience with my d. anglica and d. dielsiana seedlings. Being for 6 months crowded in the same pot I transplanted some of them to a new large pot with some fresh substrate and wow they really took off! Grew 3 times the size in one month! Now I started feeding them awaiting some flowers:-)
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Wow! They are coloured up really nicely! Are you giving them sun or artificial lights? The H. sarracenioides looks very attractive! :-)
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It worked! Both droseras started growing new dew-laden leaves! Thank you all very much for help!
:-)
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Hi Petr!
Beautiful specimens indeed! I love the droseras particularly (although the pings look wonderful as well)!
I am under impression that your "capillaris" might be "spatulata" actually and the "spatulata" looks more like "venusta" but I may be wrong.
Be it as it is........wonderful plants! :-)
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Thankx for sharing the beauty of your tuberous droseras Dieter they are adorable! Too bad I cant smell the flowers!
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Thank you Sean!
I think that maybe if the loam had too high pH the peat was acidic enough to neuutrlize it. Quartz sand adds a bit of acidity as well som I am quite confident the substrate is ok (only worry about too high Ca2+ in it.
When we get cool sunny spring weather here I will put all the pots (with sprouting plants hopefully) outside on the south-oriented balcony.
Thankx for your comments!:-)
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Thank you Khoas! I added the loam....partially because I read somewhere that it is better for slower drying out of the substrate and partially because there is a huge brick company close to our house with the highest quality clay- so I didnt resist:-) Hopefully the pH stayed within the allowed limits
The soil is over 80% quartz sand anyway....I will soon find out whether the substrate is good or bad. I miscalculated as far as temperatures go. The power-save lightbulb does not create much heat so the temps are even lower than I expected them to be. Night: about 4C and day: 10C. I guess this is too cold fot the tubers no? MAybe I should add small regular lightbulb to heat the air up a little bit. The thing is that here in Slovakia the winter came to a close but it is still cold outside (we have snow showers today). It should get warmer in 2 weeks or so.....
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Wow those are some beautiful pictures! Thank you very much for sharing! I love the droseras particularly! I am going to Brazil in May....hopefully I will take some pictures of CPs in the wild as well!!! THANX!
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Hi!
I recently received an order of tubers (thanx for the extras Spence!) and some of them were sprouting so I needed to pot them up ASAP (which I did today). I have a question about the substrate. I read somewhere (maybe it was here on CPUK some time ago) that classic peat/sand mix is too poor in nutrients so it is better to use other substrate.
So I used quartz sand
and I went to a brick company and dag out some loam soil they use for making bricks:
and also I used washed brick grit as topping for it is more porous than sand and the soil dries out more slowly....
For drainage I used ceramsite and the pots were 12.5cm deep:
The substrate is 70-80% sand and the rest is loam and even less peat.
I potted them 2-10cm deep (depending on size) and placed them in garage under 100W power cold light. The temperatures now are 5C (night) and when the light is on it rises up to 12-15C:
The lights are on for 8 hours a day.
Later (maybe in a month or so) when it gets warmer I will put them outside in the sun. Do you think this set up and potting mix will work? DO you think the same condition are good for seeds? THANX!
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Thank you Heather I will leave them like that for 2 months or so to see if they recover. Some time ago I had slackii repotted and it took her 4 months to renew growth (then it really took off:-)) so I am aware of the fact that some plants just need time to recover from stressful situations. I only consider the posibility of taking root and leaf cuttings in case the plant really looks sickly after 2 months or so.
Daniel O.: I only intend on keeping the foil on the top of the tank for now to keep higher humidity. I think it helps after repotting. You cannot see it from the picture but the tank is right next to semi-opened window. The temps outside are around 5C so the foil keeps the blowing cold air from entering the tank directly. I only cools down the inside air and part of it also gets inside (there are many perforations). When it gets a bit warmer I will remove the foil.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
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Absolutely stunning pictures! That must have been some expedition! I love the toilet-shaped nepenthes!
