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  1. Are you sure he used thiophanate-methyl? Jan
  2. Benzimidazoles are the most effective broad spectrum fungicides. They kill almost every fungus effectively and provide protection for a very long time. Except for one: Botrytis. Botrytis cells have a very effective mechanism to pump the poison out from their cytoplasma. Query on the internet: thiophanate-methyl Jan
  3. Bla, bla, bla. Try Topsin (benzimidazole) or any other systemic fungicide. It will work. I had a fly trap that looked similar (also royal red). Treated with Topsin and after a couple of weeks started to look fine. Jan
  4. Hi Altair, Interesting plant! I have observed the following traits: Flava Traits: 1. Leave edges at the hood column are strongly reflected (flava trait) 2. Slender column shape (flava trait) 3. long petals 4. veining pattern in the hood looks like radiating from one point 5. erect phyllodia 6. Red column spot 7. flower scape slightly shorter than pitchers Oreophila traits: 1. Small leave tip 2. hood column erect 3. some tendency for the phyllodia to be curved 4. hood angels at about 80 degrees So, in my opinion it is a cross between flava and oreophila. Considering the red blotch in the flower: I have observed red markings of the stigma at the base of the sepetals in several oreophila's in my collection. O7, sand mountain, of Mike King, is a good example of this. O7 displays clear red spots in the sepetals and the red marking is even indented above the stigma, providing some crawling space for the pollinator. One other oreophila in my collection has only a small hint of red on this spot. This red coloration is in my opinion population or individual specific. So, I do not think that Don Schell is completely correct by stating that the flower for all oreophila's is completely yellow. Jan
  5. Hi Jim, Your plant is in super condition! Jan
  6. Hi, Mmmm, I think your plant is not a grandiflora. Judging from the picture, I think your plant is a P. vulgaris. Jan
  7. Hi Graham, Impossible! Regards, Jan
  8. Hi Bill, I am the Dutch grower. This year, I have left my Drosophyllums outside in the snow and rain. No plant died this winter. High humidity in winter causes the most problems. So, I do not leave them to hibernate in the greenhouse. Regards, Jan
  9. Hi Iwein, Not to worry. This growing behavior is absolutely normal for Drosophyllum. The plant stops growing and slime production while setting seeds. When the seeds are developed, the plants will go on growing form the newly formed basal rosettes (the small leaves as you describe). These new basal rosettes are then the new growing points for the plant. Regards, Jan
  10. Hi guys, The fungicide I use for protecting Drosophyllum is Topsin. Topsin is the European trademark of the following chemical: thiofanaat-methyl. This is a broad spectrum fungicide. Search the internet for a product name, that can be available to you (Cleary's 3336, Domain and Systec). But be careful! Always use these chemicals according to the provided instructions. These agents are toxic! Here some background information on Topsin: Jan
  11. Here is Jan!, You can acheive a survival rate to the 6 leafed stage to around 90% when the plants are not treated with a fungicide. Using a fungicide to fight damp off disease will lead to even higher survival rates. When the plantlets reach the 6 leafed stage, the plants are out of the danger zone. I even sow Drosophyllums when it freezes, with no problems. There are some tricks to keep in mind: 1. Always use fresh seeds. This will increase the odds. 2. Seed treadment is not required (scarification, hormones, etc.) 3. Slack potting is not required. 4. At all times keep the substrate very wet! When placed in the full sun the substrate can quickly dry out. This seems contradictory, but it is not! Portugese summers are very dry. This is when the plant releases the seeds. In autumn, when the top layer of the soil is moist again the seeds germinate. I have had seedlings germinating outside in autumn surviving the Dutch winter (exposed to -13C). 5. Place the plants in full sunlight (min 6 hours a day). During the summer the motto is: The hotter the better. Light is very important in winter. At our latitudes the days are a bid to short in winter. 6. The best results are acheived outside of your house! Rooms tend to be to dark and to hot (in winter) for them. Greenhouses are often not well aerated and the air is stagnant. If you are in your greenhouse you can check with holding a hair whether the air is stagnant. If the hair moves about in your hand you are ok. Light conditions are ok when the tentacles are red and the plants do not produce a long stem. 7. Keep the plants very well ventilated! Humidity levels are allowed to drop below 30% during the day. Best results are acheived when the air humidity fluctuates diurnally between 30% and 90%. Higher humidity evels are tolerated but you have to be careful for fungus attack. Especially when the air is stagnant. 8. Do not after germinating move the plants. They are very susceptible to shock. When the plants are bigger than the 6 leaved stage they can be moved around. So,this is the Drosophyllum recipe. I grow then now for 6 years. My oldest plants are small shrubs. I hope you all will have succes! If you show me pictures of your plants, I can tell if the plants are ok. Jan
  12. I guess you have your plants exposed to temperatures above 10 degrees Celsius and in combination with a shortened photoperiod the plant will look wilted. It is too hot for its dormancy. Jan
  13. When the water temperature rises, the oxygen solubility drops. This leads to declining oxygen concentrations at higher water temperatures. When a Darlingtonia plant grows in a not well aerated substrate and the soil temperature increases, the plant will quickly deplete the soil from oxygen. This quick depletion of oxygen is caused by the elevated metabolic rate of the plant, the lower oxygen concentrations in the soil (dropped solubility of oxygen) and slow influx of oxygen (poor aeration). I think this gives an explanation for the myth that Darlintonia plants do not like high temeratures around its roots. To solve this problem, I grow Darlintonia in a well aerated substrate and avoid spaghnum and peat. I grow Darlingtona on pure perlite or other well aerated substrates. I keep my plants in full sun and the roots of the plants are often exposed to temperatures above 30 Celcius. I never had plants, that slowed down growth while exposed to these high temperatures. Therefore, my hypothesis is that Darlingtonia likes high oxygen concentrations around its roots. This hypothesis is also substantiated by the fact that Darlingtonia often grows in seepage bogs or small creeks in relatively open substrates. Under these conditions well aerated water is flowing over it roots. Jan
  14. Hello Flycatchers, I live in Holland and just now, some Drosophyllums plants are coming out of the snow. The plants are looking fine! The plants were snow covered for serveral days and exposed to -13 C. Therefore, Drosophyllum is much more tolerant what most people think. Drosophyllum does not like to be dry frosted and often dies due to fungus attacks. In the winter months the immune system is not effective. I suggest you disturb the plant as least as possilbe. It looks a bit withered but that is normal during winter. To make sure that the plants is not attacked by a fungus, you can spray a fungicide over the plant. It will surely recover! Regards, Jan