jesse

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jesse last won the day on April 22 2013

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  1. D. regia is a not too complicated plant. You can keep it the same as other South African Drosera like D. capensis or D. aliciae. BUT: D. regia will surely NOT FLOWER the next season, if winter temperatures are too high. I got my D. regia early in 2012 and it flowered! The previous owner has kept the plant in a heated greenhoure before. Since then I kept my D. regia warm, temperature never falling below 14°C in winter, I think. And my plant never flowered again, not in 2013, not in 2014 and not in 2015. So winter temperatures should surely be below 14°C, to make the plant flowering in spring. And I think your climate table shows too high temperatures. Wellington SA is located at an altitude of just 100m ASL, but the natural locations of D. regia are more located at 700 m ASL I think. Easy rule: The higher the altitude, the lower the temperature. So with a typical temperature gradient of -0.65°C per 100 meters, you will not see 10-16°C at the natural locations, but you have to substract 6*0.65= circa 4 degrees for altitude corrections, and this means: +6°C daily low to +12°C daily high temperature in the coldest winter months. If temperatures are too high during winter ==> no flowers next season (that's what I get) But you surely CAN keep the plants warmer (with more light), if you never want flowers. Flowers of D. regia are very nice. They are much different from the flowers of all the other Drosera species.
  2. The website owner seems to be a forum member here: http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?showuser=4242
  3. U. Sandersonii is not self-fertile. If you want an Utricularia species that is spreading like a weed in all your terraria, self-fertile and generating lots of seeds, try U. subulata. But be warned: Once you have it spreading in your collection, you'll hardly get rid of it any more! And watch out which form you get: Some clones of U. subulata produce cleistogamous flowers nearly all the time. You never see any of the yellow flowers, but you get lots of seeds spreading around in your plant collection. Other clones (at least) produce many nice yellow flowers.
  4. Drosera regia can grow from root cuttings or from roots of plants with all leaves already died. See: Leaf cuttings never work with D. regia (they are much different from other Drosera species), but root cuttings from the thick roots work. Perhaps if you find some living roots, use some living Sphagnum, drenched in water and soaking some fleshy roots with good lighting? BTW: D. regia is not a tropical species, it is from South Africa near Cape Town! Please look up a climate table of Cape Town about summer and winter temperatures day and night. D. regia needs temperatures much lower than room temperature in winter. When always kept at room temperature, D. regia will never flower. They need colder temperatures over winter, or they never flower. Always room temperature should be OK, if you want no flowers. But D. regia may die on too high temperatures for too long duration.
  5. I think your plants are much too green because of two reasons: - too little light by day - too small temperature drop at night The required light to provide a good red coloration is proportional to the average temperature your plants get. For D. aliciae I'd say: Temperature in summer: 26°C by day, 16°C by night Temperature in winter: 20°C by day, 10°C by night The higher the average temperature, the more light you will need for a good reddish coloration.
  6. For easy LED lighting solutions to grow some plants I simply use white LED floodlights in IP65 casings. For lighting a 100x45cm growing area perhaps 3* 20W floodlight, light color "cold white", such like eBay 311428311155
  7. I am growing mainly two species of hardy Pingucula that create winter bulbs during the dormant period in winter: 1. Pinguicula macroceras ssp. nortensis ==> requires acidic (pure peat) substrate 2. Pinguicula grandiflora ==> not picky about substrate, thrives in pure peat as well as in alkaline substrate containing limestone. Until now I could not manage other species of hardy Pinguicula to thrive as well as these two species are thriving in my mini-bogs. But as I have heard from growers where I obtained my P. vulgaris, they should grow in pure peat and in limestone-mix. Unfortunately they do not very well here in my garden in either substrate I tested. Some of the hardy species seem to require alkaline substrate, such like P. alpina as well as the long leave species P. longifolia and P. vallisneriifolia. I don't have much experience with them, they all are died out in my collection. P. alpina is not an easy species in cultivation. And I think that P. longifolia and P. vallisneriifolia cannot withstand such low winter temperatures that my area gets in some winters. I don't know about P. vulgaris, I never could make them thrive and had little success with them in any type of substrate. If you have problems with P. vulgaris, perhaps try P. grandiflora. For me P. grandiflora is a much easier growing species than P. vulgaris.
