RL7836
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Posts posted by RL7836
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Fantastic pics of a very interesting / beautiful species. Thanks for sharing!
How did you space the egg hatching to have several different age caterpillars?
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You seem to be supporting my case ... From wiki (bold from me):I think that if you divide them occasionally, they remain strong.At least that's the case with mine.
Surprisingly, the mother plant of U. arenaria was very slow and seemed weak to me, but the selfed seed it produced grew at a phenomenal rate.
.... and some more from Martin:Utricularia arenaria is a small annual carnivorous plant that belongs to the genus Utricularia.And you can force those annuals into another two or three seasons. But I have stopped that. First, this is not natural. And second - vigour will go down more and more, it will never look like in its first spring. -
For sure - that's the default. However, I understand from other posts that a number of these guys are annuals and gradually get weaker on their own. Seeds can be traded across borders - plants - not so much (at least legally - for me) and seeds can be stored as an insurance policy in my frig.Why not take divisions instead of selfing plants until they become weak?In addition, if I know that a species is a self-seeder, I'll take some extra precautions to keep it away from the others.
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Over the past few months, I've acquired several species of small Utrics. Because I'd like to collect seed where possible and also want to avoid having unwanted seed scattered among other species pots - I would like information on the pollination requirements for different species. I'll start by listing the information I've found (not necessarily accurate - feel free to differ). If there are sources where this information is available - please share ...
U. subulata - weed that requires no pollination intervention & often sets seed without even flowering (cleistogamous flowering)
U. bisquamata - sets seed without intervention - freely spewing seeds into nearby pots
U. bisquamata 'Betty's Bay' - manual pollination required
U. sandersonii ('normal' bunny ears) - free flowering but will not produce seed - even if manually pollinated
U. sandersonii 'blue' - ??
U. graminifolia - ??
U. livida - ??
U. blanchetii - ??
U. parthenopipes - ??
U. warburgii - ??
U. uniflora - ??
U. tricolor - (not that I'll ever get a bloom) 8^) - ??
U. nephrophylla - ??
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Very interesting observation that had not occurred to me. The leaves are quite close to the lights - possibly creating an unfavorable micro-climate. The previous owner had them outside in full sun - so i figured brighter was better ...it is a fungal disease, a fungicide should help at first. Then check out the conditions - there must be something that weakens your plant. 5 cm below the lights may be the problem. I do not know where you check the temperatures - but so close to the lights you will have a local dry and hot area, that the plant doesn`t like.
There seems to be a consensus growing on this. The plants originated from the seed giveaway where Travis distributed seed from Barry Rice's plant - which I believe was selfed. I'll see if Barry will chime in with some info ...BTW - your plant doesn´t look like U. humboldtii to me either, maybe a humboldtii hybrid. -
The 3 plants all arrived with pointy 'leaves' but all the new ones are rounded. A juvenile/immature trait?I've never seen U.humboldtii with pointy leaves before!
Someone on another forum had a bad experience w/ fungicide. Good to know that your experience has been different. All 3 plants continue to put up new leaves & aerial stolons at this time. I immersed the affected plant in a trichoderma bath (both for possible antifungal affects & also to drown possible critters). If I see any additional 'melting' I'm going to hit it with a fungicide.Utrics have no problems with fungicides in my experience, I'd give them some.I have this disease on some of my utrics. Haven't figured out how to get rid of it though...
Not really what I wanted to hear ... 
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On Aug 10, I received 3 U. humboldtii plants growing together in a pot of live LFS. I separated them into their own pots - 2 into 100% live LFS and the other in a peat, live LFS, sand, aps mix. Since the repotting, all 3 plants have grown well - put up new leaves & 2 of the 3 have also put up aerial stolons. All 3 are growing in my basement with temps in the middle 60's (~18.9*C) at night and lower 70's (~22.2*C) during the day (*F).
3 days ago I notice that the largest of the 3 plants (in live LFS) developed a reduction in diameter on the stalk of it's newest developing leaf. Today, this developing leaf wilted to the side from this smaller section of stalk. In addition, the leaf that formed 2 weeks ago (largest one on the plant) has darkened significantly and is severely wilted. This pot is sitting in a tray with 1/8 - 1/4" of water & the leaves are ~2" (~5 cm) below 2 T-8 fluorescent lamps.
There are no other visible changes. Other utrics nearby are still growing well (so far) - including the 2 other U. humboldtii from the original pot.
This has the appearance of a fungal attack. Have others experienced this? What are the recommended approaches to resolve this? Is there any hope or should I remove the plant to try & keep the pathogen from spreading? All input is welcome (& greatly appreciated).
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Edit to add additional info & pics:
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If I wasn't clear up above, this problem is characterized by a rapid onset wilting of 2 leaves - one was a newly emerged leaf and not yet full size (now gone). The other leaf was the newest full size leaf and had completely grown since the plants were repotted. Based on this - the problem doesn't seem to be related to shipping or repotting shock.
Since I originally posted - the other possibility that occurred to me is some type of munching critter eating away at the below ground growth. Are utrics like dews in being sensitive to most pesticides?
Here's a pic of the plant. The new leaf that disintegrated was at ~7 o'clock from the 3 primary leaves (in the lower depression). The aerial stolon also originates from this group and goes into another pot off to the right. The 3 original leaves have not significantly changed since I received the plants. Although it cannot be seen in the pic - there is also another new shoot just emerging from this original group of leaves.
Leaf closeup.
