Jump to content

Bruce

Full Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bruce

  1. Hi Jimothy, In my days as a propagating gardener, we grew a few Mangos as "Indoor Shrubs" If I recall the best compost we found was equel parts loam/peat. and it deffinately needs stove house conditions and misting if in a dry area. I dont remember them ever flowering (let alone fruiting) but they maske attractive plants none the less. Thinking of where they were placed they were in areas that were light (but not full sunlight) to light dappled shade. Bruce
  2. It was many years ago, when in the amenity sector, ie had access to commercial products, when I used hormones, the products at the time contained the fungicides. Have not bought any for 20 years at leat so cannot comment on the current analysis. Looking at my previous post it was in the current tense when it should have been in ther past tense!! Bruce
  3. As gotcher states they contain certain fungicides, a fact I should have stated in my earlier post, hence the reason why I find them useful and successful for the wellbeing of the "other end" of the cutting!! Bruce
  4. Some great vft's there. Also, that obviously makes 3 of us with floppy sarras!! Bruce
  5. Like Aiden I have used them on Pelargonium cuttings and also fuchsias and they deffinately reduced success. Also, as a Glasshouse Manager, for 10 years, in the past I found that no plant showed a significant improvement in rooting after using hormones However, one use I have founf for them is that where you can cut a stem off a plant where the wound is large or damaged if some rooting powder is applied to this the wound heals quicker with a less likelyhood of infection. Bruce
  6. I was always losing Ceph plants. Then changed from using plastic pots (which it appears according to your photo you are using) to clay ones (about 6" dia), also do let the saucer empty of water before refilling (mainly because I forget to refill!). Using these to methods the compost does not get to wet and the plants look healthy. They are in a greenhouse which recentlyt has got up to daytime temps of 80F. Bruce
  7. I have noticed in the past that certain Mexican Pings (cyclosecta being one of them) do have a tendancy to shrink/or be in a state of dormancy when they have got competition from moss etc on the soil surface. I used to put peat in the Ping soil then but found that by removing this and growing in 1:1 vermiculite:perlite (occaisonally I may add a some sand to this!) the moss is less likely to appear and the plants grow well providing they have a daily misting of water, in fact my growing conditions are almost the same as yours. Maybe carefully removing the moss (obviously being careful not to disturb the plant to much) will allow it to grow on better. Also I have found that cyclosecta leaves often root at any time of the year so any leaves that come away need not be wated!! Bruce
  8. Bruce

    Kew

    Just noticed this thread. And, here goes "Whops forgot again!!" Mind you does not look like I was the only one. Worrying thing is I knew I had somewhere to go on that day, but for the life of me could not think where. Judging from the photos looks like a good time was had by all and as usual the plants wre superb. Bruce
  9. Bruce

    Slee-ping!

    Just to complicate matters further. I have two grandifloras, which are in pots next to eah other. One is definately still producing leaves and the other after looking closely seems to think it is winter!! Bruce
  10. Dear All, My method of growing Mexican Pings, which does not differ greatly from the "European method" in this message thread, is as follows. in a frost free (about 8C min in winter!) greenhouse with natural light. The plants are in gravel trays (about 2 ft square) that contain a bed of Hydrolica. From lateish spring onwards each tray is given half a gallon of water, this only just reaches above the surface of the hydrolica ans soon lowers anyway and the plants are given a spray (at least once a day!) of water overhead. In autumn winter as growth slows they are dried out completely, though they may get an overhead spray occaisonally (when I remember/can be bothered). Then when growth resumes the summer treatment restarts. I used to keep them wettish all year and found that flowering only took place early in the season. However, with the current regime flowering continues through out the summer. Bruce
  11. Hampshire would always be my first port of call if I wanted a plant that they sell. Also, they are so enthusiatic about CP's, just go to any show where they are exhibiting you just cant get away from their talk!! Bruce
  12. Bruce

    Is it carnivorous

    Thanks for confirming my beliefs Stephen.
  13. Bruce

    Is it carnivorous

    In our local newspaper last week (I had meant to post this message earlier!!) A gentleman wrote in to say he had a tall (7 ft) Dranunculus vulgaris (Dragon Arum) in the report he mentioned that it was carnivorous, also in the report was an expert from Oxford University who never contridicted this fact. Is this plant carnivorous or not, I had always presumed that the fact that the flowers are foul smelling was to attract flies etc to aid polination rather than as food. Best Wishes, Bruce. PS. If it is a carnivore then I ought to add it my growlist together with an outstanding stand of Shepherds Purse I have just noticed in the garden here at work!!!
  14. A very impressive set up Rolf and so inspirational I must think about setting one up myself. At least it will free up space where suitable plants are at present, all I neec to do is find room for the terrarium. Bruce
  15. It is true that no nurseries stock peat (except one that stocks that 'orrible sedge peat stuff, and I would not wish that on my CP's!) One garden centre, that sells "garden centre style" CP's when I asked if they had any peat said no and I said that you sell plants (CP's) that require it answered by saying that if they require lime-free conditions they could be grown in ericaceous compost!!! Bruce
  16. I know the feeling, there is not a nursery in Oxford that sells peat. Good job I can order it through one of our suppliers at work!! Bruce
  17. Heather thanks for posting the question on how to deal with the G.hispidula seed. I too was a lucky winner and was about to ask the same question. Also, many thanks Rob-Rah for putting us both on the right tracks as to its germination. Bruce
  18. For both alpina and longifolia I have had success with a mix of 2 parts orchid bark, 2 parts peat and 1 part perlite although I have "planted" sphagnum on top. They are in fairly tall pots I suppose 6 or 7 inches tall and 4 1/2 or so inches in diameter. I had tried pure sphagnum in the past without success, It is not my most successful growing media (but that is probably down to my methods!) and this other mixture just happened to be available at the time of a new purchase of an longifolia! They are watered by the try method. Best Wishes Bruce
  19. Good healthy plants Andy. Yes I too have the same problem with the indentifucation of all red plants, although I am getting better! Bruce
  20. I wish I knew. Mind you I spelt the "word" three different ways in that post!!! Bruce
  21. My Red Dragon is looking fine despite a recent repotting (in 3:1 peat perlite) however my "Royal Red" is struggling as is one just labelled "Red leaved". I have reduced the water table on all my VFT's and have stadnardised on the 3:1 copmost and placed them in the sunniest part of the greenhouse. I have however started an experiemnt with a collection of "typical" plants in that compost, pure sphagnum, shagnum and sand, sand, spagnum/perlite and peat and one with a covering of shagnum on the 3;1 mixture as I too have had toatl success in rooting plants in sphagnum. Will let you know the rsults in the near future Bruce
×
×
  • Create New...