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Daniel O. : Great i just repotted them from peat/sand mix to perlite/live spaghnum moss mix........well i leave them like that now. I removed them from warm terrarium into separate box with strong light. I am going to give them night time temperature drop of 8C which they didnt have in the tropical terrarium before. Maybe that is the key. The setup looks like this:
..and the plants :
I was thinking if they keep on dying i will take some leaf cuttings. ut on this french forum it says that it takes several months to get new plants (if you are lucky). Maybe it is better to take root cuttings instead? Here is the link:
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Faunista: than you for your reply! Although I think there is nothing wrong with the my mix ...I will repot it just in case,,,use just perlite and live sphagnum, well rinsed to be free of nutrients and thus avoid algae occurence. I will put the light closer to the plant and I give it colder nights. No way she will die!
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Petr and faunista thank you so much!
You know I have killed a d. montana and d. ascendens previously and now d.graomogolensis looks so sorry for herself
. It is very frustrating when after reading all available info about how to grow them you think you have the conditions right and then instead of thriving the Brazilian girls just keep on dying. Faunista: for substrate I used high quality litvanian white peat I use for other CPs with no problems. Maybe i should still repot it in perlite/live sphagnum mix?
About the light,,,,,this one gets 100W of cold white light from a turbolightbulb placed 25cm over the plant.
Faunista could you specify the conditions in your highland terrarium? (I mean humidity, air movement, temperatures..?) THANX!
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Hi!
I recently swapped some drosera graomogolensis. I potted it into peat/silica sand (80/20) mix, well rinsed with distilled water. I placed it inside of a plastic container with perforated top. It gets plenty of light and the temperatures are 22(day) to 18(night). The soil is topped with sphagnum moss and the pot stands in water. The humidity is over 60%. The plant was doing fine for few days and then the new leaves stopped unfurling completely and the tips turned black. Here is what it looks like now:
I have no idea why the plant is complaining:-( Could anyone who grows this species successfully give me a piece of advice? I would hate to lose this drosera...
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I found another use for for the aminoacid mixtures. Additional artificial nutrition helps the heliamphora plants to develop roots after division. Sometimes even one single rootless pitcher can be successfully transplanted to a new substrate and develop a new plant really fast. I think that the plant with the absence of roots gets needed nutrition via leafs before she develops her own root system. Of course after trasplanting the heliamphora "leaf cutting" it needs to be filled with water permanently and be put in high humidity environment. I dont know how fast and successful method for heliamphora propagation this is without the use of AA but I think I got many plants pretty fast. (1st picture: september 10, 2008; 2nd picture: same plant after non-uniphase multiple division today). 2 plants are missing (sold):
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I wasnt able to find an equivalent product for "neem oil" in our hypermarkets nor shops:-(
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i'd still give it a chance to come back from the roots, but it does look like it's toast. Normally, dormancy will come into play when it gets too cold or too short of a photoperiod. I haven't heard of them going dormant in high temps/photoperiod. How long have you had it in that pot? Top-watering every month to make sure minerals don't build up. I've had a dew die-off because of high salt content that built up at the top of the container.
droseraman: well this is why they both went dormant in the first place: i have had them for over 2 years , growing them in a small terrarium on the campus. I had to leave the dorm for 2 weeks and my roommate moved the light 10cm away from the plants. So the decrease in light intensity triggered the dormancy for both plants. One I repotted and now is doing well. The other one I hesitated with and died. There was nothing for the plant to come back from , dry leaves , no roots whatsoever....typical goner. I use R/O water so I dont think minerals are an issue in my collection. But thanx for the tip I will top-water plants once in a while:-)
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TimC: you were right after all..... i tried to repot it today and i found out it is a goner
Dont know why she died. At least I have the other one left........ good thing i repotted it when it was not too late.
tuberous drosera substrate
in Drosera
Posted
UPDATE: I have a question. The weather here is beginning to look like the spring one...finally (God that was a long winter!). So I placed the pots with tubers outside to get some sun. To my sincere joy I doscovered that Drosera whittakeri ssp. aberrans is waking up (and also D. menziesii ssp. menziesii-but is too small to take picture with my sh.tty camera). Others are still sleeping. So since some started active growth I began to sprinkle some water on the substrate. My question is about the temperature: during the day it is 10-17C so it is ok but at night we still experience 1-4C sometimes. Are the growing plants in danger if I leave them outside 24/7? Thanks:-) Some pics:
detail:
(I hope for some flowers soon:-)