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Everything posted by Karsty

  1. Hey tropicbreeze! What's your weather like at the moment? You can edit that plant name up there Karsty.
  2. I guess, thinking about it, you must have a very red cv. of flava? I had a chance seedling of S. purpurea ssp. purpurea appear in an outdoor bog garden, and after 1 year it's size was comparable to yours.
  3. Hi FruitPolo, Are they really S. flava? They don't look like it to me. In the spring, I would experiment with some of them by spraying weak fertiliser over them and see how they react. Or if I could provide bright light and warmth all through winter, I would try it starting from now. These are just educated guesses at how to improve them Karsty.
  4. Amazing x 10 + 1 @Krzysio
  5. Phew, after finding my magnifying glass to read some of these comments .... If any of you live within driving distance of St. Albans, Herts, you just Have to go to Aylett Nurseries. Their house plant area rival Kew Gardens for incredibleness, and to top it, their customer service is outstanding. Nearby is Burston Garden Centre, which has been quite good lately for house plants.
  6. Hi Roberto, Any news on this? It is almost certainly just fungal mycelium. Get yourself a cheap illuminated loupe from eBay, and have a good look around to see if there really are any pests. Karsty.
  7. Karsty

    VFT weirdness!

    I think the ants are chewing your sundew leaves to cause the damage. They apparently to not eject any formic acid. This particular queen ant escaped from me this year. Next year I will install cctv. Weirdly, all those I put into D. m. 'Big Mouth' were fully digested......
  8. Karsty

    VFT weirdness!

    It's done it again this year. Does anyone else have experience of Dionaea 'Red Dragon' ('Akai Ryu') not digesting queen ants?
  9. Karsty


    Hi Hayley, Welcome Please post photos!
  10. If there's no aphids, there's no aphids! It's sounds like you are describing the natural sugary secretion it uses to attract insects....?
  11. Ali - Do you really think 10 weeks was not enough time to give the Ambyselius time to do their job? You will see that I carried out a certain amount of destruction with regard to the infested plants. So would it be reliable to say that after hatching these mites will not produce eggs within 2 weeks? Even in the most favourable conditions? Honestly, I'd rather poison myself slightly then recover than go through all of that trouble with the oil-based pesticide (would not SB Plant Invigorator do the same job?). Besides, I don't have a binocular microscope - not yet anyway! But I would not use any dangerous pesticides where they might harm bees. You have my admiration for having both the time, and the patience, to carry out those procedures! The truth is, I would have the patience if I had the time and the right equipment. There's not much info out there about Brevipalpus, but I stumbled upon this video, in case it is of assistance to anyone - MissOrchidGirl - How to make and apply your own DIY insecticide for Orchids - Complete, step by step guide
  12. Had to post this up Folks -
  13. You can drain it off anyhow. Just make sure its medium remains moist. If it was me I wouldn't be concerned about it, I would take it out of the water and just put it straight back into normal conditions....
  14. I'm going for "Submerge the entire pot, everything"! I believe that S. purpurea ssp. purpurea grows in very high water levels naturally, and may be submerged completely sometimes in nature.
  15. And just think how good you will feel if you support the use of something which is not a poison, kills many small pests, and doesn't harm bees or ladybirds!
  16. I wouldn't even try to use the same stuff again if it hasn't already wiped them out. The only conclusion from this (and there may be other as yet unknown factors) is that they are resistant, and whatever you use next, make sure it isn't imidacloprid.
  17. Hmmmm.......... they should all really be dead within 24 hours or sooner.........
  18. One spray with Provado should be more than enough to finish off an attack of aphids as it's systemic. You shouldn't need to spray anything else now, unless you get aphids there who have resistance. That's the advantage of SBPI, it's not a poison so there's never any danger of resistance developing. If you want to switch over to SBPI once the Provado has worn off, just think, in warm conditions aphids give birth once an hour and are born pregnant. So one may give birth just after you've sprayed, and this offspring survives and continues the infestation. Or one flies in and starts a new infestation. So you may find you have to sometimes spray several times in one day to polish them off. If there's absolutely no danger of bees, ladybirds, etc getting near the plants, I would also probably use something pretty potent. I did recently to get rid of some insidious Brevipalpus mites.
  19. The photo is a bit blurry, but it looks like a bit of leaf-scorch, and also the younger leaves developing the red protective pigment in response to high light levels. As they mature they become green. What are your day and night temperatures in Celcius/Centigrade?
  20. There's one method that says starving Nepenthes forces them to make pitchers from the growing need for nutrients. And one grower thinks Ventrata produces pitchers if it has something to cling to to grow upwards........?
  21. Ah! Thanks Paul. I've had Ventrata for 18 months. It grows like billy-o but produces practically no pitchers.
  22. I am intrigued Paul, which Nepenthes are you keeping outside? Is it really outside all year round?
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