RL7836
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Posts posted by RL7836
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Paulo,
What an amazing place to visit! Thanks for sharing all those wonderfully beautiful pictures.
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Has anyone had their collections infected with this disease after they've been using Trichoderma for a few months?
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A new acquisition (from last fall) has been flowering for the last two weeks or so. Unlike all of the other Utricularia that I've had flower, the blooms have only lasted 2-3 days. Usually Utricularia flowers have been lasting for a few weeks and sometimes months. The scapes are the longest things I've seen on a small Utricularia. Since they are so long, they fall over, start to grow vertically again and fall over once more (& so on)(one is approx. 38 cm & still growing).
Here are the pics that I've been able to capture, which sadly do not do justice to the actual beauty of the little flowers & their true colors.
Foliage:
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My night temps are 14-15*C typically. Daytime temps = 21-23*C. These temps will begin to go up some as we get out of deep winter (even though they are in my basement). I sowed the seeds on a moist cotton pad.Ron, not germinate? Which night temperature you have?During yesterday's inspection, I noticed that the seeds were sitting in water between the fibers on the cotton pad. I attempted to somewhat reduce this level of water by soaking some of the water with a dry paper towel.
Feb 6th was 4 weeks ....
I'll share my results if any germinate ...
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For the past 10 years or so, I've wintered my Sarrs in the back of my unheated garage. My 1st year doing this, I lost a massive S. leucophylla to botrytis. Since then I also have cut all 'protrusions' to allow good air circulation. In addition, I use Trichoderma before they go to bed in the fall - knock on wood - has not happened again (thankfully).
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Congratulations on the germination, I'm still waiting & hoping....
Here's another thread by Tobias on campy seed germination - looks like Peter & friend have also had some germination - good job!
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Avery,
Absolutely astounding pics of U. asplundii - definitely some of the best I have ever seen! Congratulations on composing, creating some fantastic pictures as well as growing an extremely healthy, happy plant!
.... now, about your host ...
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I have seen it in some pics of Cephs in the wild. While the trait is not common, it is not unique to HG clones.Has anyone else with pitchers over 70mm on their plants seen this wide midrib on other clones?From what I have seen, many unscrupulous people have capitalized on the premium paid for HG plants and substitute typicals (since no one can be certain). Since the wide midrib is rare/uncommon in non-HG clones, it's presence can help confirm that the plant is indeed an HG.
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I agree, you can never be absolutely certain unless you can actually trace the path back to John Hummer.I think the problem with Cephs is they all look pretty much the same and you'll never be sure.
With 'Hummer's Giant' clones, there is usually a wide midrib on some of the pitchers once they reach adult size. While John didn't mention this as an attribute, it is noticeable in the pic in his cultivar description. I received my original plant from Charles Brewer and was with him when he purchased his plant(s) from John at the ICPS Conference in Atlanta. Most of my plants show this extra-wide midrib (as can be seen in pics in my growlist) once they are producing adult pitchers.It could be a 'Hummers Giant' but it may just be a normal Ceph. Other than size there are no identifiable differences.
Mine do color up but get their darkest colors when the temps get cooler. Although I have other Ceph clones that get almost black at times, my HG plants have never gotten as dark as the pitchers in your photo.Hummers Giant always remains almost green for me, even in fill sun, subtle colouring... -
N. jamban ---> Will grow as an intermediate, but is more highland. Isn't as cranky about warmer temps as lowii, but prefers standard highland conditions.Outside in San Diego, I've noticed that lowii hybrids (as I don't have the pure species) like it on the colder end of highland, while jamban likes warmer highland (intermediate I'd say).
My N. jamban must be the only cranky/picky plant on earth! While it grows like a weed all winter, when the slightly warmer summer temps hit my basement, the N. jamban goes into pout mode. It hates the warmer temps as much or more than N. aristolochioides. The other neps, like N. lowii, N. hamata & N. tenuis are unfazed by the slightly warmer temps ...
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Any idea how low the temps actually got in there?
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This plant may be the fastest growing Heli in my care. Since I received it, it has just kept adding pitchers. Here is the plant in the beginning of Sept:
.... and a closeup on the pitcher:
The nectar spoons seems to develop a bit more with each adult pitcher. The one currently in development appears similar to Brians's...
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Before spending that kind of money, you might want to consider buying a small refrigerator like they use in college dorms. Around here, they are less than 1/3 of the price you listed. With the amount you save, you could pay someone to do the modifications for the exterior light and install a new digital thermostat..... (and you could probably pick up a used unit for even less when the universities let out for the summer).
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I'm curious why you think this? What are your Neps doing that make you think they need more humidity?.....but like i say the humidity wont stay high enough for my neps.
I don't mean for this to sound sarcastic - but what do your Neps think?Do you reckon this is ok for my nepenthes now?Often plants are grown in high humidity and can need to be acclimated to lower levels - but that doesn't mean that they cannot thrive with medium to lower levels.
Over the past few years, I've received a number of small non-hybrid Heli's. Thankfully, all have grown well almost from day one - except for the supposedly bombproof hybrid H 'Tequila'. Since it was in a tank with several other new Heli's that were doing well and sending out new pitchers, it took me a while to realize that they must have been previously been grown in very high humidity and needed some help before they would be happy in medium levels. Sure enough, once in higher humidity - the plants are producing new pitchers.
I recently needed to move a N. eymae (BE - aka: N. maxima) from a tank to my windowsill - so there was a dramatic lowering in humidity levels. While I expected to see some 'pouting' (with a possible need for intervention), I never saw anything except ongoing excellent growth & pitcher formation.
In both situations, I 'assumed' something - which was wrong/invalid - and just needed to observe the plant and listen to the signals it sent to me to see what it really needed...
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Hornet,
You might want to consider the difficulty (or possibly the special needs) of each species. Some of the most beautiful, or with the largest flowers may have very specific requirements and be difficult for someone fairly new to CPs to grow. Some utrics need hot temperatures, some need cool, some have a winter dormancy, some go dormant in the summer.
Example: while most would list U. campbelliana as having a very beautiful flower, it can be very difficult to grow well. To keep his happy, Tobias Kulig grows one (or more) in a modified refrigerator...
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With some help from the 'CP community', Amphirion has put together a wonderful photo calendar for 2011. To view a draft and to express an interest in purchase: Here
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That's Jimmy - Uphwiz on Terraforums (I'm not sure if he's also over here on cpuk). One of his Ceph pics made it in the new calendar..... so your better off asking the guy whose video it is you might be able to contact him on you tube although I think he is a member of this forum. -
Interesting observation. While I currently only have the Akopan, I recently commented to a friend on how much faster it grows than the 3 H. minor clones. I'm hoping to add the Amuri location in the near future...
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Mine are the same as yours & the same as 98% of the other folks who grow this plant - sadly. It seems that greenhouse growers do not fair much better than those who use terrariums. Most of those who have had it flower are unable to duplicate the event - so it remains a mystery.What are your experiences?Most people tend to grow this in a small pot like their other small utrics - I wonder if a larger pot would help?
Carlos & a few others are an exception. Maybe we can get him to share more of his secrets for success. To try something different, I've repotted 2 U. longifolia clones as well as a tricolor & praelonga & placed them on my windowsill.
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Carlos,
You are the man! Congratulations on getting all of those plants to bloom (especially everyone's nemesis - U. tricolor!). How large is the pot you use for the tricolor & how long has it been in the pot before flowering? Does the pot sit in water all the time?
Thanks for sharing those wonderful pics.
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Jeremiah,
Stunning pics of some some wonderfully well-grown plants - thanks for sharing!
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Great pics Avery (as usual) - thanks for sharing! (but you need another host!)
The last U. livida (with the 'dot') is a very different form from the normal livida flower with which I am familiar. This is definitely just a variation and not a different species?
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i just recieved a new Sarracenia flava var. ornata i was just wondering how to take care of it. i live in pensylvania i wanted to know if i could leave it outside. i also need to know how much water they need for now and in the spring through summer.
Aaron,
Barry's faq will answer most of your questions (sounds like you're going to have a lot!).
I grew up in NE PA & if kept outside in pots, many of my Sarrs would not make it through the winter. Even here in NJ, if kept outside many will die.
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Andreas,That's why in autumn, the leaves of many perennial plants get a nice reddish or bronze colouration (not the leaves of deciduous trees that are shed during fall, but the leaves of perennial herbs, like the venus flytrap).Thanks for sharing this explanation - I've always noticed this for both VFTs & Cephs in the fall when temps drop ...
Pics out of my lab
in Carnivorous Plants in Cultivation
Posted · Edited by RL7836