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Everything posted by cpbobby

  1. Nice! is sarracenia a permitted species? and many thanks for your contribution!
  2. aw man! I did a quick google search and not all is bad! It appears Canada has a similar program and the uk you just fill out a form you can get from the post office. I will need to do some more digging to see if it is as easy for italy, france australia and holland. To import seeds in the UK you just have to fill out a standard customs form obtained from the PO? And if the same rules apply for Australia? Can some of you help me to confirm this? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated and with the knowledge that it is actually easier to do for the rest of the world would be greatly encouraging. If any of you can help me, just reply with to confirm the process and take a pic of the blank form. I think getting the information out there, correct and with pics might embolden others to join in where otherwise they might stay idle thinking it is more difficult. Speaking of which I might do a write-up to demonstrate how people can get the permit in the U.S. Side note: I need to amend my permit to include Canada and Australia.
  3. right, I do not know about other countries but if you can get your small seed lot permits; I will be more than happy to send seeds to you so we can all enjoy some additional genetic diversity. :) right now I can import from france, uk, italy and the netherlands but I think amending the permit should be pretty straight forward should someone from a country not listed wants to participate. way it works is if I want to import seeds, I send a copy of my permit and a shipping label the exporter uses them, i am guessing the reverse is true if anyone would wish to import from me. I have a few things I am working on but at sometime soon I will begin to present some inventory available to trade. :)
  4. Recently, I got into a discussion with a new friend of mine from Holland whom gave me the direction to take the initiative and get this done. I live in the east coast, USA and had no idea how easy and free it was to get my small seed lot permit meaning I can legally import up to 49 sarracenia seeds at a time. I need to look into it further to see if I can export seeds for free too. I will also start expanding at some point to include other carnivorous seeds. I would love to be able to open up some sort of repor with carnivorous enthusiast from other countries so we can all come together to share our passions. Chances are if it is free to import seeds to the united states then I am certain other countries have similar programs. For the U.S.A it is called a small seed lot permit and is 100% free to get. If more of us follow suit and get these permits we can all legally import seeds and trade with one another. I would like to establish a free trade alliance for seeds throughout the world so if some of you get the same permits please contact me. Ideally if some sort of foundation is established then perhaps we can collectively build from there and trade more than seeds in the long run. It can be possible. Please pm me if bridging these gaps may interest you for sarracenia or any carnivore as i think it would be awesome if we can build some bridges.
  5. n the process of cleaning my sarracenia; I spot these on one of my largest ones........are they eggs? poop? I have no idea. If they are eggs can you all advise of a removal strategy? pull the plant and brush them off then hit with what like neem oil or something?my locale is central VA and this plant has been in my care for about 5 years so whatever it is I am assuming it is local. let me know what you all think?
  6. it would be nice tho.....perhaps the next best thing would be to approach a popular vendor. I can't speak for them but if I was a vendor I would be delighted to host such meetings! They would have an opportunity to build relationships with more enthusiasts without needing to do too much in return....perhaps a table/tent with some specimen cp's available to purchase as well as snack/drink sales I would imagine. Also with that template you can have meetings at different vendor locations to enable you to meet more enthusiast, just a thought.
  7. My opinion is evolution....I believe the leuco's have this trait because it benefits them in regards to where they live. Perhaps the explanation as to why other sarracenia do not have the same traits is they evolved differently or never had/spread the mutation?
  8. Hey, you are helping me out so I am more than willing to wait until it is convenient for you; besides all my plants are dormant so no rush on getting any pics. :) Many Thanks
  9. oh wow! Thanks Aaron! Just let me know when you get the video up and I will be sure to watch and like it!
  10. admittedly I am very new to it all but I am sure you knew that by the question I asked. lol. I have noticed with this new camera that it depends on me for alot of it's adjustment which is something I am not used to. far as entry level camera in question: I was able to get a fully equipped Sony SLTa33L for $192 which left me with $8 to spend to stay in budget. I spent that on a set of macro lenses. It came with a 17-70mm lens and I spent another $20 on a 70-300mm lens. So far only 10% over budget. lol. Far as my level of mastery: so far I have set all the passive camera settings to my liking and have taken pics by manual zoom and focus. I haven't really gotten into post processing yet but it is on my list of things to do as well as shutter, aperture and other manual adjustments.
  11. In regards to post processing and file formats. I recently got a camera that can save images in either jpg, raw or both. Would there be any benefit to saving my pics in a raw format then converting them to jpg in post processing to view online or should I just not mess with it and save the images in a jpg format? My end goal is to display the best possible image via flickr to share online. I am just uncertain if there would be any benefit to using a raw format for that considering the end size of the pic. I know there are most likely some knowledgeable people here on the subject to hopefully point me in the right direction.
  12. good idea. do some experiments and see what works. When I first grew carnivores I used the miracle grow peat from lowes and it worked fine despite being enriched. I say make you a mix and try it. good growing!
  13. It is a Leah Wilkerson: I might make a division although I will have to prepare another pot however; I think if I make a division I will break one of the 2 large divisions into about 5 smaller divisions in order to start a Leah Wilkerson colony!
  14. I already replanted it but definitely worth considering. I want to see it reach it's maximum potential before making a split. Last year was 36 inches but I have prepared a better grow area this year which should yield an additional 2-4h of evening sun. With any luck the extra light might enable it to reach up to 38 inches this year which I haven't ruled out making a reflector for it either. I am also considering making a couple more micro divisions like the one I have later in the year outside of it's peak pitcher production.
  15. cpbobby

