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Stu

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Everything posted by Stu

  1. I simply meant perhaps you didn't think it was worth mentioning to the community as it was an isolated/rare/random case affecting only you.
  2. My thoughts exactly Fred. Obviously didn't think it was worth mentioning before?
  3. You feeling alright Fred?! Even I was tempted :)
  4. Thanks for posting your findings... always good to hear the results of grower's mini-experiments.
  5. I've just come back from a week in the lovely County of Dorset (England). Whilst there, I thought I'd try to locate some wild growing carnivorous plants. I know others have witnessed small pockets of introduced Sarracenia purpurea plants in Wareham Forest. I visited Morden Bog and came across some wild growing Drosera rotundifolia and also some (what I think to be) Drosera intermedia. No sign of S. purpurea but was a joy to see these Drosera thriving in the wild... D. rotundifolia, growing at the side of the path Me, checking the sphagnum in a watery area! D. intermedia(?) D. rotundifolia D. intermedia(?) D. intermedia(?) & D. rotundifolia Me, photographing a particularly dense patch of Drosera! Lots of Drosera! Lots of Drosera! Lovely specimen of D. rotundifolia Following Morden Bog, I then took a walk on Higher Hyde Heath, where I found more Drosera, and this beautiful example of an all red rotundifolia! Pity I was a bit too early in the year for seed set - I will have to return to collect some seed.
  6. Stu

    Dorset Drosera

    Drosera found in Dorset
  7. From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Carla Keeler

  8. From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  9. From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  10. From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Carla Keeler

  11. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2404

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  12. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2395

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  13. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2393

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  14. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2392

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  15. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2391

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  16. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2390

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  17. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2387

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  18. Stu

    20150512 DSCF2366

    From the album: Dorset Drosera

    © Stuart Keeler

  19. Beautiful simplicity. Looks great.
  20. Agree with this. I keep mine all year in the greenhouse and it experiences very similar temperatures. Stayed in the same pot for a number of years now (very wide shallow pots work well and allow for rhizome spread and space for many leaves) and flowers every spring. The best trigger for flowering seems to be letting it dry out a little over winter - by a little, I mean I let mine get quite dry! ;)
  21. This is something I have pondered myself. As the growth continues, new material and food reserves get laid down in the front end of the rhizome during the growing season, and the back end of the rhizome may or may not die back a little. Along with natural divisions, it would seem like the plants can last a long time. However, (taking current scientific knowledge) nothing can live indefinitely and plants, just as animals (including us humans) will expire without intervention. Even the slowest growing trees have a finite life expectancy. If Sarracenia have a limited life, this means that theoretically cultivars in their purest form (identical genetic material) could be permanently lost one day. However, as growers have cultivars from Adrian slack and the like dating back to the 70s, it seems as though Sarracenia do live in excess of 40 years.
  22. Looking good Fred. What clone is that?.. The sepals look much paler than standard with an interesting pink blush.
  23. I wasn't aware of this type in cultivation. I'm usually a fan of miniature scale things (plants included) but this looks odd to me - you can tell it's a mutant and not quite right! It is missing the grace and form of the Darlingtonia pitcher (no matter what size). It's hard to see.. are the traps/pitchers fully formed?.. I.e. able to trap prey?
  24. Hello The most you'll probably be able to check would be the total dissolved solids (TDS). This gives an indication of the dissolved solids within the water, with pure water having a value of 0 parts per million (ppm). As a guide, rain water usually has a value between 0-50 and carnivorous plants are said to need TDS below 100 and preferably below 50. (My very hard tap water is 380 ppm from the tap!) You can get a cheap handheld TDS meter but do be aware that this is still a rather crude estimation of what is in the water supply. A pH reading would help confirm purity but again is only an estimation.
  25. Hi Dan, No need to apologise for being curious :) Here is what I know/have tried over the years: D. capensis You can indeed growing plants from leaf cuttings (or pulls). You can simply lay them in contact with the soil/sphagnum surface, or as you suggest... placing small cut pieces in distilled or RO water is a good way of getting new growth. Can also take root cuttings from capensis which grow OK. D. capilaris x intermedia I've not propagated this plant but assume it to be the same as D. capensis methods above. Purple pitcher You can technically take pitcher pulls and grow new plants but is a fairly slow method. Division of the rhizome is the standard way to bulk up Sarracenia sp. If no extra growth points/natural divisons of the rhizome, you can cut the back end chunk of the rhizome and grow it 'blind'. As long as it has roots, you should get some new growth from it. Some people recommend notching the rhizome to stimulate the growth... I cannot comment on whether this offers any advantage or not. Venus's flytrap You can take leaf pullings to generate new plants. Make sure you pull as much of the white leaf base as possible from the bulb. Another method is to cut the flower stalk when it is only 2-3cm high and plant the bottom (cut) end in the soil. It should regenerate new plantlets at the base. Natural division is the other method for VFTs but can be slow to do so. Other than these methods, tissue culture is a way to make many clones of a particular plant if you want to go down that route.
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