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Alex Kawazaki

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Everything posted by Alex Kawazaki

  1. The photo can be changed until the deadline?
  2. Hi Claudio, I'm sorry for the delay but I was traveling for work ... I made some photos of the small aquarium where I keep some of Aldrovanda. The tank where the bloom occurred... Last week, when I made the photo even had the last two flowers closing ...
  3. Hi Claudio, I will provide a photo of the aquarium, but remember that almost 40 flowers bloomed from October 2009 until today (autumn here already has begun and still has another bud is developing). Almost every week there were 1 to 3 flowers opening in the tank. Flowers open simultaneously occurred only 2 times. Once in January and now again in early April. The flowers remain open a few hours and already the next day, are bent back into the water.
  4. Thanks for the words of encouragement! Here, in my tanks, flowering Aldrovanda, there has been a rare event. Since 2002, when I received the first turions happened 6 summers with flowering (2003, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2009 and 2010). This year the number of flowers was amazing, to nearly 40 flower buds in my small aquarium of 27 liters (30x30x30cm). I believe a major reason was very strong heat did here this year.
  5. Wonderful shots!!! Nice plants! Amazing Drosera menziesii!
  6. Fascinating! Wonderful plants and beautiful photo! D. aff. stolonifera extraordinary! D. lowriei lush!
  7. My first pictures were taken with a compact camera Canon PowerShot G5 a few more close-up filters and also a 50mm lens adapted reversed ... My current camera equipment consists of a DSLR camera Canon EOS 40D, various Sigma lenses (105mm F2.8 Macro, 24-70mm F2.8 Macro, 70-300mm F4-5.6 Macro, 10-20 F4-5.6), an objective Canon 50mm F1.8, a Kenko 2x teleconverter, a Kenko kit of extension tubes, a Flash-Ring SIGMA EM-140 Macro and a flash Canon Speedlite 580EX II.
  8. Summer with record heat here in Sao Paulo / Brazil, and tanks in Aldrovanda with new flowers opening daily. Among the emerging flower buds of the flowering stem from 4 to 7 days, the tiny, delicate flower with the petals remains fully open for only 1 hour. In the days following the pedicel longer be bent and bud is submerged.
  9. For the photo, can not be absolutely sure (have a picture close-up of the traps affected?), but the algae plants Loakesy seem cyanobacteria, which can be treated with antibiotics. Erythromycin (please use the powder in capsules or tablets ground. Do not use syrups, chewable tablets or solutions!) at a dosage of 250mg for every 100 gallons of tank water, reapplying it every day dose for 3 to 5 days. After treatment change 50% water. The cyanobacteria should disappear within 1 or 2 weeks. The cyanobacteria have a somewhat gelatinous appearance and a strong smell of mold.
  10. Beetles and larva in Drosera capensis Bettles in Drosera spatulata Larvas in Drosera binata A larva suffering digestion...
  11. Hi friends, I was out for work excess and some problems of health caused because excess work... Without time to take care of PC, I accomplish losing some of the species... In addition here it was winter and PC were in dormency. The pictures that I posted there at the Brazilian forum are old, and many of them I had already posted here... Now that the summer arrived, the plants begin to be in the point for me to get good photos, and I am still going in Marcos Ono's greenhouse to see what he has of new plants... Thanks for yours kind words...
  12. Inspired in CPUK Forum, we are beginning a Brazilian community/forum (in Portuguese) about Carnivorous Plants... Inspirados no CPUK Forum, estamos iniciando uma comunidade(fórum) brasileira (em português) sobre Plantas Carnívoras... Click in the image below or use the link: http://plantascarnivor.clickforuns.net
  13. Hi Chloroplast, Unhappily I live in a small apartment... If I had at least a back yard, certainly would try cultivation in open tanks... But nevertheless I would maintain parallel cultivations in aquariums, for warranty against some eventual problem in the tanks ponds opened...
  14. Hi chloroplast, Here in Brazil, I have been cultivating my Aldrovandas (Poland) in the same way that I cultivate aquarium plants, or be... . Free from climatic bad weather, with medium temperatures from 20 to 33ºC; . Artificial illumination for fluorescent lamps (I use lamps Grolux and some day-light bulbs of 5500-6500K) in a total of 1 Watt of lamp potency for each liter of water of the aquarium; . I have Aldrovandas in aquariums with substratum and in other aquariums without some substratum and I have not been noticing a lot of difference in the growth of the plants for that, although aquariums with substratum tend to be stableer; . The peat, or the straws in the substratum, theoretically they would act with a preventive one against algae, because they liberate fulvic and humic acids that has a light action algicid. But I have not been using that not; . The CO2 injection I have been following the classic income of water+ ferment+sugar, and I note that the Aldrovandas benefits enough of this extra CO2. It is notable the difference among the plants in aquariums with and without CO2; . There are snails and snails... Depending on the species they can nibble yours plants, here in my aquariums I have neritinas, physas, trumpet and small ramshorn Snails without these have upset the plants; . As the feeding, I don't have concerned in supplying preys them, and they are going going well like this, occasionally I see some small snails, daphnia and seamonkeys (that give to the fish) captured in the traps, but they are very little and rare the captured preys, therefore the fish be much faster than the aldrovandas... . Nitrates and Phosphates is what don't lack in an aquarium with fish, because that is interesting, and very useful, to cultivate the aldrovandas with other plants of aquarium of fast growth as egerias and ceratophyllum; . I use a fertilizer of micro-nutrients regularly (trace elements) that is rich also in boron. I use Flourish of Seachem, that you find at any store of aquariums; . Avoid herbivore fish, like Goldfishs and Carps Same here in Brazil, Aldrovandas Poland, in the winter they enter in a stagnation period, without however they form turions...
  15. Hi Vic, I live in the city of Sao Paulo, in an area of sub-tropical climate to the south of Brazil, where them winter temperature arrives to the 10-7ºC... Therefore I think the dormancy phase owes if it processes more or less as there in Europe...
  16. Sarracenias... Sarracenia flava Sarracenia leucophylla Sarracenia purpurea ssp. venosa, red form Sarracenia rubra X Sarracenia purpurea
  17. Some pictures of my VFT... Dionaea muscipula (var. red shark :?: ) Dionaea muscipula, tipical form "Sensor hairs"
  18. Alex Kawazaki

