RL7836
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Posts posted by RL7836
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I've been watching a 'flattened' pitcher develop on one of my 'Hummer's Giant' plants - noticed this thread & thought I'd share it as a comparison.
Top view w/ regular pitcher
Side view w/ other pitchers
While I've had some pitchers develop a flat or pushed-in side before, I think this is my 1st w/ 2 flat sides...
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Harvesting has been a bit of a challenge for me as I keep the flowering plants outside during the summer. If there is a breeze once they "open like a starfish" - poof - the seeds from that flower are gone on the wind. Once the seeds are starting to ripen, I try to check them in the morning & afternoon & grab them when they're somewhat free...I rarely need to pollinate, the plants manage OK by themselves.the hairy seeds (technically pods?, there is a small oval, sesame-seed like seed inside) will start green then as they ripen go paler and then brown and spread open like a starfish. Be warned that as soon as they go brown they will fall off and being light will blow away. I harvest mine slightly early to avoid losing them.
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This is the case for those of us who arrived late to the party. I have been checking back at different times of the day and continue to see the same message - I was under the impression that Photobucked had a daily access limit & reset after 24-hrs. This does not appear to be the case ....I only see one image, the rest say "bandwidth exceeded, upgrade to pro."
Quite the nasty bit of torture to have so many folks gushing about the pics & then have them not present ......
Maybe I can get a few other late-comers to join me and pay for the upgrade for Andreas ....
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Olivier,
While I don't know that it answers your question, there's an interesting D. linearis thread with some good info, if you haven't seen it ....
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Petr,
While I don't know the best time to separate seedlings, based on a post from Andreas F. (see below), I pulled 2 D. ascendens babies out from a group similar to yours and potted them separately. These 2 plants were more than twice the size of the others before I decided to go ahead & pot all of them with their own pots.
From Andreas Fleischmann post on Aug 11, 2007:
And if you have planted too much seed in one pot, you probably have noticed that germination is either poor, or -in case mass germination occured- a few seedlings will increase in size while the rest is not growing at all. Repotting will help in this case. The reason for this phenomenon is not only competition for nutrients, but so called "allelopathic effects", too. Most plants produce a certain mix of chemicals which is dissolved to the soil by their roots to limit innerspecific competition (you can even visualize this if you grew the plants in vitro: the growth medium is getting brownish around the plant's roots!). In their natural habitats, this effect does not matter much: as most CPs grow in soils with seeping water, inhibitors are washed away fast. But in cultivation this effect matters well: 5 Drosera individuals of the same species grown together in a 1 L container won't be that big and vigorous than 5 plants grown separately in five 0.2 L pots ;)BTW, that's the explanation why you will usually find the best looking plant of a certain species not in the pot you have sown it in, but in a neigbouring pot, where a single seed grain accidentally dropped in ;)
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Dave,I've got an N.hamata that has been growing for me for about 18 months and is approx 1 inch across.Do you have any pics you can share? I recently got 2 little guys from TC. Neither had any roots upon arrival but both have been putting out new leaves & inflating larger pitchers with each leaf. Hopefully I won't find out that they still have no roots in 18 months ...
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You might want to lure elgecko into sharing his experiences as he grows N. aristolochioides, N hamata & some others in his kitchen ... - although he does have a 'magic window' ....
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When I let my outside Cephs flower, they set seed whether I helped to pollinate or not (& seemed to have more seed the year I did not 'help').
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When I buried D. regia roots, I had little to no success. When I placed the roots in small trenches & either left them fully or partially exposed to light - I had many strikes.
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I've experimented with a number of 'peat & stuff' mixes and haven't found any that strongly differentiate themselves from the others. I'm currently using a 50:50 organic/inorganic mix (ie: 1 part peat, 1 part chopped live LFS / 1 part perlite, 1 part sand) but I continue to play with different proportions. I've also grown them in 100% peat for several years with no noticeable difference.What type of media do you put the new sprout in?Imho, these guys are strong (but slow) growers that want to live. As long as they get some time to dry out a bit (or at least not sitting in stagnant water 24/7), they'll be fine...
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This thread was referenced in another recent post and got me to pondering.... Are there other Drosera which have apparent long-distance relationships like D. meristocaulis & the pygmies? D. sessilifolia & D. burmanni come to mind - another odd South America / Oz combo. Others?
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Live Sphagnum works best for me, the cuttings don't mind being wet at all and seem more resilient than adults in this respect.
