Karsty

I think the ants are chewing your sundew leaves to cause the damage. They apparently to not eject any formic acid. This particular queen ant escaped from me this year. Next year I will install cctv. Weirdly, all those I put into D. m. 'Big Mouth' were fully digested......

It's done it again this year. Does anyone else have experience of Dionaea 'Red Dragon' ('Akai Ryu') not digesting queen ants?

Yeps

Lovely!

Hi Hayley, Welcome Please post photos!

If there's no aphids, there's no aphids! It's sounds like you are describing the natural sugary secretion it uses to attract insects....?

Ali - Do you really think 10 weeks was not enough time to give the Ambyselius time to do their job? You will see that I carried out a certain amount of destruction with regard to the infested plants. So would it be reliable to say that after hatching these mites will not produce eggs within 2 weeks? Even in the most favourable conditions? Honestly, I'd rather poison myself slightly then recover than go through all of that trouble with the oil-based pesticide (would not SB Plant Invigorator do the same job?). Besides, I don't have a binocular microscope - not yet anyway! But I would not use any dangerous pesticides where they might harm bees. You have my admiration for having both the time, and the patience, to carry out those procedures! The truth is, I would have the patience if I had the time and the right equipment. There's not much info out there about Brevipalpus, but I stumbled upon this video, in case it is of assistance to anyone - MissOrchidGirl - How to make and apply your own DIY insecticide for Orchids - Complete, step by step guide

Had to post this up Folks -

You can drain it off anyhow. Just make sure its medium remains moist. If it was me I wouldn't be concerned about it, I would take it out of the water and just put it straight back into normal conditions....

I'm going for "Submerge the entire pot, everything"! I believe that S. purpurea ssp. purpurea grows in very high water levels naturally, and may be submerged completely sometimes in nature.

And just think how good you will feel if you support the use of something which is not a poison, kills many small pests, and doesn't harm bees or ladybirds!

I wouldn't even try to use the same stuff again if it hasn't already wiped them out. The only conclusion from this (and there may be other as yet unknown factors) is that they are resistant, and whatever you use next, make sure it isn't imidacloprid.

Hmmmm.......... they should all really be dead within 24 hours or sooner.........

Did you dilute it to full strength?

One spray with Provado should be more than enough to finish off an attack of aphids as it's systemic. You shouldn't need to spray anything else now, unless you get aphids there who have resistance. That's the advantage of SBPI, it's not a poison so there's never any danger of resistance developing. If you want to switch over to SBPI once the Provado has worn off, just think, in warm conditions aphids give birth once an hour and are born pregnant. So one may give birth just after you've sprayed, and this offspring survives and continues the infestation. Or one flies in and starts a new infestation. So you may find you have to sometimes spray several times in one day to polish them off. If there's absolutely no danger of bees, ladybirds, etc getting near the plants, I would also probably use something pretty potent. I did recently to get rid of some insidious Brevipalpus mites.