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Everything posted by Dieter

  1. Yes, 4 weeks is a good ballpark figure for many of the well distributed species. Just in case you would like to see other examples: This winter germinated some potential pygmy Drosera hybrid seeds for me. The seeds were sown in late 2012 or 2013. Same experience for certain tuberous Drosera seeds. This is the reason for my general reply above. But there are enough examples in both Drosera groups which germinate much faster than this... Cheers Dieter
  2. The extremely general question in your headline can easily be answered: somewhere in the range of few days to several years. The two species you mention in your post usually germinate for me within a few weeks (2-5 weeks to give an estimate). However, the temperature may also play a role. Best regards Dieter
  3. Dear all, I started off a post in the German forum to let the users identify the parents of a new hybrid which germinated in the winter 2014/2015 and now started to flower. The flower morphology (bot not the colouration) seems to be dominated by the seed parent, which I like very much. You will have it a little easier and do not need to guess which species might be the parent of this one, even though I think that is an interesting excercise. I start with two pictures from last summer, the seedling being roughly half a year old and forming a few gemmae as result of the adaption to the
  4. Dear all, the plant I grow as clone 2 from that location started extremely early in the flowering season. The pictures below were taken end of January. The scapes were extremely short so that it seemed that the flowers directly emerged from the top of the plant. Meanwhile, the scapes have grown in length, so they look a bit more normal. As I obtained this form as gemmae nearly a year ago, I am not sure whether this very early flowering pattern is a consistent behaviour or just an outlier. The only other species I currently have in flower is the D. eneabba and a first D. citr
  5. Hi John, thanks for sharing pictures of this species. I should be able to add flower pictures soon. I find it interesting that you write that you observe sometimes the formation of an additional tuber. I actually got the impression that this species is quite good at forming extra tubers. However, I have years in which no plants appear at all and I fully agree that this is not an easy species, at least not for me. Best regards Dieter
  6. Hi jp, great plants and great pictures! Your D. erythrorhiza forms quite a few leaves. I observed for my D. erythrorhiza var. imbecilia that fertilized plants produced more than the typical 3-4 leaves whereas the non-fertilized plants stick to the 3-4 leaves (probably because they unerstood the species description better than I do). Do you observe something similar? thanks for sharing Dieter
  7. Hi Lucien, I can only agree with the others: great plants!!! Best regards Dieter
  8. Dear all, I know it has been a while since I posted some pictures. Sorry for that. I just do not have as much time as I would need to get everything done. I also know that some of you are still waiting for a reply of some sort (email or pm). I work on that as well :-) At least I took some time to sort through the pictures I took during the past 2 months or so. Here are some of them. More can be found on my website. As a starter I would like to show the two new species in the macrantha family with their typical features. Here is D. hirsuta (starting with pictures from mid of Novembe
  9. Hi David, I suggest the cool conditions in the green house. My plants get about 10 h photoperiod. Best regards Dieter
  10. Hi Maurizio, nice plants! Best regards Dieter
  11. Congratulation on the germination! Your stratification obviously worked well. In my conditions D. trinervia is not really among those species which need at long time to germinate. Anyway, just in case you are wondering: the mix may contain seeds of D. stolonifera, D. browniana, D. whittakeri and/or D. aberrans (all of which are more or less round seeds, the D. whittakeri and/or aberrans seeds were obvious as they were larger and do not roll well) plus D. basifolia, D. auriculata and potentially also D. zigzagia (lenghty seeds). I do not fully remember. The mix was not made by accident: One day
  12. Nice plants! In case of the D. gracilis I am not so sure the ID is correct. I would expect it to be much redder. Is it possible this is a D. hookeri? Best regards Dieter
  13. My experience with repotting as well as shipping D. burmannii bar root is that there may be some losses in both cases, but many plants will recover and - due to their fast growth - will look beautiful a short time after arrival or repotting. Best regards Dieter
  14. Dear all, as I had severe problems accessing and posting in this forum, these pictures are posted a little later than I did in the GFP forum. Nevertheless, I hope they will be of interest for you anyway. As it is still early in the season, there are only rosetted species starting to flower now. This year, two species made in nearly at the same time, but one D. whittakeri form from Onkaparinga Gorge won the contest by 2 days. D. praefolia followed a few days later. As it seems, at least 3 of my D. praefolia plants flower this season. :-) A few days later I had the pleasure to find 7
  15. I will be there, but that probably is no surprise :-) See you there Dieter
  16. Sure. They are looking great and I am sure they keep growing quickly. It will only be 1-2 months until you will get to see the first flower stalks and once they flower and set seeds, you will see them popping up everywhere (for instance I just found a couple of seedlings in a Roridula pot). This species is a weed, but a very beautiful one. And it is easy to remove in case you do not want it to grow somewhere. Best regards Dieter
  17. I would leave them as they are. They can actually form dense carpets in my collection. That may not be ideal for the individual plant, but it certainly looks nice! Best regards Dieter
  18. I keep most pygmy species in pots of 10 or 11 cm height. Watering by the tray method a while after the tray has run dry. This can be done all year, but obviously the watering frequency is much higher in summer as the trays dry out very fast. When being grown this way, I do not have a lot of mosses competing with my pygmies. D. scorpioides should outcompete the mosses whereas D. pygmaea certainly can be overgrown more easily. Best regards Dieter
  19. Very interesting! Thanks for sharing pictures of these rarely seen species. I once tried to take nice picture of - I think - U. dunlopii flowers and completely failed to come up with anything I was somewhat happy with. These species really are difficult to capture well! Best regards Dieter
  20. Hi Youri, it may be more likely the plant is not mutated but was disturbed during development leading to the malformed leaf. In that case you will only get normal plantlets from your cutting. Fortunately, not any irregular growth has genetic reasons (and therefore is a mutant). Best regards Dieter
  21. Hi Meizwang, I would expect that the rosetted species is D. rosulata (depressed mid rib), for sure it is none of the erythrorhiza complex species. The climbing species is one of those in the macrantha complex. I can not see the base of the stem, so I need to guess a little. It should be either D. planchonii or D. macrantha. Please check whether the stem has approx. the same diameter throughout its length. I would expect this is not the case. If so, this one most like is a D. macrantha. I do not think this is D. indumenta. This species has a very typical appearence when coming through the
  22. Hi Fred, I can tell that U. reniformis does not like it when the pot itself gets frozen. The rhizome may get damaged that way. I fully agree with the observation that occasional mild frosts will kill the active leaves but the plants come back with lots of new growth in spring. Hence I keep my plants in the wintergarden unless a persistant frost is expected. In that case I move them inside. I also planted a rhizom piece into a Sarracenia tray earlier this year, just to see how it will do there with lots of space for the rhizome, shady conditions (as overgrown by the Sarracenia in summe
  23. Dear all, here are flower pictures of two of my D. cistiflora forms. Clone number one seems to be in collections for quite a while. It comes with the description "salmon pink flower" and can get quite large. My largest plant measures 42-45 cm this season. The plant itself remains relatively green even if exposed to full sunshine - conditions at which my other D. cistiflora get much redder. There are a few small D. stricticaulis growing in the same pot... This is a flower at the end of its life cycle. Another shot of the same flower. The next day the flower above rema
  24. Nice variation and well captured! Thanks for sharing Dieter