Full Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jimfoxy

  1. 1) I am no botanist/taxonomist but my understanding is that F1 hybrids must be a result of genetically different parents. So you could call P. x 'Sethos' an F1 hybrid. A self pollinated P. x 'Sethos' produces seed that you could call an F2 hybrid but that in itself means nothing specific as it could refer to a hybrid between P. x 'Sethos' and something else (I think). Nobody in the CP world uses the terms F1 and F2 as there is little or no benefit. The "x" coming after a genus initial e.g. "P. x" just indicates that the plant is a hybrid (cross). To remove doubt, a selfed P. x 'Sethos' could be written as P. (x 'Sethos') x P. (x 'Sethos'). One can see how labelling can quickly go wrong when all you have is a little plant label to write on. This is why most growers prefer a numbering system and keep all the long naming on a computer spreadsheet, along with where the plant was sourced, and I would always recommend this. Then you just need something to make your numbering system reasonably unique e.g. Mike King uses the prefix MK. Hopefully, any younger (sorry Mike) serious CP grower with the initials MK would then choose a different prefix. Personally, I use JP for Pinguicula and JS for Sarracenia on my plant labels. Note that P. 'Sethos' is the same as P. x 'Sethos'. Personally I put a 'x' in whenever there is a hybrid for clarity, even if it is a named cultivar. However, I have a feeling this may be wrong, and I will probably be pulled up on it. But I cannot see the harm in adding a "x" with a cultivar name when it is a hybrid. Luckily there are no intergeneric hybrids in the CP world. 2) See (1). P. (x 'Sethos') x (x 'Sethos') or less specifically P. (ehlersiae x moranensis) x (ehlersiae x moranensis). It gets messy quickly. With things like Sarracenia that hybridize ad infinitum who is to say what a species is and what is a hybrid that has been back crossed with the same parent 'species' over many generations? We like to put things neatly into boxes with names because we like order but the natural world is rarely so neat. I believe the reason Sethos and Weser are so frequently mislabelled and misidentified in Europe is because certain Dutch wholesale nurseries couldn't be bothered to correctly label plants. Same happened with Tina=Hans. Nearly every CP grower at some point buys a plant from a garden centre, despite their best intentions (me included)!
  2. Rodrigo, the 'Weser' looks bang on but I have doubt about that 'Sethos'. Just checked your source; that 'Sethos' is listed as a "P. 'Sethos' selfing flower". So perhaps a self pollinated 'Sethos' seedling and not the true 'Sethos'? It does not look like 'Sethos'.
  3. I only do it since my sand issue. If you are not adding anything then it shouldn't change much, but it is so quick and easy just to take a measurement now and then that it has to be worth doing and it will help you catch any duff batch of media ingredient you might happen to use.
  4. It is nicer to call it 'culling'. It doesn't feel as bad as MURDER! I find it a horrible job full of indecision. I just can't bring myself to do it until absolutely necessary. Luckily, once I have thrown something out, I soon forget I had it! Are you able to describe what you look for, John, or is it just a personal thing? Do you wait until you have seen each one flower? With our rubbish Summer this year and last, I am finding it harder...
  5. Any that I can pick for my wife and not have her complain about cat's wee.
  6. I am forever pulling birch seedlings out of my outside bogs.
  7. The original slides show four flowers for Weser but not all are clear. Unfortunately, I don't have permission to make a public the high res photo. Can you describe what you would say was weird about it?
  8. Thanks - what happens when you click on the thumbnails?
  9. I change water if it starts reading above 100; but that is just an arbitrary preference. I find rainwater starts off at about 20-30. Good idea to get a TDS meter - the cheap ones are only about £7 on ebay. It made me eventually realise why a number of my sarras were dying; it was thanks to the 'horticultural grade washed sand' which had a massive TDS reading. I never use sand now for Sphagnum dwellers and wish Slack had never mentioned it! Always best to leave tap water to stand a day or so to help release chlorine just in case it is added.
  10. Here are the definitive scans from the slides that Adrian Slack (the man who named these clones) took of his plants and which were publicised in his book, 'Insect-eating Plants and How to Grow Them': http://jimfoxy.co.uk/sethos_weser.html
  11. I have had something like this before and was never definite about what it was. I threw the plant out eventually. In case it is a virus or something contageous, I would separate it from the rest of your plants and see how it goes. Maybe give the roots a thorough wash at the same time to see if there are any signs of anything bad going on down there, too.
  12. Try to resist buying clones from garden centres. They are nearly always weak and feable. I would recommend giving up on it and buying a decent clone from a recommended amateur or CP nursery. Greenhouse conditions in comparison with outside have made a huge difference this year. My outside Sarras are way behind while the ones in my unheated greenhouse are not far behind normal. The difference between them is much greater than usual due to the cold Spring and early Summer. I am in Cambridgeshire.
  13. I grow Tina in windowsills and the greenhouse. I do things a bit differently to Will. I always put a bit of John Innes in the compost (slow release fertilizer) or a bit of compost heap compost and/or a bit of leaf mould - something with a bit of slow release organic nutrient in it anyway, and lots of grit/sand/perlite and a bit of peat. I also use vermiculite without problem. My plants are strong and multiply like mad. The only time they are not flowering is about 3 months at the start of Summer. Also, I keep some of my inside Tina standing in water but only ones that are in big pots. Encourage springtails (good for food and churning up the surface of the compost). A spray with a foliar feed to the leaves now and again does no harm. Peat on its own is a bad idea. It is too difficult to control the water content; it is either saturated or bone dry. Think about how the plant grows natively (ok, this is a hybrid, but think about the parents' habitats). Mexican pings are very different to bog CPs (Sarracenia, Dionaea etc). The plants would naturally grow in places where they would encounter a bit of 'leaf mould' so I figure adding some of this makes sense. I do not think vermiculite is poisonous (not horticultural grade anyway) but I have read that it is slightly alkaline and does release some salts (so not good for bog CPs). P.S. Plants from garden centers are often half dead or in the wrong compost or been mistreated etc. I suspect that plants are stuffed in any old media that is the cheapest the nursery can find when they are potted up for shipment from the Dutch nurseries to over here. They survive long enough to be bought but are often kept in bad conditions in the garden center (often with hardly any light). The cynic in me sees that it is in their interest for the plants to last a while once bought and then die. Always buy from a specialist CP nursery or swaps/sales on this website when you can; you will nearly always get good growing tips and help, too.
  14. jimfoxy

    Crazy Lil Ping

    Lovely descriptive photos and plants.
  15. I love time lapse - always fascinating! Thanks for posting.
  16. Isn't it great seeing how they vary? The great difficulty I find is deciding which ones to keep! Nice plants.
  17. Bob indicates in red text the ones that look like the true cultivar. Yes, the two scans on my website are from the original set of Slack's slides, not the book. I remember there was more than one slide of each plant in the slide collection so the scan you see may not exactly match the photo in the book.
  18. No, the real Weser is around (or something that looks as close to identical as you can get). You will find it on Bob's photo page. The scanned slides I managed to accomplish last year from Slack's actual slide collection show clear differences in the flowers and they very well match his descriptions. If you have not looked at my web page for a year or so then have another look. Colour is pretty irrelevant; there are huge differences in the shapes of the white patches on the flowers. Some fake clones around can have flowers that look a bit like Sethos but I have not seen any that look particularly like Weser except for those which you could conclude probably were Weser. Your flower: Weser scanned from Slack's slide: A world of difference! Look at the narrow clean white stripes. Petal shape is also different.
  19. Flower it is then, as usual!
  20. My money would be on the fake Weser, too. Might not be, though, you being in the States. Where did you get it, Jim?
  21. See http://www.cpphotofinder.com/pinguicula-weser-3877.html and http://jimfoxy.co.uk/sethos_weser.html To date, I have never heard of the real P. x 'Weser' being sold at a garden centre.
  22. jimfoxy

    ID please ?

    Best first step is to inquire from the person you bought it off and see what they have to say about your question.
  23. It sounds like too much sun then! Leaves of some species do tend to yellow in the sun. Plants that do not get enough sun tend to stay darker green. Saying that, though, not all the plants you listed will go yellow in the sun. Most of those might do (especially P. cyclosecta) but laueana should take on a red tint. Also try a weak foliar feed spray onto the leaves every month or so just in case a dose of nutrients helps. Some examples of plants all growing next to each other in same light levels: P. cyclosecta getting TOO MUCH sun: Some garden centre thingy doing very well in the same amount of sun: P. laueana also liking the sun: Plants together:
  24. Sorry to double post but just read up on the rest of the thread. Will, have you ever tried a general fertiliser in your media? I use a similar mix to you but I use general potting compost instead of the peat which has a bit of nutrient in it (not much). I find the growth of the larger fleshier plants really takes off! But maybe this is not so good for the smaller, more succulent-like plants. (Probably the difference in nature is the growing habitat of course.) I think maybe the difficulty people report with repotting comes from the fact that the roots are very shallow; it is maybe not that the plants die, just that they fall out of their pots!