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  1. Other Nepenthes I've had success with on a windowsill are N. truncata (very easy grower but can be hard to get hold of, and isn't always that cheap) and N. maxima. I grow N. veitchii on a windowsill too but it doesn't pitcher too much, I think the humidity is too low.
  2. Could make an imgur/flickr account or similar then get the image urls from what you upload there; there isn't a limit when they're externally hosted. Otherwise put them on MS paint and make them tiny.
  3. I've only sent plants abroad once before. At the post office I was asked if the parcel included seeds (it didn't, just plants) as, according to the person serving me, there was some sort of restriction on sending seeds to the (EU) country they were going to. I checked online before and even more thoroughly afterwards and couldn't find any sort of restriction, so presumably this was misread from whatever list the post office had. I was just wondering if anyone had some definitive answers on this/a list I can look up and present if I am questioned in future. As far as I am aware, plants an
  4. You've got to get the image URL, which involves clicking on your image, then right clicking to 'open image in new tab', or just click 'copy image address' (not link) then you have the correct URL to post here. It is this: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VLggwAgkMcwfVrI4r4He4aopjdvP27Vqx26oVOedtA-OxQejlfN7vGqJ-1YZ6gnXl2cGwxIEPE1J6SQWPkMLeFe_DUhwlXOMmGv59DvTz74pUJSmDUnmLiyXXLpnyeuItlMxd68Vlc1pkwToRMXEoAJfPww6lBKkpfTjmRigTLFwleusNJ0McYjCvEG5d09ppzna558fJ2p-r_EXBjzA_gIHrp_CMYVIdfJr7MjzGnQwbEBjpc09VfPMh0B9j51xzp5XfB5U3zCT9dAzlN-LHclv3Vo3xb1pxyl3vrGBLlbsyZMrWxTmRiEQ6a_ToedWXlEl3PIffO6zRuZMePs
  5. My form isn't particularly slow. Its first basal offshoot grew very quickly. It slows down a bit with smaller pitchers, if any, in the winter with less light; I just keep it on a windowsill. For a mature vine the space between the leaves isn't huge, maybe about 5cm at the most, not much considering how thick the vines get. I recommend getting one with good colouration as people have pointed out.
  6. I have some rooted cuttings of N. maxima and N. sanguinea, £5 each plus postage (£4.50, can put two in parcel if you want) if you're interested (not back home until the end of next week though, I can send a picture of them then).
  7. Here is a picture of a terrarium-grown N. maxima cutting, taken from my main plant which is windowsill-grown and was vining at the time:
  8. AKR


    Welcome, looks a nice terrarium! Is the thing with the tube for cooling or humidity?
  9. I have a feeling there wouldn't be much difference, as long as the cutting is still green, but if there were to be a difference then taking the cuttings before the cold spell would be better. Being cut probably causes the cutting more stress than having experienced lower temperatures for a while beforehand though.
  10. If the temperature is heated then the outside temperatures shouldn't matter, unless I'm not entirely following here.
  11. I agree, and the discussion on the Polish forum I found that picture on seemed to be (up to the powers of Google translate) about whether Black Jack, shown on the right, is N. sanguinea or a mislabeled hybrid. From my own experience the upper pitchers of that dark form N. sanguinea are very much like those of other forms I have seen pictures of, losing their dark colouration and reverting to green/red. It would be interesting to know what the upper pitchers are like for Hannah's plant or Black Jack, maybe they revert to the more typical form too.
  12. Found a side-by-side picture of the dark form Matt sells (left) and Black Jack (right): Very characteristic elongated mouth on the left, and more pronounced widening at the middle. If I saw the pitcher on the right and had to guess, I'd say it looks something like the dark form of N. sanguinea crossed with a ventrata/Rebecca Soper, I'd be surprised if it turned out Black Jack was not a hybrid.
  13. Triffid nurseries has quite a specialised selection of pygmy Drosera: http://www.triffidnurseries.co.uk/browse_products_in_cat.php?pt_id=2&cid=7
  14. Possibly due to the seasonality of our light levels? It's often the case that leaves produced under a certain set of conditions don't like change, for example leaves produced under low light conditions will burn under high light, whereas leaves produced under intense light are more resistant to it.
  15. Yes - that's why the temperatures given can only really be a rough guide. A lot of factors start coming into play when you're dealing with direct sunlight, such as how sheltered from the wind the place is, how light-absorbent the surroundings are etc.