    Aldrovanda

    Yeah, Dr.Adamec has been my guru in the cultivation of Aldrovandas! It was through Lubomir that finally got to obtain my first aldrovandas... I am vastly thankful to him for all attention and patience for me. Unhappily the turions of the Australian red varieties never supported the long trip of the Czech Republic here to Brazil.
  19. Alex Kawazaki

    Aldrovanda

    Hi Rocklizard, I don't have experience in the cultivation of U.australis... U.gibba are true weeds, they grow in practically any conditions!!! I have not been making use of the techniques of cultivation outdoor, because I live in an apartment, what forces me to use the cultivation in aquariums! If you dispose of conditions for the cultivation outdoor, you could use the techniques described by Vic...
  20. Alex Kawazaki

    Aldrovanda

    Hi Vic, Yes! In tanks already stabilized the outbreaks of algae are really less frequent... The humics substances liberated of peat and straws (of typha, barley, sedge,), besides they turn the acid water (ideal for Aldrovandas), really has a considerable action algicid... I consider these methods that you described how being, in fact, ideals for the cultivation outdoor, under solar light and great disposition of preys. In comparison with the cultivation indoor, the cost of an installation outdoor is really very much inexpensive, but as I live in an apartment am forced to do use of techniques for cultivation indoor, mainly because of the low readiness of solar light. The injection of CO2 (of the cultivation of plants in aquariums) it has been helping to turn acid the water of the aquarium (ideal for Aldrovandas) and to increase a little more the development of the plants. Under artificial illumination I never got to obtain the same beautiful red coloration that the proportionate for the solar light... I have been observing that the main points for us to obtain success with Aldrovandas are: .Acid water (for injection of CO2 or for peat or straws), .Intense illumination (solar or artificial), .Readiness of nutritional complement (preys or fertilization with trace-nutrients) and .Rigid prophylaxis, control and combat to the algae.
  21. Alex Kawazaki

    Aldrovanda

    Hi Baphomet, I have been obtaining success in the cultivation of Aldrovandas, using techniques already consecrated in the cultivation of plants in aquariums... Appropriate artificial illumination, CO2 Injection, Fertilization with trace-nutritients, filtration and a rigid control/combats to the algae... I tried to describe these techniques in the link: Cultivation Indoor of Aldrovanda vesiculosa You try to see their plants as simple aquatic plants, and not like carnivorous plants. Just with the mentioned techniques the plants will grow fully without the need of offering them preys...
  22. I also receive only a message about Apache server...
  23. You can see some pictures of U.humboldtii and of U. nelumbifolia of the Brazilian site Plantas Carnivoras do Brasil e do Mundo (Carnivorous Plants of Brazil and of the World).
  24. Hi George, Tons of light? Which the spectrum or temperature of color of the lamp? Here I am using fluorescent lamps of the type for horticulture (Grolux, Aquaglo, Nutrigrow) combined with lamps fluorescent light-of-day of 6500K Which the pH of this other tank? Here home, the pH is around 6. DK is also among 3-4dKH. My thermostat is adjusted for a temperature of 26-28ºC. I don't think can be for an excess of Nitrogen, because recently I had an outbreak of green filamentous algae when the concentration of nitrate of the aquarium arrived to the almost 50ppm; however the aldrovandas continued to throw big and vigorous traps. Maybe it is lack of some micronutrient... Do you use some complement / liquid fertilizer for aquariums? Do you make change frequent of water? I make weekly changes of 25-33%, because besides they remove the excesses of nitrogen and fosfate help still to restore some micronutrients... My aldrovandas rarely reach the red coloration, just the ones that are in a small tank outdoors...
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