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Posts posted by RL7836
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Due to space & time constraints for the past few years, I have not had much opportunity to grow from seed, but unlike Scot, I find the process quite enjoyable. Growing plants from seed is a time-lapse journey of discovery that I highly recommend to any with some modicum of patience. I am hording many varieties of seed in my frig for the (hopefully) near future when I can once again enjoy the process....IMO, growing VFTs from seed is HIGHLY overrated..most people try it once, are disappointed, and never bother again..
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Hi Scot,
Thanks for sharing your experiences growing - very interesting.
I have left the S. flava in its own pot, because it grows oddly every year, with strangely curved and somewhat deformed pitchers..im not sure if something is wrong with it or not, so I keep it isolated from the rest of the Sarrs.Often this indicates some type of pest infestation (aphids, scale, etc)....
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Amaury,
I'll be interested to see if your "Fused Tooth" x "Akai Ryu" cross yields any plants that retain the fused tooth character. I did this cross a few years back & only got normal VFTs. While they are robust and have good color, there are none w/ any fused tooth traps...

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If you don't mind Vincent, i'm going to wait a little with that..
For now, i'm trying to figure out what clone it is..if it's already known at all!!
I for sure cannot find it anywhere..(yet)...
If that's done..then..maybe..
A guy named Novak is involved if i remember correctly..but that's all i know..
If you're considering naming the clone, I would recommend that you grow some other fused-tooth plants to see if the plant does indeed show longer-term viable differences. IME, the fused-tooth clone has more variability than most other VFTs...
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If you haven't yet, you might also consider posting your request over on the ICPS forum. I believe there are a few local NJ/NY folks over there who don't frequent these forums (at least not often).
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Good reminder Fernando. I have not noticed many posts on this species since the initial flourish... Has this plant been established well in collections? How many people have been able to produce viable seed. Does it take 2 separate clones to produce viable seed? Lets hear from the people who have grown it - both failures & successes.....
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One of the things I've noticed is that frequently the transition from baby pitchers to adult is sudden and not gradual. It's almost like they say the time to grow up is now and then just do it.I've got that latter case right now. With toooons of baby pitchers. Here's hoping they grow a bit faster!Here's a pic from today of 2 plants that show the adult pitchers with the baby pitchers. For size reference - the pots are 2.5" (~6.5cm)

Here's a close up of the pot on the left. The large pitcher on the bottom right opened a while back and the other 2 popped their lids in the last few days.

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Paulo,
You've done a great job sharing your experiences finding & documenting some incredible plants / locations. Your photographic skills are very impressive. Thank you for taking the time & effort to post all of this so we can also experience some of your country's wonders.
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Beautiful, well-grown plants. Thanks for sharing.
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I can't say what 'commonly' is, but I just checked the dates on 2 pots and they went from rooted cutting to adult pitchers in a tad less than 6 months. On the flip side, I've had stubborn plants retain the baby pitchers for over a year (but there were lots of baby pitchers >20+).I was curious about growth speed for the pitchers. About how long did it commonly take folks to go from juvenile to adult pitchers? -
Personally I'd be somewhat concerned that something is wrong if I needed to grow a ceph fully enclosed. While many plants may need that environment (hospital zone) for a temporary period of time, I have found Cephs to be very forgiving with respect to light, humidity, media, temperatures (& probably other stuff I'm forgetting).
For the last 3-8 years, I've grown 5 adult cephs as VFT companion plants outside all summer after frost and in a basement cool room under lights all winter. They try to bloom most summers (when I haven't repotted them the previous winter). Unlike another poster, I take extra efforts to ensure they do not sit in standing water for more than a day. I also usually have one or two growing on an east-facing windowsill out in the open as well as many in various stages of growth (from leaf propagation) in a terrarium which is kept open on both ends.
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I have.I pot them when they have 2-3 leafes in normal medium and put them to the mature plants under the same conditions. They don´t need to have roots when you pot them. With this method i never lost a leafcutting.
While I agree with the 2-3 leafs part of the recommendation, I would recommend a hospital environment for the youngster (aka: humidity dome or plastic bag) until more robust growth is seen. Then a slow transition from the hospital zone to more normal growing conditions (similar to care taken when de-flasking from t/c). If you normally keep your adults in super humid conditions - this may not be necessary. Good luck w/ your efforts.
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I received some seedlings last year from a friend so I suspect that there are some out there (I don't think they were t/c). However, it does seem fairly difficult to find...In Europe at least, the plant is still comparatively rare in cultivation and unless someone is raising plants from seed, I think Bob Hanrahan's clone is the only one in circulation.It's not the fastest growing of plants in the world either.Agreed. Although my plants regularly put out new pitchers this summer, the plants did not increase in size very much at all. Mike Howlett offered a 3" plant (IIRC) in the NASC auction earlier this year. It fetched $150 USD (not bad!).
For some more details on the plant's history, here's a page from CPN.
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Maja,
For scale, can you tell us how large the black pot in the photo is?
Years ago, a friend sent a pic of one of these that he was growing. It wasn't until I visited that I saw that the entire plant was only about 1" across...
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It's unique, unusual, uncommon & a challenge - attributes many find very attractive. After having killed mine in less than a year, I must say that I appreciate Bob Z's (& Forbes) cultivation methods & skills.so why does wacky traps exist then? why do people grow it if its hardly alive?
In my experience, 'Fused-tooth' is a very vigorous mutation w/ usually only a few late-season traps that are truly non-functional (& they may function - just not 'conventionally').I have seen a huge fused tooth! It was very vigorous and large. Almost to the point that i suspect it could be tetraploid form of VFT. All parts of the plant seemed to be larger and thicker.Peter.
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@Paulo : I hope that D.aff ordensis will make seeds,if so....I will contact you ;-)
Although there have been rumors to the contrary, plants in the Petiolaris complex are neither self-fertile nor self-pollinating...
aka - Paulo shouldn't hold his breath

