RL7836
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Posts posted by RL7836
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Wow!
I missed this post the first time around. This is a very elegant flower with a shape I have not seen before - thin & curvy ... As has already been noted, it appears to be a very robust grower. Too bad that it is not yet more widely available. -
After a bit more than a year iirc, my U. uniflora finally decided to share some flowers with me.
Front view:
Side view:
Three-quarters view (yes - it started to drizzle on me & the flowers after I went out):
Foliage - the little 'buttons' are quite sparse, yet this is as dense as mine have grown (unlike other pics I've seen). Their tiny size continually makes me wonder how the heck they survive in the wild. The only way they survive in my care is with my carefully plucking moss every 2 months or so ... :censor:
Whole plant. This provides a bit of perspective. It's hard for me to believe that those tiny buttons can produce these giant redwood flower stalks (so far 5 stalks - 2 in bloom & 3 more coming along):
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... but wasn't your request for a definitive status update on which side of this fabricated line B. tatei currently resides?It's just people who feel the need to draw a line in the sand, and give each side of the line a name. -
Thanks for all the kind words everyone.
Even though I've had all of these plants in my collection, the differences in color and size and veining are just not as obvious until they are planted together. I'd love to say that this was planned but the reality is that these were mostly spare divisions after separating growth points a year or two ago. In hindsight, i wish I would have used a third location of montana or my purp veinless instead of the two same montana's in the middle - - - maybe next time...
While it is just my opinion, I would never consider a plant to be from a specific location unless you have reliable information from the seller. Appearance alone is just not enough information to attach a location label. there may be a colony of similar plants 2 counties away (or 2 states!)........Now I know that my Sarr Venosa var is the Henderson County kind...... -
I haven't had the opportunity to explore any natural Sarracenia sites in the south for a number of years but something I recall is that I don't think I ever found a Sarr in its natural habitat that did this. They fill w/ bugs but don't brown or brown & topple. The leuco's, especially, filled with bugs very quickly and continued to stay robust & upright.When Sarracenia pitchers become full of bugs(mostly flies), then after a few days, becomes brown and rotted, then breaks from the middle then tips over and spills rich nitrogenous fly compost,...Some pitchers do fall over but upon investigation, they are typically the ones infected with the nasty Xyra moth larvae.
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My experiences are more similar to Loligo than the others. I've received several orders of Neps & Heli's and although somewhat small, all have grown well once potted. As Loligo mentions, the fact that Andreas has a USA person with all necessary permits allows us to receive the vast numbers of plants available in Europe and his batching of orders saves tremendously on shipping & paperwork costs - and the savings are passed on to us. I would love to see some of the other excellent EU retailers adopt these practices ...
As others have mentioned, shipping any living thing in the heat of summer is a crapshoot. Heck, some of the plants that died for people could have gotten overheated in their mailbox or their postman's vehicle!
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This summer has been the hottest one on record for NJ (following the hottest spring). Because of this, it seems I spend alot of my time making RO water & watering my plants. Each year, different plants seem to become my favorites. This year, a tray of different versions of S. purpurea keeps catching my eye & I regularly find myself lingering around it. The diversity of colors & veining coupled with the always-present shimmering dew of the companion plants - just grabs me. Based on this, I thought I'd share some pics ...
Top view of the tray:
Legend:
- Bottom left - S. purpurea ssp venosa var montana, Henderson County, NC (code 21)
- Top left - D. x hybrida (filiformis*intermedia), Burlington County, NJ (4 in tray) >> to the right of this hybrida is S. purpurea ssp venosa var burkii f. luteola
- Just to the left of middle are two S. purpurea ssp venosa var montana (code 21A)
- Just to the right of middle is S. purpurea ssp venosa var burkii, Baldwin County, AL (code 23B)
- Above & to the right of middle is S. purpurea ssp venosa var burkii, Cooks Bayou, Bay County, FL (code 23)
- Far right bottom is S. purpurea ssp venosa 'Brunswick Beauty' (code 22A)
- far right top is another baby luteola seedling (all of my luteola seedling are very slow growers (the opposite of Woodnative's))
Some zoom-in pics:
- S. purpurea ssp venosa var montana (code 21A)
- S. purpurea ssp venosa var montana, Henderson County, NC (code 21)
- just above the montana is D. x beleziana (intermedia*rotundifolia), Ocean County, NJ
- S. purpurea ssp venosa 'Brunswick Beauty' (code 22A)
- S. purpurea ssp venosa var burkii f. luteola
- on either side of the luteola are 2 - D. x hybrida with a D. x beleziana just above
Oooops - later edit - forgot this one...
- Just to the right of middle is S. purpurea ssp venosa var burkii, Baldwin County, AL (code 23B)
(FYI - more pics in growlist)
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When I tried this several years ago, the seed often pulled apart rather than just being pulled out of the pod. It seemed that they were quite firmly anchored until they went in 'starfish mode'.Can the seed be harvested without being harmed by pulling it out of the pods once it looks ripe but before it has become so loosely attached that it blows away?
This method typically works quite well - the pods go 'starfish' once safely detached & inside of a dry jar.or if in doubt pull off a whole flower once the seeds start to go pale greeny-brown and let it finish ripening in a (dry) jar indoors -
.... without a dry period?I've grown it successfully for several years standing in a tray of water about 1" same as other CPs -
I must agree with Alexis - stunning plant. Mine are also having a good summer - but still not as striking as yours!I don't think it's possible to get a more perfect example of the species! Stunning.Do you feed yours? My plants frequently struggled through the growing season. Last year I decided to squirt some dilute orchid fertilizer into their tubes every few weeks (or when I was in the mood). They're much more robust now. When I check the tubes, I rarely find any insects...
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It appears that you're considering U. alpina a temperate plant that goes dormant in the winter - it is not. Consider re-reading the link I posted previously (including the embedded links) and this one from Pyro to get a better understanding of section Orchidioides....Dormancy, in mid-summer? The plant is adult and is supposed to by acclimatised to the weather conditions... -
U. alpina & U. longifolia are very different plants and do not have the same 'optimal' conditions. U. alpina has tubers to carry it through dry periods. If it wants to go dormant & you keep it wet, you encourage rot.They both receive the same care and share the same tray with other cp's, yet the one is declining and the other thrives.Here's a quick snapshot of information.
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While I suspect most of the hard-core Nep-philes are already following this sale - for those who are unaware - Eddy sale. There are also some nice pics of mature Eddy pitchers...
(based on past threads - I know that plants that sell for high prices tend to stimulate people's interest - so - in the interest of sharing ....) (Current currency conversion = 1USD = 0.7694 Euro or 1 Euro = 1.2997USD)
Current bid = $1500 USD
FYI - this isn't my plant - just a free public service announcement ...
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Olivier,
Thanks for sharing the pics - awesome!! What day/nite temps did you see in the vicinity of the jamban? Any tales you'd like to share about your trip?
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Carlos,
Thanks for sharing these pics. I attempted this cross in the spring & only got a few seeds from several flowers. So far, the leaves are still small like U. nephrophylla. Hopefully, they will get larger & flower .... How long did yours take to grow from seed to flower?
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I have not grown this species, so I cannot say what is 'normal' for it. However, based on growing some other members of section Orchidioides, I can say that it is not unusual to see this occur....
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Yes - the pics are great, the 'hosting' is not. As usual, many pics do not even appear.....Awesome pics as usual Avery!!!
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Yes - I would also like to see current pics as they might help me to identify any possible seedlings amongst my mosses....How are the seeds doing? Have you transferred them from the cotton wool pad to a growing medium?
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I'm not certain what your question is. For a good primer on these plants, Travis wrote this a while back...
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Ok - I started this thread on April 1st - today is May 19th & my U. longifolia are still blooming! The plant with the 1st blooms in this thread still has 4 beautiful flowers & at least one more on the way. Two other plants are still flowering - but not with as many. Here's a pic from today...
As you can see from the swollen seedpod, all of the previous flowers on this stalk were pollinated. Counting the one that's about to open, there are/were nine flowers on this stalk.