  8. I've taken a photo that shows how my P. grandiflora are looking as of today in their 20-litre mini-bog. They are cultivated outdoors all year round: In potted cultivation (13x13x13cm = 5x5x5 inch pots) the development of P. grandiflora winter bulbs is just finished these days and the leaves are vanished already. Possibly you repotted your P. grandiflora during the growing season, if they went dormant much too early in the year? Repotting of winter hardy Pinguicula during the growing season is definitely a no-go! Repotting of P. grandiflora is only allowed at one time of the year: When they are in winter bulbs just before the new growing season starts. That's the time after the last seasons roots have died and before the new seasons roots are starting to grow. That's what I'm doing: When the main winter frosts are over in mid February until early March here in Northern Germany, I dig out the P. grandiflora winter bulbs, remove weeds from the mini-bog, remove gemmae from the bulbs, then replant the winter bulbs and sprout the gemmae for the next growing season. Then I leave the plants untouched for the whole growing season until the main winter frosts are over next year. If you keep your plants against their natural growing cycle, so that the winter bulbs and gemmae develop by the end of July or early in August during mid summer, it will be unlikely that the plants will survive the next growing season. No matter what you do after the accident has happened, to get P. grandiflora winter bulbs in the mid of summer. P.S.: Portugal maybe provides too warm climate and too little frost in winter for keeping P. grandiflora successfully. Perhaps you better try with some hardy Pinguicula species from Spain instead? In my area I have problems with Pinguicula species from Spain, I'm guessing that my winter temperatures fall too low (down to -20°C sometimes).
  9. I don't think so. The so called "coco peat" is no peat at all.
  10. I keep my P. macroceras ssp. nortensis in very cheap "pure peat". Not the highest quality blonde peat like used for Drosera, but the cheaper and darker sort of peat which is a bit more degraded. While most cold-temperate Pinguicula absolutely need or at least tolerate calcareous mix, I think that P. macroceras ssp. nortensis must be kept in lime-free substrate. So I use just a cheap sort of peat only.
  11. This one lost the race for being the first Pinguicula species in my garden flowering this year by two days (P. macroceras ssp. nortensis): Typically, malformed flowers with this species appear at the end of the flowering season and the malformed flowers always have less than the normal count of petal lobes. But this malformed flower at the very early start of the flowering season has developed an extra petal lobe. Can you see the single "bunny ear" lobe waving for Easter? I never had seen any of my Pinguicula with such an extra bunny ear petal lobe in the last years.
  12. Wow! Very nice and strong P. alpina! I had three small P. alpina once upon a time, but each year they appeared even smaller than the year before and after three years of cultivation all three were lost. Something in my outdoor cultivation conditions does not fit that species, I suppose. The first flower of my temperate Pinguicula is a race between P. grandiflora and P. macroceras ssp. nortensis each year. This year, P. grandiflora has won the race for the first flower.
  13. I think pushing winter hardy Pinguicula with too high temperatures is not the best idea, Plants that are thriving much too early in the year will start building their winter hibernacle much too early in the year, too. When the hibernacle is much too early during summer, the temperatures will be much too high. If the temperatures are much too high, the hibernacle will use much too much from its saved energy for living. If the hibernacle uses much too much of its energy, the hibernacle will die before next growing season. So one thing leads to the other when temperatures for hardy Pinguicula are too high. Small plantlets grown from gemmae are a bit more tolerant to extending the growing season a month or two. But if you exaggerate too much by thriving P. grandiflora with high temperatures early in the year and try to extend the growing season over more months than natural, you will get into big trouble with the plants during the next winter resting period. Most likely. This is how my P. grandiflora are showing up today, grown in outdoor cultivation near Hamburg, Germany. Winter hibernacles with gemmae: Be careful with high temperatures for cold hardy Pinguicula. Keep cool!
  14. I don't know what a "lightwave" is, but perhaps your plants are cultivated at too high temperatures? P. grandiflora is a cold hardy species. In their natural habitat, temperatures in March should be like that: - nightly low: 0°C (average in March) - daily high: 12°C. (average in March) If you keep your plants at much higher temperatures, I'd not be astonished about disturbance of growth after some time. I keep my P. grandiflora outdoors all year round.