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Christian (& others),The temperatures in my greenhouse are usually not less than 6-7°C during the night. The day temperature depends on the sun. As soon as there is only a bit of sunshine, the temperature go up to about 20°C. In the last years there has only been a very short time in which even the day temperatures have been below 10°C. Maybe i will try to grow some "surplus" plants in the greenhouse this winter. I have forgotten to bring some plants in last year (without location), that have done very well last winter.Have you found any specific media mix to be better for D. ascendens? Any other conditions that you have found to be important? What are the highest summer temps the plants can handle before they start to suffer? (fantastic pics btw!)

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I just hope its rare, it probably isn't but there you go. thanks anywayz

Hey - it's an attractive plant w/ nice coloration. Being rare doesn't change that. Most of the oreo's are not all that good-looking.
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I had one that was 'dead' for approximately 2 months. When I went to pull it out, I noticed that the roots were still firm - so I left it in place & had new growth in a week.It has been "dead" for probably less than 2 months. I'm just going to keep it as it is and cross my fingers -
Steve,
I think I previously read about your savagery with this Ceph.
Did you lose any of the separated plants? -
Sean,
Great pics - as usual. So when do you plan to go on extended walkabout in Northern Oz & share your experiences w/ us?
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I think challenging would be an appropriate term. These are definitely not beginner plants. Until we can get more people who can consistently grow them for several years and have them regularly flower, (& ideally produce seed) I would say that they fall into a grouping of some of our more difficult plants to grow & maintain.The wooly group or petiolaris group are not hard to grow.I find them to be incredibly beautiful & rewarding but also challenging for the long term. I hope that as a group, we can sustain the interest and share growing and propagation techniques so continued, regular progress can be made and eventually these plants can be quite common. As it stands, I have concerns for the day when seed is no longer available from Mr. Lowrie......

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Thanks for the advice Andy and Aiden, think I'll try it in live sphagnum.
Just one question...... Andy you say I need to pull the leaf off with some of the rhizome attached, if I pull the leaf off without this will it not work??
While I try to get as much of the full leaf & stem as possible, they seem to be less sensitive to missing a piece of rhizome than VFTs. Be patient, it may take a while .... If the leaf stays green, good things are going on below the surface.

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Beautiful, deep coloration in those plants. They appear very healthy - congratulations! Thanks for sharing.

Strange Cephalotus trap/leaf
in Cephalotus
Posted
Here's a few unusual leaves from a plant I transplanted last fall:
Deformed lid...
Combination leaf & pitcher ...
Full plant for scale (Styrofoam cup ~3.5" / 9 cm)(I removed all pitchers when I transplanted)