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About PlantaCollector

  • Birthday 03/25/1988

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  1. Hi, 

    Do you offer only single plant of each or do you have more for sale?

    Maybe we would be interrested on more plants.

    Thank you.

  2. hello, are there any lowlands or hybrids available that work in terra with lowlanders?

  3. Hi all! I will be very thankful for identifying and recommending treatment for my Nepenthes - I suppose it is a kind of fungus. Yellow spots appear on the leaves which later turn almost completely yellow and then brown, being quickly destroyed. What fungicide (or different treatment) do you think will be best suited? Thanks a lot in advance!
  4. I agree with François, too. Nice plant and nice photos.
  5. Really nice terrarium, Ben What kind of lights do you use? Best regards Juliusz
  6. I once almost lost a specimen of H. folliculata due to overwater. It looked like a dead, so I left it outside of a terrarium and after that I completely forgot about it. It has been staying alone for over 2 months without watering or something else, but after then a new shoot appeared, giving an amazing sign of still living plant! Heliamphora sometimes can be an unbelieveably hardy genus. So if a part of rhizome is alive, it is still a chance. However, it might take a very long time.
  7. When I was keeping my heliamphoras in these conditions (humidity about 70%) they lost many leaves. I think it would be better if it was increased.
  8. In my opinion the soil and temperature are good, but humidity should be higher (at least 80% and more). Did the pitchers start to brown from the tips or the base of plant?
  9. I agree with Ben. H. elongata is slow grower, whereas H. folliculata is really fast. I have it (H. folliculata) for 5 years and despite of many mistakes I have done in cultivation, now it is large mature plant (25 cm pitchers in height) which have already flowered. Even H. heterodoxa I have for the same time is not as vigorous (have only 10 cm pitchers).
  10. Hi everybody, I am going to try tissue culture of Heliamphora. I know it might be difficult (or even very), but I decided that it will be my project for a biology contest, which could open the way to university. Therefore it is really important for me and I will be very grateful for any advice. Ok, now let's return to the main topic. The species I will try to micropropagate is H. heterodoxa. I am going to do it mainly according to the method described on www.world-of-carnivores.com with some tips from www.omnisterra.com and from www.sarracenia.com. However, because I did not find almost any information about TC of Heliamphora I will try similar technique to this one which is used for Sarracenia (www.world-of-carnivores.com/tcsarracenia.html). What do you think about it? Should it work if put small (few mm) fragments of rhizome in MS medium? Will it be OK if I use no additional hormones except these which are already in MS? Is NaDCC the best for sterilization? I have lot of questions, so it will be very helpful if anybody could share here own experiences. Thank you Juliusz
  11. It might be a name of clone. I have one H. nutans labeled as 'CF'.
  12. Thanks. Lighting: The smaller terrarium is placed on east window, larger - on west, so plants in both of them receive direct sunlight during few hours of day. Of course in winter is permanently light deficiency, so over the smaller terra there are two T5 fluorescent lamps, each 24W. First one is 865 model, second one - 840. They are turned on for about 4 hours in summer/spring and 14 hours in winter/fall. Within the month I will also buy tubes of this same kind for the larger terrarium standing on west window, but 80W each. Temperature: I don't cooling in the winter. However in summer I turn on fogger for night and morning when the smaller terra heats up and I open it partly. The plants are also cooling by air pump placed outside. In large terrarium I don't have fogger yet, so I can open it only sometimes - most often at evening. You can see that is not a real cooling - in winter temperature is about 18*C, but in summer 23*C and even more than 30*C during few hours when the terrariums receive direct sunlight. And at night temperature drops down only by 2 or 3 degree. Watering: The helis standing permanently in water (about 1 - 2 cm) and are sprinkled every evening. However I used to only water the plants (without standing in water) so I will be able to compare effects of these two methods Soil: Longfiber peat mixed with perlite and pinebark in proportion of 2:1:1 and covered by dried sphagnum moss. But in the future I will use only sphagnum with perlite.
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