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Ditto - thanks for sharing the great pics & best of luck w/ the delph. For those unfamiliar with these flowers - check out Bob's photofinder... amazing!very nice flowers - and congrats to your delphnioides! Looking forward to see the flowers -
Here's a couple of pics of U. praelonga:
http://www.cpukforum.co.uk/uploader/user_u...s/praelonga.JPG
http://www.utricularien.de/karnivoren/kult..._praelonga2.jpg
I think the plant's probably a praelonga in unusual conditions. But on the off chance the plant is a hybrid, I'd go with U. calycifida as the other parent:
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z137/Li..._calycifida.jpg
Tim,
Thanks for pic links. The one from Nicole I saw previously and only helped to confuse me. The 1st link, however, completely cements the ID imho. Other than the central rosette on my plant, the shape & distribution of leaves is very similar - complete even to the discoloration (see the leaves in the middle & those from 2-3 oclock).
The appearance of the leaves has been roughly the same since they emerged (ie: ugly, somewhat malformed & discolored). I do not believe that it has had a "powdery mildew attack" but i agree that it's one ugly little plant!not really, looks like it has, or recently had, a bad powdery mildew attack...Thanks to everyone for the comments & ID help.
Maybe someday, I'll even figure out how the plant came into my possession....
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I received an unconfirmed Orchidioides cross from a friend last fall. During repotting, I took a small section to plant in another pot. As time went on, it became more & more apparent that the two pots contained very different plants. For a few months I figured the utric had died & there was now some form of weed growing. Several months passed and the pot now had several vertical spike growths which I assumed were a bog weed. However, when I pulled one out, a significant section of underground utric growth pulled up also. Upon closer inspection, it appeared that the spike growths, bladders & other leaves all come from the same mass of underground growth.
I've shown pics of the plant to the originator of the hybrid Orchidioides & another grower from whom I have made several trades. Neither recognizes the plant nor has anything similar in their collection. The plant has yet to flower in my care.
The pot is 2.5" (6.3cm).
Side view:
Close-up of central 'rosette':
Close-up of leaves at edge of pot:
Later edit: Searching through Barry's faq & Bob's photofinder, U. praelonga would seem to be a candidate due to the 2 leaf types but the few foliage photos I could find did not seem to match well.
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Thanks for all of the nice comments.
What a beautiful one
How do you cultivate it ?I've been growing them for a number of years now. There are some links on media & growing in this longer Terra post for those who like to read. While their conditions for 'happiness' is not wide, once you find out the range, the plants are very easy, grow well, put out many babies & are very easy to propagate. I highly recommend experimentation with multiple clones (keeping one as a 'safety') to see what works for you & your conditions. For most of this time I kept one 'mother plant' and a number of smaller ones of different sizes. I stupidly allowed my original 'mother plant' to die from neglect. To replace her, I took a small plant, gave it a larger pot & started to regularly feed it with wingless fruit flies*. The plant responded with great growth, outgrowing the pot at least once (or twice). The largest my original plant got was probably 4-4.5" (10-11cm) iirc. This plant is currently larger than 7" (18cm) diameter.
For media, I use 100% live LFS in a pot 3.5" tall which typically sits in a small amount of water (when I tried peat-based media - the plants died). If I use a shorter pot, the plant gets too wet and doesn't tend to grow well**. To maintain very high humidity, a humidity dome is normally used (see pic). Although keeping a plant 'sealed' & sitting is water is normally not recommended, with my experimenting over the years, this setup has produced the largest, strongest plants. If you want to grow them in warmer, more open conditions, check w/ Andrew or Pyro - they've had success in the southern USA without being fully covered. While the plants can be quite picky with conditions, they are very good at letting you know when they are not happy. This plant sits in a north-facing window in my office all winter & when temperatures rise, I take it into the basement (where it pouts all summer).
While the flowering is indeed quite uncommon, I tend to believe that the combination of conditions (temperatures, media, food) combined to induce the blooming. Another plant that I fed much less frequently also sent up a flower stalk but it ceased development several weeks after I stopped feeding it.
D. schizandra in its 'home'.
* - which is a pain btw. Once a week or every 2nd week or 3rd week), I would stick 3-5 wff's on a section of leaf, keep them there for 2-4 days & ideally remove them just before mold started to form. In addition, I wiped that part of the leaf with 70% isopropyl alcohol after removing the partially-digested wff's. If I did not do this, mold would form & create holes in the leaves.
** - I'm growing another plant in a pot barely 1" high & I do not keep it sitting in water. The tray stays dry & I water a little every week or two.
Pollination?
in Utricularia
Posted