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Posts posted by Numbersix

  1. Hi, red dots are nothing to worry about. Your pitchers are dying back because its last seasons growth, not because of sun. It looks like a new leaf is already emerging from the base.


    I have generally seen red marking on plants that I have kept outside over winter and attributed it to cold more than anything. Not sure if its any cellular damage to the plant or just another pigment showing but it doesn't cause any real harm apart from the fact that plants exhibiting this are much slower to grow than plants grown under cover.

  2. HI Marcel,

    thanks for your reply. No I dont really need 100 gallons at all, I could get away with much less but it was that model which seemed to have the best filtration. Ill check out your link and see what that company does. I had not considered the waste water aspect so thanks for pointing that out. A system taht goes straight onto a tap would be good.


    Hi Rich,

    RO will also take care of the calcium.

    You say 100 US gallon sounds good, does that mean you really need that much?

    There are cheaper systems that fit easy on any tap and you can use the waste water to flush the toilet etc. That is a good thing as it will produce several litres of waste water to 1 litre of pure water. You can also only let it run to fill up the water butts if it isn't raining.

    main thing, it is much cheaper than the big sets.

    Here is a good European company for small sets (former president of the Dutch CPS who set up shop in France):

  3. Hi all, due to a lack of rain in my area over winter I am already hitting my rainwater reserves pretty hard to keep my collection watered and I can see a problem occuring as I am out of space for more water butts. I think an Ro unit is going to have to be my backup and ive looked at some on e-bay this morning.

    What I need to know is what type would suit them best? There is one that can produce 100 US gallons per day of drinking water and that sounds good but it doesnt state that it will remove calcium from my tap water (im in a hard water area). It has a 5 stage process that removes everything else it appears.

    Any advice chaps? Also do they have to be connected to mains supply or can they stand alone?


  4. Hi,

    The first two are Ferocactus species. The 1st one is F.gracilis as far as I can tell. The 2nd older plant looks like Ferocactus wislizeni.

    Number 3 is a Mammillaria but im not sure what species (there are lots!)

    Number 4 is a Tephrocactus which goes under a number of names. I know it as T. papyracantha.

    Number 5 is a Stapelia, most likely S. variegata

    Number 6 is Mammillaria elongata.

    Hope that helps a bit


  5. Hi Phil, Ive had it about a year but it was a large plant already so I thought it would pitcher ok. I have it in much the same conditions as yours. The plant is about 2ft high but has never had any pitchers. The other neps in the same place are all producing pitchers and flowers so I guess ill just have to wait for this one to sort itself out!


  6. I find Aphids in the UK are drawn to D. capensis and mine certainly exhibit the sort of damage you describe when they get hold of them. It can take a few weeks for them to recover properly. Generally I find that capensis is one of the better sundews for heat tolerance here.

  7. Hi all,

    can anybody advise me on Nepenthes 'gentle' ? I have it growing with my other highland Nep's and, whilst it has a vigorous vining habit, it fails to produce any pitchers! I am unfamiliar with its parentage so is it an intermediate? All the other highland nep's are pitchering fine around it!

    Any tips would be welcomed.



  8. Growing conditions for the drosera are as follows;

    They share a fairly large greenhouse with all the VFT's, pings and sarras. They are kept above 5 degrees over winter and left at ambient temp from when it warms up. As a result greenhouse can still be hot with all vents and doors open but is unlikely to get really high. I do have some cooling fans for vent if the outside temp starts getting too hot.

    They are in trays and water level is maintained according to pot size but they are never allowed to dry and never get submerged either.

    Any other info needed?

    Hope you can help


  9. Hi all,

    im hitting a bit of a prob with drosera species that are meant to be easy at the mo. I am loosing examples of D.spatulata, D.nidiformis and D.admirabilis. The plants are packing up and turning black.

    However everything else im growing is fine and the other less common Drosera species are doing well.

    Is it likely the plants are getting too hot? Is there an optimum temp for them?

    The strange thing is that native droseras like D.anglica are doing very well.

    There are no pests or watering probs to blame!

    Any help would be great

    Rich (Numbersix)

  10. I had a flower stalk on a typical form vft suffer some aphid attack a few weeks back. This aborted the flower stalk and it has now formed traps instead. It is virtually a perfect young plant up on a stalk!

    Can this be severed and rooted? What will happen if I leave it?


  11. Thanks Suzy, that gives me a very good idea of what to expect when I see the numbers. I had not realised that it was a system Graham had created for different forms he had bought/ exchanged from different places. I had assumed it was a system attched to specific clones bred at some stage by a grower/ nursery. Still it shows the massive amount of variation that exists in standard form VFT's!


    Numbersix :wink:

  12. HI all,

    there may be a post somewhere I have missed but I wondered if anyone can direct me to a site or give an explanation of the G numbers on VFT forms. I have in my collection G12 and G16 amoung the other named varieties. I am curious as to the origin of the numbers and how many forms there are in the system?


    Numbersix :(

  13. Yes its true to say that direct sun will cause scorch on plants regardless of temp but in my case the VFT's are in the corner of the greenhouse under shading so do not get direct sun.

    I therefore attributed the blacking of the traps and petioles to the high air temperature within the greenhouse. This has the same affect on the plants as scorching from sunlight.


  14. I was growing all my VFT's under glass this year to make sure I got the best colour out of the red forms but some of mine have been scorched by the heat.

    It seems to depend on the age of the plants. The scorched specimens are young plants around 4-5cm across. The larger plants around them are fine and have no signs of scorch. The scorching was on a number of different clones but all were small. I would think that it occured when the temp was pushing above 100 degrees F, which it normally wouldnt with the ventilation.

    I have moved them into the cooler summerhouse that I grow my Heliamphora etc and they are recovering ok.


  15. Hi all,

    anybody out there got any tried and tested tips for germination of Darlingtonia seeds? The books make it sound pretty complex and tricky but someone told me that they will shoot in a jar of water in an airing cupboard! If anybody knows a simple way id be greatful.

    Whilst im at it any useful tips on Sarra seeds and VFT would also be handy.



  16. HI all,

    I have just acquired some tubers of the following Drosera sp's;

    D. macrantha, D. auriculata, D.erythrorhiza and D. menziesii.

    How should I best bring these out of dormancy? Is it best to follow the advice in savage garden and put them in bags with a bit of sphagnum until they shoot and then pot them up?

    Just thought Id ask and see what people have found works for them. Any tips as to further growing would also be appreciated.


    Numbersix :?

  17. Thats what I guessed. Oh well they will have to come indoors but its a bit late now. Ill give em a prune and hope for some reasonable pitcher growth this year.

    N. alata could well be ventrata in reality. Its another case of dutch labelled plants the same as with the ping's that are labelled weser.

    Cheers for the help


  18. Hi,

    im slightly worried at the mo because my nepenthes are looking a bit sorry for themselves. I have a large specimen of N. alata and also N.'miranda' currently growing in one of my greenhouses ( actualy a summerhouse I converted ). It is heated to approx 8 degrees C and never dips below 5 or 6.

    I had the N. alata at this temp last year and it was fine. However this year they have both become covered in brown marks all over the leaves and the remaining pitchers have died off.

    Is this really to cold for them? I had hoped to grow them this way due to their size and therefore available space. Will they pull through ok in spring?

    Any advice would be great

    Rich :lol: