Cephalotus

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Everything posted by Cephalotus

  1. Does anyone know what kind of rock it grows on in the natural habitat? I can't find any information regarding it on the Internet.
  2. Congratulations. :) It is so tiny though. Any tips on how you did it?
  3. It is not a Metzgeria sp., which has a strong, easily visible, central "nerve". The one above does not have any and the photo does not have to be sharp to notice that. There was a time when I was very much interested in mosses and I still remember some more common ones from their look. Beside Metzgeria sp. is more like a mountain species, prefers colder ecosystems, wile Riccardia sp. is a lot more widespread and heat tolerant genus.
  4. It can overgrow some very tiny plants, that is true, but I haven't seen it causing any serious damage to any of them, except making them to compete for the light. But such observation I have with other mosses and very small plants. I think that under the water roots will have less oxygen than with a layer of mosses on the soil. And yet we often even submerge some Genlisea and Utricularia without negative effects. This moss is Riccardia sp. Maybe R. multifida, maybe some other, impossible to tell from a photo.
  5. I can see there only a moss, not even a single leaf of U. busquamata/subulata. I don't remember its name, but I know it well. Later I can check my books and try to identify it more or less.
  6. Yeah, I saw it. I wasn't expecting it to have 1 meter long leafs or more, otherwise, it would be dangerous to grow this at home outside a cage. But that is still very impressing. :)
  7. I took a measure and placed 1,5 m by my side, that is just insane. 1 m would be ridiculous, but 1,5 makes it just unbelievable. I just have to see that plant one day. For now we can just wait patiently. I pity that there is no benchmark to the photos of it in the wild, like human hand. The plant itself looks really great. Calling it Drosera magnifica is probably the best name since it is just magnificent.
  8. I must really be sure... Do you really mean 1,5 meter?!! That is terrifying... it does not run after its prey, does it? Are there any photos of it I would LOVE to see some.
  9. Cephalotus

    Temperatures

    Not with a thermometer, no, but with a finger only. You should know, that I don't grow my Cephalotus in small pots which can easily heat up. I have them in a 45L large "pot". (http://toptools.com.pl/images/allegro_foto/PMD-5091.jpg) I don't know the proper word to describe that plastic box I use. Although, the soil near the surface and walls is very warm, true, the deeper, the cooler the soil is. Such volume does not heat up within a few hours.
  10. Cephalotus

