RL7836
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Posts posted by RL7836
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Early this autumn, I repotted my original 'mother' D. schizandra to give it a larger pot, some new media and to transplant the babies that were popping up all over. I tend to be a tad skeptical of LFS as a potting media but based on recommendations of others, the original D. schizandra has been growing in it for ~2 years (quite happily). Since there were a good number of babies, I split them into 4 pots. 2 of the pots had 100% live chopped LFS as media and the other 2 used a 1:1:1 mix of peat: chopped live LFS: sand (00). All 4 were placed in the same water tray and each pot was covered w/ a clear cup (humidity dome). Two of the cups were perforated at the top and 2 had no holes. All plants were placed next to 'mother' in a north-facing window (that also gets some early AM light from a nearby east-facing window).
Not long after transplanting the babies, it seemed that the plants in the LFS were growing faster and appeared to be more robust. I have not noticed any real difference in perforated domes vs unperforated (the 2 pots in the middle are perforated). Here are the 4 pots as of today...
While I won't pretend that these results are conclusive, they are providing a catalyst to revise my bias. In fact, I hope to scrap the experiment this weekend and replace the 1:1:1 pots with 100% live LFS. In addition to having reduced growth, one of the plants in the 1:1:1 mix took a dramatic downturn over the past week (2nd pot from left, plant @ 10:00).
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Geez, it's taken you a while to get this one up and running George.
Hey - better late than never!!
Thanks for the pics George!!
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There are probably a bunch of ways but I found the cheapest (easiest?) to be 12" heat tape (Big Apple Herp). Plugged directly into an outlet it gives ~120*F. I hook it up to a lighting dimmer to vary the heat. Even better would be a proportional heating controller (but they can be a tad pricey)What do you think is the best way to heat a terrarium? -
Hi Sean,
While all of the time & effort to travel to these locations and locate the plants is probably a labor of love, taking the time to create great photos and then also come back and sort, resize & post them is an effort that we really appreciate (as evidenced by all of these responses!!)
Thanks for all your hard work, effort and time!!
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Hi Greg,
Sorry to hear of your losses.
Homer & I have both observed that repotting can sometimes kickstart growth and avoid dormancy.... Last year, I had 2 D. kenneallyi plants shrinking daily. I repotted and new growth started immediately. An added bonus was the plants took this action as a trigger to flower ... IIRC - SundewMatt had a number of plants flower after a mass repotting earlier this year ........ but I repotted them and they have both started growing vigorously.
Be careful w/ wet & cool conditions. Many have warned me that these conditions cause piles of rotted mush ....BTW, next time I go away in the summer, I will turn the heating off on my propogator. The water will not evaporate so quickly then. -
Hi Vic,
Interersting D. ordensis plants. Thanks for sharing. You asked about the D. derbyensis in the pics:
Based on everything I read & see about this complex - I don't think I could ever be certain with an ID!However, are you sure of your I.D.?
However - some thoughts:- these 3 plants came from seed purchased from Triffid Nurseries - maybe Andy knows their origin?
- I have grown 5 different groups of different D. derbyensis plants - most appear similar to the center one in my pics. Only one comes close (clone from Triffid Park) to the petiole width of yours (that one seems to be close to D. broomensis!). I'm also wondering if the more narrow petiole width on my TP plant is due to higher humidity / less pubescence? With many of the hairier plants in this group, lower humidity seems to usually increase pubescence (or the reverse) which also increases the perception of petiole width...
- 2 of the 3 groups of plants came from Lowrie seed - directly.
I hesitate to draw ID conclusions on plants that are not yet adult size. For example - the plants in the above pics are probably 1/3rd to 1/2 normal adult size (or less). As the white petiole plant in the top pic grew, the max width of the petiole stayed the same but the length grew. This changed the proportions significantly.
Even w/ all that, I do agree that the left plant in my pics above does have a D. ordensis look to the petiole .... hmmmm....
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Normally, I use the JanW method for propagation attempts with section Lasiocephala plants. However, just before vacation, I'd run out of space on top of my lights and figured I'd give this another try (similar situation earlier this year w/ another clone - I was 2 for 2). When I returned from vacation, this is what I found (the strike must have sprouted almost the day I left!):
Not too pretty - but batting .200 for this round (so far).
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Maurizio,
Congratulations on a fantastic landscape creation! It really evokes scenes of northern Oz. So are you going to keep them in the setting and allow them to grow?
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Some nice Cephs that have really colored-up well! Are they getting direct sun all day?
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[quote name='Aidan']Petiolaris plants in cultivation may not go dormant at all, or may perhaps appear to stop growing for a few weeks... if and when they feel like it.
