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Everything posted by Bojahnik

  1. The pollen of this hybrid was from Klaus Keller. Here is a photo of the motherplant N. (thorelii (d) x xTrusmadiensis) I got from Exoticaplants. Clone 1: Clone 2: Clone 3:
  2. Here are some pix of my own cross Nepenthes spathulata x albomarginata (black). Unfortunately I can't remember who sent me the pollen: First a pic of the motherplant: Clone 1: It's a boy: Clone 2: Clone 3: Clone 4: Clone 5: Clone 6: I'll update this thread when I've got some more fotos of other clones.
  3. ok guy ... just proof that the rajah seeds you are offering are from breeders else this offer is not legal. N. rajah is appendix 1 else it is harvested from cultivated plants. As long as you won't proof that the seeds are taken from cultivated plants your offer is illegal and everyone is buying your stuff is also doing illegal things. That is no fun what you are doing here.
  4. The theorie is that plants grown under blueish light (above 5000 Kelvin) get the best colours but for N. lowii and its hybrids I have got some doubts.
  5. I also thought that more blue and stronger (like sun vs. artificial) light is the reason for a more red colouration. That's why I started this thread.
  6. hmm ... that's a very different lightcolour than the 2000K.
  7. I think that shading is only needed because of the temperature factor but not as shield of too strong light. Nepenthes (and most of the other carnivors) are pioneer plants and are used to full light. The sun for the highland plants in nature is much stronger than our european lousy sunlight or even artificial light.
  8. Over the last years I noticed that lowii or lowii hybrids pitchers got deep red under my 400W highpressure sodium lamp with the standard 2000 Kelvin lamp. The same plants produced in the greenhouse under full sun quite pale pitchers compared to the pitchers I got in the winter in my basement under the hps with 2000 Kelvin. I've got another hps wich I run with a conversion lamp 7000 Kelvin. Also 1 m distance grown lowii hybrids got pale like those in full sun. ???? ... I'm nuts? No here are some photos to visualize what I'm talking about: N. x briggsiana: pitcher grown under full sun: pitcher grown under hps with 7000K conversion lamp (additional a vent x ephippiata): pitcher grown under 2000 Kelvin: N. mira x lowii: grown under full sun: grown under 2000K: complete plant with both sorts of pitchers: N. lowii x truncata: pitchers under 7000K: pitchers under 2000K: Well ... do you see what I mean. A well known phenomena is that mirabilis var. globosa get the most red pitchers when they are grown very dark or even buried. While red leaves are the result of bright sun: I haven't got a pic of this buried pitchers but a deep red leaved globosa which was grown in full sun. So the sun turns the leaves red but not the pitchers!?
  9. Bojahnik


    ... still some of the pollen left. Now male bongso (carunculata) var. robusta is starting to put out the first ripe pollen.
  10. A few plants in the greenhouse. Briggsiana (Marabini) burbidgeae x stenophylla truncata x (northiana x spectabilis (this will be for sure a nice hybrid when maturing) bongso (carunculata) var. robusta lowii x truncata in the shadow the pitchers aren't so nice coloured Angraecum sesquipedale - thanks Darwin a historical orchid - read here for some info Hoya carnosa: It got quite cold here and the plants had to be moved in my basement room. It was time for renovating it and I'm a Noob if it comes to handwork but I got it finished somehow ;) After the electricity bill from last year I had to reduce my growrooms from two to one room. So I installed the second 400 W hps also in the room. I run it now with lightning 2 x 400W hps 2000 Kelvin and 7000 Kelvin (sunmaster conversion lamp) - each is working for 9 hours - both are overlapping 6 hours - at all 12 hours lightning. So I save some power and give the plants a better lightning also: sibuyanensis x x trusmadiensis - sweet marble from a cutting sibuyanensis x x trusmadiensis - mature pitcher: maxima (dark) x x trusmadiensis
  11. Bojahnik


    I've got pollen available. Right now is pollen of my sibuyanensis x hamata (?) ready and in a few days of mirabilis var. globosa. The sib x hamata BE-3166 is quite unsure for the hamata part. Nevertheless a very nice plant:
  12. omg ... thanks for the excelent fotos of majestic plants. The last one could be N. x kinabaluensis (villosa x rajah). The peltate leaves are most certain rajah influence.
  13. Your plant looks like N. xDyeriana which is (northiana x maxima) x (rafflesiana x veitchii) . It isn't without any doubt burbidgeae x edwardsiana. Here is a photo of my burbidgeae x edwardsiana.
  14. We have reserved a moderated carnivorous channel on IRC (quakenet). channel:"#carnivores" server: For access via webbrowser just visit Type for Chatroom "carnivores" and add your nickname and real name (if you want). Else you can download an irc client (I use mIRC but if you use a comprehensive client such as this its well worth taking some time to find out about security related issues in the same way as you would with a browser). Whichever client you choose it will ask you to select a connection or will allow you to type in a connection address. The "carnivores" channel is operated on QuakeNet IRC servers: and any connection with QuakeNet in its title will work there are many connection addresses you can find on the net but I usually use two alternatives: - Once connected join the carnivores channel (usually by typing /join #carnivores however this can vary from client to client). cheers Boris
  15. I had to repot some of my suratensis seedlings and was a bit surprised of the size of the tuberous roots. Still wondering which pot I should take now.
  16. Bojahnik


    Hi Milos, I use since nearly two years now cocopeat EC <0,4 and had no probs with it.
  17. WOW! Congrats for such a talented girlfriend. This is superb! On the left I see a raff upper.
  18. wow ... great stuff ... this veitchii x boschiana is really a beauty All others also!
  19. Many thanks for the comments! This mira x lowii made me really wondering. Here is a pic of a pitcher from last winter in the basement.
  20. Weather gets frosty here and my plants had to leave the greenhouse this weekend. Again for months no sitting in the sunflooded greenhouse and enjoying the plants while having a cup of beer. I was a bit afraid that I won't get all the plants back in the basemen because some of them had some good grow this summer in the greenhouse. Having them seperated I took the chance for some photos of a few of them. One of my very few newbies this year: N. burbidgeae x edwardsiana (Malesiana tropics) Just repotted in spring: N. thorelii (d) x truncata (Exoticaplants) N. lowii x campanulata (Exoticaplants) pitcher before with lots of exudate. Insects got really attracted by this and the pitcher was good filled the often discussed N. eymae (Wistuba). I really like it what ever it is. N. sibuyanensis x xTrusmadiensis (Exoticaplants). The basals started developing in december 2009. N. mira x lowii (Christian Klein) after 6 years waiting the first flower (male) for my N. ventricosa x xiphioides (Wistuba) in the basement already totally nuts my N. spathulata with over 20 flower stalks: Goodbye old trusty friend
  21. Right it was taken out just for hours several times and not days. So it shows that it is possible but I also have no idea how many days it'll keep viable after having been defrozen. That were fresh collected flowers which weren't dried. Just airsealed stored in the freezer. I think collecting the pollen and drying it and then storing might be also a point to discuss. I think the collecting and drying method is not needed if you send the pollen to other european countries. I got and have sent the fresh flowers without any probs inside europe. If you sent the pollen from europe to asia it has to be collected and dried before because else it'll mould on the long and hot journey.
  22. I also think it's very usefull to number the clones. Btw ... I already have used pollen which I took out of the freezer several times and refreezed it without problems. My last try was now 8 months old truncata pollen and the pods seem to develop fine.