andyinsuffolk

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Everything posted by andyinsuffolk

  1. Heck Nigel, That was quick!! Best Regards Andy
  2. You can get hold of tuning forks pretty easily on Flea-bay. I bought a "set" for £11 only. It contained 5 or 6 different frequencies. I started using the 250Hz fork but this didnt seem to work very well at all so I then switched to the 510Hz fork and the pollen flew out in huge quantities!! I have put the spare pollen in small open tubes, standing in a bed of dessicant beads, and then in a sealed tub, in the fridge. Stored like this the pollen remains viable for up to 12 months. Good luck all. Andy
  3. Hello, I have had both in cultivation for many years now. I treat both of them the same, which involves growing them in an unheated greenhouse, which regularly gets frost bound each year, using the tray method as per Cephalotus. I think S. caespitosum is one of the easiest sps to grow in our UK conditions. Frost hardy. flowers every year. Robust. Hope this helps? Andy
  4. Yeah, those N.lowii were quick to germinate and with a high % germination rate. Same for the N.vielliardii seeds. But alas nowt from the rajahs yet!! I am awaiting some fresh .N.lavicola seeds right now so that might be a nice one to try. 15 years is nothing!! Isn't it???!! Only 14 years and 10 months to go then! Andy
  5. Surely its worth having a go yourself??!! Thats half the fun...hoping for success but half expecting failure!! There is no shame in failure. How can you win or lose if you don't run the race?? I have just had masses off N.lowii germinate...but none of my N.rajah!! If it was easy everybody would be doing it!! Besides, how are you going to keep your surrogate seedlings alive and well if you don't already have the right cultivation conditions in place for Nepenthes?? I am now using a mix of supersphag and vermiculite having moved away from using finely chopped live green sphagnum moss which ultimately over grows the seeds/seedlings. Fortune favours the brave Party Gecko!!
  6. Hello Girls!! Whats been going on here then??!! Apologies for not getting involved sooner but have been away on business to the Seafood Expo in Brussels - part of the "day job". Firstly, many, many thanks to so many CPUK Forum Members who tipped me off that things were getting heated - its been frustrating not being able to respond or even to find out what the problem was!! So...Ledge Bay doesnt exist (according to the Thead title)??!! Thanks to those who have pointed out in this thread that it does! So I guess thats that cleared up then??!! Special Well done to Marcus B for recalling that Allen Lowrie once sold these seeds!! I can confirm he did....and I bought some! I reckon it was back in sometime around 2003-2005??? I remember phoning him up and having a long chat with him about these seeds ....and a very interesting chat it was as ever with Allen! Ceph seeds werent that frequent on his Lists so when I saw them on there, I just had to have a go. The name on the seed packet and in the catalogue at the time was.......drum roll.......Ledge Bay, WA. And I am pretty sure that the word "Giant" was on the pack too...which is why I then transcribed all this info onto my seed pot label over a decade ago. I then sowed the seed....nature then grew the seed.....and I now have a healthy, mature plant that I only know as "Ledge Bay, Giant"....so thats what I called it! No intention to mislead....apologies to anyone who feels they have been, or is still offended in any way. I certainly trust Allens labelling descriptors 100% and have no resason to doubt anything he told me, then or since. A couple of years ago I took some leaf pulls from my mother plant grown from this seed and one of them is for sale on ebay now. Its called C.follicularis "Triffid Ledge Bay Giant" and I think thats as good and as accurate a descriptor as I can give. In terms of the use of the word "Giant", well thats what I had originally labelled it up as over a decade ago, but in reality the pitchers of my mother plant are indeed bigger than most of my other other ceph clones including my Slacks Giant, Hummers Giant and German Giant!! So, I think I am entitled to call it, or continue to call it, "Giant", arent I?? Hope that this brief explanation is acceptable? Cheers Andy
  7. Hi All, I have been following this thread with interest. Just so you are all aware, all the traceable Triffid Albany Blacks that I have sold/parted with since they were first released have been supplied with a Unique Number which is known to the owners of genuine clones only. If therefore, you have any doubts about the heritage of your Triffid Albany Blacks, go back to the vendor and ask what this unique ID number is. If you then email me via my Triffid Nurseries email address, I will be able to check through my records and hopefully, validate the fact that you have a descendant leaf pull from a genuine TAB clone. Hope this helps. Cheers Andy
  8. Hello Ian, I am sorry that you feel mislead. Richard is correct, in that you can only get the true clone by division or leaf cutting. The seed you have bought is taken from a genuine Akai ryu clone which I have pollinated using pollen from another genuine Akai Ryu clone. However, in botanical circles this is NOT an acceptable way of propagating the true clone. For example, although I did the pollination by hand, with a brush, perhaps a Bumble bee flew into the polytunnel the day before (when I wasn't looking) and pollinated that same flower....with pollen from another VFT clone? You just cant be 100% sure, and so you cant be sure that the seed offspring will therefore be 100% pure. People on this Forum know I have never any intention of misleading anyone, but the rules for Botanical nomenclature and propagation are what they are. So glad that the seeds have germinated well for you, but your seedlings are indeed Akai Ryu X Akai Ryu... most probably....but perhaps Akai Ryu X Wacky traps, or Dracula, if a pollinating insect got to that particular flower before my paint brush!! Hoppe this explains things a bit better. Good Luck and Kind Regards Andy
  9. Hi Daniel, No offence taken I assure you. Thanks for your kind words. Stay handsome! Andy
  10. Hi Daniel, Thats fair enough. I have been growing Cephs for just over 28 years now and I can confirm that this is no "fake". Its a very real, living, very dark coloured Cephalotus clone that I have been growing for a number of years now and is a plant that I am particularly proud of. You certainly won't have seen this particular plant around before (unless you have visited Triffid Nurseries in recent years) since I have never sold one, nor given one away before. Alot of growers guard their favourite plants with a passion!! I am no exception. Finally, I have no wish to mislead anyone. Never have done. Never will. Kind Regards Andy
  11. I too am interested to see what this sells for. Daniel G. Why are "alarm bells" ringing? Please explain. Andy
  12. Hi Martin,

