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dudo klasovity

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Posts posted by dudo klasovity

  1. Hi there!

    I have been using mostly Gelrite lately for its transparency and easy detection of potential contamination (my working setup isnt ideal;-).

    It is a bit more expensive but you only need about a 1/3 of agar amount and also it is easier to set the pH, which is very important (less impurities).

    Good luck! :-)

    • Like 1
  2. I have often wanted to try this genus for artificial propagation because as normally short-lived plants, they would theoretically seem to propagate very fast under aseptic conditions.

    Even when I got my hands on some very fresh seeds, the set back has always been insufficient sterilization of the seeds, because of the surface. As with gemmae of pygmy sundews, the surface is not smooth and even though I have been able to get rid of fungal contamination, the bacterial growth was killing the seeds in most of cases. (I dont use ATB).

    And when I overcame this problem, the second hurdle was to make them germinate in a reasonable period of time. The success rate with GA3 was 50% for me (not ideal, but sufficient)

    When they are in vitro, aseptic and germinating, the rest is simple and you can just watch them grow on 30-50%MS and propagate well without the hormones.

    They are beautiful plants with amazing flowers! :-)

    Out of the jar, but still in the gel (Byblis aquatica):


    In substrate:


    Hope this helps to anyone willing to try them:-)

  3. ..and here I add some pictures of today, mostly new cultures:

    drosera falconeri, still without root system, but flowering already


    drosera montana var. montana "Botumirin'


    drosera sp. 'Auyan Tepui' on semi-liquid gel (some dews grow much faster this way)


    drosera madagascariensis. Don't know how or why, but I never get this species right nutrition-wise. Always get a pale plants like this. Growing well though. Even with excess of Mg and Fe they look like this. Perhaps sensitive to some element/compound? Not sure.


    My favourite and in my opinion very elegant plant, the drosera ascendens from Caminho do Mar


    germination of seeds of drosera cistiflora 'Nieuwoudtville'


    drosera regia


    a newcomer, very nice hybrid drosera ascendens x drosera schwackei


    sarracenia leucophylla from Perdido


  4. Dear CP growers!

    Past 2 weeks I have been deflasking and started to acclimatize many sundew species from in vitro.

    Most of them grew well in various tested nutrient media, some test have been performed with hormones and with colloidal silver. Of course, some were lost in research and there are still many hurdles to master some species;)

    Here I would like to share several pictures with you.

    drosera aff.petiolaris "pin cushion form" x drosera ordensis in vitro


    For some species finally I got the right composition for inducing the tuberisation, here the tubers of

    drosera rupicola "various flower colours"


    Deflasking and acclimatisation of d.falconeri, d. hartmeyerorum, d. rupicola, d. zigzagia and d.kaieterurensis


    Laboratory acclimatisation of d.mannii and various lasiocephala sundews


    Laboratory acclimatisation of d.pulchella "Salmon flower", d. closterostigma and d.capensis "Baines Kloof" and "All Red"


    Greenhouse acclimatisation of d.affinis, d.ascendens, d. burmannii, d. sessifolia, d.sp."Pretty Rosette", etc


    Greenhouse acclimatisation of d.admirabilis, d.camporupestris, d.ascendens, d.esterhuyseniae x slackii etc


    Fully acclimatised d. hilaris


    If the weather continues to be so nice, they will be hardened in 2 weeks time, hopefully.

    Hope you liked the pics:)

  5. They dont go dormant in the real sense, but when you dont give them enough light/warmth they tend to die on the surface and then recover from roots when it gets warmer. Therefore very deep pots are an advantage when growing them. Also it is good to keep the substrate only slightly moist during the dormancy.

  6. Very nice plants, Maurizio!

    Has the d. hilaris ever flowered for you? I have been growing some amount of specimen for 2 seasons now (adult plants) and they grow very well but never produced a flower stalk. I wonder what the trick is about making them flower.

    Thanx for sharing the pics! ;)

    • Like 1
  7. Hey thanks Dani,,for pointing out the location typo,,I have corrected it;)

    Marc- I use the regular thin foodfoil and after placing it over the jar, I wrap the brim in parafilm. Normally I use one layer. For jars that are placed in the fridge (temporary cold stratification) I use 2 layers (with alcohol spray in between), because the air volume contraction is significant upon cooling and one needs to prevent the suction of contaminants from the air.

  8. As I was going through some jars I have sown seeds in recently and also some subcultures and took some pictures. Hope you like them:)

    drosera stelliflora


    drosera regia seedlings for starting a culture


    drosera kaieteurensis


    drosera hirticalyx


    drosera hilaris


    drosera falconeri



    drosera venusta 'Albino form'


    drosera ascendens 'Caminho do Mar' seedlings


    drosera afra


    biblis aquatica seedlings


    drosera mannii (shoot initiation from gemmae on hormones)


    drosera closterostigma 'Mogumber'


    drosera ascendens 'Airuoca'


    drosera sessifolia


    drosera hartmeyerorum


    sarracenia leucophylla seedlings


    drosera camporupestris


    germination of drosera natalensis


    part of the jar section


    • Like 1
  9. The fastest contamination I have had was in 2 days. Fungal contamination is very fast. Bacterial contamination takes a bit longer to appear, sometimes weeks. I agree with the above-said fact that sometimes the contaminaton doesnt show for months and then can spread suddenly for no reason and destroy the jar contents in 3 days completely. Sometimes the contamination is hidden and thwarted by PPM and other chemicals and can expand after replating to different medium. It is advisory to check the jars on a daily basis for the first 5 days after production. Then it is okay to check every 3-7 days, but that depends on amounts of jars and free time, of course:-)

  10. Marc S.: For tuberous drosera 20%MS might be not strong enough, especially if you also only have 20% content of microelements. Also only 1% sucrose is quite weak solution, they would do fine but you would have to replate them inconvenently often. I use 35-50%MS (100%micro) and 2.5-5% sucrose). More sucrose and longer light periods can help iduce tuber formation. Germination can be quite tricky because most of the tuberous species, a pre-treatment with sterile solution of some giberelin is needed. (For d.menziesii and d. peltata varieties the solution of NaOCl would do the job). Good luck! :-)

    Dieter: If I recall correctly, the seeds were provided by yourself, so if you'd like some plants just let me know;)

  11. Very nice TCing. VFT is a great starting plant because it is very forgiving and can be successfully propagated following various sterilisation and medium composition protocols. The tap water is sometimes better (for routine propagation) than R/O or distilled water, because it can contain micro elements that plants can benefit from. R/O or distilled water is advantageous when you want to have the composition of medium strictly determined (e.g. in research). Keep up the good work :)

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