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About jimfoxy

  • Birthday 06/05/1975

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    Cambridge, UK

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  1. Here shows the problem. Using a formula for the media on its own is not the whole story. The conditions (humidity, light level, 'airiness', foliar feed or not, temperature (including extremes/variation), in Winter, in Summer, how much watering, etc) are what should accompany anybody's recommendation for growing media. Growing on a windowsill inside a house will have a lot less humidity than a plant growing in a greenhouse or terrarium. These plants do not have much in the way of roots. The environment above ground is as important as below. My guess for manders plants are left: north/east/west facing windowsill (foliar fed), middle: south facing windowsill (or shaded greenhouse), right: greenhouse (a little shade, little or no feed). Or thereabouts! Also, different plants have different preferences. They come from many different habitats; some grow on cliff faces, some in damp forests. Some are more fussy to grow than others.
  2. Mesh is great but you still may need some high up shelter to prevent heavy rain driving the seeds out of the tray/pot. You could put some type of board over but leave at least about 20cm air gap; too close and air movement and light will be restricted. Both these restrictions will encourage mould.
  3. Sow on surface of compost. Sprinkle very fine peat powder layer on top if you like to hide them. Wet compost from bottom of pot/tray. Put outside under shelter but with plenty of air movement and light. Shelter is just to keep rain off. Well ventilated part of a greenhouse is another good solution. If wet, wind will not blow them away. With overhead shelter rain should not splash them out. Cannot advise re children other than to put them high up, maybe (seed tray, not the children). Frost rarely does damage and can actually promote germination. If you keep them somewhere with no air movement and little natural light, botrytis mould is encouraged.
  4. I find perlite in the mix often dominates the surface and creates a relatively dry surface. My plants sometimes do what yours do right next to plants that are fine. The surface moisture conditions are very important as most plants have very little in the way of roots. I prefer a bit more organic material in the mix to promote this when growing on windowsills which have relatively little humidity.
  5. jimfoxy


    Just about anytime, really. But it is easier when the plant growth is a bit tighter (winter mode) though if flowering the flowers may cause the plant to topple over a bit. Any leaves that break off can usually be laid on the surface and may grow a new plant. Depending on your growing conditions, to minimise chances of mould attacking, early spring may be the best time. Beware that these plants have little in the way of roots.
  6. Could this be P. "Weser"? No.
  7. Well, as for a reason to remove flowers, anything that has flava as a parent is likely to stink of cat's pee!
  8. P. x 'Tina' can pull through a UK Winter outside if you are lucky. I never have enough room for them all inside the house during the Winter and my spares of these are the first to be banished to the greenhouse. Probably depends on dampness and humidity levels (linked to the media) but I have not studied it. London can be a little warmer than less densely populated places I guess, too.
  9. As discussed in another thread, it is a result of the late surge of insects this year. The benefit has been that we have had good looking pitchers for longer before this. I always have too many flies being taken every year for my liking (rotting pitchers very soon after opening and a stench of rot in the greenhouse). I keep telling myself to put fine netting up across the windows to my greenhouse but I have not got around to it yet. I intend to leave one or two manual operating windows without netting so I can control fly intake in the Summer but definitely want to net the automatic windows. I guess for the door I need a clear fly door screen - whatever those dangly things are called you see across grocery shop back rooms. The ecology inside a rotting pitcher is interesting. Often, maggots thrive for a while having hatched from eggs from dead flies, and feed on the rotting prey of the plant, speeding the digestion process I guess.
  10. A problem arises when you separate a small crown/division which happens to have produced a flower (when it was attached) from a much bigger rhizome. The division is not 'of flowering size' but has a flower.
  11. No, this usually does not happen if they are given humidity in transit and not exposed to high temps. The problem is, you never know what temperature range they will be exposed to.
  12. jimfoxy

    Ping. ID

    Too early to tell!! Certainly do not label it Sethos or Weser until you have seen and closely compared a photo of the flower with the REAL clones.
  13. 10p bet that it is P. x 'Tina'.
  14. What about perlite dust? That can't be good for you.
  15. I bought the older version on ebay shown by Phantom above about 3yrs ago and it packed up; possibly because I kept it in the greenhouse which was not really sensible with the heat. The LCD display lost a few segments so I had to start guessing. I bought the new one (as shown by Phantom) recently from ebay. For £7 or whatever, 3yrs life is ok for me. For CPs, you don't need much accuracy.