Unlike temperate [i]Drosera,[/i] dormancy (if that is what it really is) occurs as a reaction to extreme heat and drought conditions found in their natural environment.[/quote]
I wish it was this simple .... While this seems to be true for some of my plants, others go dormant w/o apparent (to me anyway) reasons.... [img]http://www.cpuk.me.uk/s/301.gif[/img] ... and then some don't bother to wake up .... [img]http://www.cpuk.me.uk/s/929.gif[/img] -
Hey,
Woo
I have the same problem with my 2 D.dilato-petiolaris locations, the leaves become black like yours!!!
This issue w/ the D. derbyensis was especially unusual because 1) they were pubescent woolies and 2) not all of the plants in the same pot reacted similarly.
The blackened tips in D. petiolaris and D. dilatato-petiolaris is a fairly common reaction to reduced humidity and can usually be resolved quite easily by increasing humidity levels. If you want to grow the plants in lower humidity, acclimate the plants slowly ...
This issue was discussed over here: Black petiolaris leaves
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Many of the significant differences Lowrie lists (between d-p & fulva) are related to characteristics associated w/ flowering. He also mentions an increase in dendritic hairs post flowering and into dormancy.Here is d. fulva. It does look similar to petiolaris. I find it hard to tell petiolaris, fulva, and dilatato-petiolaris apart! -
...but about pubescent species I tried with D. aff ordensis and I had a lot of success...my windowsill is magic
Congratulations! When you find something that works ... run with it!!
btw - which aff ordensis? Wide leaf, narrow leaf or?
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In your experience Ron, also the pre-dormancy period is good for trying leaf cutting of petiolaris complex drosera?
For D. caduca, I have no experience. My lone plant is a recent acquistion as my Lowrie seed refuses to sprout...
In general, with this group, some groups of cuttings/pullings have tremendous success and others are terrible. I have yet to determine the critical factors (although - generally the pubescent species seem tougher to propagate). So far, one of the consistent aspects of water propagation is that it is not consistent - when I'm in a major dry spell and ready to give up - I'll then start finding strikes and more strikes & more & more .... When it rains, it pours!
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Congratulations on your success! Were the conditions the same as your D. falconeri (bucket on windowsill)? Also, was the plant in an active growth phase when you plucked the leaf or in it's pre-dormancy, non-carnivorous, stiff-leaf phase?
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What would be the causes of blackening tips?
I used to see this regularly w/ D. petiolaris or D. dilatato-petiolaris type plants when they were shocked. Providing a more humid environment solved the problem each time. If I wanted to grow them in drier conditions, I acclimated them slowly.
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They get direct sun from dawning to about 1pm, temperature inside are very high, the highest one has reached 55°C!
55*C!! Holy Cow!!
... & to think I was nervous when I saw 45*C ... -
Hey Rob,
D.banksii is a strange plant that fooled taxonomists for a while. It is strange because it looks like a tuberous Drosera but has no tuber, it is annual and grows in N Australia where no tuberous species are found. It has only recently been identified as an erect member of the petiolaris-complex. Don't know if it's easy to grow, but good luck!!
I missed this thread the 1st time around (Thanks Rob!!). I'm curious what prompted the classification into section Lasiocephala ....
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Yes, outside during the summer, covered with a plexiglass box. They sit in water.
Hi Maurizio,
Great pics of some excellent well-grown plants!! About how many hours of direct sun do your plants get each day when they are outside? Any idea how it gets inside the plexi box?
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What size of tank? What wattage are the bulbs and how distant from the lights are the plants?
Many do not realize how critical distance is to the intensity of light the plant sees. IIRC - the formula is:
I=K/D*D
I = intensity of light seen by plant
K = constant related to light, fixture, etc
D = distance from lamp
Using this, it's easy to see how a small reduction in distance makes a big difference in light intensity.
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The colony may have been founded by a single individual, in which case the gene pool would be very limited
Any ideas when the 1st plant(s) were introduced to the site? They've sure made themselves comfortable!!
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yes, you're right Ron.
I kept the cuting in a plastic packet filled with distilled water indoor in front of a windows with direct sun for about three hours in the morning.
Cheers
... with no added heat? Any idea how hot the water got? Most successes with which I'm familiar required temps north of 35*C. How many weeks in the water until you noticed growth?
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Congratulations Maurizio!!
Looks like the one on the right is giving you a little extra w/ 2 growth points!
What were your conditions (water temps, lighting (duration & intensity), etc)?
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Francois, yes i do like the petiolaris complex. My mission is to collect them all. Of course, what will i do when i'm done?!
You can never be done!!
Between the different locations (and their variety) and the hybrids (simple & then complex) - start investing now for a setup larger than Chuck's ....
D. schizandra media
in Drosera
Posted
Hi Siggi,
Thanks for the add'l information (& in-situ photo!).
While repotting, I noticed that the roots tended to stay within a centimeter or 2 of the top of the pot rather than head to the bottom (and circle around) as many other Drosera (D. regia, D. capensis, D. binata, etc) like to do. This didn't appear to be from lack of vigor as the roots were quite long and the plants in good growing condition, they just did not want to turn down....