Full Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Altair

  1. OMG! It's snowing like hell here! My poor plants
  2. here are some winter pics, nothing special but I like them Drosera capensis, 4 years old plants H. folliculata Murosipan Tepui Generally I don't like sarracenia hybrids but I think this is awesome: Guess what species are mixed ;) This is my only decent nepenthes, N. lavicola telong. Other neps are all cuttings without pitchers. Frozen S. psittacina and U. monanthos {Stewart Island, NZ} D. pulchella waking up Frozen S. purpurea venosa Not very healty H. pulchella, I hope it'll recover. Ruby sphagnum looks better XD. nice furry sarracenia hybrid, maybe rubra introgressed with purpurea venosa. It's too young to say for sure.
  3. Only 2 flower buds are visible on my flava maxima but here we have low temperatures (0°C min 12°C max)
  4. thanks for the advices, I'll control the new pitchers. If they'll get the same problem without overfeed I'll treat the plant.
  5. oh, I've seen this topic only today . Thanks for the replies, I solved the botritis problem by keeping the plant very dry. I grow it in a dead sphagnum , peat and perlite mix, watering only when the spaghum became white. I got only one flower last winter, then I divide the plant. After the division and repot it stops growing but now the plant is producing 4 flower scapes! I hope it will bloom well.
  6. Ok, thanks for the reply. I cut the pitcher in the middle. I'm sure the plant got too much preys: the pitchers liquid is black. All the parametres are right, I water the plant only when the live sphagnum in the surface starts to became white, the humidity is low (I don't have an hygrometer but i keep the plants in an open terrarium, very close to the lights), the temperatures vary from 25°C during the day and 8°C at night. Is there a way to "clean" the pitchers from the excess of preys? I really have a lot of midges in the terrarium and they enjoy doing bungee jumping down to my tatei pitcers. Maybe aboundant water from above, inside the pitchers will simulate a rain, washing out the dead rotting insects.
  7. Hi, last spring I bought a H. tatei var tatei. I keep the plant in an highland terrarium, 25 - 30°C day and 10°C night. This winter I have a lot of midge in the terrarium and I think the plant has an overfeeding problem: the yougest pitcher starts rotting at the middle, then becomes yellowish on the top and now is going to completely rot. Is rhizome in danger? Sould I cut all the pitcher from the base? I know that Tatei hate to get its pitchers cut. Last week: Today: Thanks, Vale
  8. Very cool What kind of microscope is it?
  9. Thanks for the infos, my terrarium has 25 °C during the day but it goes down to 8 °C at night now, so I'd better wait next spring to germinate the seeds. Cheers, Vale
  10. nobody helps? :mrgreen:
  11. Here I am, last Halloween acting as "The Soul Reaver" :mrgreen:
  12. I won some Drosera esmeraldae seeds and now I need some advices. I know it's from Venezuela, but is it lowland or highland? Substrate and watering? I have an highland terrarium, can I grow this species like an Heliamphora or does it need different conditions? Thanks, Vale
  13. Hi! I got my U. alpina 2 years ago. I've always kept it on a terrarium in sphagnum, peat and perlite, the substrate not too wet. Temperature range is from 30 to 25°C day - 15 to 8°C at night The plant flowered this summer, but I often have problems with botritis. I control it using sulphur that always solve the problem. I need more infos on how to grow this species and how/where it lives in the wild (altitude, temperatures, etc...). Thanks, Al
  14. It's a bit of sulphur I gave this summer to solve a little botritis problem.
  15. Thanks for the nice comments I keep the pulchella 2" far from an acquarium neon (§Aquaristica Hi lite 18W 10 000°K). H. nutans is under an Osram fluora 18W/77 but the red color depends more on temperature range than light, 'cause it's a bit far from the lamp. The third tube is a simple philips with a very yellow light.
  16. Hi, this morning I repotted my U. alpina so I took some pics of the root system. The plant: Tubers: A division: Heliamphora nutans juvenile pitcher: Heliamphora pulchella in ruby sphagnum: Cheers,
  17. Thanks! The plant will probably flower next spring: I'll take more pics of the flower.
  18. This is a 3 years old plant grown from seed. It seems to be a leucophylla but the red color in the troath is strange. Is it a 100% leucophylla or is it a plant introgressed with rubra? Thanks,
  19. Thanks! The flower is 2 cm. The flower stalk is up to 5 cm long but it depends on water level. There are only 2 flowers in the first stalk, I'll check the others.
  20. After 2 years my U. purpurea has finally flowered I grow it in a big container (80 x 55 x 35h cm) accompanied by marsh plants, decomposed phragmites leaves and peat at the bottom and rain water. Direct sunlight in the morning and a CO2 reactor.
  21. I think it's australis 8) I took a picture last year: you can see the differences between the two flowers
  22. I think it's a Pinguicula "Tina"
  23. Very interesting topic! I got this plant from a swap, labelled as P. "weser" but I think it is more like a P. "sethos". What do you think?
  24. This winter my P. agnata splitted into three crowns, produsing this weird flower. I think there are three flowers fused together. Two flowers are completely fused: The third flower is smaller and isolated: