Alexis

Most areas of Preston are high in TDS I'm afraid. Their water doesn't come from the Lake District like most areas of NW England. I would stick to deionised water, which you can get from most supermarkets.

Where do you live? If you're in a soft water area you can search your water quality on your water company website. It's usually listed as conductivity, which you can convert to total dissolved solids.

I suspect Ben was a tissue cultured plant. They tend to be a bit delicate for their first couple of years.

Very nice. Have you got water butts sorted?

Yes, the L43! It's a nice one :-)

Loads have popped up here in the last 10 days, even though it's been constantly raining and dull.

Probably sedge peat

A mild winter for us would be bitterly cold in Alabama and Northern Florida. This is what they're experiencing in the wild at the moment: https://www.accuweather.com/en/us/apalachicola/32320/daily-weather-forecast/405 Daylight is the important thing really. They're tough though, so don't worry about a cold snap in February or March, they'll be fine.

Hi and welcome! Make an effort to take a trip down to Shropshire Sarracenias in Telford on their open day in June (date tbc). You'll soon find your 18 sarracenia will have plenty of company!

Nobody cuts them off in the wild :-) Some clones hold on to their leaves better than others. Often they start to brown in spring when new growth comes (which won't be affected). Dormancy is often just suspended animation, not a complete die off. You can cut them down to the ground if you want, but anecdotally the following year's pitchers don't grow as big.

Dormancy can be a state of suspended animation with some clones, not a complete die back.

You can repot any time in dormancy, although I tend to leave leucophyllas until after Christmas. They'll still grow roots in winter, so whether they have two or three months in the cold to slowly grow roots, or 6 weeks in the warmth to quickly grow roots doesn't seem to make much difference.

I'd say it was pretty exceptional. Which is why I'd pay happily £20 for it instead of the usual £10!

Sound like springtails. Move a capensis leaf over to the flytrap and it'll catch them.

What are they potted in out of interest? Fresh peat doesn't usually grow slime

That's what Google says! Telford v Guiseley Whoever they are!

Yep

I like that one the best. A lot of red mooreis are too red and you lose the white or pink.

Starve them! In my experience the more they catch the less red the traps get. I can't see a single closed trap in the bottom photo. I suspect that once they have an optimum level of nutrition it's more advantageous to maximise photosynthesis, and open traps are more efficient for that. So they produce less red pigment so there is more chance of a trap remaining open. Also try repotting over winter if they haven't had fresh peat for a while.

I know, you never have enough room! Once everything has been repotted over the winter I can populate that end bench and maybe sort out a potting shed. I like the Melcourt, but I do like the higher water retention you get with peat. So after some experiments I've settled on this mix: 3 parts Melcourt Growbark Pine 3 parts perlite 1 part peat 1 part Kelkay RHS horticultural grit + a top dressing of just the Growbark

On top of the soil. Don't sprinkle anything on top - they need light to germinate.

Looking good. I think it's Ctenium Fields (I've got one from there as well)

I have a pubescent leucophylla x flava var. rubricorpora as well, so hybrids can inherit the trait.

Bear in mind some red tubed plants struggle to colour up if you cut everything off over winter.

Yep all good