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Greg just posted pics of the 3 on the VCPS listserver...Greg-Bourke's 'Got'-R-Swag-of-'em. Beg-Him for-R Photo-X-posy on Said-Topic. >(*U^)< -
Selfed or crossed with another clone?No, if I may answer that question with my limited U. arnhemica experience. I had to assist and was able to harvest a few seeds (but really only a few) from that seed pod. -
While mine have been truly glacial with their growth (see pic below), two friends have plants that have a much more normal growth pattern (one is blooming this year).As far as I know, there are fewer than 20 luteola plants in Europe. It is painfully slow to increase, but there are some seedlings now in the UK.I received 3 small seedlings early in 2007. Each year, the plants regularly add pitchers but show only a small increase in size. Since this is my 3rd summer with them, I was expecting them to be much larger. Here's a pic I took a few days ago of my largest 'seedling'...
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If you're looking for babies, try this thread.
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My best results have been in water (RO), followed by live LFS (although it's a pain due to constant growth). Have not had good success with pure peat or peat mixes.
Some dews don't respond real well to leaf propagation. For those, root propagation usually works...
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This statement continues to haunt me. I've been growing them for something over 10 years & figured that I was 'safe' with my conditions. Now, you've let me know that my security may be an illusion...I never encountered this for the first 21 years of growing cephs so sure would like to know what changed last year!!
By any chance, did you bring any new plants into your collection in the prior few months? Do you use Trichoderma?
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Agreed. If you want more plants, pull a leaf or 2 (carefully) & place them in live LFS. In a while - new plants! (Much cheaper this way...)Looks perfectly healthy to me.
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My thoughts also. I have a B52 that looks to be ~42mm. I keep telling it to grow more but it's not listening.My biggest one this year if from my Slack's Giant at 42mm. Not worth showing a pic unless it grows bigger than 43mm, as enry is in the lead!
Any awards for largest across the pond? 
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Carlos,
Congratulations on some great pics of very healthy / happy utricularia. I especially like the flowers of U. nelumbifolia - very beautiful!!
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Great videos! Thanks for sharing them - the 2nd one with the mite is really amazing!
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Last year I noticed that my 'mother' plant was looking a bit ragged - not growing as well as it usually did. Days & then weeks went by with me noticing the same thing each time I looked at it & promising myself that I would repot it very soon. Finally, one day I noticed not only had the leaves gotten continually smaller but that there was a browning of the plant in the center where new leaves emerged. Of course now, I dropped what I was doing & repotted the plant in new live LFS. Too late. I lost the plant that had provided many babies over the past few years. How stupid of me!!
I took my largest 'baby' plant** and placed it into a 4" pot of live LFS. After a few months, I purchased a culture of wingless fruit flies for some of my other plants (D. ascendens & D. villosa) and decided to try them with the schizzy. To my surprise, contrary to D'Amato's statements, the plant really took off with more growth than I've ever seen. I grew my 'mother' plant for a number of years & never had the notched leaf the plant is named for. Recently, the fed plant had it's 1st ...
For folks who can provide humid highland conditions and like a challenge, schizzies are some great plants. I can't believe that people didn't jump all over Jefforever's recent sale of some nice-sized, healthy plants....
Here's a top view:
Different angle (check out the dew on the leaf at 3 o'clock!):
The notch (... those bugs are volunteers - not WFF's):
** - largest 'baby' was ~1" diameter. While initially, it might take a while to dial in conditions that schizzies enjoy (unless you're Pyro or Jeff), once you find them, these dews are super easy to propagate via root or leaf cuttings (see pics in growlist).
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Although not exactly a beginner's plant, D. schizandra probably needs less light than any other dew. I typically have one in the north window in my office fall, winter & spring (until it gets too warm in the summer).adelae would be my first choice -
I've used different flakes for Drosera as well as pulverized bloodworms. They induce strong/fast growth (as would be expected). However, as mentioned, in humid environments - mold is an issue. If you're willing to do the work, feed Wingless Fruit Flies. Feed the plants and after ~3 days - clean them off of the leaf. This is one of the 'tricks' Dr. Frankensnyder uses for his exceptional results w/ Drosera ... If mold starts, wipe w/ 70% IPA.Anyone else with experience with this?When using flakes or bloodworms in pitchers (Neps, Cephs, etc), there is a tendency for some or all to float on the liquid. Mold can start growing & fill the pitcher - quite ugly. Small mealworms or ants work great if you've got the time... (as does dilute liquid fertilizer applied in pitcher) ...
Foliar fertilization has not produced the same extent of rapid growth as other methods (for me) & also creates the problem of slime, algae growth on the media from overspray. Hate that.
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Beautiful pics & plant - thanks for sharing.
What temperatures do you keep the plant in & how deep is the container? How bright are your lights?
Interestingly, even though the leaves stay underwater most of the time, the algae has not returned....
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Snowflake is truly an impressive flower. Thanks for sharing!
(Take a pic w/ black paper behind it & you've got a winner in the photo contest!)
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However, not quite sure thatthanks Stephen, didn't know they could adapt to full sun. :)"Sun in England" = "Sun in Columbia"
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I used to have fungus gnats all around my tanks. Then I stuck some form of very gooey Drosera in each tank (ie: adelae is much better than rotundifolia). Now I rarely see any gnats ...Oh, that must have felt horrible..
I've had more problems with gnats... They lay their eggs to the soil and the larvae eat the roots of the plants. They were about to kill my Genlisea, but luckily I got some leaf cuttings before they destroyed it totally. Then I tossed the old soil outside to a pile of snow. There they are frozen now. 
South Brazil - Imbituva, PR
in Carnivorous Plants in Habitat
Posted
Carlos,
Thanks for sharing the pics!
Looking at your U. tricolor flower pics, I couldn't help but notice their similarity to some of the 'macro' utrics (like reniformis or nelumbifolia). Has anyone ever attempted a cross?