    Thanks for getting in touch - I hope you are well.

    I am afraid I had no success at all.

    I would like to try again though. I would like to buy some more if they were avialable.

    Kind Regards

    Andy

  13. Hi Martin,

    Thanks for getting in touch - I hope you are well.

    I am afraid I had no success at all.

    I would like to try again though. I would like to buy some more if they were avialable.

    Kind Regards

    Andy

  14. Hi, Usually I send out all plants 'bare-rooted' however in some circumstances I just send the whole pot! What you are seeing here is the result of 'blow-ins'. These are seeds from other species of cp that have blown in from the seed heads of neighbouring Cp's grown in the near vicinity of your D. binata 'Small Red Form'. One of the most usual 'bow-ins' is D. spatulata however they could also be juvenile D. capensis, aliciae etc. These blow ins are pretty hard to avoid I'm afraid but if you are so inclined, you could always de-pot them and give them a life of their own. I hope the Small Red Form is doing well for you. Very Best and Good Growing! Andy [ quote name=Mujician' timestamp='1303422462' post='296955] I wonder if anyone on here has bought one of these recently? More specifically from Triffid nurseries. I did and I've discovered there are at least two more sundews in the pot with it. They are very small and definately not a binata. The leave form a rosette. If anyone has any ideas, that would be great. Unfortunately, I can't put pics on here due to the fact I'm using my iPhone and my laptop won't connect to the Internet :-(
  15. Hi Tricky, Glad to see that you got some interesting plants from our seed!! I have checked my records from back in 2007 and I can confirm that there would have been a good deal of Open-Pollenation taking place on those plants. We were in the process of getting ready to relocate from Devon up to Suffolk so it was all abit hectic planning to move over 10,000 pots of plants! Anyway, just to clear up one other point you mention "someone said that Triffd Nurseries get their seed from Australia".....yes we do, and from Malayasia, USA, Ireland, Canada, Germany, Holland etc etc, but all from long-standing and trusted Suppliers/growers. However, 99% of the Sarracenia seed is harvested from our own plants! Very Best to you and Good Growing Andy
  16. Hi Hayden, I can see that you are really keen (which is great to see!) and that you are monitoring your seeds hourly by the looks of it! Most Cp's are bog plants so its pretty hard to drown them however the risk, as you know, is drying out. You have chosen VFT seeds to have a go at so its important that once sown, the seed tray does not dry out. Keep it standing in rain water a couple of cms deep. This will keep the bottom of the tray saturated and everything above the water line will gradually become less wet as the height above the water level increases. This should ensure that the surface of your soil (on which your seeds are sitting waiting to germinate) will remain damp - even in the hottest UK summer weather. Even if your tray water does accidentally dry out, because of the water retention properties of the sphagnum moss peat, the seed tray soil will remain damp for a good 2-3 days and wont harm your seeds or seedlings. You will easily be able to tell if things have got too dry though! The soil will change colour (much lighter as it dries out), the soil will shrink away from the sides of your pot and the whole tray will be very light and easy to pick up simply because the weight of water contained in the previously saturated peat is no longer there! This would be bad news - certainly for any seedlings! So, I hope that this gives you a bit more to go on and that your seeds germinate well for you. Good Luck! Andy
