Cephalotus

Hello everyone, I am searching for information about Sarracenia with unique flowers - double colour, orange or any other unusual variant. It is generally hard to find any information regarding that topic, because except pure species with orange flowers, hybrids are rarely described by the colour of their flowers. I am searching for names and crossings. It would be great if you also had examples of their flowers too. I know that basically for most growers the pitchers are the esence of the plant, but the flowers are also the ornament of it. I really look forward for your examples. For now I know, that S. x excellens or S. x 'Dino Almacolle' have double colour flowers and S. "Brook's Hybrid" has orange ones. I hope you can enrich this information with your own.

I measured the maximum water level in different places. In the lowest part, where I have tall Sarracenia like S. leucophylla and some hybrids, the highest water water level is 11 cm below the soil surface. The soil was soaked wet after rain refill and the plants produced short root system. Plants had large phyllodia. They were planted same long ago as other plants. Those plants I replanted higher. Because I moved some plants to new bog garden, I also had a chance to compare roots of a plant from higher region where the water level was 21 cm below the surface. The root system was almost twice as long and there were much more side roots. I should have thought of taking a comparison photo. :/ According to my knowledge the better developed root system, the better pitchers. I already tried U. monanthos and U. dichotoma. Both lived through the winter without a problem. I don't know which other I could try. The first one is flowering (and it is setting seeds without a problem), the second one will flower this year! I can't wait to see that. I already know, that both Utricularia like to grow in wet conditions. The water level should be near the soil surface, but they don't need to be submerged. They grow fine up to water level 10 cm below the surface. The wetter, the better they grow, and in drier conditions they will thrive, but won't flower. They need loads of sun, so open space not covered with higher plants. In partial shade they won't flower, just grow super slowly.

Hi Martin, I think, that the way Sarracenia are growing is related to the soil humidity and cleaning treatments. If the soil humidity is too high the plants will go into phyllodia instead of pitchers. That problem doesn't reffer to S. oreophila and its hybrids, but this species is also very prone to rottong during the winter, so from the beginning it landed in the highest point with lowers humidity. This year I am moving some of the Sarracenia up to lower humidity, because they are all made of phyllodia. Also I learned, that if you clean the plants out of the old leaves too much, that would also effect them in a bad way. In first spring I cleaned them to the ground and that didn't end well. This year I left like 1/2-2/3 of the old leaves so the plants gad better start and that worked like a charm. Here is D. arcturi. This summer I planted rest of mine out. Turion: About a month ago: Drosera binata I planted a few forms and I already don't know which ones are where exactly. I planted regular one, which is not self pollinating, typ small (which produces selfpollinated seeds) and var. dichotoma (not self pollinating). All of them live. They loose the above the ground parts, but grow back every year. The Fastest growing is thr one covered with sphagnum. Their first flowers just oppened, but I haven't taken their pictures yet. Here is one photo from last year (from this year is above).

Which one do you have in mind? I am happy you like it, I leaned a lot with it too.

