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Everything posted by Dicon

  1. I have two mature flowering plants, male and female and they definitely seem to prefer highland conditions particularly with a cap to upper temps of around 25C it enjoys higher humidity combined with good air movement. Pitchers do become taller as they mature (younger rosettes produce squatter pitchers) Uppers are rare but if the vine is happy it will produce one or two each year. the potting mix must be free draining and open and the plant needs space to bury its tendrils for best pitcher production.
  2. I agree with Mark, some can be kept if really careful with watering, but the bical in particular will just stop and decline unless conditions are hot and humid.
  3. Hi Kiwano this plant is most likely a hybrid involving truncata. N.truncata does not have speckled pitchers.
  4. Dicon

    Cutting with flower

    Linda is male so it wont take so much out of the cutting as a female flower spike would, but if I were you I would cut it off to allow the cutting to establish properly.
  5. Fred I think "falling on the garden totally unnoticed" was a song by Benny Hill !!?
  6. tried mine in highland conditions where it grew ok but is much happier warmer, mine is a good size and pitchers well. and I have found bright light better for pitchers.
  7. Mark gives sound advice, nothing will give you 90% humidity 24/7 and you won't actually need it that high. sonic humidifiers are not very efficient. If your budget is tight, just use damping down techniques while you save for a Hydrofogger They are simply the best thing you will ever buy for this job!, I have used them for about 10 years. If you incorporate multiwall polycarb into your build from the start, this will repay the cost within a year or so from fuel savings and will actually help increase humidity levels if sealed properly.
  8. Fred you might be better off with treated timber as self applied treatments just don't penetrate so well. See if there is an agricultural supplies company near to you, they sell various timber sections for agricultural fencing, and farmers are that tight that they have to be cheap.
  9. Dicon

    Disa plant pots

    Nice to see Disa species...................beautiful !
  10. I cant see any Mealybug either, possibly some aphid? As stated above use tried and tested chemicals only. The 18in burn risk only applies to aerosol propelled sprays............to my knowledge only one version of provado is sold this way (this version also controls red spider mite)
  11. yeah mine flowered and then promptly rotted off...............nice plant
  12. Hi B Welcome to the forum. It looks like the growing tip has died, but this damage occurred 3 leaves ago, it may have been lack of water that caused this or possibly fungal issues. I would just trim the dead leaves to make it look better. The side shoot will most likely take over, but you may find another dormant bud near the old tip will sprout too. Consistent growing conditions are key with Nep growing, so just keep doing what you are doing and it will settle in.
  13. not for me, read the above, tried the suggestions, still get the empty post message! and no quotes. edit (as this one worked) .......after several attempts and my repeated efforts getting nowhere, my posts just get shorter and shorter until I just cant be bothered. Content seems to be dwindling on CPUK, could this be the reason?
  14. I think this looks like typical sibuyanensis. argentii is hairy, and the cross (that has not been recorded in the wild) does not look like this either.
  15. Dicon

    Nepenthes argentii

    i think your night temps will be too high. you will need to provide lots of air movement too. it is tricky, maybe you would do better with glabrata, although, whilst it grows naturally alongside hamata, it too would still prefer it a bit cooler.
  16. well assuming they are softwood, the best thing would have been for them to be vacuum treated, this would give a life expectancy of about 10-15 years, however unless you can get your uncle to swap them or take them away again and have this done, then your best bet would probably be a clear timber-jack type treatment but whatever you use you must make sure it is applied thoroughly and that it is completely dry before contact with plants. Definitely get them vac vac treated if you can.
  17. I think it is the opposite, I have noticed this in overly wet positions, it seems like a kind of damping off problem to me.
  18. LIV Supplies is the company I use also, the cut to measure service is excellent with no charge for waste and they also tape all the edges up with the proper tape and at no extra cost. Cheapest I have found.
  19. You keep saying this. Do you actually have any useful information to share with us? Maybe you could update everybody's knowledge with something positive!
  20. multiwall polycarb expands +-3mm per M. The companies that supply the products will also supply all you need to fix it following good practice. All polycarb comes with one side uv protection and a removable film to identify which face goes outside. It is the same with any product, it has to be installed properly. there are special expansion washers used to point fix and the snap down glazing bars have the appropriate seals and expansion allowances built in. there is no problem with big sheets as long as the rules are followed. Use fixings for timber supported structures. If you look at my thread http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=45597&hl= you will see how I have used polycarb, and if you see the pics of my temporary housing, you will see a timber carport with a 10mm roof. Polycarb is easy to use lightweight strong and insulating, you could not possibly build the kind of structure you have in mind with glass. if you follow good practice it will last beyond the 10 year guarantee.
  21. 4mm is too flimsy and will blow away or cave in. You will need at least 10mm, trust me on this!