venusflytrapman

What kind of light do they appreciate?

Round here if there is a bog you're going to find it. It grows thinner than other sphagnum and likes dryer conditions. There isn't really any CPs to be found in it. There are also cream ones with orange tops, bright green ones, dark green ones, it has a lot of species the place I visit. I find the moss in ditches dug out probably thousands of years ago where the water has collected and formed a bog in such a way that it is only about 2ft across but stretches right along the side of a reservoir. If I knew so many people liked sphagnum so much I would have taken some photos, I'll do that next time I go if you like.

Yes, Atlanta is more humid. Closer to sea level you see. For a highland truncata, I would have a lower day temp, because it will save you plenty of money. I keep mine at about 23/24c and I am growing all my neps and orchids very well in there. If you have a lowland terrarium, you could also put it in there. It really doesn't have much of a difference, these plants don't seem to even know that one lives on a mountain and one lives on the ground, and from what I have read people have had good results with their highland truncs in lowland conditions.

I remember reading that very fact sheet acually. I found it very informative, and is mainly what inspired me to cultivate it to grow things in.

Yeah, a lower night temperature simulates their natural conditions better, and the air saturates whith water very easily, but I find 15c fine. I get about 80% rh at night, and that should be good enough if lowlanders need between 85-90%, and highlanders can do better in less rh, and as my own rule it must be over 70% at night. As I am speaking my greenhouse is just behind me and I have managed about 65% rh for daytime and my new truncata has been unfurling its leaves and growing its pitchers etc. They are really hardy plants, I wouldn't worry too much about that. There isn't really a need to do anything unless you have such dry air that all humidity is lost after opening the greenhouse for a second.

They should be nicely emerged by about the end of next month, with maybe a couple of leaves, but if you want to see them properly I suggest you see them in the summer time. Although there is the possibilty that cold meltwater will still be keeping them in dormancy for a while longer, but I doubt that.

This reminds me, I'd better write my new blog. Great pictures, thanks for showing us the timeline, I appreciate them :) .

I have only just had my first signs that winter is ending up here, so it is still going to be a while for me.

I used the calculator, and you will get roughly 625 days out of it. About a year and a half, you were right.

At first your sarracenia looked like it was dying!

Is the plant young or old? Such deformities often happen in small plants.

Are those petiolaris complex drosera? They have the same growing conditions of dionaea?

Or just use a dog. Dogs don't tend to dig things up unless they are trying to achieve something, and to stop any chance of that happening get a Jack Russell, they hate water, and dogs don't tend to damage your plants even if they 'help with watering'. Or as Fred said stick to the net. Do your plants ever catch crawling insects on that island? Just a thought if there is any that live with carnivorous plants (I don't know if they would be able to sustain themselves). By the way, is that some form of utricularia in the bottom right corner next to the sink?

He's got him! Haha. Great pictures there. I think I might try doing that, but instead of a picture sequence, a time lapse would be even better. However, my drosera that aren't dormant don't have much dew on the since facing the horror of incandescent lights .

At the moment I am on this site, so that's where I am.

I expect that you cut them back a lot? The one to the far right on the first picture is really bushy, it looks great. Is that hookeriana?

Your jokes are great but you should take it seriously. All I said was toilet roll.

What happened to my last post? Anyway, I have had the paper/carboard out for a few days now and it hasn't moldered at all (and I know that compost and such will mold quicker than that). I would say that it doesn't look to shabby at all, the toilet paper goes almost see through on the bin liner, as does the kitchen roll that I used on the upper floor of the terrarium. The heater has a sufficient blow of air to keep the bacteria from staying in the same place for too long. You probably have to give the terrarium a good mist before you start using it, but once it gets going it is fine, because the condensation just drips down of gets sucked back into the paper at night when it is cooler. However, if you wish to carry on with your puns and such, please, someone lock the topic. If you can't find it any good a method, so be it. I find it good, and that is all I am saying.

Yes, it was a whole month's worth of thinking. Anyway, in my eyes, it is a job well done. Well worth it. It doesn't look vulgar at all, because condensation on the sides just makes it look the same anyway. I have started with the cultivation of sphagnum, so that will help as well. It was just an idea, I was desperate, and didn't want to have to spend much money. I probably will switch to sphagnum when I have enough of it, but at the moment it does the job.

If you don't want to spend loads of money on humidifiers, I have a solution. For a month of hard thinking I have finally found that wet kitchen roll on the floors of your terrarium and a few of those carboard centres of toilet roll with a little bit of wet toilet roll wrapped around it really aids humidity. I have got mine up to about 80% with it, and it is still going up as far as I am aware. Beneficial to the environment and your pocket .

Inverted colour, that's great! never though of doing an inverted colour photograph of a CP.

This colour temperature, what do you mean by that? Is the white one supposed to be the one to use, I have seen a lot of them, or am I thinking of something different? I think I may be on the verge of solving this one! By the way, what happened to CPUK over the past few days? It seemed to stop working.

So you are saying that I could have just used a striplight? They are so easy to get! Unless you are talking about something else, it is unlikely that it is going to be that easy.

I can't put it outside because it will just be too cold for neps. It is really supposed to be for growing plants that are less fussy about their temperature e.g. carrots and tomatoes. I think I may have found a light that will work, it says it is a linear halogen bulb. It is 4200 lumens, so only 1000 lumens off real light, although there was another one that was 8500 lumens but that is probably going to be far too strong. I just can't work out how to plug them in, as they have ends like this: http://www.bltdirect.com/images/categories...r-117mm75_1.JPG I am completely clueless, I have never seen a bulb that has ends like that before .

I got my outdoor greenhouse (that I keep indoors) last week . I was wondering, however, how to plug in a light that is going to be suitable for lowland neps. I can't find any of the lights I would prefer, so could I just use a fluorescent light? I am trying to keep it as cheap and as chappy as I can, but right now I can't even find the right light. Probably the best light I am going to get is a fluorescent 60watt bulb from B&Q, will that do? I want to sort this whole thing out once and for all.