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About wadave

  • Birthday 08/14/1973

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  • Location
    Perth, Western Australia
  • Interests
    CP's, bonsai, and riding my Harley
  1. Hi Ron, I've just sent you a PM regarding my success rate using my conditions but for the benefit of everyone else, I get over 90% germination rate. I think the secret is a combination of fresh seed straight off the plant, overheard watering, loads of fresh moving air and a cool winter period. I also get germination during winter but the vast majority of the seeds tend to germinate early to mid spring for me. Dave.
  2. Hi Ben, I'm so envious of your cobras, I can't seem to get mine to last through the autumn months where our Perth weather fluctuates between low 20s and high 30 deg C. It's the large temp fluctuations at this time of year they seem to hate so much. I get them to live through summer ok, even though they look pretty rough and ragged but as soon as autumn swings round they seem to fall over pretty quickly. Why is it always the plants we can't grow which are the ones we love more than the rest???? Kind regards, Dave.
  3. Hi guys, I sow my seeds onto a mix of 50:50 peat perlite mix as soon as the seed is mature and ready to fall away from the flower in mid to late summer here in WA. The seed then spends the summer in moist conditions in the greenhouse all the way through winter until spring when it germinates quite well. I don't give them any special treatment other than plenty of air movement over their dormant period which is late summer, over winter till the start of spring, plus being kept moist, never on the tray system. So long as they're fresh they have a very high germination rate, I don't put my seeds in the fridge, I put them straight from plant onto the soil. From what I've seen in their natural habitat the summer is warm to hot but the soil remains moist due to slow moving moisture from winter rains moving through the soil towards the coast from low lying swamps and streams. I think the secret is aerated water, warm conditions during summer with plenty of air circulation and cold winter temps, though I'm not talking frost or snow like conditions as the SW of WA generally doesn't experience sub freezing temps, especially as most of the ceph range is coastal. The SW of WA also gets relatively mild summer temps, when Perth temps exceed 40 deg C Albany can have temps around 20-25 deg C with rainy conditions. I hope that helps. Dave.
  4. That looks fantastic and once you have mature plants spilling over the sides and down the spiral it will look mezmerising. Have you thought about a design similar to a strawberry pot where the plants have their own little "balconies" and the center of the pot contains the soil so overhead watering gives all the plants an even amount of water? As technology becomes more mainstream and the printing of objects becomes more easily available to everyone this type of "designer" pot will become cheap and easily available I'm sure growing cephs this way will become easy for the average grower as pot designs are easier and cheaper to create. I find that hand watering my cephs overhead in a pot which allows the water to flow through the pot gives my cephs a chance to grow well with plenty of water and oxygen flowing past their roots. This year I have at least 15-20 seedlings poping up and I currently have around 15 flower spikes coming up in our Australian spring with more flower spikes emerging all the time so every year I look forward to experimenting with conditions to see what is most favourable for my ceph growing. Good luck with your designs and I look forward to reading your next report on how your early desing is progressing. Kind regards, Dave.
  5. it looks pretty healthy to me, if it was the new leaves then you'd have a problem.
  6. wadave


