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Everything posted by Guy

  1. Interesting! I have capensis seedlings growing all over the place and, I must admit, I've never studied them that closely. They are just weeded out when they get big. I'll keep a closer eye on them now! Guy
  2. And do whatever you can to get constant air movement round the plant. I now have an electric fan in the greenhouse which is on 24 hours a day. No Botrytis problems for the last couple of years. Guy
  3. Thanks for that Stephen I have some Utricularia in dire need of re potting. I'll use your mix and see how it goes. Guy
  4. Well, fancy that! All my D. capensis have elongate leaves, nothing like the ones in the photo which look like little table tennis bats. Is it just because they are so young, Stephen? Guy
  5. Wow! So many different Drosera. Most of those in your pictures are new to me. Thanks. Guy
  6. Very nice! But are you sure they are D. capensis? Look more like a D. rotundifolia to me. Guy
  7. You'd be very lucky to get propagation from a flower stalk cutting. Give it a go, though. It might work. Best bet is to let it grow on this year then, by 2023, it should have produced new plants which you can separate out. You'll have more VFTs than you know what to do with in a couple of years! Guy
  8. Same here, about waiting for seeds, plus I can't log into the CPS website. It won't accept my username/password and there doesn't seem to be any way of re setting them. Guy
  9. Thanks Tobias The topping looks more like crushed quartz then sand! Guy
  10. Absolutely gorgeous. Thanks. What have you planted them in, please? Guy
  11. These are essentially small living plants. No need to store them. Best to plant them now. You may find this video interesting. Guy
  12. Welcome Les All except the Nepenthes should be Ok in the greenhouse over winter as long as the temperature doesn't get much below zero Celsius for too long. The Nepenthes won't tolerate such low temperatures over the winter, so keeping them indoors is best. VFTs are particularly hardy and I've had them frozen solid for a few weeks in winter and still bounce back the following spring. Amazing! Watering should always be by filling the tray with distilled or rain water during the summer and keeping the plants just damp over winter. Hope this helps. Guy
  13. Mine arrived in my inbox on Tuesday 21st September. Perhaps yours went into your junk mail folder, Paul? Guy
  14. Thanks Rob. The sphagnum I buy from my local garden centre looks to me as though it's alive! It's green, moist and springy. But perhaps dead sphagnum looks like this as well. Guy
  15. In the latest online issue of the Carnivorous plant society newsletter Phil Wilson writes about various alternatives to peat. A really interesting article which will definitely encourage me to try coir and various other substrates. One of the alternatives he writes about is sphagnum moss, which many of us use either alone or mixed with other substrates. In the article Phil writes "Be wary of live sphagnum offered for sale on eBay as it’s often actually moss for hanging baskets and not suitable for use with carnivorous plants". If Phil uses this forum then a bit more info would be really helpful. I'm sure the sphagnum I buy from my local garden centre is intended for hanging baskets and I'm now a bit concerned my plants may be in less than optimal conditions. Or can anyone else shed any light on this, please? Thanks. Guy
  16. Nice looking plant, GG. You've definitely given it the right conditions to revive from its stay at Home Depot. A steady drop in temperature will be better than moving between warmer and cooler areas. These are pretty hardy, so temperatures below freezing can be tolerated. Best bet is your balcony, assuming you don't have anywhere in your flat which will get cold over winter. Also, if you put it outside while the weather's still good it'll probably find more flies! The problem will be the wind. Perhaps put him in a protected corner of the balcony? Tie his pot onto something? You'll need to use your ingenuity here, as you know your balcony better than anyone else. As to the pigeon poop--do you get a lot on the balcony? Guy
  17. That's worked. Wow, there are loads of D. rotundifolia. Wonderful. Where are they? Great picture of the lizard--really dark, isn't it? Guy
  18. Pictures all say 'unavailable'. Perhaps it's just me. Guy
  19. Wow, 3.5p/litre. An amazing price! My local aquarium shop charges 14p/litre. I've just looked Spotless Water up. There's one about a mile or so from me. Definitely worth a visit. Thanks for the info, Tilkifox. Guy
  20. Or you could look into buying RO water from a local aquarium shop. Mine charges 17p/litre, many charge less. Guy
  21. Straight onto the flower beds for me. Wouldn't want to re use it. Guy
  22. My bonsai trees are on a couple of these. But there are hundreds of other sorts to look at if you search plant stands on line. Guy
  23. Or sow the seeds. If they grow, which they probably will, you can treat the Utrics which are in with your Drosera as weeds! Guy
  24. Probably damaged in transport. If they are completely broken then they will die and rot. I would cut them off. The plant looks very healthy and will grow new leaves. Guy
  25. Capillary matting is wonderful stuff! I have five trays in a row. There is capillary matting running in a continuous piece along all of them. The three middle trays are lifted up by a couple of centimetres and contain various Pings, pygmy Drosera, a Cephalotus and a Heliamphora. The outer trays contain other Drosera. The middle trays contain plants which I don't think want to be soaking in water, the outer trays have plants which are quite happy to be in water 2-3 cm deep. Don't know if I'm correct in my thinking, just going on experience and some stuff I've read. The way it works is I fill the outer trays with water and the capillary matting takes the water to the three middle trays. Because the three middle trays are elevated the two end trays can be filled with water, but the three middle trays never have more than a couple of millimetres of water in. The plant pots sit on the capillary matting and draw up as much water as they need. Seems to work really well. By which I mean, the Cephalotus and Heliamphora are both putting out new pitchers. I've kept a few of these in the tray system with 2-3cm of water and always managed to kill them. I'm much more hopeful this year, since starting to use capillary matting. Plus the Pings are looking really good, too. So I'm hopeful this new (to me) technique will yield positive results in the long term. Guy