carambola

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Posts posted by carambola


  1. On 6/29/2020 at 11:22 AM, TheCarnivorousPlants said:

    Hi all, is there a confirmation about this quoted post?

    I don't think that it's always true. Actually I've a drosera pulchella with two floral stems: one has a flower with four stigma and the second one with three stigma. :blink:

    That could just be a temporary mutation, just like how occasionally there's an extra or a missing flower petal.


  2. For what it's worth, my binata, that are outside all year, are also suffering from the dry weather. On top of that, because they're a lot weaker than they normally are, they're infested by aphids. Interestingly, var. binata seems to struggle a lot more than var. multifida (with regards to both the dry weather and the aphids). Perhaps it's something to do with var. multifida being about twice as big, with much thicker petioles and thick roots.


  3. It doesn't really matter, but there's not much of a point in cutting them off at that point. Plants put a lot of energy into flowering, but as soon as the flowers are 'finished', they're essentially just fancy leaves (which can still photosynthesise) and don't require any extra energy.

    By the way, cutting them off when they're still growing, which is often claimed to help the plant grow faster, isn't really helpful either, because the plant will simply try to create more flower stalks and so will actually spend more energy on flowering in the end.


  4. Looks like water fleas (Cladocera) from what I can tell. They don't really help the plant digest, but they aren't harmful creatures either.

    After watching the video clip a couple of times, I noticed something else: there's a small bug crawling on the outer right side of the leaf. I wonder if this is footage of its last living moments before it fell into the Sarracenial abyss.

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  5. Both are correct in a way. Drosera (and in fact many other plants) quickly turn red if there's enough sunlight as a means to protect against being burned. At this point the plants are most definitely burned, despite the red colour mechanism, because they haven't seen light of such intensity for a long time. These leaves won't produce dew anymore. The new leaves, however, will be adapted to the strong lights, won't burn, but will still look reddish. The red colour goes away again as the light intensity diminishes. Usually, Drosera leaves will be a dark green, with red tentacles.

    It's all very similar to humans getting a tan to protect against the sunlight. If you stay in the sunlight for too long before your skin has managed to acclimatise (by tanning), you'll get burned.

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  6. It won't work unless you plan on taking the plants out every winter, but then I don't think there'd be much of a point to the terrarium. Dionaea, Sarracenia and temperate sundews must hibernate during winter, which will be virtually impossible in a terrarium. There are plenty of species that like a constant temperature year-round, though. Nepenthes, Heliamphora, tropical Drosera, tropical Utricularia, Stylidium, ...

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  7. Heliamphora aren't as difficult as people make them out to be, but you have to get a strong specimen/clone (as with anything). I have been growing what I think is Heliamphora nutans x ionasii (I don't label my plants), bought from one of the forum members (I no longer have the messages so I can't tell whose it was or which species it is), on my windowsill next to some Adeniums, Vanilla, date palm, some kind of tree fern, etc (just to give you an idea of the variety of things that do well on a windowsill), and it's growing marvelously well. Unfortunately this summer I made a mistake in its watering schedule and didn't water it for two weeks, so it lost a lot of leaves and subsequently nearly succumbed to a mold infestation, but after giving it a good soaking, picking away all of the dead leaves, adding some fresh live Sphagnum on top and putting a bunch of Trichoderma in the pot as well (though I'm not sure if this last step really had any effect), it's now producing healthy leaves again. There's even a fern growing in its pot and it still doesn't seem bothered by it. I'd posted a picture of it in all its former glory last year, but it looks like it was lost during the forum 'crash' late last year. I'll see if I can dig it up again.

    All this is essentially just to say that Heliamphora aren't as picky as people often claim. There's a lot of misinformation going around in carnivorous plant growing circles, and I think it's because people tend to believe the first thing they read (like people putting icecubes on the moss of their Heliamphora during summer to keep the roots cool). How much ice do they think there is to be found on those tepuis?


  8. On 6/7/2019 at 5:55 PM, Blocky71 said:

    The purp will be bomb proof but I'd try and shelter the vft from heavy down pours as the rain tends to trigger the traps wasting a lot of the plants energy over extended periods......

    I think that might have something to do with the rain splashing down on peat and creating a lot of extra splashes in the process. In my experience, after it's poured for a few days, plants growing in peat seem to look worse for longer than those growing in sphagnum moss.


  9. It sounds to me like they're just regular Sarracenia that some salamanders accidentally got stuck in. I don't see any mention of them actually being digested by the plants (I can't access the scientific article at https://esajournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ecy.2770 ), only that they eventually died, but just because you die of starvation after falling into a deep hole that you can't get out of doesn't mean that the hole is 'meat-eating'.


  10. On 5/30/2019 at 10:16 AM, ada said:

    Both are very easy to grow,but the drosera will more than likely lose its dew on the leaves due to the dry atmosphere in a house.

    They (subtropical Drosera in general) get a surprising amount of dew standing in bright but indirect sunlight in an unheated room (unheated as in the radiator isn't on but it isn't freezing). In fact, as it turns out, the unheated room turns out to be the greatest trick of them all in growing virtually any plant species that usually looks totally miserable indoors. Nepenthes get pitchers, Heliamphora thrive and get perfectly formed pitchers, tropical Drosera like adelae or graomogolensis get dew (although they don't get very red), and that's just fussy carnivorous plants.


  11. On 5/5/2019 at 2:00 PM, Natale said:

    I'm sure it's not a succulent plant or something like that because it was born and currently lives with the conditions of a sarracenia, now in the sfagnera with high water levels

    Most seedlings will grow for a little while until their resources run dry, and until the growing conditions have become too toxic to survive. The coconut seedlings you can buy in shops with the coconut still attached, for example, get a lot of energy out of their massive seed, so they'll grow for (quite) some time, but as soon as they're out of resources, they'll quickly give up the ghost. By and large, succulents are actually surprisingly resilient against being flooded (in fact, many even appreciate it every once in a while), it's only when their roots start to rot that they'll protest.


  12. 5 hours ago, ian said:

    There is a section for cacti & succulents in non carnivorous plants.

    I know, that's why I said "You're free to discuss, but it's not what most people are here for." It's as if a Porsche fan would sign up to a Ferrari forum specifically to discuss Porsche cars in the 'Other cars' section.


  13. Hi Diane, are you sure you signed up to the right forum? This is a forum for carnivorous plants (like sundew or flytraps), not for succulents (like Agave or Aloe). You're free to discuss, but it's not what most people are here for.


  14. Hi Yasin, nice to hear you've got your money back. I am still a little bit suspicious, though, because it seems to me that if you hadn't complained multiple times and in public, the seller would not have refunded you. In fact, I don't know why they would send unhealthy plants at all, they shouldn't have sent you anything in the first place and should have refunded as soon as they discovered that they couldn't send you the strong and healthy plants you ordered. Keep us posted either way.


  15. On 4/16/2019 at 3:12 PM, jules4 said:

    Does anyone know if David is still alive and I just should give him some more time and sit back and relax? I really want those plants but if David is not trustworthy anymore i would consider to claim back the money from paypal...

    If I were you, I'd file a dispute on PayPal and say that the goods weren't delivered, which, in any case, is not a lie. I've learnt that if a seller doesn't reply to a dispute in about a week's time, you get your money back no questions asked. Either way PayPal has a deadline after which you can no longer file a dispute, so I'd say play it safe and ask for your money back. That way you get three possible outcomes: 1) no reply from the seller, you get your money back; 2) the seller replies why he hasn't answered your mails for the past month and when you can expect to receive your plants, and you decide to wait until you receive the plants (although I would exercise caution in this case, because to my knowledge you cannot reopen a dispute should the plants still not arrive or if anything is wrong with them when they do arrive); or 3) the seller replies, but you ask for your money back because you don't want to wait for however long he says you'll have to wait.

     

    On 4/16/2019 at 4:01 PM, ada said:

    It always astounds me how people keep buying from this type of seller.there are many small growers on here that advertise great plants cheaply.But they often get ignored,are they too cheap?  Or does a flashy Web site and high prices make plants better?  Always read before you spend your hard earned cash,if you can buy local, then you Don,t get issues with weather being too hot or cold and there are no issues about things getting lost in translation.

    It's much easier to order a bunch of plants at once than to sit around in the sales section of this forum waiting for someone to sell one of the several plants you're interested in. Legally speaking, you're also slightly more protected when you buy from a real shop with a business number (even if it's a shop in a different country), than if you buy from an individual on a forum. I agree that you can find better deals, nicer plants and friendlier sellers over here than in a shop and that you're better off buying locally than abroad, but it just isn't always as easy to do.


  16. I'm not sure if you've grown Lithops before, but if you haven't, make sure you're prepared to see them all die over and over again. I've found them (and it seems many others share my experiences) to be extremely difficult to keep alive even when using the right soil, the right amount of light, watering (and not watering) at the right times, and so on. They're very nice to look at, but I just couldn't figure them out.


  17. Hi Yasin, that's awful, those plants look really small and sickly. It's a shame that there are still sellers like this who will never say they're out of stock and will even sell you dead plants just to make a sale. I hope you can dispute the payment and get your money back somehow, but either way thanks for letting us know, it's clear that no one should order anything from them anymore if they're ripping you off, it's totally unacceptable both that they sent you sickly and dead plants, and that they refuse to take their legal responsibility as a seller. Maybe @Richard Bunn can chime in on if their sponsorship can be revoked.


  18. 'Trauma' is a myth created by people who aren't careful. If you don't damage the roots, a plant won't show any signs of distress. You can repot at any time of the year. Some plants, of course, are more fragile than others.

    In fact, repotting during dormancy doesn't cause any less damage, you simply won't notice if you caused any damage because the plants aren't growing yet anyway.


  19. I wouldn't worry about it too much, just get some that you like, and that are visible without a magnifying glass (Drosera pulchella is an excellent fit, in my opinion). Start them from gemmae for the best results. If roots hit something on their way down, they grow around it. If it's the bottom of a pot, they'll just grow sideways.