    Hi everyone, I've had great success with sowing ceph seeds right after the seeds matured on the flower scape at the end of summer. They spent the winter out in the greenhouse so they got nice and cold in our Perth winter, nights down to 2 deg C, and I kept the soil nice and moist. They germinated nicely during spring time and came as a very nice surprise as I'd completely forgotten about them. I've done the same with this years batch of seeds, and as we're coming into our winter here in Australia I will keep an eye on them to let you all know how they go. This is the second time I've sown my own seeds so I'm still learning, though I've had my plants for quite a few years now. Dave.
  7. I've had worms move into the pots in my greenhouse and I find they do eat the peat. In my opinion their digestive systems would release the nutrients from the peat and after they excrete what's left I'm sure if you allowed it to build up it would affect the plants. But seeing as the average repot for a cp in a pot is every year or two it's not too much of a problem. In a bog over a long number of years this could be a problem if you have a large number of worms. It's just my opinion and I can't verify it though. I guess, as others have mentioned, you could watch to see what happens over time and if they do start to show signs of stress you may need to do something about it. Dave.
  8. Hi Brian, Until I saw your last post I was convinced it was not a LW as it's coloured very differently to mine, and I imported one directly from Brooks a few years back and mine are identically coloured to those in the link you posted on the 8th. The first photo looked to be very much whiter with a richer red colour and I wanted one....but as you say it definately is LW and so I will have to see if different light conditions will get a nicer red colour on my plants. Regards, Dave.
  9. Hi all, Thanks for your feedback. This has happened ever since I repotted them 2 seasons ago, this year will be the 3rd growing season in the same soil mix, I've used 50:50 peat, perlite. This winter Perth had the coldest cold snap on record with the longest number of consecutive days below 2 deg C night temps. Nothing below freezing though. My sarras loved it, showing nice strong healthy spring growth which seems more vigorous than I've seen before. Perth gets cold enough temps for long enough that my sarras and VFT's, pings etc go through at least or 4 more months of dormancy, so that shouldn't be a problem. I just had a thought, do VFT's dislike calcium in the water? My VFT's are starting to emerge from dormancy now so it will be interesting if they grow bigger this year or not. Another thing I just thought of, when I originally repotted them I had them sitting in a weak solution of superthrive to keep the roots wet while I was dividing up my plants and washing their old roots and removing the old dead traps. Dave.
  10. Hi Mantrid, I get that, my sarras do that too so I guess a better quality question is how do I stop them dividing and put their energy into growing nice big traps? I will repot them into their own containers to see how that affects their growth, though my thoughts were that if they grow nice and big in the wild with lots of room to grow their roots then surely they would do that for me in a nice big pot???? Yes, we've launched into spring here in Perth, Western Australia and everything is putting out new growth which I just love to watch daily. I just love how fast sarras grow and it always blows my mind how over night they can go from nothing to a flower stalk poking several inches out of the soil when it seems like there was nothing there the day before. Anyway that's a differnt topic. Is there anything you know of that actually causes vfts to divide constantly? Cheers, Dave.
  11. Hi everyone, Ever since repotting my VFT's into a large pot all they've done is grow smaller and divide, divide, divide until the whole pot is full of small plants. I had them in the same environment for a few years in their original small pots where the plants were almost pot bound and they grew nice big traps every year for me but after putting them in big pots they've gradually gotten smaller over the last few years. Does anyone else have this problem or know what causes it? They're healthy little plants, no diseases, no pests just much smaller than they were a few years ago and they love to divide. Cheers, Dave.
  12. Could it be the production of flowers is triggered by day length and temperature ranges which are similar in spring and autumn? I have always found my sarras will produce flowers in spring and autumn, though far less in autumn. Dave.
  13. Hey everyone, I have often wondered about what effects the rotting remains of dead traps and their contents has on the plants as far as providing organic matter and nutrients to the soil. As things break down and the nutrients enter the soil the question is do sarracenia benefit from this or are their roots simply there to stabilise the plant and draw moisture? I don't think it would be silly to assume the plants do take up some nutrients but how much are their roots able to absorb? Are they like some plants in the Australian bush that are designed to rapidly and effectively abosorb what little nutrients exist in the empoverished soil to the point that an excess of some nutrients can be poisonous? We all know that putting sarras in soils with standard fertilisers will kill them....perhaps their roots are very good at absorbing nutrients from soil, or could it simply be that their roots don't have a strong osmotic pull and soils with high levels of salts prevent the plant from absorbing water? Dave.
  14. Hi Mike, Thanks for taking the time to share all those photos with us. It's one of my goals to visit cobra country to see them in the wild for myself. In the mean time I just have to make do and satisfy my desire to see these amazing plants with posts on this forum. Kind regards, Dave.
  15. Thanks for that awesome report Andreas, It's always a pleasure to get to see how the various plants grow in their natural habitat. In one of the shots that shows the yellowish white clay of the soil it reminded me very much of the kinds of soils found in the hills of South Australia where I grew up. I wonder if these plants would do just as well is South Australias hot dry climate? regards, Dave.