  17. "The guy who runs it is lovely" You are making me blush LJ!!!! In order to further clarify our VFT seed situation, I have adopted your excellent suggestion and have ammended the website accordingly. My intention was never to mislead - many apologies to anyone who feels they have been. Kind Regards Andy
  18. Hello, Thankfully for our hobby, NOT all seeds germinate as easily and readily as D. capensis!! This is what makes the challenge of germinating CP seeds so interesting - the multitude of different things we have to do into trying to convince each seed "now is the time to germinate". Unfortunately, this means lots and lots of failures, but even bigger thrills when it works! In terms of Byblis, some species are easier than others to germinate, (you dont say which sps you have tried) nevertheless, I always pre-soak my Byblis seeds in a saturated solution of both GA3 and Smoke Water for 48 hours before sowing. I get good germination % using this method. Hope this helps and stop banging your head!!! We have all had more seed failures than successes!!! Kind Regards Andy
  19. I just wish that the photo of the D. erythrorhiza ssp. squamosa 'Sand Growing Form' did it justice in terms of the the red colour!!! It really is as near to a 'beetroot red' as you could get!! Its stunning. (The rosette is about 6cm in diameter for htose who want an indication of scale!) Andy
  20. Hi Everyone, Big Thanks to those of you who have made such positive comments about our latest Homepage. I have set myself the challenge of adding new photos every month for the 'Triffid Now' section and hope that this will help to keep everything 'Live'. Hope everyone is having a great growing season. Good Luck All. Andy
  21. Hi Jim, A Polytunnel is an alternative growing house to a greenhouse. Its made of polyethene and tubular steel instead of glass and aluminium. Kind Regards Andy
  22. HI Jim, I have 3 sps flowering at this moment. All my sps are being grown in an unheated Polytunnel. All have survived unheated through a particularly rough winter. Got down to minus 5 IN my polytunnel. All are being grown on the usual tray system - rainwater only. I do allow the water to dry up before re-filling though. Other than that, really nothing special. All the Best Andy
  23. Hello, I currently grow 12 diffferent sps pf Stylidium but recently sowed the seed of a further 30 species! I soaked all the seed in a saturated solution of Giberellic Acid and also added a Smoke Water Paper disk as well to mimick the bush fires etc in its natural habitat. I sowed the seed as I would most 'normal' CP seed using a mix of sphagnum moss peat, grit sand and perlite. Alot of the seed trays are now showing signs of germination (thats 4-5 weeks after sowing) - I am hoping that the others will show signs of life soon! Hope this helps!! Andy
  24. Hi, Stylidium grow naturally in very similar environments as Cp's so any standard CP soil mix works well (and the recipes above will be fine) however I find that the addition of extra sharp sand helps. ( I currently grow 16 Stylidium sps. btw) Hope this helps Andy [uote name=JohnP' date='10th April 2010 - 08:43 AM' post='266799] I've got Stylidium debile growing in 2 parts peat , 1 part sharp sand and 1 part perlite.
  25. Malathion - never fails!!! Make sure though that you allow the insecticide to get right down under the the folds on the rhizome. Andy