Dave,I normally use live sphag for mine though have done it in peat mixes too, doesnt matter what time of year it is for me as I always do them under grow lights keeping them warm, humid and moist to wet and have a pretty good success rate........I'll do a 'me-too' on this. In one of my terrariums under lights, I have live LFS growing between the pots. When I place leaf cuttings in this LFS, I've gotten 100% strikes for the past several years. However, because the LFS will grow over the small, emerging plants - it is a bit of a pain and I've also lost some plants when trying to transfer the small plant from the mass of LFS to a pot. For the past 6-9 months, I've used a variation that has worked well. I wrap the tip of the new cutting in a sprig of live LFS and place this in a pot of media. This combines the live LFS with the advantage of the newly emerged small ceph already being in it's 1st pot - so no transplant mishaps...
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I'll be curious to see what 'petio-experts' have to say ...
I believe the normal expectation is that their seed is not very time-dependent.My experience has been that very fresh seed has great germination. Older seed is more hit & miss. Storage conditions may play a role...
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Mine have faired best with 'humidity domes' over them (actually - to be perfectly honest, I can't really keep them alive without a covering).the question now really is: should I put some kind of humid-retaining dome (or plastic bag etc) over it, or not?
If you haven't yet seen them, here are a few other informational threads on these guys - here, here and here.
Once you get them going, they're quite easy to propagate via leaves or roots. Since they can be somewhat temperamental, it's probably a good idea to have some spares around...
I'm now waiting to see if my 'mother' plant, which has supplied 50-80 babies over the past few years will recover from the roots (waited too long to repot after it started to decline). I guess I shouldn't have ignored it's not-so-subtle pleas... Thankfully, I've got 10+ plants coming along... -
I experimented with a myriad of different mixes (mostly permutations of peat, chopped live LFS, sand (3 grain sizes) & perlite) and found no discernible difference with any of the petios. This group of plants has a significant history of frustrating growers with apparently unexplainable deaths - although several growers have now apparently found methods that have high rates of success....
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Carlos,
Thanks for sharing the pics. It is very interesting to see the variability in the different locations for D. ascendens and also see the very elongated petioles of D. villosa. I am growing some D. villosa from this location but at their current rate of growth, they will be the size of yours in about 5 years! I am really looking forward to seeing their adult form.
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This is an excellent thread - I frequently send folks over to read it when they have questions (much quicker - since almost all questions are answered). Shame that it's not a 'sticky'....
As an FYI, I place mine in an east-facing window where they get a few hours of direct sun each morning. The water doesn't get hot and the results have been excellent.When the cuttings are still in water just let them have indirect sunlight only, they might start to cook in direct sunlight!As would be expected, since the 2 parents work well with this method, D. x hybrida (filiformis*intermedia) does also - here's a recent pic (in a test tube):
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Carlos,
Thanks for sharing pics of your beautiful utric flowers! U. reniformis flowers are my favorite CP bloom. Every time I see one - I'm forced to smile - they always remind me of a person's face - pointy nose & fat cheeks ...
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I'm curious what characteristics prompted the assumption / conclusion that the VFT malady pictured is a virus vs a fungal infection?
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A number of people have reported good seed set with no attempts at pollination (iirc - Bob Z being one) - so it may not be necessary.
Last summer I went to the trouble of trying to pollinate 4 - 5 stalks of flowers. My seed set was mediocre. One reason may be that in my haste to do each flower, I 'jammed' the brush into the flower a bit too deeply with some flowers. This resulted in the brush becoming soaked with nectar (and I suspect a nectar-soaked brush kept pollen rather than sharing it).
As recommended by Jonathon above, wait until you can see the yellow pollen - otherwise you're probably wasting your time. In addition iirc, the stigma changes shape (opens up) to indicate maturity / receptivity (like a VFT).
This summer, I plan to let nature do all the work and see how she does...
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Barry Rice just posted an update on the status of the introduced plants in this bog over here. For those interested, a prior thread on Albion was posted here.
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Good description of my methodology also!!Don't look at me. I grow these with more luck than judgement!!
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Phil Sheridan can probably tell you if there are var rugelli from this county in VA. He's aware of every flava plant in the state...Hi,I have received recently a flava var. rugelii with location data. It comes from Prince George Co., and as I have seen on many lists (and after searching in Google), this county is in Virginia. Of course, rugelii doesn't grows in this state (almost that's what I think).
Have any other Prince George County in Georgia or Florida, or maybe my plant is mislabelled and isn't really a rugelii? (of course, I can wait for new leaves for explain the information)
Petiolaris Drosera seedlings
in Carnivorous Plants in Cultivation
Posted
Stunning colors! What lighting are you using (& what distance)?