    Temperatures

    Some time ago, mine had 34*C (93*F) in shade and it was in full sun for the most of the day, including midday. It looked totally normal in such conditions. Now the temperatures are much colder like 20*C (68*F). I think that until the soil itself is not heating too much, it can withstand much more heat.
  11. It looks like a bit like U. lateriflora, although the shape of the flower is odd... Could you show the leafs?
  12. Well... How it could not be similar to U. campbelliana if it grows in same region, have similar flower colour, is from the same group of plants and have the same ancestor? But the colour is still amazing.
  13. It is G. glandulosissima, but the flower is deformed. If it will flower again properly, we will see if it is a true albino or not.
  14. I kept one outside and it survived well temperatures around 3-5*C, even night frosts like -1/-2*C. Eventually it died during lower, regular frosts (it was in a pot). I don't know how long it could survive in gourd in so low temperatures. Maybe some small plastic cover to protect it from wind would be a good idea... But there is a chance for regular form to survive in this zone. Either way, there is a point in trying.
  15. You are asking about the species I listed or all Genlisea? Because only G. aurea should be grown with water near the soil, level, on it, or slightly above. This species very much like to have wet conditions. If it goes for G. margaretae and G. glandulosissima, in the nature they grow in shallow water, just under the water surface, rarely deeper or above it. In cultivation, they don't need such conditions to grow properly. G. repens also does not need to grow under water, it can, in wild it sometimes grow like that, but it does not need it at all to grow properly. I forgot to mention G. sanariapoana, which also grows always under water, under thin film of water mostly. It is not in cultivation though, which is a pity, since it has very nice flowers.
  16. A few species can be constantly grown in water, but it will be rather shallow layer of water. If I remember correctly G. angolensis could also grow deeper in water similar to G. guianensis, but you won't be able to get any of those. Those which can grow in just under the water surface are: G. aurea G. repens G. margaretae G. glandulosissima (I would have to check if any other species.)
  17. Definitely clay pot will better give away heat, but also humidity, so the pot should more likely stand in shallow water during plants growth. Taiwan you say... Well, I don't really know what weather you have there, but it does not really sound good for Tuberous Drosera cultivation. they go dormant when temperature is longer above 20*C and wake up when it drops for longer time below 20*C. Could you write how long you have temperatures regularly below 20*C? If not much, than how you manage to grow them at all? Do you have some sort of cooling system?
  18. I treat all the same. During cold days in their growing season they all have humid soil, not wet. when I keep them outside and there is rain I allow them to have t, but than I don't allow them to stand in water. I have high pots around 20 cm or so and 1-2 cm of water level, occasionally I allow it to dry out and than water again. I don't divide to more water resistant and less. Providing constantly humid soil is working very well. When the dormancy approaches, when a species starts to go dormant I stop watering it at all and allow soil to dry out. It never dries out to bone, there is always some residual humidity deep in the soil which in my plastic pots works very well. In clay pots the soil would dry to the bone, in whole depth, but I don't know if that would be good.
  19. The Pygmy Drosera looks to me like Drosera ericksoniae.
  20. In 5 attempts of self pollination I manages to receive 3 seed bags swelling. I have no idea when they will mature and if there will be any viable seeds, but I hope so. Does anyone know if this species can be crossed with any other epiphytic species?
  21. I strongly suspect, that you have too cold during some nights. I noticed on my Tuberous Drosera, that some don't mind small frosts, and others does. On the beginning I was experimenting on them to write a bottom line of their hardiness. Wile one grew quite normally, other were killed by -2/-3*C. I mean the above parts, not the plant in total. It is nothing weird, since they normally don't have frosts in the wild. Temperatures around 0-5*C at lowest I think. I would suggest to protect your plants from having frosts at night, if that is possible. Maybe from all the species you have D. tuberosa is the most sensitive. That is my suggestion. Night temperatures I find 5-10*C as optimal, but sometimes I have even 3*C and they all do fine, unless some cat does not trample them. :/
  22. Outdoor greenhouse tells barely anything... There are more vital factors, than you wrote about like temperature or soil humidity. They can have great effect on plants. For now I still know not much about how you grow them. I don't know how you water them, what are the temperatures (day, night), the soil mix sounds okay. The light does not matter, since they are red, unless it is too near them and heat them up much.
  23. It would be good if you gave any additional information about how you grow it. It is hard to determine the reason just from a photo and nothing else to it...
  24. I wanted to share my experience regarding U. mannii cultivation. Most of it will be same as Damien wrote, some will be slightly different. I grow it in 7 cm high pot. The soil is thick fibred Sphagnum moss with perlite in proportions of around 1:1. On the surface I placed some living, thick fibred Sphagnum moss. Why that one, because it is way slower grower than thing fibred one. It has constantly around 1-2 cm of water. 100% humidity all the time. No air movement seems not to be any problem in the temperatures it has. They are around 10-15*C during the night and 20-25*C during the day. Very occasionally it has up to 30*C, but it is a few days in a year. I use fluorescent light 120W (4x 30W) from a distance of around 30 cm. 12-14h a day. More during summer, less during winter and of course the temperatures are also slightly warmer during the summer, but still the most important is the day and night amplitude. It had a slow start, when it took it around 2,5 month to start growing from a bulb, but when the first "leafs" appeared, it started growing much better. I wonder if it is growing year round or it has a kid of dry season when it goes dormant or something... Maybe when more flowers will open I will try to self pollinate them.
  25. U. biloba does not have to be grown much submerged. It prefers to have water on the soil level and only occasionally, temporarily submerged in 0,5-1cm water. But it will grow just fine with water constantly near the soil level. It depends on what you want to have, an aquatic looking plant or a flowering one. Have a look here: http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=47987