visee

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  1. Are you sure he used thiophanate-methyl? Jan
  2. Benzimidazoles are the most effective broad spectrum fungicides. They kill almost every fungus effectively and provide protection for a very long time. Except for one: Botrytis. Botrytis cells have a very effective mechanism to pump the poison out from their cytoplasma. Query on the internet: thiophanate-methyl Jan
  3. Bla, bla, bla. Try Topsin (benzimidazole) or any other systemic fungicide. It will work. I had a fly trap that looked similar (also royal red). Treated with Topsin and after a couple of weeks started to look fine. Jan
  4. Hi Altair, Interesting plant! I have observed the following traits: Flava Traits: 1. Leave edges at the hood column are strongly reflected (flava trait) 2. Slender column shape (flava trait) 3. long petals 4. veining pattern in the hood looks like radiating from one point 5. erect phyllodia 6. Red column spot 7. flower scape slightly shorter than pitchers Oreophila traits: 1. Small leave tip 2. hood column erect 3. some tendency for the phyllodia to be curved 4. hood angels at about 80 degrees So, in my opinion it is a cross between flava and oreophila. Considering the red b
  5. Hi Jim, Your plant is in super condition! Jan
  6. Hi, Mmmm, I think your plant is not a grandiflora. Judging from the picture, I think your plant is a P. vulgaris. Jan
  7. Hi Graham, Impossible! Regards, Jan
  8. Hi Bill, I am the Dutch grower. This year, I have left my Drosophyllums outside in the snow and rain. No plant died this winter. High humidity in winter causes the most problems. So, I do not leave them to hibernate in the greenhouse. Regards, Jan
  9. Hi Iwein, Not to worry. This growing behavior is absolutely normal for Drosophyllum. The plant stops growing and slime production while setting seeds. When the seeds are developed, the plants will go on growing form the newly formed basal rosettes (the small leaves as you describe). These new basal rosettes are then the new growing points for the plant. Regards, Jan
  10. Hi guys, The fungicide I use for protecting Drosophyllum is Topsin. Topsin is the European trademark of the following chemical: thiofanaat-methyl. This is a broad spectrum fungicide. Search the internet for a product name, that can be available to you (Cleary's 3336, Domain and Systec). But be careful! Always use these chemicals according to the provided instructions. These agents are toxic! Here some background information on Topsin: http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/fung-...nate-ethyl.html Jan
  11. Here is Jan!, You can acheive a survival rate to the 6 leafed stage to around 90% when the plants are not treated with a fungicide. Using a fungicide to fight damp off disease will lead to even higher survival rates. When the plantlets reach the 6 leafed stage, the plants are out of the danger zone. I even sow Drosophyllums when it freezes, with no problems. There are some tricks to keep in mind: 1. Always use fresh seeds. This will increase the odds. 2. Seed treadment is not required (scarification, hormones, etc.) 3. Slack potting is not required. 4. At all times keep the substrate
  12. I guess you have your plants exposed to temperatures above 10 degrees Celsius and in combination with a shortened photoperiod the plant will look wilted. It is too hot for its dormancy. Jan
  13. When the water temperature rises, the oxygen solubility drops. This leads to declining oxygen concentrations at higher water temperatures. When a Darlingtonia plant grows in a not well aerated substrate and the soil temperature increases, the plant will quickly deplete the soil from oxygen. This quick depletion of oxygen is caused by the elevated metabolic rate of the plant, the lower oxygen concentrations in the soil (dropped solubility of oxygen) and slow influx of oxygen (poor aeration). I think this gives an explanation for the myth that Darlintonia plants do not like high temeratures a
  14. Hello Flycatchers, I live in Holland and just now, some Drosophyllums plants are coming out of the snow. The plants are looking fine! The plants were snow covered for serveral days and exposed to -13 C. Therefore, Drosophyllum is much more tolerant what most people think. Drosophyllum does not like to be dry frosted and often dies due to fungus attacks. In the winter months the immune system is not effective. I suggest you disturb the plant as least as possilbe. It looks a bit withered but that is normal during winter. To make sure that the plants is not attacked by a fungus, you can spray a