Hello everyone, I wish to share with you some photos of a bog garden I made in my parents-in-law's garden. It is located in south center Poland. Hardiness zone 6B. Last autumn there was -15°C (5°F). Basically all plants lived through that including D. arcturi. That peat bog is in its third year after building. In some places it is too wet and Sarracenia produce phyllodia more than pitchers, so the soil humidity is the key factor for nice pitchers. Of course direct sunlight is also super important. I am experimenting with species, that might be hardy like U. dichotoma and U. monanthos and proved to be hardy. Darlingtonia califormica also lived well, but I think, that too much Seramis in previous mix might have caused its regress, so now it will have regular Sphagnum:perlite mixture. I hope it will improve now. I suspect D. regia could be also hardy, which I will check on the second peat bog made last year. This peat bog proved me that even in center Poland Sarracenia can look as good as in a glass house. I take basically no care of it. I visit it from time to time. I also don't have to water it, since it has around 600l water reservoir built inside it, so it keeps enough moisture to live through the most hottest days. Only when the Sphagnum dries too much I water it or refill the water reservoir a bit, because I don't want the Sphagnum to look unattractive. I should make a third acidic beat bog for Sphagnum carpet specifically, so it would keep loads of moisture, but there are not that many attractive plants I could plant there... and there is no space for it. I hope that below photos will inspire some of you to create one in your own garden if you have a possibility to. Hope you enjoy! S. 'Carnilandia' Sarracenia oreophila x S. alata 'black tube' Sarracenia flava var. ornata x S. oreophila "De Kalb" clone B Sarracenia flava var. ornata (Giardino Carnivoro) In front: Sarracenia leucophylla x S. flava var. rugelii X S. x moorei 'Adrian Slack' clone 1 Sarracenia leucophylla Very white, thin red veins. Meeting Mira S. Leucophylla L30 Red & White Sarracenia 'Dino Almacolle' H126 Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora F102 Sarracenia flava red tube x S. alata red H26 Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora F161 L: Sarracenia flava var. ornata F47, R: Sarracenia flava var. rubricorpora F161 (Mike King) S. 'Tygo' Sarracenia x excellens Eddie Bates H152 Od lewej: S. flava var. flava, Anthocyanin free. Shallotte, S. 'Goldie', S. 'Leah Wiklerson' z prawej: S. 'Leah Wilkerson' x S. 'Adrian Slack' Sarracenia flava var. atropurpurea clone F130G S. oreophila O22 From left: S. flava var. flava, Anthocyanin free. Shallotte, S. 'Goldie', S. 'Leah Wiklerson', on the right: S. 'Leah Wilkerson' x S. 'Adrian Slack' Front plain: S. 'Judith Soper', back plain: S. leucophylla L31A x ‘A Porais’ S. alata var. ornata Heavy vein A16 Calopogon tuberosus D. fuschii var. alba D. fuschii var. alba Eleorchis japonica Eleorchis japonica var. alba Pogonia ophioglossoides Carex pulicaris Drosera binata - does very well grows to its full potential and flowers very well too. There are many on the peat bog, but it is hard to take a good picture of them. D. intermedia D. intermedia x filiformis Dionaea muscipula region with D. filiformis D. muscipula 'Red Dragon' D. muscipula 'Kronos' D. muscipula 'Kayan' D. muscipula 'Warewolf' Possibly D. muscipula 'Pink Venus' but it might also be 'Red Dragon' Anoplius cf. viaticus - poor spider. :/ I saw the whole thing how the wasp stung chased, stunged, dragged and burried the spider on the peat bog. :/ Thymelicus spp. on S. oreophila

Hello everyone, does anyone of you have normal colored (not white) U. minutissima 'Gunung Jerai' for swap or sale? Kind regards, Chris

Does anyone know what kind of rock it grows on in the natural habitat? I can't find any information regarding it on the Internet.

Congratulations. :) It is so tiny though. Any tips on how you did it?

It is not a Metzgeria sp., which has a strong, easily visible, central "nerve". The one above does not have any and the photo does not have to be sharp to notice that. There was a time when I was very much interested in mosses and I still remember some more common ones from their look. Beside Metzgeria sp. is more like a mountain species, prefers colder ecosystems, wile Riccardia sp. is a lot more widespread and heat tolerant genus.

It can overgrow some very tiny plants, that is true, but I haven't seen it causing any serious damage to any of them, except making them to compete for the light. But such observation I have with other mosses and very small plants. I think that under the water roots will have less oxygen than with a layer of mosses on the soil. And yet we often even submerge some Genlisea and Utricularia without negative effects. This moss is Riccardia sp. Maybe R. multifida, maybe some other, impossible to tell from a photo.

I can see there only a moss, not even a single leaf of U. busquamata/subulata. I don't remember its name, but I know it well. Later I can check my books and try to identify it more or less.

