Stu

Firstly, don't do any dividing at this time of year when in full growth... they'll suffer unnecessary stress and set back quite a bit! As Chris said, division is the easiest, fastest and best way of obtaining new plants quickly. Look at the rhizome for natural growth points and if you have two or more, you can split it. You really want to make sure each division has some roots on it. Some cut the rhizome with a sharp knife but I prefer to snap them with my hands, as it allows you to feel how readily the plant is willing to be divided. Then it's simply a case of potting each piece in fresh media (equal parts peat & perlite) with the top half of the rhizome just proud of the surface and water in well. Best advice I can give is check out some youtube tutorials ..and/or pick up some good books on the subject, such as Savage Garden by Peter D'Amato or Carnivorous plants by Nigel Hewitt-Cooper

Presumably this consists of both membranes in a series chain and a single flow restrictor after? As pressure is needed across the membrane.

Hmm, you really aren't having the best time with your RO unit are you! Off the top of my head I can't really think of an explanation other than as you say, DI already degrading but you'd expect it to last a fair amount of time. Perhaps it got exhausted prematurely when you were having problems with the membrane before?... i.e high TDS water passing through the resin, making it work harder?

Not between, as it's on the waste line coming out the RO membrane (only the pure water line feeds from RO to DI). Can be put anywhere on the waste line from the RO but I installed mine quite close to the membrane housing itself, for two reasons... I presumed it may work a little better reducing the amount of pipework before the flush valve for flushing, and wanted to keep the restrictor fairly close to the membrane to make sure back pressure was sufficient.

This is practically identical to my setup... You basically split the waste (red) output line into two paths... one with a ball valve and the other with the flow restrictor (may have to acquire a new one if your unit has the tiny type hidden in the outlet elbow). The pipes then rejoin and run to waste. When the valve is closed, water passes through the flow restrictor as normal and pressure is increased on the membrane allowing for normal operation. When the valve is opened, the water (under pressure) will rapidly follow the path of least resistance, which is now the unrestricted side and the fast flow will help flush particles off the membrane as it passes by. Do pay careful attention to the direction on the flow restrictor... they only work in one direction and must be installed that way. I'm not sure if it is beneficial to keep a bit of pressure in the system. I personally tend to shut the outlet pipes first then finally the input just to make sure it is definitely wet when shutting off and limiting the chance of air in the system.

Is that the one you linked to previously? If so, make sure you take note of the warning; "should not be used for periods longer than 60 minutes at a time, a 120 minute cooldown period between uses must be allowed" If you run it extensively without following that advice it'll burn out quickly. A simple timer socket will allow you to set intervals if necessary.

Zerbirus; you're welcome. Sounds like you're all sorted and as you have near optimal pressure around 60psi, I'm not surprised you're getting efficient ratios of clean:waste water. osmosis; yes that's correct. The flush kits have a flow restrictor in them so you need to remove the miniature one concealed in the outlet elbow. A pressure gauge is good for monitoring, yes. I have mine installed just after the pre-filters, before it enters the RO membrane. That way i can tell if the pre-filters are clogging. Don't forget to hook it up first at the very start of the system to get a baseline value for the mains pressure (i.e. what it should be).

If you need help identifying the bits, post a pic and I and/or others will have a look.

Thanks Rich. Yeah the one front right is deliberately lower (even though it spoils the very neat unified look) to accommodate my taller flava collection, otherwise they'd not only be squashing against the roof but it becomes hard to see and get to those furthest back! Also have a 60cm-ish area immediately front right (can't really see in the pics) that has no staging allowing for real monsters and/or huge multi-crown potfulls in future.

Hi Phil, It happens to be one of my favourites... an S. oreophila 'De Kalb' x S. flava var. rubricorpora [MK-O5 x MK-F45] Grows tall, with a wide throat, big lid, great venation then suddenly turns completely maroon red (as it has done fairly recently).

Hi all, I installed the last sections of staging (all home made) in the greenhouse over the weekend and all is looking much tidier now! Very pleased with the look...

It looks like a flower stalk shape but looks browned off in that pic, as though it has been aborted. As Argo says, a closer pic would help. As for water, I'd fill it right up and not worry too much about it having to all disappear before topping up. That's a high enough pot and they like water much more than they like dryness.

Yes a pressure gauge is a very handy addition. I added one on mine as it allows me to quickly check at a glance that the mains pressure is where it should be and will indicate if a leak ever occurs.

Yes you can get a rebate if you can prove that none of your surface water drainage (i.e rain guttering enters the sewer). I don't think simply saying you use water butts would cut it though, even if you had one on every downpipe, as the way the diverters work is by letting a fraction of the rain into the butt so you're still having some go down. With this current heatwave and water shortages looming, with some districts already being asked to "kindly restrict use of non essential sprinklers and hoses", if I did try for a rebate, they'd probably come back telling me to stop using so much water... just for plants!

The one Chris has and posted is very good value and comes with everything you need. I doubt you'll find ones much cheaper than that, and if you do I'd be dubious of their quality.