    Do I trim?

    far as a visual representation in regards to removing dead foliage here is a link that should demonstrate the point and what I personally prefer to practice. http://www.cpukforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/58655-should-i-divide-the-titan/#comment-390318
  16. Update: I went with my gut and made a small division before cleaning and re-planting it.
  17. Just pulled this thing and going to clean it up. It is not my biggest in my collection but it is in my top 3! much as I believe in not messing with my plants, I had no choice in the matter. It started growing into the side of the pot as indicated by the slightly flattened crown. I am thinking of making a very small extremity division; perhaps only a small crown or 2 as a means of preserving the plant JIC something were to happen to it. what are all of your opinions? make a very small division like I wanted? make a large division/break it into halves or thirds? or make no division at all?The beast has only 12 crowns but most of the crowns are quite robust. The pic doesn't do it much justice. It is much bigger in R/L. For those of you that believe a 4 inch pot is sufficient to grow mature sarracenia, I have here exhibit A! lol. It is in an 18inch deep pot and I will most likely move it into a 22inch pot which should in theory allow to further expand it's root system; In case any of you are wondering this is a Leah Wilkerson and an extremely happy one! Let me know what you guys think?
  18. that's odd. is there alot of supplimental lighting? Regardless you should clone it just to be safe.
  19. I haven't tried it but I seen a post where someone built a minibog out of an old bathtub and it seemed pretty neat both aesthetically and functionally. Just a thought.
  20. cpbobby

    Do I trim?

    it is also a good practice to trim dead growth to cut back on mold/fungi growth probability by removing food and increasing airflow.
  21. I hope you are successful with your endeavors and if you intend to clone and distribute the bical I am sure many will appreciate that as well. Best of Luck to you.
  22. your plants look fine. some sarracenia will die all the way back to their rhizomes but as long as the crown at it's base is green then you are fine.
  23. most of the different clones offer different colors minus the Sarawak Giant which I believe is larger than normal Bicals. If you have your heart set on a lowland nepenthes and not a ton of space; I would recommend a N. Bellii. I have heard they can be grown and be content within a square meter of space or even a large terrarium. p.s. 5c will definitely kill a N.Bical
  24. The plant is easy to grow but unless you have alot of space; it will outgrow it. I do not know the exact specs are but I have heard an adult bical leaf can reach half a meter. At some point you will either have to root bind it and hope it doesn't perish or just keep making cuttings but in my opinion it doesn't do the plant any justice.
  25. I am doing this by request but It has been a while since I have grown bical but I will input what I can. first basic plant information: with some exceptions like arid or temperate which are still on a cycle of sorts......plants in general HATE unscheduled changes. Anytime you make a change the plant has to re-acclimatize to those changes and like people, the older the plant is; the less flexible it will be. aka for a small plant to start over is easy bc it doesn't take much energy to do so whereas it can be an undertaking for a large plant. so moving it around will agitate it if not kill it. Next some bical information from my experiences: bical gets BIG so if you cannot grow it outside all year then you will need a BIG greenhouse otherwise you will be in a never-ending cycle of making cuttings as it will regularly outgrow whatever environment you have setup for it. smaller bical can tolerate more changes in lighting and some changes in humidity although it will stop pitcher production; however the plant has a set temp range and if that range is exceeded then the plant will suffer. temps, absolute lowest it will deal with is around 17c. In the winter I used to have it 22-23 in the day and 17-18 at night. The upper limits of the plant are not so black and white. You can push temps up if you have a higher humidity. If your humidity is high then the plant will tolerate 44 but if your humidity is not high then the leaves will wilt at the same temp. These are not ideals but the limits in which to keep it alive. Ideals would be to keep the temp variation within like 6 degrees from day to night. I would say it did best with 33d and 27n temps. remember to dial your humidity control back 17-25% at night time or you will have things too wet at night. aka the absence of sunlight means that less moisture is aspirated. bical will tolerate more wet media but it is a risk. just because it is a lowland plant doesn't mean it is a swamp plant. do not pot it like a sarracenia or dionae. it likes a more aerated mix. I can't remember the exact breakdown but I used to use perlite, orchid bark mix(which had like charcoal and pumice stones etc etc in it) and peat but I do remember it was very little peat. If I recall I used either 65% perlite, 20% orchid mix and 15% peat or 65% perlite, 25% orchid mix and 10% peat. watering - top water. tray watering is a no-no! It doesn't need to be saturated. If i remember on average I watered it like once every 3 days; less in winter more in summer. All common sense really......if I am outside and consuming more water then chances are the plant will be more thirsty as well and vice versa. light - since it is a lowland plant it isn't very picky but obviously if you are turning the plant red then that is the same as sunburning yourself. I would start off with about 10,000 lumens and adjust from there but there is no replacement for sunlight. If I recall I think mine did best with 6-8h of full sun and 6-8h of partial sun. feeding - I fed it once every 2 weeks pro tip - pot it BIG. When the plant is happy it will first lay down a ridiculous root system which if potted too small you will find yourself regularly repotting as well as regularly styme the plant. If the plant is allowed to build it's roots without being disturbed then it will be only a matter of weeks before it will begin demonstrate it's gratitude by equally ridiculous foliage growth as it prepares to ascend like a madman. pro tip - leave it alone/don't mess with it and stay consistent as possible. hope this helps!