Yeah, I saw it. I wasn't expecting it to have 1 meter long leafs or more, otherwise, it would be dangerous to grow this at home outside a cage. But that is still very impressing. :)

I took a measure and placed 1,5 m by my side, that is just insane. 1 m would be ridiculous, but 1,5 makes it just unbelievable. I just have to see that plant one day. For now we can just wait patiently. I pity that there is no benchmark to the photos of it in the wild, like human hand. The plant itself looks really great. Calling it Drosera magnifica is probably the best name since it is just magnificent.

I must really be sure... Do you really mean 1,5 meter?!! That is terrifying... it does not run after its prey, does it? Are there any photos of it I would LOVE to see some.

Not with a thermometer, no, but with a finger only. You should know, that I don't grow my Cephalotus in small pots which can easily heat up. I have them in a 45L large "pot". (http://toptools.com.pl/images/allegro_foto/PMD-5091.jpg) I don't know the proper word to describe that plastic box I use. Although, the soil near the surface and walls is very warm, true, the deeper, the cooler the soil is. Such volume does not heat up within a few hours.

Some time ago, mine had 34*C (93*F) in shade and it was in full sun for the most of the day, including midday. It looked totally normal in such conditions. Now the temperatures are much colder like 20*C (68*F). I think that until the soil itself is not heating too much, it can withstand much more heat.

It looks like a bit like U. lateriflora, although the shape of the flower is odd... Could you show the leafs?

Well... How it could not be similar to U. campbelliana if it grows in same region, have similar flower colour, is from the same group of plants and have the same ancestor? But the colour is still amazing.

It is G. glandulosissima, but the flower is deformed. If it will flower again properly, we will see if it is a true albino or not.

I kept one outside and it survived well temperatures around 3-5*C, even night frosts like -1/-2*C. Eventually it died during lower, regular frosts (it was in a pot). I don't know how long it could survive in gourd in so low temperatures. Maybe some small plastic cover to protect it from wind would be a good idea... But there is a chance for regular form to survive in this zone. Either way, there is a point in trying.

You are asking about the species I listed or all Genlisea? Because only G. aurea should be grown with water near the soil, level, on it, or slightly above. This species very much like to have wet conditions. If it goes for G. margaretae and G. glandulosissima, in the nature they grow in shallow water, just under the water surface, rarely deeper or above it. In cultivation, they don't need such conditions to grow properly. G. repens also does not need to grow under water, it can, in wild it sometimes grow like that, but it does not need it at all to grow properly. I forgot to mention G. sanariapoana, which also grows always under water, under thin film of water mostly. It is not in cultivation though, which is a pity, since it has very nice flowers.

A few species can be constantly grown in water, but it will be rather shallow layer of water. If I remember correctly G. angolensis could also grow deeper in water similar to G. guianensis, but you won't be able to get any of those. Those which can grow in just under the water surface are: G. aurea G. repens G. margaretae G. glandulosissima (I would have to check if any other species.)

Definitely clay pot will better give away heat, but also humidity, so the pot should more likely stand in shallow water during plants growth. Taiwan you say... Well, I don't really know what weather you have there, but it does not really sound good for Tuberous Drosera cultivation. they go dormant when temperature is longer above 20*C and wake up when it drops for longer time below 20*C. Could you write how long you have temperatures regularly below 20*C? If not much, than how you manage to grow them at all? Do you have some sort of cooling system?

I treat all the same. During cold days in their growing season they all have humid soil, not wet. when I keep them outside and there is rain I allow them to have t, but than I don't allow them to stand in water. I have high pots around 20 cm or so and 1-2 cm of water level, occasionally I allow it to dry out and than water again. I don't divide to more water resistant and less. Providing constantly humid soil is working very well. When the dormancy approaches, when a species starts to go dormant I stop watering it at all and allow soil to dry out. It never dries out to bone, there is always some residual humidity deep in the soil which in my plastic pots works very well. In clay pots the soil would dry to the bone, in whole depth, but I don't know if that would be good.

The Pygmy Drosera looks to me like Drosera ericksoniae.